Love that your reviews not only highlight how effective a product is but the value, how much it costs to use each time. No one else is doing that as effectively as you and it really matters! Glad you brought your review style to the DIY Detail line. I wish BH was available in the US as cost effectively as it is there, my search for value and effective products would be over, but alas not yet.
I get bh products from carzilla in Canada, don’t know how that would work in the us but as far as I’m concerned getting the products from them ain’t too expensive and it’s quite a good value actually
I was happy to see you test this. I highly vote for you to try the spray polish. I’ve grown to really enjoy it but don’t have nearly your expertise. Thx
Something seems a bit off, I have used Incredible Suds with all types of pressure washers and foam cannons (@1 Oz.) and it has never failed to produce thick foam. (in the mid-Atlantic, east coast U.S. area) As a pre-wash, on moderately soiled vehicles, I do like to add 1 Oz. of DIY All-Clean, with Incredible Suds to the foam cannon. For very heavily soiled vehicles, or vehicles getting a coating I will actually use just All-Clean @15:1 in a foaming pump sprayer, as a pre-wash. Yes, the pre-wash, has not caught on here in the States, most are still stuck on the pre-rinse and 2-bucket process. As far as labeling, you happen to choose the ONLY product that they have, admittedly, had a problem with. New labels would be nice, and I'm sure it's in the works. They have had new product delays, solely because of waiting for labels. So, what seems to be an easy fix on the surface, may not be from a logistical, back-end, standpoint. Pricing can be an issue too, you can easily attribute around 35% of the landing price, to shipping alone, as a gallon of Incredible Suds, here, is only $75 (£60). The Opposite is true, as Bilt Hamber products are almost double your price here in the States. When you factor in the PIR they want you to use, it makes it astronomically expensive, regardless of how well it works! I would be interested in your evaluations and conclusions if you factored in a reversal in pricing?
I agree I’ve been using incredible suds for almost a year now and have had great foam production with only 1 ounce in my foam cannon. Maybe it wasn’t mixed all the way when he first sprayed it. I do think the soap is a bit thick so I pre dilute my soap mix in a gallon jug. Active 2.0 w/ MJJC S v3 foam cannon plus incredible suds is my go to and probably won’t change for a while.
so it does not produce thick foam at 30ml to 970ml in a lance. nothing will I covered that in the video. It doesnt even produce thick foam in the DIY detail video to be fair. In terms of labelling and saying Im choosing a product with a fault on the label, that seems a bizarre comment to make for anyone wanting to watch a product review. No Im reviewing incredible suds which has a fault on the label. really I should be following the instructions on the label and reporting results. I broke that rule, which favours the brand not the consumer. But at the very least we have to discuss the fact its wrong Pricing indeed is an issue, and that door swings both ways exactly like you say. BH is too expensive in the USA and if they dont address that, it will stay niche, and probably fail in the USA, and I hope someone is brave enough to say that when they review it in the USA because its true. This is not my problem to solve. Its my problem to tell my viewers how much it costs relative to what they can purchase. Its a problem the brands have to solve, and there are solutions. So my benchmark foam or car soap, would prolly be 1900:1 thats roughly twice as concentrated as this product and the cost per wash is about 1/5 of the incredible suds. In terms of BH, people dont understand you can use it upto 5% pir. But if you cross compare touchless or autofoam at the same ratio as other products its more powerfull. Just let that point soak in. The reason they say use at 5% pir is it will remove heavy dryed on winter road film at that ratio. But I will often use it at 1-2% pir. I showed the comparative cleaning power difference at the same ratio. The cleaning power of incredible suds at 5% PIR is above average, but you must use the product at .3 to .5% PIR which is 10 times less. At that ratio it does not touch my dirt simm. Most things will struggle at that ratio to be fair.
I've used Incredible Suds 30mL in a 1000mL foam cannon, using a 900 PSI pressure washer and a larger 1.4mm orifice (i.e. lower pressure and larger orifice should make less foam), and still had much thicker foam than what was seen here.
