One suggestion when wiring stepper motors. If you have four wires, then they are in two pairs. If you don't know which pairs go together, you can easily figure it out. Just connect a two wires together. Then try to turn the motor by hand. If it turns easily, then those two wires don't go together. When you get the correct pair, the motor will be hard to turn. Also, if you have a motor that is going the opposite direction, you can simply swap how one of the pairs is connected to your controller board. For example, if you have a black/green pair and a red/blue pair, you can just switch around how the black and green are wired or how the red and blue are wired. You only have to do one pair and you don't swap between pairs. Of course, you can also change direction in the software that you use to control the machine if you don't want to swap wires.
Great build. Well done indeed :) . When I began designing and building my first CNC router, I had no idea that CNC machines even existed. Yup, I was THAT ignorant! That stated, this 1/4 ton machine is 13 years old, and still runs like a dream, even though it is made from components that you'd find in hardware stores. It is amazing what you can build, if you are truly determined to make it happen :) .
You dont want your Y longer than your X, because of accuracy. You cant support your Y while you can support your X. A longer Y will give you less acccurate results. You can level your X over the total length (adding support). Thats why all the big CNC are also build this way.
Thank you very much for all your hard work and the clarity of your explanations! I'm so new to CNC that I haven't even started yet, but these posts were very understandable. You said you're considering adding a second Y-Axis motor and its associated hardware to prevent wracking of the X-Axis gantry. Replacing the aluminum cross-bar with one is 180mm wide (the Y-direction width of the gantry) ought to greatly increase the geometric fidelity. Looking at the Autodesk model it may be that cut-outs where the ball screw ends or altering the gantry's limits would be necessary, but this is a lot less expensive and complicated than all the hardware land electronics for the additional motor. Just a thought...
Thank you for the video series! Very inspiring. You sir are an engineer. Its not about the credentials, it's about the projects under your belt. They speak volumes on a resume.😊 Interesting design. I would like to try using one stepper motor for the x-axis on the extruded aluminum. Use some type of belt system with Gilmer pullies. Like a timing belt for an engine. I think it would save you a buck or two to have these round rails drilled and tapped along the length. Something like the rail system of a roller coaster. Utilizing the same c-shaped sliders you have. Drill them all the way through, use allen head threaded rod and your t-nuts. Had to add my two cents like a real troll 😅
Looks like I get to be the first to thank you for sharing all this! Building a diy cnc router I would have considered to be foolish until I saw this (and your first video). Excellent work!
opto-isolators are for electrical isolation not noise suppression. You can have earthing problems or voltage spike pick-up which can damage (kill) the Arduino or other controller. As you discovered shielding is the answer for noise but does not mean the optos are redundant.
Mr. Ben, you have a predicament on your hands, it's what we call one o' them "good problems": you have an entire audience waiting for content, vs a bunch of content waiting for an audience. Make some more "everything" please, this is good stuff.
Great video and kudos for the tons of information given for building your own. Most of all thank you so much for no distracting music especially the over played and over used royalty free music. You gave a lot of information in a short amount of time. Very well done. Thanks!!
Thanks for this heads up in the comment from the other video man. Brilliant stuff here.. I priced 6060 from the UK and it's bloody cheap. I'll be buying that soon while it's cheap as chips and I've already looked at a .8kw Spindle & VFD so it'll cost around 5/600 euros which is great.. Thanks for all this great information man..
Thank you for a very nice and clear video and I think your mechanical set up is much better than many other machines you see here on YT. I am considering to build one machine of my own instead of the Chineese one that I have. To get a stabile mechanical frame is essential and it's not necessarily making the design more expensive. Having two Y-axis ball screws is a good idea and also to attach the Y-rails directly to the table, as you have done, is good for stability. I would also use linear rails but I would choose roller guides instead of ball guides. Hiwin have linear roller bearings as small as 15 mm (RGH or RGW) to a reasonable cost. I would also make it possible to have the option to install double ball nuts on each ball screw and here by be able to do away with any clearance. It is important to get the ball-screws as close to the centreline of the spindle as possible in order to minimize the length of the lever that the cutting forces will exsert on the linear guides and the X-axis cross beam. I am even considering to have two Z-axis screws moving the entire X-axis up and down. Double screws makes it possible to fine adjust the right angle between axis. You didn't mention what type of axial bearings you use for the ball screws. Double row angular contact bearings I believe is a good choice (I changed to 3200 in my machine). Thanks for chairing your build and as a mechanical engineer I appreciate the structure of your build.
