DIY : 2015-2019 Subaru Outback FRONT Brake Pad Replacement 

That's a great call! I am just a guy that's used to doing things himself. No professional training. I used the brake caliper tool on the other side but the channel locks seemed easier. I've also used a C Clamp before. The channel locks just seemed easiest but I hadn't considered the teeth digging into the piston. Overall this was a super easy pad slap job. Other than the inner/outer/left/right specific it was like any other I've done before.

bruceyyyyy Ya. It was good over all. Any way you can compress the piston is fine. Just use the old pad so you don’t damage anything.

Question - I was always taught to remove the cap for the master cylinder when pushing back the pistons. It that part not necessary? Thanks.

@@tormodskoog9088 It just makes it easier to push in. If you have the strength or tool to do it it isn't necessary. I guess I could bleed the brakes now too but I was thinking of investing in speed bleeders for the calipers.

Tormod Skoog Burceyyyy is correct. It’s not necessary. But a lot of times the cap will pop off when you push the piston back in. There is a chance you could break the cap if you leave it on, it also does create some additional resistance. I take it off when I remember. Most of the time I don’t just cause I forget. It’s not a big deal either way.

Why was I told I need a scan tool to do the rear brakes on a 2017?

You’ll be fine.

I have plenty of non sense! Just not on this video.

If i installed one pad on each side with the clip up, should i correct them? i already bedded the brakes and I'm afraid i would have to rebed them and cause some overheating and warping having to do the procedure twice (which I would assume is against every shop manual in existence.)

I use vise grip and channel lock interchangeably. I knew vise grip (sometimes spelled vice grip online) is a brand but didn't realize channel locks were as well.

Brad Mangas Dang! I’m a professional mechanic and I just got schooled as well. Thanks for dropping some knowledge! I’ve always used channel locks and adjustable pliers somewhat interchangeable. And in fact, I would probably have corrected people in the past for not referring to them as one or the other. I generally refer to that style of adjustable pliers as channel locks. Because now a days they have regular pliers that are also adjustable. The manor in which those type of pliers are adjustable I would generally call channel locks. But looks like I am technically incorrect in calling them that. Good to no, gonna use that bit of knowledge to bash on my coworkers in the future! Lol. Thanks! Learn something new everyday!

Those players who used are called tongue and groove pliers what's your type of slip joint pliers. Good video.

Spam !

My laziness knows no bounds.

bruceyyyyy 😂

@@LesSummer It only works for pad slaps like this obviously.

I have used Duralast pads for all of my brake pad replacements and never had any problems. They are relatively inexpensive, and many people don't know that they have a free replacement policy that is incredible. You can bring back your old pads once they are removed, and get a new free set of Duralast pads. I used to get these at Schuck's auto supply, but auto parts stores seem to change names/ownership quite often. I just bought OEM Akebono pads for my 2016 Subaru Outback because they are the OEM for Subaru brakes, and I got them both on sale at a good price, and because Schuck's is no longer in the area. After I bought them I happened to see that AutoZone carries them, so I called and checked if the free replacements with the old pads was still available and was told that it is. I had told my son about the pads years ago when we did his brakes, and he told me that he got free replacements a couple of weeks ago, and has been doing that for years, saving $$$

You are correct! I added a notice in the comment section but thank you for pointing out.

@@bruceyyyyy Oooooops... Didn't read carefully comment section AKA didn't read it at all🤪.

You really needed to remove as much rust on any and all surfaces ,especially on and under the clips and clean all surfaces with brake clean. The slide pins needed to be removed and cleaned of old grease and inspected for rust, then apply new silicone grease to the pins, check all rubber boots for tears.

Aw geez thanks fella.

@@bruceyyyyy Fr though. thanks for the vid

I have a kobalt pry bar set. I just tend not to use it for videos. Good call though.

I agree

In the past when I used channel locks or clamp to do this I have left the old pad in place to distribute the load squarely, seems to work well enough to avoid the issue.

I guess you could potentially screw something up, but I think if you’re new to DIY automotive you’re more likely to screw something up introducing air to your hydraulic brakes.

@@nathancalia3901 Thank you. I found a cheap service tool to retract automatically the rear brakes too. Foxwell brand works!

It might be a supply issue with this virus. I just bought them last week.