Way to be classy @diydetail. As for John this video was very poorly done. Not sure how you got that watery mess but I've never had a problem with 1 ounce in the foam cannon giving me incredible foam. I also haven't seen a single video that hasn't produced nice thick foam. Also comparing this to bilt hamber touchless a dedicated pre wash is laughable.
@RichardABW bilt hamber is the benchmark in prewash soap I agree. Incredible suds is not that. It's 8.5ph soap that is slick cleans good and provides great suds. If he wanted to compare it with bilt hamber touchless diy asks that you add diy all clean to it so that it can be used as a good prewash. By itself it's a good soap not a prewash.
Great review Jon. I wasn’t too fussed about their car shampoo because I am a hardened BH fan, however DIY Rinseless IS incredible. I was an ONR fan and I’ve been completely converted. Would also love to to review their Gold Standard Polish as to me that’s the potential game changer for us weekend warriors who only occasionally machine polish
DIY Detail products are reasonably priced in the US. I've had great success with them. As you'd expect, I pay quite a premium for Bilt-Hamber product here in the US. Really like their Touch-Less pre-wash.
For me incredible suds worked at 1-9 (100ml to 900ml water) used in AVA foam canon with my AVA P60 EVO gold standard polish works well though which you need to test out Jon, I've even coated my car with their 5 year ceramic coating and I honestly can say it enhances gloss.
@HamsterDesertEagle Very true, it just seemed to enhance gloss over couple of days as it bonded to the clear coat after initial gloss on the day I applied the coating to the car, you are absolutely right, any ceramic coating would enhance gloss.
@@GrandHuevotes no coating will enchance gloss. unless the base physical gloss on the panel is low. If you polish a laquered car panel to a decent standard the coating cannot add gloss. its something I have demo'd a few times with an expensive goniophotor meter. thats not to say adding a coating makes a car look bad or you cant see other visual improvements beyond gloss. but from a pure measurable gloss perspective what Im saying here is true of coatings. (and waxes and sealants as well).
@@ForensicDetailingI do notice the gloss meter tests not really having a meaningful gain if any, but what about perceived gloss. (Vs measured so the a device)
I agree with some of the other commenters that it seems off. I have been using DIY incredible suds for almost a year now have been enjoying it a lot. It is my favorite soap at the moment, I use it at a 30:1 dilution (1 ounce) in my foam cannon and 1 ounce in my wash bucket. I always had great foam production probably the best I’ve gotten so far. I have an active 2.0 pressure washer, use a 1.25 orifice and use a MJJC SV3 foam cannon. I have purchased a lot of their products and I believe they are high quality. Also the content that Ivan and nick have been putting out is top notch, very helpful and informative for us weekend detailers. Your video was very thought out and I like your content. However ,I think you should give it another shot. Cheers!
@@ForensicDetailing I’d say pour straight into your measuring cup and skip the bottle cap, also use a bit of the mixture to get the rest of the left over soap in the measuring cup into the foam cannon. You also didn’t show in your video if the top knob of your foam cannon was set all the way for the most amount of foam. Not saying you didn’t have it set properly but it’s just so odd that the foam you produced in the video was so thin at the dilution I use and seen so many other videos on RU-vidrs use. Also how hard is your water? Maybe that could play a factor, have about 150 TDS from my spigot.