I completely forgot you're brand new to RU-vid! So excited to see the kind of content you put out next. Just here to give more support. Your content inspired me to finish some projects I'm working on that I've been putting off 😅
Looking at what features you want to use for your improved CNC does a pretty good description of the PrintNC project. If you want plans for a lot of the features you mentioned, look up PrintNC.
@gizmo bowen : The PrintNC is a pretty neat concept, but I get a strong feeling that Ben gets a lot of his enjoyment from thinking things out for himself, rather than making someone elses design. That would certainly be the case for me. I really like what he has created, and the path forward if he chooses to go there.
Thanks for the breakdown! This (and the original video) are my absolute favorite content on RU-vid - keep it up! Would be great to know what the actual $ spend was in any future similar videos of whatever you build next!
Well, thank you for doing the heavy lifting. I designed and built a CNC router nearly 15 years ago using Nema23's and Stepper drivers making use of Mach3. I am an E.E. (retired) so that wasn't much of a problem. I've since built/designed a CNC Laser, CNC conversion for HF Lathe and likewise CNC converted a HF Mini Mill, again all make use of Mach 3. This is NOT my hobby however, these are tools I use for my RC Airplane hobby. My CNC Router is seriously deficient compared to modern types. It was ok in its day but now there's better due to the availability of better rails and such. My suggestions to better your build, or rather keep it a bit more affordable, would be to replace some of the machined aluminum parts with other materials such as HDPE, Carbon Fiber and/or G10. Certain parts can be machined from these cheaper materials and done so more easily. In my case I will be doing some of your parts likely in HDPE using (ironically) my older CNC Router. Additionally, the couplers you used are prone to wear over time and have some serious issues with lash. A better choice would be zero-lash couplers. I'm keeping my electronics and of course Mach3. I would recommend to buy and use a Variac to slow the speed of your spindle when necessary. It would be nice to have control of that in the programming but as you mentioned the cost can be quite high for the motor and speed controller. Further, the extrusions can be purchased to very precise lengths (to a couple thousands) from a company in Illinois named Misumi and so too the corners, angles and couplers needed to assemble the frame. Variac: www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Transformer-Voltage-Automatic-Regulator/dp/B07ZH95TGN/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1D599CSQETYI0&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QkmsTJrNwgmqmhadJoYu6tULVyuAELovvrvngXTaj1jbayDGQUFD4vVKgF4oGOzquygMB3pmBg39WdWGtdTIsUHvsccZ935NHjtz4gu-SW7A19HCnL_3xP_Z4xeCjFs2hHrOmSlKSmxHgrxE3zbrBciKNjmWlx4wIYlfegaZ3dj_kArVgaLH5UDxr0ddOvDSaH20DewNeNtwre1U7c3RhD7SQ3b9V9wMp7UKsyu22L4.rFCxCcszH1cl-SVr68ET0S2g6jXPf5_aESdSk6RBl1k&dib_tag=se&keywords=variac+120v&qid=1711036971&sprefix=variac%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-3 Misumi: us.misumi-ec.com/
Thank's Ben. You got so much "right first time" with this machine. The Wishlist for next time will predictably cause "Budget-Bulge", but not every item needs to be included at day one. For example, swapping the router for a spindle shouldn't require a major rebuild, if done later. I understand the appeal of exchanging the X and Y axis dimensions; would the greater span of the gantry still be OK in terms of rigidity? Chris, on his iforce2d channel, made a CNC Router that uses a single stepper driving two ball-screws by a GT15 toothed belt (I think), moving the gantry. This appears to work really well, and should be cheaper than doubling up on steppers, drivers, homing switches, and the requirement for a homing routine to square the gantry at each startup. Again, thanks for these videos; I have filed them in my "Workshop & Tools" folder, as reference pieces for the future! 👍 😃
Thanks for the input John, I'm glad you enjoyed the videos. Using a single motor to drive 2 screws is an interesting idea and not something I ever thought of.
Dual Y motors essential unless you set up a crossover tension wire like you find of traditional draughtsman's table. Many projects do this, though dual drive is worth it if you have the budget. It would be good if you ran some test peices and measured them to check for perpendicularity and dimensional accuracy. (Though you may have good reasons not to show that :) )
The machine you built has made some lovely work = it is good enough for what you need. Personally, I wouldn't upgrade it if you want a better machine. Build the next one with this one. You can never have too many machines, especially if you want start production. If not, sell it as is, as I say it is a great machine and someone would pay good money for it.