@@bruceyyyyy Found and ordered the pads you installed from the Auto Accessories Garage website.

@@kcirmusic1 Thanks! I'll update the link so it can help someone else in the future.

I hate to knit pick on things. But from an informative stand point. I just want to say, ceramic and metallic brake pads are terrible for your rotors. They are super hard and they wear out your brake rotors instead of your much cheaper brake pads. I always recommend replacing brakes pads with the OEM replacement pads, of what ever brand you choose, just so long as they are OEM compliant. Unless you are going for higher performance and don’t mind sacrificing your rotors. But that would be another conversation with different parts and variables to consider.

Would you have a suggested product? I don't drive hard. I just want long life and low dust.

Re: Rotor + Pad makes sense from a shop perspective. It eliminates variables of brake issues and well, they're not paying for it. Right? From a DIY I've done plenty of pad slaps and been fine. I typically can't do it more than once. Once I did 3 sets of pads on one rotor but the rotor had to be out of minimum thickness by the end of that third set of pads. Not recommended. If the rotor is still thick enough and isn't damaged I see no reason to do it. If you DO want to replace the rotors and feel confident on changing the pads after watching this check out the Jeep Renegade Brake Change video I did (that no one watched). I changed the rotors in it and it's basically one extra step. The only special thing I noticed there was the brake caliper bracket bolts were thread locked with red. There was a mechanic in the comment section earlier. Might want to ask him for more feedback. Re: Fancy Rotors For a street/daily driven car? Looks. Instagram. I still need to get used to posting things although I can't figure out what to post. I'm a boomer like that. Slotted/drilled rotors have advantages in track cars. In a daily driven car those advantages are going to be immeasurable. The only advantage I can possibly think of worth mentioning for someone like us is I've heard (and haven't even seen good research or studies backing up the claim) is it's advantageous for clearing mud and debris out but even than that's a pretty minuscule compared to the shorter life of the rotor and pad.

@@bruceyyyyy Thank you sir, this is quite a helpful reply. Bit by bit I'm wrapping my head around all these systems that were just mysterious and magical to me before.

Hello, professional mechanic here. Also a subscriber to your channel. Just a comment on the “upgraded rotors”. Generally speaking, most people don’t need upgraded rotors. But if your so inclined, the advantage for the average person would be added heat dissipation, which in simple terms means, when you brake hard or for a long period of time, such as going down hill or towing, your brakes will be able to maintain a higher degree of braking force for a longer period of time, preventing brake fad and premature brake failure. And to be clear, “upgraded rotors” do not actually increase your braking power, only maintain a higher level of what you can already achieve just for a longer period of time.

@@jklpino Excellent, thank you, that is very enlightening!

That's terrific pad life!

**Open the bleeder valve

I would just grease when you change the pads.

Good luck!

Pumping is never a bad idea after a brake change.

Look when you remove the old pads and see where that lever spring is sitting.

Also good idea when you push the calipers in to release the brake bleeder valve and push the oldest nastiest fluid out of the system and not back into the system.

If it's working I wouldn't worry too much about it. Apparently the design varies a little on aftermarket parts.

@@bruceyyyyy yea, i actually installed two pads with the spring on top (one on each side). I've already bedded the brakes. IF I were to correct them, will they have to be rebedded?

The EBD system maximizes the effectiveness of the brakes by allowing the rear brakes to supply a greater proportion of the braking force. It functions by adjusting the distribution of braking force to the rear wheels in accordance with the vehicle’s loading condition and speed. The EBD system is an integral part of the ABS system and uses some of the ABS system’s components to perform its function of optimizing the distribution of braking force. If any of the ABS components used by the EBD function fails, the EBD system also stops working. When the EBD system is operating, you may hear a chattering noise or feel a slight vibration in the brake pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a malfunction

​@@wayne0822The chattering is normal operation for any ABS system. If a wheel begins to lock , the brake on that wheel is pulsed on that wheel to prevent skidding. With any type of brakes it would be a rare occurrence to have more braking force to the rear wheels. Due to weight transfer the rear wheels lock up much easier. And all the electronic braking , stability control, etc are basically for people who don't know how to drive. A knowledgeable driver can out perform them .

Do you not grease your pads?

That's impressive!