The most complete and understandable video for bias dress I have been watched. Thank you for every detailed step you made. You boost my confidence that I can not only managed to saw a satin bias dress but it will looked professionally made.
You are so welcome! Satin bias can be intimidating but knowing just a few ways to avoid going wrong can be a huge confidence boost. Good luck making your garment!
I agree! I've been reading blogs and watching videos in preparation of my first bias-cut project and I'm so happy I found this video! It is such a beautifully delivered and well organized source of critical information.
I'm glad you've found it helpful. The research part of a new project can be really overwhelming. Hopefully this has given you a starting point to work from.
This video is very comprehensive and complete. Thank you for taking the time to do this, this is not rushed and included every question i wanted answered. I literally felt my brian grow bigger with this. Thank you. 🎉
Thank you for this. I am a complete beginner and trying to learn how to sew and the drafting technique you have shown makes total sense to me. Thank you
This is such a well-made video. Thank you for the work you put into explaining things simply. I'd like to make a similar dress for myself, but I prefer a v-neck. Can you tell me how to modify the pattern to achieve that?
If you follow the instructions up 3:53 for drafting the dress. Then adjust the top lines to suit the shape you desire rather than contining with the next cowl neck steps. So you may wish to extend the under arm curve closer to your arm pit for coverage. I would make a mockup of just the top section once you have altered it to check the fit is as you desire. As this is a bias dress it will still hug the body and depending on your bust size you may not require any darts.
Amazing video Elfie, so thorough and also meditative. Quite the labor of love. I'm about to sew my first bias cut top. I'm sure to be watching this video on repeat. Thank you.
This fabric is gorgeous! This was such a good and comprehensive video, such eye for detail! I'll definetly be using the step of adding interface to the armcurves. Also: completely unrelated but I just LOVE the accent and it makes me feel so calm and safe :).
The fabric feels beautifully soft on too. The arm curves are one of the areas that can really stretch out, especially if the dress is hung between uses, so this can help prevent that. It also acts as a stabaliser during construction making it much more accurate to line up all them edges at the top. And no one has ever said that about my accent before but thank you, maybe i should add ASMR to my tags 😂
Thank you! I'm a hefty gal and I made a nice frock that looks very slinky and flattering. I took my time as you advised and it was very enjoyable and I'm encouraged to make another!
Wonderful! Clothing that is made to fit your body looks wonderful on everyone. Once you feel how comfortable it is you want to make all your clothes. Enjoy your dress and i hope your next one is just as satisfying.
Good Tutorial. I have some silk I purchased in Singapore that I want to do a dress on the bias with. Never done this before and I am a bit scared. When I eventually start it, yours is the tutorial I shall use. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! If you're nervous, buy some cheap fabric of a similar composition and make a wearable toile to figure out any changes you want for your silk.
Great tutorial! I will be working with metallic stretchy fabric, but not as flimsy as jersey. Do I need to make the dress on the bias or I can make it with the grain? I also want to add some flair at the bottom. It’s going to be a maxi dress.
The bias cut dress has a distinct wrap motion to the body that differs from a stretch material cut in the same shape on the grain. If you want this look you'll still need to cut on the bias. However if your fabric doesn't have an even two way stretch, you may not get an even drape. It really depends on just how much stretch is in your fabric and the end look you're going for. You may need to size down your pattern in both cases to allow for the stretch.
holy moly what an amazing tutorial. I have a large bust compared to my underbust measurement. Is there anything you would recommend I do differently than shown here? would I need to raise the cowl up more?
Hi, yes i think i would do the neckline a little higher to start with. But i think the main change i would make to accomodate a larger bust is that i would split your bust measurement into two. Front bust and back bust, measuring from underarm to underarm. I would then draft your pattern with a half your front bust, on the front section, and 1/2 the back bust on the back section. Use this in place of the 1/4 bust measurement shown in the video. After this when you do your mock up you can decide if you may need a full bust adjustment still. Hope this helps!