When I designed my machine (very similar but with more aluminium extrusions and bigger machine) I noticed the flat plate gantry sides were my main source of problems. Plates offer surprisingly little rigidity for their weight. So, I ended up using extrusions for the gantry verticals as well. Same weight, much more stiffness.
Interesting. I figured 10mm plate would be ridgid, but maybe its not as good as I thought. Might look into doing that for the next version of this machine .
While this is incredibly impressive and would be fantastic for me to have, I absolutely won’t be building this any time soon. That being said, I would love for you to use your CNC to make something I created and have made a few of now (the hard way). I don’t really know why I want you to do it other than it would be nice for the idea to be out there. The idea is a chessboard with a sort of topographic surface instead of a flat surface. If this intrigues you at all, please let me know and I can send you some more details.
Just a thought, the closed loop steppers will not really close the real loop, it will be good a tracking where the shaft is but completely unreliable at knowing how far things are off due to backlash, slip, or any mechanical issue. To close the real loop you want linear encoders on the axis to know how much error you need to correct. The closed loop stepper will allow you to correct speed, the encoders will allow you to correct position. If budget allowed, I would look at correcting position first.
@ogarza3 : I agree with what you are saying. A closed loop stepper will compensate for missed steps, and ensure the stepper output shaft ends up at the intended position, or generates an error if the intended postion cannot be reached. It will not compensate for accuracy losses due to backlash, inadequate rigidity, slipping couplers etc. I believe CAM software often has provision to compensate for backlash etc... though I don't have experience of it. Are you able to point me to a video showing the type of linear encoders you are referring to, I don't recall seeing anything that would apply to a "Hobby Grade" machine?
@@PiefacePete46 I am not aware if there are any videos showing hobby grade components, they are not cheap, specially of you go down to micron or sub micron, but you may have some luck looking at LinuxCNC forums or groups, as I do recall seing some builds with them.
@@ogarza3 : I've been pondering this further: if you have linear encoders, the encoders will keep sending messages until the required position is reached... Good. However, if you have any backlash, the cutting forces will still create chatter, which I don't think any control / motion system will be able to overcome. If you try to cut a slot the same width as the cutter, the cutter will bounce from one wall to the other, the carriage will oscillate back and forth because of the backlash, and the result will be a mess. Of course, cutting slots that way is a dumb idea right from the start! 😋
@@PiefacePete46 If you are cutting a slot or fillet the same width/radius as your end mill, then the problem is either a bad design or a new machinist, you always want the tool a smaller radius so that the contact between the tool and the piece is minimized ;). In this case no closed system will save you, and if you don't break the bit you will probably heat treat the part haha.
👏👏👏Its good to see someone build their own from scratch, it aint easy but it is rewarding and you get to know how a CNC works very well this way. Well done👏👏👏 Now the fun really starts , add a 4th axis and do some real advanced 3d carving 😄Swap out that board for a 4 axis 32 bit controller, about 50 USD , add the chuck and carve away. It's a lot more fun , then you can add a tool changing head eventually if you want but that is really another league. You could also add a Laser head by just swapping the spindle for when you need it, a good 20 Watt diode will be perfect forit, just watch your spoil board though! Add a Probe and E stop as well. Try and stick with GRBL and dont bother with Mach 3/4 , the main hobby community uses GRBL and although Mach software is far better you can do pretty much anything you want in GRBL and its easier to get support when you need it. Mach 3 & 4 is for professional users mainly and while I do use it on one older CNC machine my newer ones all run GRBL.and work just fine....
Forget half the comment I’ve made on the previous video. You seem to have gotten it sorted except for the ‘live’ audio. I’ll be more than happy to send you a rode wireless lav mic though I’m based in Australia. Good luck brother wish you all the best.
Thanks! That's a very kind offer, but the larger issue is that my camera doesn't have a microphone jack. I'm planning on getting a new one soon, so I'll be able to have better audio in future videos.
I have used Mach4 based CNC and grbl ones... I 100% prefer the GRBL ones! One issue with Mach4 (besides the price) is that the PC is doing the calculations and sending data to the controler card. This leads to way more back and forth between the machine and the PC than with GRBL which is basically self sufficent. A good example is probing, with GRBL, you can go probe VERY fast as the probing happens in the card and can stop in a ms (assuming deceleration is faste enough). With mach 4, you can have upward or 20ms of delay between the moment when the card sees the probe signal, sends it to the PC, the PC reacts and send a stop signal to the board... Newer 32 bit based GRBL are just wonderful in comparison!
