Super cool, but won't those bolts and screws be rusty within a couple of weeks? When you wire brushed them you took off whatever zinc coating (or other coating) they had. Cool stuff though 👍
This is actually a super interesting lost process. When you needed an alternator in the Old days, mechanics used to rebuild them now they just replace them. Super cool to see this guy do it
Old days? I knew a guy who paid his way through NADC, Nashville Auto Diesel College, rebuilding starters and alternators. Which he learned how to do while attending NADC. This was maybe 16 years ago. People can still repair starters and alternators. Problem is not many people want to. Whether it's having it rebuit or rebuilding it. Easy way is the best way is the slogan of today.
@@JoshHookerJoshhook123 People still do it. It's just usually small speciality shops and independents working out of their garage. It's sad tbh. Great for big companies. They're making a killing. Crap for the environment though. I'm not a tree hugger or anything. But it's not sustainable.
20 years ago when I was in Highschool our auto teacher taught us how to rebuild alternators, break calipers and starters. Pretty good chance one was gunna go bad on our cars and we had no money. Im glad he did, I do it to this day.
You were taught about maintaining cars in highschool? Thats very cool. Where i'm from (Ireland) they teach us religion, irish and latin. Absolute bollox nonsense.
I was excited to start woodwork in year 9, start of the class my friend and I were pretending to duel with dowel rod... teacher banned us from ever doing the class and we had to take cooking instead, "you will NEVER learn woodworking because you're silly and irresponsible!!" Fast forward 15 years and we realised I was the carpenter doing his loft conversion
Good video to be fair it's nice to see something rejuvenated instead of buying new so props to you for that the only slight thing is should of masking tape the mounting bracket as cars use the bracket as the ground, other than that it looks great though, I don't understand the folk that saying bad things , keep up these restoration type videos they are good to watch, and make a different change of pace
Great video but poor job on actually showing how to repair. Things aren't explained and while Im all for showing instead of telling, I wouldnt know what Im checking for in the electronics or why you needed to replace those parts or what I would do if I need to replace or fix any of the other parts.
I loved the video. Thought y'all did an exceptional job showing everything to do. For the electrical part, that other commentor could just look up a wiring diagram.
@@masterchiefer25well sure a diagram would help but that still doesn't fix the issue of diagnosing the problems in the first place nor would a wiring diagram include anything about bad bearings or a damaged housing. These may seem obvious but they really aren't as obvious to everyone as they seem.
Cool video but I would offer one recommendation. When cleaning the stator core iron laminations always run your cleaning tool parallel to the laminations. If you run the tool across the laminations and accidentally smear some metal across the laminations you will short the laminations together potentially creating a hot spot in the core.
на самом деле эти пластины и так закорочены но дело в том что они хоть и закорочены но они не создают толщу в которой могли бы наводиться большие токи и заусенцы неиграют большую роль
This saved me on a 1990s rare alternator that could not be bought or replaced on an old JDM vehicle, I even found out I could use a different regulator in the body thanks to you and how to dissasemble it!! Thank you!
Good work. I did something very similar with mine. Just a note, the mounting point where it's connected to the engine bracket is actually a negative terminal, so you may want to sand off the paint from there. Otherwise, it will give negative through the bolts, which is not always good.
If you like having your cars in top condition and enjoy working mechanically you quickly find out that having tools and hobby is better than paying for gamble called mechanicall roulette. + no mechanic gives single sheet for tiny details... You can do it far more a better than some worker under time pressure. And no one gonna make things like replacing hardware with stainless where it makes sense
If you work on your own car your gonna have most of those tools. Soldering iron and multi meter you can get fairly cheap, you can get away with no press if you use a hammer carefully, a lot of parts shops offer rental for bearing pullers or ever let you borrow it for free for a day.
Виглядає гарно, але ви зробили цей генератор не робочим. Ви завфарбували геть всі точки масси). Регулятор не запустить генератор бо він не отримає мінус. При нагріванні генератора краска злетить. Відео як інструкцію , як відреставрувати генератор, не можна дивитись. Відео лише для зорового кайфу.
In our video, we have demonstrated the basic steps to repair a generator. This video is for educational purposes only and does not guarantee a specific result.
@@autodocuk If it is for educational purposes, why don't you show how to do it right? Nobody needs an education of the wrong way to do things. To add insult to injury, inexperienced people will watch your video and repeat the process you demonstrated, resulting in poor grounding issues.
