DIY Aquatic R/C Tank 

just a rope and a yoga ball with a handel for bouncy but you need a kayak to go get it

Great idea you can get floating rope for throw lines that would work great from the floating part to shore. Then it won't tangle the rover

Maybe the float could have a winch on it as well as its own motor

@@listaro4128 Maybe some way to inflate a balloon to get it to float to the surface?

@@Oldsmobile69 CO2 canister and a balloon, yes indeed.

🎉😂

same but i don't blame him

I was thinking about a winch on the barge, but a co² safety balloon sounds a lot more fun

@@phirenz I guess that could work too. But he would have to add propulsion to the barge or inflate his kayak to retrieve it.

Was going to comment exactly that! Nice work Mr G

@@platima Thank you sir

Would a compass work okay under water? Also surrounded by those two motors? I thought he should use a gyrometer or something to keep an idea of orientation but it would eventually build up some error.

FPV crab???

​@@rctestflight yes sir

@@ruska9773spider crab 👍

I'm still waiting on the crab drone video!

While I agree, notice the lack of actual imprints from the tracks? Those tracks help spread the weight out enough to minimize that. I think this is a good starting point for submariner rovers.

I used to go kayaking in the local canal with the Scouts and you could prod the mud with your paddle and a load of foul-smelling bubbles would come out.

Maybe a screw tank would be better in this environment, because it never has to double back on itself like tracks or wheels do. All sides of the screw will give forward thrust. Screws will even give you thrust without touching the bottom.

@@TheAnoniemo brilliant. The sides would have to be counter rotating, I assume...

@@mike_oe Yes

I love you pcb!

no way, he is called Daniel too?😯that's why he is so amazing

So what does pcb stand for?

@@unitedunitedunited_ Printed Circuit Boards

the video is before 2 hours

Yes using a coaxial cable is the proper thing here, but as far as I am aware the signal from the FPV camera is composite video. Composite video was designed for use with standard FM/Broadcast TV coax which is 75 ohm. It's possible it will work fine on 50 ohm, but it's supposed to be 75 ohm. 75 ohm also happens to be the most available and in some cases cheaper than 50 ohm. My recommendation for him would be RG-59, for the 40 foot tether, the video signal and cable structure should be plenty strong. Like you said, make sure you ground the outer shield. Particularly at the camera and transmitter, not just any power ground as ground current could actually cause a similar interference problem.

Also secondarily, run the video signal as a parallel tether, not shared with the power cables (That's what's causing the interference, not the 5V PWM signal, the battery power creating a magnetic field.) Also...batteries in the robot itself will minimize or eliminate most of the weight of the tether, while also acting as weight to keep the robot at the bottom, and will allow you to use a smaller BEC circuit to power the surface equipment, and keep the surface float smaller. There's some stuff regarding UUVs that is significantly different from normal RC stuff, because of tether lengths. You'll have a LOT of power loss over the length of the tether. Ideally, you want to use the minimum number of wires in the tether possible. For that, I recommend just the camera+ground, and 4-wire serial connecting two controller boards (One translating the receiver's 2-3 channels to serial, the other translating back to PWM) with a power booster every 50 feet along the tether. Batteries CAN be submerged if they're in waterproof boxes. I use Otterboxes, which can double as tether floats, and run my ROVs down on 200' tethers made of Ethernet cable.

if you look closely he did that after the first test

It would be cool to attach a water sensor to the float to send back a telemetry signal if it gets pulled underneath

@ no that's different, that's a bit of foam to add buoyancy to the tether so it doesn't drag in shallow water

@@FowlerAskew or just put a wide range barometer on it

I agree with you,plus it'll be nice if he added propullsion motors motor like a sub one or two just in case he got stuck underwater i think that would be a great help.

Give the barge propulsion too - it could go out and drop the cat into the right place, and bring it home

I am not an engineer, but i think, that he should cover the upper side of belts.

@@petainfinusvaverka4686 water would still get in but then it could more efficiently generate thrust against the way you are going. Now im curious. If anybody has an answer please let me know.

The raft should have enough buoyancy to lift the rover with a winch for either a cable or directly to the communication wire. Maybe a couple of motors to raft with propellers attached to retrieve. Though this would be somewhat over engineered.

See you in hell

Whaaaayyyyyy!!!!!

It's super easy, I do it...frequently... I'm known as a submarine driver among the crawling groups I'm in, because it's not unusual for me to drive my crawlers in 2-3 feet of water. I use waterproof potted air receivers with the peripheral antenna mounted on a long-snorkel (sitting 18" from the ground) so the most it gets is 18" under, which is right about where the Spektrum DSMX frequency starts to fail. I've gotten as much as 22" of water between the antenna and the radio and been in control, but it's spotty at that depth)

That idea is actually poggers but would require a pretty large and stable barge or much smaller rover

think about it once again

@harrie205 a pin to to raise them on the front wheel and an elastic string to fold them down on the top side, should work fine?

would make reversing and skid-steer less possible

Imagine driving a full sized vehicle down there instead of a full sized submarine

❤

...or a way to drop ballast.

Brushless DC motors can be used subsea no problem at all but requires regular flushing with fresh water after each dive.