@@benmakeseverything There is FluidNC. Its running on an ESP32 and is a fork of GRBL. And if this is still not enough, there is always LinuxCNC with a Mesa-Card.
The Arduino Controller (ATMEGA32) only has an 8 bit architecture. That means the biggest number it can handle is 256. If you want to calculate with larger numbers, it has to do some extra steps that cost time. STM32 has a 32 bit architecture, meaning it can handle much larger values (2^32-1) without doing extra steps. It also has a higher clock speed, meaning it can do more operations in the same time. The MEGA32 is a pretty old processor and there is pretty much no reason to use it anymore as a hobbist. It was a solid component with a low price, but its time to move on to more modern parts.
Sculptris is also a good free 3d design program as well I use for all my work and blender. If you can still find it that is.. I have not used the z brush basic, but that maybe a a good program as well.. But don't quote me on that one.. Doing a diy build on one of these my self.. Your build guide is great to use for reference.. Thanks for the vid..
Also, FreeCAD is open, free, and capable. I've designed several products with it and occasionally use the CAM features to emit gcode for a little GRBL controller.
@@benmakeseverything I have used LinuxCNC with a Mesa fpga card for almost 8 years in my shop, sometimes running 12 hrs a day, started with steppers and moved to servos, no problem at all with that config. Sold the shop 4 years ago and, AFAIK, that setup is still being used
Hey Ben, For wood carving it does not impact much if x and y is not perfect square, but for a 2 part mold it would.🤓 What is the measurement for the x y diagonal for your holes? I quess your holes a layed out square, so should in theory be identical. If you have a spare spoilboard, flipping it over on top of the existing would also show if you have issues with squareness. I have a china 900x600 and it needed some shimming to get adjusted. 🧐 Anyway, super good video and detail level 👍👌
The holes are laid out on a 2"x2" grid. I made a little tool that chucks into the router and can be rotated around (manually) to check if the router was square with the top of the machining surface. And yeah, I did use some super thin aluminum shims where the Z axis attaches to fix that.
@@benmakeseverything yes equally important that the z is 90 degree to the X Y surface. What I was interested in was if the 2" by 2" grid made by the router was actually 90 degrees and not a parallelogram, which was what happened to me. 🧐🤓
Very informative and well built videos. I didn't read all the comments if it was mentioned but I highly recommend to get a portable or any wearable microfon for the scene shots. The echo in the room makes the video hardly understandable. Great job there anyway!
Hello I have seen your video and I find it very interesting Sorry for my English (I use a translator) I am a mechatronics student in Mexico Can you share the arduino program you use?
I would have a suggestion for improvement on your videos for e.g. 0:31. The other voice recordings (0:17-0:26) sound clearer and better. Here the space is unfavorable. This is very annoying for people sitting at the PC with a headset. 😃
i see for first time an isolator board for limit switch, they are harmless. to get rid of interference twist the wires, connect capacitor between GND and signal, and 1kOhm resistor between 5v and signal.
Great project. You don’t appear to have pull up/down resistors on your logic outputs from arduino. This would be why you are having interference issues where your opto isolators didn’t help.
You're right, I should. When I built this I knew a lot less about electronics than I do now. I have been meaning to rebuild the electronics but have been busy with other stuff.
I also had high hopes for closed loop. After actually trying them I'm disillusioned... SO many wires, delay in step actuation, delay in enabling, whenever they aren't happy they just shut off and need to be power cycled. Take more space and don't even have more power than a regular stepper! Not a fan for now.
@Maxim Kachurovskiy : Interesting feedback Maxim. So often Closed-loop systems are presented as the "Holy Grail" of CNC machinery... a Must-Have, if your budget allows. Things are not always as we are told then!
I don't think the closed loop stepper is a great idea anyway, it won't even close the real loop, which is the actual distance the machine is moving. What you really want is the feedback from some linear encoders mounted on each of the axis which would take care of any mechanical error due to backlash, missing steps, or whatever. It's the only way the system will know how much error it needs to correct.
Hi Ben, Thanks for the inspiring videos! I'd like to ask you, or anyone who has successfully built a *reliable* and *dependable* CNC machine, how much tweaking and fiddling you had to do before every project? Put another way, what percentage of time is spent fiddling with the machine to get it to work reliably and with confidence over actually using it in its purpose as a tool? My past experience, and I am not exaggerating, 99% trouble 1% success. I bought a "Bobs CNC E3" router based on Arduino/GRBL/Universal G Code Sender and spent at least 100 hours in frustration, troubleshooting, tweaking, tightening, calibrating, back and forth to learn Gcode commands, troubleshoot the GCode etc. and never got the machine to make a basic test pattern cut, without a problem, like the Z axis plunging through the work piece for no apparent reason, leading right back into the circle of problems. I do not have these problems with other CNC type devices I own, which are NOT GRBL based. At this point I am skeptical of any Arduino based CNC using GRBL.
