DIY series. How to install solar panels using items from local hardware store. (cheap) Two methods of installation. From Total Solar Technologies. (formerly Total Solar Innovations). www.TotalSolar.us
Had our panels up 2 years now. We followed your video to a T (other than we used plastic "wood" 2x4) Feet of snow, insane winds, not one loose panel in 2 years. Thanks for making this vid.
I'm planning to install my system with unistrut. Can You guys share your opinion if I would use the 14 Gauge unistrut piece instead the 2×4? Appreciate any thoughts, advice!
These DIY solar videos are telling me over and over that I need to do this myself. My wife will not be happy but it looks like a relatively simple and fun project that will save thousands.
I did this exact method of install in Oregon 2019 with permits. What he didn't cover was to make sure there is a minimum of 12 inch space around for walking. The 2X4 wood block should be spaced 24 inches on center.
Not sure where you are but be warned that Solar Panels do not like being overheated. A good practice is to allow space between the panels to allow air to flow between them. When mounting to the unistrut (or superstrut), use a bolt with a fender washer to hold the panels to the strut. This bolt will provide a space between the panels to allow for the air flow. Just a suggestion for area that get a lot of heat.
There is plenty of air flow under the panel....To me, that is way more cooler than putting them on the roof super close. So, putting them side by side with no gap is acceptable. You just need good air flow, with a 2x4 that is 1.5" off the roof, plus the rail say another 1.5" and the aluminum frame itself is as good as it gets. I say as long as you got 2 ~ 4" you're fine.
I noticed the top edge of the panels were exposed to the wind without the protection of the roof. That doesn’t seem like a great idea. I agree with a few other comments about using a cone washer, a flat washer and bolt to secure the panels to the uninstrut. The cone washer is inserted into the unistrut slot, the panel goes on next and then run the bolt through the flat washer (or a unistrut square washer) and on top of the panel into the cone washer in the slot. 3/8” x 3 or 3-1/2” bolts work perfectly. The bolt length has to be the thickness of the panel + the thickness of the washer used on top + the depth of the cone washer. Do not over-torque the bolts. I have used this method in south Louisiana (hurricane country) with success. The bolts are also a natural spacer between panels which allows them to dissipate heat. Using the bolts to secure the panels is much quicker as well. Space the bottom unistrut bracket where you can use a small angle bracket (this is sold wherever you find unistrut) bolted to the unistrut on the bottom edge as a stop to keep the panels from sliding.
awesome video thank you I learned a lot! I purchased my first solar panel and I'm going to put it up in a few weeks, this video you made was very helpful! I didn't think about needing water flow under the brackets until I saw this and also helps dissipate the Heat with an inch or two clearance from the roof in the bracket to dissipate heat, thank you for making this video and help me learn a lot
Very inexpensive. I like it. Suggestion: Speed up the layout of holes to drill in the panel by making a layout jig. One possible jig might look like a cross made from 1x1 wood. The long end references to a corner, and the cross overlays the rail. One jig is all you need if the distance to the top and bottom rails is the same.
One of the reasons that people think twice about solar installation is the cost of labor, which is extreme in the US, close to 30-40%, of total cost while it is 10-15% in other countries.
I've got 4 panels I plan to install on a roof but I would not be using wood as spacers, I'm not sure how much of the info in this video I will use but one thing is for sure, I would get some composite deck planks or PVC trim pieces instead of wood planks (even if pressure treated)....so they'd last forever not rot out.
I was thinking cellular pvc trim boards would work too instead of the pressure treated. But I imagine the PT would work fine since it's not *that* directly exposed to the elements.
I like your install my question would be dissimilar metal between the aluminum panel frames and the steel angle brackets. I was also concerned about your lack of a ground and how you address the dissimilar metal contact and a ground. Otherwise I like the simplicity of your install thank you
Is an aluminum block or crank case in a car held together with aluminum bolts? The answer is no... It's nice to talk about never allowing two different metals touching in theory, but in the real world, it's everywhere.
@@rustusandroid correct the contact between dissimilar metals can be aggravated by movement ie. friction and or an electrolyte. The time frame for failure under normal atmospheric conditions would would far exceed panel effected efficiency life of 40 to 50 years.