@@uranusneptun5239 indeed it is made out of aluminium alloy and often the engine block too which it is attached to. The engine is grounded with a wire and that is the only ground the alternator uses. All the contacting surfaces have to be fairly clean between the engine and the alternator and between all bolts and alternator.
I mean an alternator is so cheap already that if youre gonna replace the internals for 70% of the cost of a new one, you might as well just swap the whole thing so some other small piece among your old internals doesnt force you to have to do this job again.
Bravo mate. Love these style videos; no stupid music. No long back story. No bullshit. Just straight to the point. Fantastic amsr sounds. Excellent filming. Attention to detail. Love it. I would love to speak with you about possibly having you rebuild an alternator for me.
The most lame tutorials in the Internet. 1. Old faulty alternator is compromised. You will not get 100% out of it after such "repair". 2. Painting over ground connections, points. One must be clueless to do this. 3. No testing before and after. 4. No insulation testing. 5. Special bore size bearing not mentioned (pretty common in the alternators). 6. No runout testing (rotor, slip ring). 7. What if the housing is cracked? 8. What if the slip ring is worn? 9. What about regulators? There are different types, brands. Cheap ones have many flaws.
Looks really smart... there is a positive terminal, how does the alternator ground to the battery? Generally through the engine block via the alternator mount then the earth strap. Here it has to go through a layer of nice orange paint. ie) mask the mounting faces before painting if you want the alternator to work.
Get outa here with your knowledge and facts.... you are interrupting the circlejerk! Who needs grounds on their charging system anyway? The Orange paint now makes it a racing alternator good for an extra 200hp.
@@brokenworld1 Apology accepted. But first you must post at least 10 glowing positive comments without mentioning the obvious problems. The circle-jerk must continue!
@@davidparker9676 man it's just bots in the comments of the video, nobody with absolutely any knowledge of cars would blindly be posting that he did an 'amazing job'
@@bluewanderer9903 sooo true man, I'm currently building my range and am looking forward to when i can say yup got all of em, instead of now where I'm like damnit, refer to comment above. :P Appreciate your response lad.
@@cephasgunn1993 it will all add up you'll see, you dont need to go mad spending neither, buy as you need or as job requires. And even cheaper tools will last you forever since you wont be taxing them every day all day long. I have some tools that are over 15yrs old and they are still in great/like new condition and it feels good to use them again and again. If you have interest in cars or general diy and you know you will be doing it then its good to have tools. I am at stage now where I can maintain all our vehicles incl my job van and it feels great to be honest. Of course if you can afford it go for a better equipment, but my point is you wont need top of the range latest pro tools. When it comes to sockets I would highly recommend quality impact set rather than cv if you use impact gun, which again can be gotten cheap enough.
@@bluewanderer9903 I'm based in the uk, do you have any brand suggestions for the quality end of budget there man, I know what you mean as far as using tools for multiple jobs though, I rebuilt and replaced my rear subframe on my 02 passat and originally bought the tools i needed to do the brake rotors and pads, luckily the 18mm was also what i needed for the subframe bushings felt great i didnt need to get more for that job. most of my kit is teng tools but they can be pricey so i am tryna get other proven companies by suggestion of folks who love to do their own work like myself.
The labour alone would be far more then the cost of a new alternator. But the knowledge of how to service one could be very beneficial in the long run.
This is so cool for you to make and share. The work shows that it's possible to repair, but also shows why it's a rational thing to purchase new. Not many part shops would show you in detail how to save cash, instead of just explaining why it's difficult, you show how and why. Thanks!