It definitely requires some fiddling around with and tweaking of the settings at first. Now I am at the point where I don't have too many issues though. I just used it to cut some 1/8" aluminum plates for a new project I'm working on (video coming soon) and had no real issues. I've also done several wood carvings without problems. The only re-occurring issue I had is that sometimes it doesn't return to exact 0 after a job, so if I am using multiple tool paths on one project I have to double check that it did before the tool change. But I do think that GRBL/arduino is not the best platform for this, and would look into a dedicated CNC control board + Mach 3/4 for any future machines I build.
Have you heard of OpenBuilds? I think you’d really enjoy their build guides for future projects, and their shop for picking up supplies! I’m actually shocked you didn’t just follow an OX variant build guide and invested the time to design your own machine
For me, creating and building my own design, (having studied other peoples projects) would be the most enjoyable, and hopefully satisfying, approach I could think of.
@@PiefacePete46 very true! Even in that case, OpenBuilds does have a ton of designs in one place to study and pick/choose from :) I kind of… inherited? most of the parts to build a mill with their parts (extrusions, nema 23’s, drivers, belts, router etc) but I just don’t have the space for it :( One day!
Hello. I love this video, I am currenlty in the process of building my own CNC router very close to your plane. I was just wondering. What size guide rails did you get (SBR-XX)? How much does your machine weigh?? Thank you and keep up making those great videos.
I would suggest anyone learning from this re-examine a few areas. Number ONE rigidity. Flat plate is very poor rigidity for the weight use some kind of hollow section like the ali extrusion or stiffen those risers with 1" steel tube. There are calculations you can find on line for simple sections, this is worth studying before starting. The motors are way too big and big is not always better. Larger motors have bigger coil inductance and this limits step speed and slows the whole machine down noticeably. Look at the winding impedance in the spec sheet when buying. Carving is not very demanding but your ali milling speaks for itself, you are an order of magnitude too loose on rigidity.
How do I gett from paper planes to G code, could you please show a video on what software is needed and how to transfer drawn paper planes of RC plane to code to use on CNC machining
I am looking at doing something very similar but using a 3018 router as a sacrificial equipment, basically because the 3018 router has a offline controller that has a SD card reader, my question I have is do you think the Arduino controller may converse with the stepper drives, it seems I may have a newer one than you have, it has an output for a laser module (bonus). I also am sitting here looking at my benchtop drill press and thinking of putting linear rails under it with these controls, it can drill 3/4 holes in steel. I have a 3d printer so I can make adapters for the spindle, but just looking at it for now with an evil laugh.
Hello Ben, I wish to thank you for sharing the Video on the Router machine you have built .The information you provide is excellent.I am building a manual one for time being and will upgrade to a CNC like you have built in a short time to come.Need your advice, can the Stepper Motor be use for Routing in heavy use like production, which please advice. Thanks & Regards, Richard Yap
It really depends on what type of production work you are doing with it. The NEMA 23 - 425oz/in torque stepper motors I am using are very strong, but larger machines may use even bigger NEMA 34 motors.
Out of interest how did you find the process of calibrating the machine? For example, how to ensure that 10mm on screen translates to 10mm on the workpiece? Was there a lot of manual measurements and offset adjustments etc required? When I began 3D printing I found this process quite tedious with printing calibration cubes and trying to measure fractions of a mm and adjust the firmware (Marlin back in those days) to get everything dialled in just right
I got a rough estimate by calculating it using the pitch of the ball screw combined with the steps per rotation of the motor, then dialed it in using the method you described.
It was a place near where I used to live that sold metal plates/bar/pipes, old tools, and other random stuff like that. I'm not sure how common places like that are. Maybe try a scrapyard?
Thanks Ben so much for the plans, its good to be able to take a look at them, did you ever finish the plans for version two with the twin ball screws on the bed at all? I would be quite interested in building that one over this winter as a project for myself. I would scale it down as I want a smaller desktop model but I want it to primarily machine Brass or Copper. Cheers, keep up the good work thanks from Spain.