The real challenge is the quality of ground contacts using a standard copper or bronze connector. Aluminum contacts through the aluminum frame on the solar panels is a decent method for ground and should be shielded from air and other environmental exposure a quality over the counter spray paint properly applied will help shield the contact thereby delaying corrosion.
That is really more for hardwood that you cut. The whole point of the _pressure treating_ is that it impregnates the wood so that it's not just a topical application. There is no need to seal the ends of pressure treated wood and it will still last as long as advertised.
I love this video, most systems out there, are so over engendered. These panels last like 25 years, your shingle roof 20 years, so your ripping this off then, to redo this anyway. No need to make it last 100 years.
Thanks for the video. We have a barn style Z-Medal cabin and would like to mound six solar panels three on each side of the roof. Can you share with us some easy steps and material we may need? Thank you very much.
@@pure-lighttechnologiesinc.7353 lol... That's so true. If a F5 comes through wondering if your solder panels are still attached is the least of your worries.
Uh, they make spring nuts and large washers to hold down the panels for that superstrut. Simply snap the spring loaded nut into slot, and screw down the panel. No drilling required.
That's exactly what I'm saying, is if you're installing it on a shingle roof that won't last more that 15 years. Why put a 100 year bracket on there? Great job.
@@jerrellbevers6071 He said to check with local code, which no doubt he did, he's in the business, maybe your code requires a $2000 rail system, but not in Idaho which is where he is
@@thomasmorris4914 I wasn't commenting about the rack system at all. It was his roof penetrations. If he used sealant he never mentioned it or showed it being used. Throwing down a piece of metal and driving a hole through it with a block that can shrink and expand will get you leaks, guaranteed. There is no code requiring a type of material to be used to make a rack system but there are plenty of rules for holes in roof, distance from edges and sticking up past the ridge like that. Also, just because he said to check the local codes doesn't mean he did or even had to. Inspections out in the boonies aren't always required. Edit: Everything else he did was fine but if you follow the way he did for attaching it to your roof then be prepared for water damage eventually.
@@frangray7228 I researched this and the sealant (while good) is not enough as a *primary* water block. The rubber sealant will expand & contract which would help to loosen over the years with day/night constant thermal cycling -- winter freezing temperatures wouldn't help either. In addition to thermal cycling, repeated flowing rain water contact directly on the sealant can cause chemical changes that can erode its soft material away which gets hit directly at perpendicular angle to the flowing water. Of course, this process doesn't happen overnight but years after you've stopped thinking about it and complacency settles in. The sealant needs a vertical "water shield" above it -- like a welded metal strip standing vertically. The shield need only be 1/2" high shield or so but it will redirect running rain water so the sealant becomes a *secondary* water block while the shield is primary. So if he welded on a little bit of metal "inverted V" shape *above* the seal, then that can redirect water around the penetration point. It has to be a good solid waterproof weld that joins the inverted V shield to the metal sheet as one solid continuous piece. Another option is to 3D print a flashing mount that has this shielding feature built into its design.
arning: Replace your shingle roof before you install solar panels, neighbors had solar panels installed two years ago, shingle roof had to be replaced this year, it cost them $11,500.00 to have the solar panels removed and installed again....
So you actually have building codes in Florida that demand to be able to withstand category 4 & 5 hurricanes? Really? Where, I would love to see the code.
@@totalsolartechnologies9137 you can search them on the net. Maybe you sleep through the last few we had. lIke the one that wiped out Mexicana beach. The panhandle..
@@totalsolartechnologies9137 .."The counties surrounding Tampa Bay all fall in the middle range of Florida's wind codes - from 160 mph in parts of Sarasota County - to 140 mph in parts of Citrus, Hernando and Pasco counties. ..." Does that work ?
I do not like the idea of using wood for the blocking under the rails. Why not use a block made from a composite material? This way you know you will never have an issue with rotting.
Yes, however it is much, much less expensive than the commercial rack systems. And there are a lot of people who are DIY people who want a less expensive way to do things.
Oh jeez. You lost me with using a stud sensor on the roof. Just use a hammer and sound for it. I love DIY videos like this, they give me a ton of business as I go behind and fix these disasters.