This particular brand of altenator (Mitsubishi) is a very common system used by many manufacturers like Suzuki, Honda, Mitsubishi, Mazda, etc. with different regulators, communication protocols and mounting ears , and it can have four main weakness: regulator, stator, rotor, and contact points. Regulators: all D-P pin marked regulators (com. protocol introduced by Mazda in the very early times) with the three pin layout connector are sensitive, and commonly die if the brushes making arcs, because of the wear and grooves of the sliprings. It's the same with the honda three pin connector C communication protocol regulators. The toyota type two by two pin connector regulators with P-D or C data communication and all other regulators with lamp outlet are very reliable and mostly survive the harsh conditions like induction and high voltage peaks from the slipring sparks. Stator: They use a special thin surface impregnation (black epoxy) on the stator dynamo plates, instead of insulating sheets. 1 of three of this altenators need a stator rewinding, because, as the plates corrode, they expand and getting closer to the winding loops at the edges and making a ground short circuit. Faulty, expanded, corroded stators are valuable, because there are no other good alternative for them to replace. Chineese, aftermarket stators has very bad quality, low quality copper and non ferromagnetic steel plates which gets them overheated and burnt all the time. The factory stators can be burnt out, cooled down on a supporting cylinder, corrected on the lathe and rewinded by specialist using insulating sheets inserted into the grooves. Rotor: the slipring-brush pairment is overall optimal on this altenator system, so sliprings often need just to be turned and polished on the lathe to remove the grooves. But, as the sliprings are bigger diameter then usual, they have a higher tangetial velocity so even small grooves on the sliprings can lead into brush sparking and popping, and that small thing makes the altenator bad. Always check brush twisted connecting wire for fatigue. In 1 out of 10 altenators the rotor coil outlet wires around the slipring soldering or inside the insulator tube corrode (green corrosion product is visible) and the rotor coil gets a wire break, which is often invisible, because it can happen inside the coil too. First case can be easely repaired if there is enough wire lenght left to make an extension. Always use FBS glue fillout to take off the centrifugal loads from the the soldered connection. Contact points: Inside the altenator the negative power diode bridge and the ground point of the regulator are making the ground contact directly through the internal aluminia surface of the back case. This promotes the contact corrosion of the backcase and it leads into regulator malfuncion and high internal voltage drop (low voltage charge output on the vehicles grid), so in mani cases the altenator needs to be cleaned at this contact surfaces to resurrect. Older Mazdas have the windscreen washer fluid filling hole near the altenator connector, so small leaks slowly corrode the altenator connector wires. My opinion on the video: rust removal and painting the stator is necessary to prevent the corrosion and expansion, but painting the inside oft the back cover is a mistake, and the ground contact surfaces will never make contact again.
Suggestion, it would've been better if you name what chemical you use, it doesn't have to be the name of the product, e.g. degreaser or soapy water, etc.
Most of the time if a alternator dies its the wires in it losing the lacquer coating and shorting out. So this alternator your working on didn't needs much more then bearings or you didn't need to repair it at all. Painting it is not a repair. just a parts replacer with a powder coat gun. Or you would have rewound it as well. If that was showing dead not charging there is no fucking way you fixed it with out a rewinding of the alternator. Fake BS.
This was cool to watch. Seems a bit beyond my DIY ability. I'll definitely check this channel out more, though. Might be other useful vids for my VW. Thank you!
You can do it! I partially rebuilt my alternator on my 99 RAV4, I just mean replacing the brushes and regulator. Luckily my bearings were in fine shape but had I needed to replace them I could've. They sell kits online with everything you need .
Great video, shame they are a useless company at selling parts. Sent me a left drive part instead of right hand drive. Cost me nearly £300, couldnt send back because the mechanic had the part covered in grease. Not his fault...these twats. They are well known for it
This is not how to repair an alternator. You schouldt check the rectiver with stator soldered to it. And the same way the stator. You didn't check if there is no schortage of coils in the stator to the carcas. No visual inspection of separators in the stator. Why you didn't replace the slip ring in the rotor? For me is how to paint an alternator orange than to repair alternator. Very low value...
Our videos are advisory in nature. You can find out all the points of interest directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of a car maintenance service.
Great video. superb quality. Kinda of relaxing. But uh yeah, after see all of this,… I’ll just buy a remanufactured one with a lifetime warranty.😂 That was slot of work I’m not willing to do myself.
There is a list of everything we used in the video in the comment to the video. You can see the cleaner at this link. www.autodoc.co.uk/liqui-moly/9576747?RU-vid&
I came here to study rebuilding an alternator for my Dodge Ram 1500 work truck. While I can afford a new one, I just knew there was a more affordable way cost wise; not sure if it’s more efficient time-wise. Nonetheless, I think I will buy the new alternator, and learn to rebuild the old one using this video and others. I’m even considering pulling the new one after the rebuild, and just use the new one as a backup. This was a satisfying watch start to finish. I think the only skill I like at this point is soldering which I can acquire with some training as well. Lastly, I’d need to acquire a few of the tools he used that I don’t have, but most everything else is covered. Thanks for the vid brother; straight to the point, and great visuals and title guides, oh AND NO TALKING 😂!!! Gained another subscriber.
