Very useful info. As a relatively new woodturner, I'm always looking for new tips, tricks, and techniques that will make me better. Thanks for sharing!!👍🏾
This tip comes from machine shop practices and should improve concentricity when turning those jaws. The goal here is to load the chuck jaws before taking a gouge to it. Use a large pipe clamp that will fit the diameter of the Nova jaws. The idea is to use the chuck key to open the chuck until it encounters back pressure from the pipe clamp. Then turn the step to size. This way the chuck's mechanism is under load when turning that step.. In lieu of a pipe clamp the turner can use a face plate to turn a plywood ring. Wakodahatchee Chris
Thanks, Daryll you have provided me with a solution to something I want to investigate in woodturning and I do not have to spend any money upfront to prove the concept.
Thanks Dread. That's much better than purchasing a new set of jaws (and then finding it didn't really holds your piece correctly!) I'm now inspired... Will try to make myself a small accessory chuck in oak. Great tips, by the way :)
I am making a cube within a cube on the lathe an will have to make a set of jaws to hold the 3x3 inch cube .this video is very helpful and I need to change slightly to accommodate the cube . Thanks very much.john
This is a great project that I need to get done. I like how you can use this for bracelets or pendants just by turning it to suit the purpose. Great idea Darryl.
There is at least one chuck, Masterchuck, that is designed to allow wooden jaws to be made and used like this. But I, too, have a Nova. My comments from my experience: At 1:40 you estimate the internal diameter of your 3" jaws. For best results, I do this with the jaws about 1mm (40 thou) apart, not touching one another. This is because Teknatool make them in a similar manner to how you are making your wooden jaws, so they are truly circular only at this setting. At 6:00 you seem to be turning the wooden jaws without them gripping anything (there seem to be gaps between your wooden jaws). On my Nova the chuck jaws are not rigid unless gripping something, so it would be dangerous and/or inaccurate to do this. In fact, Teknatool tell you not to spin the chuck without it gripping something (wood, usually). I suggest you either tighten the jaws or put something for the jaws to grip, such as shims between them. Four pieces of card would work. Tighten the jaws onto them before turning. I have made wooden jaws that screw directly to the jawslides, using the same size screws (M6) as the metal jaws. I am not sure if there are pros and cons to this approach.
First, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. While I do appreciate the feedback, I want to point out that the chuck is gripping the wooden jaws. The wooden jaws are screwed to the metal jaws and then the chuck is tightened. I did not bother to machine the faces between the wooden jaws perfectly flat as these are only intended for temporary use but they are in fact securely installed. I am not going to say that my every practice at the lathe is completely safe, but I do not share techniques that I feel are unsafe. In addition we all have to draw the line at what we are comfortable with in our own shops and decide what we will or will not incorporate into our workflow. There are several "safe" techniques out there that I won't try. so the short of it is this, if you don't feel comfortable doing this then don't, if you feel like you can make improvements do so, but don't feel like this is a commandment or a mandate of how to do something like this. Again, thanks for commenting.
@@DreadKnotWoodshop Thanks for replying. I said it seemed to me that there were gaps between the jaws when you turned the wooden ones, but evidently I was wrong. Sorry.
Good morning , I'm using my "social distancing " time to catch up on old projects , including making some turning accessories. I'm finding your channel to have simple, practical and down to earth ideas. Have you thought about drilling holes and putting some rubber grommets in the jaws ? For a even "softer" grip ? Or even just in the holes of the mounting screws?
I find that the wood on wood joint is the best. Finding a rubber material that is soft/firm enough to prevent issues can be a real challenge. I have tried using things like this before and while not crushing fibers, have left hard to remove marks on workpieces.
Hi, thanks for the video, I am wanting to make some pen jaws and think this will work, do you have any advice on not making a complete tit of myself. Cheers.
I know that some have suggested making the jaws fit the jaw slides directly, but I think the little reinforcement you get from using the 100mm jaws makes a huge difference. Other than that go for it. I hope you will post your results somewhere in social media land.
