You’re the goat! Glad now a days with these power wheel adapters that you can do this for as low as $25 (not including the battery and accessories being hooked up to it).
This is probably the most suitable method I am looking for to have a lighting solution for my Yz250f among other solutions like replacement of stator, lead acid battery, 18650 rechargeable battery pack, etc. Great detailed video. Thanks.
Li ion would be superior to this one (if done properly) but would cost so much more. as it is, this is good solution. how long does it run before depleted?
@@RideEnduro tnx, will look into the design. thinking about doubling the Ah capacity and illumination power. broken knee due to to low illumination 20 years ago, wont make same mistake. tnx for detailed step by step video. cheers.
I welded a mount behind by number plate for the battery and then just made a plus to plug into the battery. And then I run my power off the plug. I might make a video about it
That's what I was planning to do because is way easy to battery access and not need to run this cables all over the bike and is easy to modify front plate with just quick lock instead of bolts
brilliant video dude. keep up the good work and keep hitting the trails im going straight in to my shed to cut up my drill to fit it to my yz250 to hit the welsh muddy trails in wales uk awsome dude
So damn true! Local KTM shop told me $1000 to install lights on my KTM 250xc! Are you kidding me?!!! Great vid...may need to demolish a Dewalt 18v drill LOL!!
It's even easier now! You can buy pre made battery plates for any brand of tool battery on eBay, Amazon, etc. No more scavenging the baseplate from broken drills!
wow you have to be the biggest brain person out their to ever think of this idea and know where to mount it and everything thanks I didn’t want to go through the process of the stator so you have a new subscriber keep up with these types of videos and teach people new stuff
@@RideEnduro do your taillight work with your brakes also? If not, how could I wire it so that it'll light up like a normal taillight when the brakes are applied ?
My setup is just running lights. The DRC phantom tail light does have another wire that can be tied into a brake switch. You would have to find a brake activated switch and run power to it, and then from the switch back to the tail light.
May I make a video using this Idea. I will give you credit for the Idea too. Its just I had this Idea and you gave me the inspiration to actually do it. I did it and Its working really good! I also set up a brake light too. 😛😛
Ayy splendid video now i was planning on doing the full light kit like tail light n signals ect would it still work the same off 1 battery or should i try an add 2 batteries to power everything
lock out I would imagine if everything was LED you would be fine with a single battery. A 5ah battery would be best, longer run time. You would have to test it out to see, could always add more later.
I honestly thought you'd just run the wires right to the ground and hit side of the top of the battery, but that would be more trouble each time you need to charge, cutting off the entire bottom of the drill so it can connect the way it was meant to be was genius, rich i has an extra drill letting around. Im trying to figure out how to wire a 6" light bar right into the stator on my '12 rmz 250. Not finding any good detailed videos on RU-vid 😢😢😢
carlos gonzalez I have left the light on in my garage for 5 hours and it was still illuminated. At that point I just turned it off. This was with a 3.0ah battery. A 5.0ah battery would do an entire night I would think. I recharge before every ride.
Checkout the voltage limits of the light you are using. The 6" light bars we use can operate between 10v-30v. If it's a 12v light then yes I would step it down to 12.
You can run 2 lights, just wire them up in a parallel circuit. Use a tool battery with the most amount of Mah. Like 5amp hour battery. The Mah is how long the battery will last.
My battery is 3.0Ah (amp hours) and lasts 4+ hours. If you have a 4 or 5Ah battery it will last longer. 18v is just the voltage. AH is how long it will last 👍
No I haven’t, I don’t ride long enough in the dark to kill a battery, and I always recharge before going out again so it has been a non issue thus far.
The kind you already own! It doesn’t matter what type or brand. There are battery adapter plates you can buy on eBay now that will make it even easier since you won’t have to cut up a drill to get one!
It is these ones. So damn cheap too! Been on the bike for a few years now without issue. Just make sure to get the ‘spot’ light pattern version as there is also a flood version. They can be found on amazon.com and EBay. Search 6” LED light bar. www.amazon.ca/Nilight-Driving-Lights-driving-Warranty/dp/B07217HPV5/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=6”+led+light+bar+spot&qid=1592789428&sr=8-3
Yeah the wire I used is just 16 gauge 2 wire from the local hardware store. You can order some off Amazon even, the colour of the sheathing doesn’t matter. More so just wire size.
It's one of these lights. There are many manufacturers making the exact same thing and can be found on Amazon and ebay.. 6" LED light bar, Spot beam pattern. www.amazon.com/Partsam-Bright-Single-Driving-Waterproof/dp/B07ZJHL2ZJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=ZFGGFJ00A5T2&keywords=6+led+light+bar&qid=1672868345&sprefix=6%22+led+light%2Caps%2C797&sr=8-4
What’s the voltage and wattage on that light bar, looking to buy a full headlight housing for my soon to be street legal yz450 and power it and a brake/running light
The light bars can handle between 10-30 volts DC, 18watts (3 watts per led) www.amazon.ca/Nilight-Driving-Lights-driving-Warranty/dp/B07217HPV5/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=nilight+6+inch+single+row+led+light+bar&qid=1596915415&sprefix=nilight+6”&sr=8-5
If they are 12volt lights then I wouldn't recommend using an 18volt battery. The actual wiring could be done the same way if you wanted them constantly on once you attached the battery. Otherwise you can add a switch.
I followed this idea, but I got scared of the thought of screws coming through my butt. I basically did everything the same but instead of putting the dock on the bottom of the seat, I drilled holes in the inside of my rear fender and mounted it on the inside of my fender. No having to make a extra point to connect, and no screws in my butt.