What I am really starting to love about this crazy rebuild journey I am on “M54 E46” is when I want a rebuild video for a part it is there. Nice video Autodocs
Once blew an alternator in shop class back in high scholl, like a big ol' dummy. My teacher made me go to an alternator shop to learn how to rebuild it. Was the best experience i had in high school. It began my love of all things electrical.
The coils have lacquer on them to prevent them from shorting out. Is there any concern with using cleaners on the coils that might degrade the lacquer and lead to an electrical short later on?
Nice paint, bad grounds spike the electronics. Better remove paint for a good ground. Particularly on the aluminum housing that contains the volt reg/rect. Use di grease. Even more a no no no no for rectifier/ volt reg internal grounds. Clean off paint, apply di grease.
Both the craftsmanship and the video editing skills were on point, very entertaining to watch! Also very informative, I have to replace the bearings on my alternator soon, this will be a good reference
All the comments calling this a "lost art" or saying "nobody does this anymore" are obnoxious. I went online, searched "alternator shop," discovered one literally five minutes away, no shortage of business, and they did a bang-up job.
This is pretty good... If you are doing a resto mod and trying to have your engine look like a piece of art... knowing this things sure helps. On a pratical stand for todays days it just isnt feasible as is more cost effective to buy a new one and put it than repairing or refurbishing an old one unless its one of a kind and you cant find new ones or used ones. A great video nevertheless.
The thing is that most of the parts like this you find online are refurbished original parts. Usually if it requires the old part in exchange for the new part, it's definetly a refurbished one.
Yes 100%. It is worth an attempt at repair for original parts because you know it worked at one point. The new parts you have no idea if they work or if they are going to go bad in 500 miles because manufacturing tolerances have gone out of whack these past few years. I also don’t want to wait months on a new OEM part. The 1 or 2 days this takes to do, to me at least, is worth it to avoid waiting 4 months on a $300 part.
Neither alternator housing or caliper have heat dissipation as a primary function. Since they are not static parts (internal rotation moves air plus the car is moving) there should't be a problem. Also painting a literal heatsing with several coats (~0,2mm) only worsen temps by 2-5°C increase
Huh, maybe I'll try this. I already have my Alt pulled for a rebuild and could be a fun experience. Worst case scenario it goes horribly and I pay $100 for a new one.
The bearings in alternators are standardized and can be found in hardware stores. You just need to find the specific bearings for your alternator. I mean, it doesn't have to be a car parts store.
This is my fathers line of work He is retired now but occasionally he rebuilds things like this I asked why, and he answered: "to keep my mind sharp" Actually right now he is working on a generator and an alternator for a small fishing boat Behind him is my cousins motorcycle, waiting to be repaired
Good work but the time you use to fix this particular part doesn't wort! The alternator cost between 60 to 100€ and the mechanic cost for hois 45/60 x hour.
Do it yourself with 10.000 euros tools. I need you to make a DIY with tools that you usually don't have 😊 but this I a mechanic scientific laboratory what you presented to us.
A minus ten alternator dostanie przez bluetootha :))) Efekt będzie taki , że ktoś Was będzie naśladował i potem zastanawiał dlaczego to g...o nie działa
I hate autodoc, I bought from you a few times, but your ads really discouraged me. Nobody has ever been as annoying as you when it comes to advertising.
App, apparel and a box with your company's name and Logo, fancy video editing- will not remedy a mistake I once made, 25 years ago- Painting an alternator is asking for trouble. Because of constant thermal cycling, it's cast aluminum housing will cause just about any "coating" to severely check, crack and flake in less than a year, and that paint could easily get caught in the brushes/commutator area, causing power loss. "Ceramic" coatings are even more dielectric than enamel, and even more destructive to the bearings. Be very careful of cleaning a stator and rotor; it's windings have a varnish coating, and disturbance of this insulation will cause a short. Polishing the aluminum is best, take it to whatever luster you'd like- from brushed, burnished, or to a gleaming mirror. If you must color- anodizing the case halves is the safest way to go. The steel laminates of the stator are easily polished, or simply cleaned and painted, with an etching primer, then a 2k color, or simply a high-temp clear.
lol wtf is this? people who have all those grippers and pullers most likely know how to do this probably wont even bother and just get a rebuilt. the rest would most likely need to purchase all of the tools and that is if nothing is actually busted or broken. but I guess it makes for good social media monetization content btw you just reduced the new bearings' life by straying that chit near the end
This is not a repair. Possible alteration or restoration. What are you actually repairing? This alternator seems to fine. What was broken in it? What did you actually do to make it work again? =)
