For it to produce lower end bass. The passive radiator should be bigger in size than the actual driver or you can use smaller in diameter sub w/ same wattage and retain that passive radiator to produce better low end :)
This is wrong my friend, size has nothing to do with it. The passive radiator simply needs to displace twice the amount of air, it is often confused as needing to be twice the size.
Could have just gone for some smaller 3” point source drivers and made a waveguide (tapering transmission line) wich sound and act similar to Bose acoustimass because that’s what Bose uses (cheap drivers) and wave guides
Nice work! I want to build something similar for my boy from old PC-speaker setup. I would have a question about the woofer/radiator setup: Whats better? - woofer down alone; - wofer down/radiator up; - woofer up/radiator down
General passive radiators have to be calculated for in win isd or other box designing software, you can do any of the above, the point of a radiator is to achieve a ported sound and similar output (not exactly the same) but saving space while doing so, you will need the ya parameters of the speakers (probably best to buy some you can get them for)
I don't know if the enclosure is not sealed right or the microphone you used for the audio of the video is not so good but the sound quality sounds too mid-range. I will say this the whole idea of the shape and speaker placement is nice.
I bought this amp, and the second I decided to wire wires to the board and relocate the potentiometer's with wires away from the board the subwooofer channel started to emit a buzzing lower tone that never stops. Dunno if I was just unlucky or what. Definitely overpaid for that board. Box looks great though but that amp was a dud for me.
i think you need to add a tweeter because those are mid range speaker and subwoofer, i know because i have those speakers in my front speaker(factory, not homemade), and tweeter with them.
wonder if you can make another one but port the sub, you have empty space in between front speakers to create a port for that sub. only negative I see well, you did glue front speakers in which I cringed over.
Объем ЗЯ явно не соответствует динамикам, про НЧ оформление и писать не стоит, толщина стенок маленькая будет резанировать, а теперь влпрос, а если китайская платка накроется или проводок где тупо отойдёт, автор топором это изделие вскывать будет???
Сам думаю о подобной колонке ( есть небольшая акустика 2.1для переделки ) думаю лучше было бы урезать место для сч-вч динамиков и увеличить объем нч динамика насчёт того что плату намертво закрыл это конечно фигня
@@ihordenysiuk2179 Делал я подобную хрень из дсп. Лабиринт даже для саба сделал. Выходит слишком габаритно и нафик никому не нужно такое брать на выезд. Лучше сделать маленькую колонку с одним динамиком, но с возможньстью подключать к ней через клемы большие нормальные колонки. Так ты и на природу поедешь с музыкой, а дома уже по человечески качество послушаешь
@@neitron07 так я не ЧВ хочу сделать а "портативную" колонку. С пассивным излучателем для НЧ звена как у автора но автор много места выделил под вч-сч динамики ну и плату заклеил внутри что не есть гуд.
@@ihordenysiuk2179 Нет за плотничество ему конечно 5 балов. Но когда он начал клеить динамики ПВА.... В конце концов можно же шпаклевочкой пройтись и вскрыть металиком например. Инструмента у него вагон. Хотя опять же если это для мастерской то можно и не замарачиваться
Работу большую провел, но шлифануть корпус нельзя что-ли было? Динамики на пва это сверх моего понимания. По объемам камер тоже хз, на глаз? Вывод: молодец, но повторять не стоит.
With a router that would have gone much simpler. Especially the first part, you could have copied well with the router. And to start the whole on a thicker base plate would be even easier, or not?
I agree but I decide to buy router after i did front panel. If i could build this speaker second time, many things probably will looks diffrent, as always ;)
I did some calculations on The sub driver and it needs a pretty big box for good bass, but it Does play really low frequencies. I bought The driver and i think its really good. I used it with a Dayton audio tweeter and it sounds good! A bass reflex enclosure with a volume of 5,3l has an f3 of 45hz.
I have the same amp but hiss sound is comming from the amp when I play it with Bluetooth .which power supply is good for the amp ,I am using it with 19volt 3 amp power supply but it gets pretty hot after some time
anDREW i think that passive radiator and bass reflex do the same job - tuning the box to a specified frequency so the volume needs to be the same for both. But i might be wrong because i never done any passive radiator speaker yet, always used the bass reflex. Now i'm making portable speaker also with kt100v but with fr58 as full range. Thats why im interested in your project :) By the way did You measured TS for that passive radiator?
@beatliner is correct.. passive radiator is almost like a port, and box volume should be almost same for ported and pasive radiator.. now you don't have low end..😊
Actually I am also using the same amp used in this this project for a similar application and is quite reasonable for the price. TPA3116 have a good efficiency, friendly for battery powered applications and the board also provides a good amount of features (BT, Aux Input, Frecv Adj, eq presets and USB playback)...as much as you're not asking for hi-fi, it does the job very well with a good decent sound. The only annoying thing is that voice... ...and true, the LM3886 comes closer to hifi but is also intended for more demanding applications...needs symmetrical power supply with higher voltages, bigger transformers, filtering caps, etc...not suitable for small boomboxes.
nice build, but why hotglued the speakers? are screws not engough? and lol ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QYe6GUrPW_I.htmlm22s it speak chinese! :D
