Awsome video.were you say the first way to unscrew the nut thats were is leaking from thats were i noddess it coming from on your video shows that theres a seal there...?ima try to change that hope it helps...two thumbs up 👍for you
Great video. VERY helpful and well made. I have a very similar jack that has had the safety valve removed and put back in, losing the setting. How can I regain the proper setting?
I was wondering if you ever found out not only how to find the factory setting on your safety valve, but would remember the order in which the spring, stem, and ball bearing go back into that safety hole?
Many thanks for taking the time to do this video. I took most of my apart exactly like you did but am having trouble finding the repair kit that would include the medium and large teflon seals and various o-ring etc. Do you happen to have a reference to the part for a kit that would repair the key components? Thanks again great video
Kia ora from NZ. Thanks for the most concise, clearest presentation I have seen. (Without the verbal diarrhoea). I had to chase around a bit for the main plunger seal but got one for NZ$11 from a seal importer. Am now looking forward to getting another 30 years out of my jack now I know where all those ball bearings live thanks to your video
Help! I unscrewed the factory set safety screw to drain the old fluid. Out of the hole came a spring with a stem inserted and a ball bearing. I do not know the order to replace these parts back into the hole. These are the same parts you show in your video.
I've been looking countless of videos on floor jack as mine keep going down and I wasn't able to find out why for weeks... until you shown this small hole in the cylinder. I've put the cylinder backward last time I reassembled mine and all the pressure was bleeding through this hole!
Wow thank you Awesome demonstrational video, no talking straight to it and easy to follow steps this is how all demonstration, how to videos on the internet should be, no nonsense video keep up the great work.
I find it interesting how there are a million of these things but also several variations,outside they are all identical but inside thats another story,mine doesn't have the teflon rings to keep the fluid from leaking,its just metal to metal, not sure how that works , must be great tolerances,lol, mine also has a very small amount of check balls,my plunger setup is also similar but different, its probably a design used by many companies but they all have their own twist on it, thanks for the video, very helpful. What mine was doing was it would lift but the jack handle would constantly go up with every pump and finally it wouldn't lift anymore,if i moved that fill plug a bit you could hear a ton of air coming out,i tried to bleed it but that didn't work, i decided to just take it apart completely and just rebuild it from the ground up,none of the seals looked terrible but I'm sure they were worn. I took that "do not adjust" thing out, I'm sure there are instructions on the net on how to set it.i thinks its something to the effect of "go in all the way and back it out so many turns etc,ill figure it out.
After watching your vid I thought you may be able to provide some guidance MVP F301 jack It was working but leaking oil like crazy through the pump shaft. When I removed the shaft I Think I lost the o ring on the bottom end of the shaft. I have a manual but it doesn't provide the size of it. Give me some advise on how to determine the size? There is also an O-ring on the inside of the shaft that I can't seem to get out. Any advise. Thanks
At 7:40, how about heating it with a propane torch, the cast iron body where it threads in. Heat loosens things up. I do like how your using the ram to aid in keeping the cylinder from deforming with the pipe wrench.
@3:49 I have a slight leak on the Big Red Jack (2 Ton fm/Pep Boys). It looks very similar to the one shown in this film. The leak comes fm/the Release Valve (you can see it @3:49 you remove it). The oil comes off very little, but still, when I open the Release Valve to lower down the jack. When I close that Valve the leak stops. I don't know if it is supposed to be like that, or it is some gasket or O-ring which should be replaced. Most likely, but to replace it should you extract all the oil? I assume if you open that Release Screw the oil will come out completely. I would appreciate any opinions on this matter. Also for me it was very hard to push the Refile Plug back and I would say impossible (I even removed some oil, I thought I added too much) until I figured out to push just that part of the plug on the bottom w/flat screwdriver, and kind of you go around and push it. Before that there was no way to push it back, if you push on it just from the top. Thank you for the great film.
@3:49 Freeze (pause) the video. You'll see that the Release Valve does have an O-ring on it. That's likely your source of the oil leak. If you are in the U.S., go to your local Harbor Freight & grab a Metric (see Note 1) Nitrile (see Note 2) O-Ring Assortment, 225 Piece, for about $5 + tax. Harbor Freight item # 67609. That kit has 18 different sizes of o-rings in it, & I am sure there will be one to fit your Release Valve & stop the leak. Just match up the size of the old o-ring with a new one. You could remove the old o-ring & try to buy just one at a hardware store, but that would likely cost you just as much. Note 1 - Metric because many of these jacks are made in China, and they use metric parts in them. Note 2 - Nitrile rubber is very resistant to oils so it's a great choice here. Also a great kit to have around if you work on Japanese or European cars. And no, I do not work for Harbor Freight. 😆
@@The13thSword I'm desperate for a solution here... That safety valve, I mistook for a fill hole and emptied it out along with a spring, stem, and a single ball bearing. I have no idea what order to put them back in and can't figure it out from watching the video.
Does anyone know where to get individual replacement seals and o-rings in case only one or two go bad? I have this exact same jack and the wide o-ring removed at the 6:00 min mark is leaking on mine. Everything else appears to be ok. Any idea what the part # is for it?
@@mrfuel1866If it's in a high pressure seal then you need a new seal, but the gland that holds the non-pressurized oil is low pressure so you can just RTV it. You have to drain all the oil and take the whole thing apart to find out. Good luck getting that nut off. I had to but a large socket to do it.
