Looks really good. Watching now. I just have to mention, don't power those boards while they are on the antistatic bags. Those are conductive and can short the board.
Soooo, we want more upgrades... And a anodizing setup/tutorial. And im building a lowrider as well with basically the same setup, just wondering what bit you used for the aluminum. And i looked up the square tubing, 5mm thick is pretty hard to find
Nice work there. Thanks for sharing. Any idea what improvement you are getting in accuracy over the distance of your work bed? I’m guessing the deflection of the bit is almost gone. ! Thanks again.
do you have the file for the air blast nozzle and the laser mount that you could share. Also could you gives more information on your laser setup? thanks for a great video. can't wait to start building mine
Great Job! However everywhere I look for a SKR 1.3 they are discontinued or unavailable. What would you recommend in its place? I would like to follow what you did here however I want the coding to be correct and I worry the BigTreeTech V1.4 will mess something up.
Did you machine those trusses in there (on the thingiverse model) for any other reason than it looks dope? I dont have a cnc router but I do have access to a mill. Thinking about fabricating a set before I build mine
Thank you for posting! I've implemented many of your upgrades but complicated my life by using an SKR 2.0 Rev B. I think I've overcome al the complications. One question I have is regarding your X axis. Did you run the two motors in series? Did you change the amperage settings in the firmware to allow for running two motors?
Making it long is easy, it rides along the longer side of your table. Width is trickier, 34 inch work area is doable, however table should be much wider than that, something like 42. Use this calculator to run your numbers: docs.v1engineering.com/lowrider/calculator/
What keeps the low rider tracking parallel all the way up and down the board that it's sat on? It seems like any tension difference in the belts or resistance differences somewhere would cause it to skew
Hello, Thank you for your information, wanted to ask, what thickness should be the steel shafts for a 2 by 1.5 meters diy simple cnc frame, are 20mm shafts strong enough for such x and y length and would nema 23 motors be good enough to move the axis or should be bigger?
Check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0PEGNj5m90o.html It goes over the concepts, which are the same for all SKRs as far as I understand.
Great! I'm interested in making the same change you did. Could you share the plastic pieces and the dxf of the new plate? I would like to have a second Y stepper and use a bigger dust port. Is the second motor connected in parallel with the first motor? I have ramps 1.4 with dual endstop so I am using E0 and E1 as 2nd X and Z engine respectively. If I want to put a second motor Y I would not know how to connect it. Maybe it is only possible with the SKR 1.3 THANKS!!!
Here's a link to STLs and DXF. Second Y motor is connected to the same driver as the first one. With SKR I got 5 drivers, 2x for each Z, 2x for each X - those are for automatic squaring, Y motors connected to the same driver.
@@cantsitstill9056 Thanks, the makita plate parts link is broken. If you can upload again in some time great. Thanks for share!!! I will try your design.
@@cantsitstill9056 Thanks for this. I already change my configuration like yours but Im using Ramps 1.4 and its running ;). Y motor conected to the same driver in parallel conection. Being connected in parallel, you had to double the driver voltage, right? Thanks!
@@juanandrescarri27 mine are connected in series as advised by Ryan from V1. I think you right about voltage for parallel connection, but please double check it on V1 forum.
Hello...great machine!...I have CNC with arduino uno and cnc shield v3 and drv8825 drivers...can i replace those drivers with tmc2209 for quiter joging? and will i have sensorless homing with that or I need SKR 1.3 board?
I'm not sure if tmc2209 would work with older shields, I doubt it. The different between a full set of TMC2209 drivers with and without SKR1.3 board is only $25 (in US), why not get the whole set?
@@cantsitstill9056 can I install grbl on skr board? :) I get used to grbl, and I use Openbuilds control software, which I think is the best for controlling cnc, so I would like to stay on grbl. :)
@@cantsitstill9056 yes but if i don't have a cnc or 3d printer to mill these parts, on my first assembly maybe i could make those parts from hard wood. Like beech wood or maple, do you think that's steady enough?
That's super cool, I want to build one the same, everyone at the Forums is pushing the LR3 but this design seems a bit more versatile.@@cantsitstill9056
@@user-vm3ow7vx6l SKR 1.3 board has 5 drivers, 2x for Z (1 for each Z motor), 2x for Y (1 for each Y motor) - this is needed to mate auto-squaring working. Now 2x X motors are connected to the same drivers in series, as described here: docs.v1engineering.com/electronics/steppers/