I’m doing this to my 06 Yz250f and I’ve never done anything electrical like this, so I’ve got a few questions I’ve ordered a 12v drill along with a 12v light bar, I only wanna power the light bar Is there a specific type of wiring I need or will literally any wire work? I guess that was my only question lol.
Good idea! How long will a battery last? I'm betting that since most light bars are 12 volt that that 18 makes brighter light. I am wanting to do it with the Milwaukee 12 volt cause I don't have alot of room on the little crf 100. I noticed on ebay they sell an adapter for about 15 bucks that is already wired and read for mounting. The little compact 12 volt batteries are only up to 2.0 amp hour but small enough to carry an extra. Also as I'm low on room, I suppose that it could be mounted inside the air box since I have opened it up with more then enough holes to breath. Also was curious about the specs on your light bar like power usage and lumens and so on.
I use Makita 18v 3.0AH batteries. They last 4-5 hrs. Yes buy the adapter from eBay! Much easier and economical than cutting up an old drill. eBay or Amazon for the light bar: www.amazon.ca/Nilight-Driving-Lights-driving-Warranty/dp/B07217HPV5/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=6”+spot+light+bar&qid=1616333597&sr=8-6 The light bars typically work for 10v-30v so your 12v will work fine.
Boom! This one is for the Makita brand batteries. If you have a different brand like Dewalt or Milwaukee just search for the brand and battery adapter. www.ebay.ca/itm/Fit-for-MAKITA-18v-Battery-Power-Mount-Connector-Adapter-Dock-Holder-/403057370131?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
No, a 6” LED light bar found on Amazon or eBay. It has 6 led’s and is 18watts. They can operate between 12-24v. I think the one I have is 10-30volts actually. And the drill battery supplies 18volts. www.amazon.ca/Willpower-Driving-Off-Road-12V-24V-1800LM/dp/B01L3J531C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=FM865659OT39&keywords=6+led+light+bar&qid=1645459636&sprefix=6”+led%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-6 www.amazon.ca/Willpower-Driving-Off-Road-12V-24V-1800LM/dp/B01L3J531C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=FM865659OT39&keywords=6+led+light+bar&qid=1645459636&sprefix=6”+led%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-6
How did you achieve that? Did you use a battery like this or what? I'm looking for a way to get a really bright light on my 15 crf250r. I need a light setup that will be bright but also last a few hours without going dead.
I have a tusk light kit but couldn't run head light I have 20v battery and tried set up like you now no lights will light up did you use a regulator? I also have a 6" led bar and it didnt light up aswell please help
jton89 jton89 I’m not sure what kind of power the risk kit can handle? Is there a fuse in the kit that might have blown? I did not use a regulator as the light bar I used is rated for 10-30volts. Check your wiring to make sure you have the polarity correct.
The battery pack had red black and white wires I just taped off white wire and ran red and black like video said it does have a tube fuse but didnt here it pop I'll check next time I work on it
Depends on your battery. I have 3AH batteries and with this particular light they last between 3-4 hours. If you have a 4 or 5AH battery it will last much longer.
instead of screws , look into rivnuts . id maybe add washers on both sides of the plastic, but will make for a much better, firmer , less threat to your ass kinda fix for the job.
Not a bad idea! I'm a Carpenter so screws were my go-to. I just wanted to point out the length to the viewers so they didn't drive 2" screws through that were hidden in the seat foam ready to give them some surprise ass piercings!
@@RideEnduro no doubt . its an easy upgrade to the rivnuts because the screw holes just act as a pilot hole . i ended up going with an antigravity battery, and a small fused distribution block , i found a wire harness that will work with the chargers cables so i can remove the battery with tis charging plug and just charge it with a simple connection , and install back with the opposite connection ( i used SAE style connectors . i figured instead o ruining a drill , for the same $ just have a dedicated system . ill make it on a switch , and i added a 12V USB charger , and will be running a R1 rear brake light with front and rear banjo pressure switches at the master cylinders , and some old CATZ brand fog lights . maybe ill make a video and post when its all powered, ill let you know, doing some mechanical work first though . i live in a real rural part of FL , no street lights at all and lots of dirt roads and animals . so lighting pretty critical . hope all's well with you . and def look into the rivnuts . make sure to use stainless or aluminum hardware also .
@@RideEnduro didn't know , and already invested at this point, but till work out nicely still . but yeah i see they make the plates now. i run mostly dewalt 20V tools. and didn't know if 20 was pushing it . live and learn . looks like ill get 2x the amp hours, but at a lower voltage than an 18v . only plan to use it for an hour or so at a time anyways before charging .
@@RideEnduro random , but maybe helpful to you and or other people reading this. but my battery ended up not being shipped, so im back to the drill battery option , bought the adapter you mentioned , and i did some google-ing and found an article that a guy used a 24v-12v converter/reducer , which drops voltage . using a 18-20v battery on parts meant for 12v can lessen their lives , and dropping voltage will not only make them last longer, but it also lets the battery last longer when used. the part i found is called the , Tobsun DC Converter Regulator Voltage Reducer 24V-12V 240W . manuf part # : THJ2412C240Z . it was under $15, and is waterproof , and just 2 wires in , 2 wires out .
That could be an option. I found the 6” led light bar fits nicely where I wanted it though, and for the price and amount of light it throws they are hard to beat.
Sorry for being “uncool” I suppose I could update the title so as not to ruin anyone else’s day... but I’m sure with a little bit of ingenuity, you could mount this on anything that is in need of some lights?!
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