Thanks. I have not built version 2 yet, I have been working on other projects. But I would still like to in the future. The only thing I have changed at all since the video is the Z-Axis. If I do a full-scale upgrade or rebuild, I'll definitely make another video on it.
Do you have issues with random stops, or some wierd lags? As i can see you using arduino with ch340 converter(that 16 leg ic near usb port ) you need arduinouno board with atmega16u2 as converter ic. Great project!
One question I was hoping to see was, how long did this take you? Both in terms of "I started in March, and it was done in September", and the approximate number of hours you put into the build (since presumably you didn't work on this non-stop.)
I had the idea over a year ago, and worked on it on and off for at least 6 months, but I have a full time day job so was only able to do a little here and there. I don't know the actual number of hours. The main roadblock I hit was the DPSS laser issue and having to design a custom driver/switching circuit as I mentioned in the video - took me a while to figure that all out.
You only need one power supply, assuming it can provide enough amps of current. Check the maximum power draw of each motor and multiply by the number you are using. And of course leave a little extra just in case.
You can't cheap on CNC, especially if you plan to work with metal. Good for you that you had time and motivation (and apparently, you had money too) but this is not where I would spend my effort. thank you for the sharing though.
I have a question on the design of this CNC machine. Would it be better to have Y axis mounted solid and have the plywood bed be driven in Y? It looks to me that the mass of the entire X & Z assemblies will affect performance. Just a thought...
That's definitely an option and some machines use that configuration. It is probably more rigid, but the downside is a larger overall machine footprint for the same cutting area since the whole cutting platform moves back and forth.
What program do U use to make yur design on yur CNC router,,, cause that is where me is lost at,,, program it on my PC to do the cutting ok,,,,me i hope,,,???
I made the designs in Blender and ZBrush. To create the toolpaths that actually tell the machine what to cut, I import them into Fusion360 and use the CAM tool there.
Mind elaborating just a bit more on the limitations of the Arduino? What software do you use to talk to the CNC, and how is the performance limited by the Arduino?
Sure. The Arduino clock speed is only 16MHz, so it could could potentially be a limiting factor in interpreting the gcode if it can't keep up with what the PC is sending. On the PC side, I use Universal Gcode Sender. It seems to work pretty well but I'd be interested in looking into other options.
@@benmakeseverything thanks bro. I've got all the knowledge required to build the hardware.. software wise I'm still trying to understand the best way to talk to the machine..
The maximum thickness would be 3 inches (7.6cm) due to the clearance height of the bottom of the Z-axis assembly. I could have made it taller, but that was plenty for what I want to do with the machine.
Sorry about that, I have now created a Github repo where the files are hosted, hopefully that will work for everyone: github.com/BenMakesEverything/Ben_CNC_v1
Just wondering with water cooled spindle do you have ideas of what to change so can machine steel too? I don't care if just machine at like 0.1mm depth on each pass just like to have one with the ability if I need it
Yeah it would be awesome to be able to cut steel. I think overall the machine would just need more rigidity. As I mentioned in the video, better linear rails would be a big improvement.
@@benmakeseverything I been thinking linear rails anyway but seeing what you did makes me think of DIY instead of buy a machine to then help DIY the parts, also as where I am thinking to counter weight the gantry so can like fix to a wall as not got much space where I live I have thought to make like a square frame then make it inside of it so like keep material away from rails like the Queen bee or other has C profile where drive bit sits inside the C on outside the machine area Mainly thought machine steel as like make machine stronger than aluminium plates and also small projects in future if need steel but rest be softer material
love the project! can you tell me if yours is Linux-compatible? I don't mean Adobe Fusion or the sculptor, but whether it works with linux-based g-controller apps.
@@benmakeseverything thanks for the response! I asked because in theory it _should_ be compatible, but I don't have the hardware nor can I afford it at the moment so I can't actually test it.
Hallo. I cannot open some files. But i wann to bild IT like yours abd than milling aloy. . Do you have Drawings or other little helps? BR from an old German Garage kid.
Hi, sorry for the late response. It has come to my attention that some people could not open the files, so I created a Github page and hosted them there: github.com/BenMakesEverything/Ben_CNC_v1 Hopefully that will be accessible.
Are you selling any of them? I need one the size you have made already... and it would be for what I need for my new start up business.. let me know if you are selling them?
I'm not selling any at this point. It took a long time to make and I still use it for projects. But if you want you can download the cad files. Also, there are other small but capable machines like the Shapeoko and Xcarve if you are looking for something pre-bult.