Amazing tutorial this has been such a wonderful resource for me, I'm a little confused about the pivoiting for the cowl neck "i like to spread it until the top line becomes horozintal" what line ar you reforereitng to here?
If you look at the green line at 4:40 that goes from the centre front at the bust line to the point where the strap connects. This is the line you are moving up to a horizontal position. To create the cowl you are cutting the pattern along the black bust line from the centre front to the side seam leaving a pivot point at the side seam. Pivot this section up, till you get a horizontal top line.
One other thing! After I cut and pivot the pattern, my bust separation line is now at an angle both along the top of my pattern and side (to the bust line) should I just square this off? If so, do I add the square all the way around to the armhole? this would add about 10cm of height there
You no longer require the bust separation line after you have drawn the top point the strap attaches at 4:40. So you can ignore this line forward of this step. Your armhole shape will not change, it will just move outwards as you pivot.
This is great! I have a couple of questions. When you pivot the bust separation line to form the cowl. I understand you said 2 to 4" ... In order for the diagonal of the bust separation line to be horizontal the spread is closer to 6.5" 😮 Also, once its spread the center front line, at the separation corner point, is no longer square to the CF. Should i be squaring that Bust Sep. corner to the center front? If I do... I would be adding 2.5" to get it to reach / be in line with the CF. Does this sound accurate? Or any advice is appreciated.
The amount you spread is based on your personal measurements. As a general rule the larger the spread results in a bigger cowl effect. You'll likely find you've just selected a higher neckline height than i did on mine or you have a larger bust than me. I find spreading it till the line that goes from CF bust to where your strap connects (green line) becomes horizontal is the most convienent position as it allows you to continue you your facing from the same pattern piece and eliminate extra seams. For your second question you should be keeping the green line at 4:11 in the shape it lands after pivoting into position shown at 4:48. If you need to extend the horizontal top line so it crossed the CF line then this is fine to do so. This is the extra fabric that will 'pool' in the cowl area later. I recommend sewing a toile to check you're happy with the volume of fabric in this area before trying on your real fabric.
I've had it in my stash for so many years. I believe i got it from a tailoring supplies shop based in London called Macculloch & Wallis. I can't find the exact listing i bought but this item is similar. www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/88918/vlieseline-tapes-waistbanding/vlieseline/iron-on-vlieseline-bias-tape
It would really depend on your particular fabric whether you get away with it. If your stretch fabric has two way stretch and has the same amount in both directions it could work. Otherwise the drape would be uneven. You couldn't really predict if you would get that typical wraping motion of a bias dress. Also if your fabric has enough stretch you may even be able to cut it on the straight of gain and save yourself a lot of fabric waste. For either option though you will need to reduce your pattern size to account for the extra stretch. Let me know how it turns out!
Could you please tell me how much ease you added to the waist measurement? I'm making a dress and measurement of the waist is a little smaller than the bust & hip and I'm not sure how much ease to add 😅
I added 5cm of ease at my waist. If you're undecided how much you need take your measuring tape and hold it round you at the amount you are planning to use and see how you feel moving around. It is also easier to remove fabric if you've gone too wide, than recut if you have gone too small, so give yourself room to work with for your first toile and then you can adjust your pattern to match.
You decide on whatever length you want during the drafting stage. Make it as long as you like! And the cowl neck dress was huge in the 90s when fashion favoured smaller frames and weights, I'd recommend having a search to see some examples. You should wear what makes you feel comfortable, confident and happy though!
Yes you can make the length as long as you wish. More luxurious special occasion fabrics aren't always as wide, you may need a join to achieve full length. Having the joint on the straight of grain (so it looks diagonal when on the body) works the best.
You can work with either. I personally prefer on grain as i find it easier to work with, however some people prefer the stretch properties of the bias and say it helps to turn it easier. If you have no preference i would select the option that is the most fabric efficient after cutting your main pattern pieces.
I used 2.5m for mine. Obviously the length you choose to do your dress will change this, so roughly 3m for a floor length, possibly 2m for shorter. If you draft your pattern first you can measure it exactly before going to buy your fabric to avoid waste.
