I bought a cheap 2jz engine in unknown condition and found out it had a bolt stuck in the cylinder. Follow me as I take this engine destined for the scrap pile and make it into something useful.
I love the L28 for its sound and nostalgia, but they can only be taken so far. You have already made a mini motor head with your son. He will never forget what you are doing and he looks like he's having fun doing it. 2JZ, I'm jealous.
I love what you were able to accomplish with the L-28. It is such a bad ass budget sleeper. I get it - pour money into the Datsun motor, maybe add a D crank - it could be much quicker with some improvements or get the overbuilt 2J and start over. Honestly - I was watching this channel purely because it was a budget L-28 motor! Going to a 2J would bore the crap out of me - every body does it and it's no longer the badass sleeper that kept me coming back to the channel to see it spank hellcats with 4 bolt wheels! Please keep the 2J as a spare for the Lexus and get the D crank for the L-28. stroke it and keep going with it. There would be zero reason for me to watch this channel for another 2J swap - zero. It's been done to death. Datsun baby!
I totally understand. My interest is in expanding my knowledge and experimenting in the unknown (unknown to me, that is) and above all else, doing it on a beer budget. Rest assured, the car will be L powered for at least the next year. The Z is currently undergoing an axle upgrade then it will be back to hurting feelings. Albeit with a 5 lug wheel on the rear. Lol
@@masterofmachines Your channel is awesome - We are working on our own Z's getting them some extra ponies and your channel is what inspired us to stay with the L-28 instead of a 2j or 1UZ swap. Keep up the great content!
You definitely got a deal, even with machining and some time working on the combustion chamber you're still way up. Whether you do gte internals or go aftermarket you're going to be in it for about 2g's. Don't run the is300 pistons, I had eagle rods and 22thou ring gap on the stock pistons and still damaged all 6 ring lands. 15-17psi max and no obvious knock detected.. No cylinder wall damage luckily.. I ended up with some built to order diamond pistons for under 1000 from real street..
That’s discouraging, but pistons aren’t in the budget. I don’t believe these cast pistons differ very much from the gte variant (which obviously have their own limitations). Multiple land breakage sounds more like a ring side clearance issue imo. In any case you know my intentions are always to build it cheap and see what it can handle, so get your “I told you so” speech ready. 😂
@@masterofmachines I'm not really sure what really caused it unless that knock module isn't as sensitive at certain harmonics as I'd like it to be?! Lol. Each piston and ring set came out of the same bore it went back into, super clean, freely rotated rings, dont know what really happened. Only one of them was bad enough that when I took it out a chunk was able to be pulled out from between the rings...They did last a few months of daily driving flawlessly tho, maybe I had some random fuel pressure drop at that point at 6000 rpm or something to effect all 6 of them. I stopped doing data logs after a week or 2 of being certain everything was on point. I was using shadow dash with a knock gauge front and center where the GPS screen goes and it usually worked great in real time whenever I was pushing it too hard. It rarely would get triggered... Since then I certainly went overkill will with trying to prevent a repeat situation...
cmon man get your kid and yourself a respirator when painting, even if its just a can its awful for your lungs. a $80 respirator is well worth it if it means your kid never has any lung issues.
@@itsreallytheo if you're not using it everyday and you want to rely on it when you do end up picking it up and need to use it go with a craftsman, gearwrench, Milwaukee, ASTRO, tekton. All are good for general use. For the most part you have a little bit of wiggle room when it comes to torquing fasteners. You want one that's repeatable though, within a few percentage points of all the other fasteners being torqued. All the above will get the job done, youll need a 1/2" drive for headstuds/headbolts also if they need to be yielded/torque angled I recommend a digital one. Or a click type torque wrench with a separate breaker bar and a paint pen for torque angle. Super simple subject with not so simple answer