Im using the bottle cap because thats what they tell me to do. But I checked that 2 capfulls makes 30ml which it did. (and thats more than 1oz which is about 27ml). Gun is set to max foamage. My water and water in UK is hard. I just follow the instructions and comment on results. Ive not watched any other reviews but I have spoken to a few people now and all report the same foaming level (or worse, as like I say my system makes really good foam normally)
I have three foam lances, a MJJC 3.0, Red Autobrite Direct and a old one from CYC in 2011 (black screw top), the latter is very weird. On the maximum foam setting puts out a watery foam, if it’s cranked back slightly from the maximum it thickens up, no idea why though, unless it’s to do with the air and liquid ratio. PW is a Karcher K7 and prior was a K2.20m. I am in the north west of England and the water is not as hard as some places in the Uk
John I just got to say this now. I've been following your channel for quiet a few years now and you never changed throughout the years. Always a pleasure to come by here. If I ever had a question, it was answered within hours. 👍👍
That‘s the „old“ John I like and love: critically testing manufacturers‘ claims. I wished you would have tested those P&S claims that their QDs create gloss and slickness without affecting an underlying LSP. 😉
Yvan Lacroix would like to know your location 😂 Can you test DIY Detail rinseless wash vs P&S absolute? And when you do please use a proper ultra black sponge. Don’t use that nasty green mit
Thanks for this video Jon. I think ive seen enough to make a decision on that shampoo. Whilst I'm not all about the cost, i wouldnt pay what I consider to be high prices, unless the product is outstanding, which this one doesn't appear to be. All the best. 👍
I agree when using a foam cannon you need close to a 50/50 mix for it to makes any sense. We need better pump sprayer type foamers in the industry. Pressure washers waste so much chemicals.
Yea. I have figured out that I need about 350ml or 12 ounzes of product in my foamcannon to cover the car in foam. My pressurewasher-setup dillutes this at a 1:20 ratio. What does that mean? It means that the total amount of product + water equates to 7 liters or close to 2 gallons of prewash is used to cover the car. I think the solution is there - a battery-powered foamer from IK or similar. But it will be slow and "sluggish" compared to the pressurewasher/foamcannon. And the batterypowered foamer isn't cheap. It gets even cheaper if you can do without foam or don't mind doing a bit of pumping. But heck! It's only one or two $ in difference per wash for the convenience per wash! Isn't it? Is it really worth trying to save that dollar? Heck, I just spent 1K$ on a pressurewasher and 20K on the car. Then I'd spend an $ extra per wash to get the job done quick and easy. If I wash my car once a week trough the year, the extra cost would be 52$.
Jon...been watching your vids for yrs and YOU got me hooked on Bilt-Hamber products, inparticular Touchless and Auto-foam, hooked from the jump❗️ The DIY Detail Incredible Suds is awesome, with a pH of 8.5, I use it in my IK Foam Pro 12 (1oz to 1 gallon of distilled water) For salt and muck, I always reach for one of the Bilt-Hamber pre-washes, it melts away everything❗️❗️ DIY Detail Interior Ceramic and Interior Clean and Protect are solid products, hope they find their way to you, one way or another🙏
Jon, I enjoy you reviewing and comparing American products to what’s available across the pond. We’re all always on the hunt for the best products in the world, not just country! 😊
Think you are being incredibly generous with your review here Jon! I get that it's YT & it can't be heavily negative but that cost per wash for something as basic as a pure car shampoo is ridiculous. Also the whole mess around dilutions is very amateurish. You mentioned Ivan being incredibly intelligent & knowing his stuff, the mess around dilutions for this shampoo suggests otherwise, how can he get basic dilution ratios of a car shampoo WRONG REPEATEDLY. He's been around the US detailing scene for years, in my opinion he is a pretender. The fact that he couldn't get the instructions correct on his shampoo says it all for me. I've never been impressed with what he's had to say on many subjects, especially with regards to claying. This fiasco just further confirms for me that I am right about him. Enjoyed the detailed review & it went exactly as I expected it to. I'll stick to quality UK/EU brands for my arsenal 👌😂 looking forward to finding out whats coming from Bilt Hamber!
it's not only Yvan, tens of youtubers, small and big, from northern America conspired all together to make fake videos so they can sell bad car soap in UK
As a consumer washing one car a week I'm happy to pay over the odds for a good product (currently using Turtle Was Pure Wash @ 84p a contact wash). If i was running a business not so much.
Thanks Jon :) Awesome review, and very honest. I've finally finished my tub of BH shampoo, so now I'm looking at Gyeon bathe essence, for a change. I won't be swapping my pre wash though, touchless is the best I've used.
@@johnnyv5995 You need to consider Carpro Reset Shampoo, Its deep cleans like nothing else I've used- no oily film residue, Deep cleans and it really makes a huge visual difference to my Silver Honda Civic that no other shampoo has done before- I would seriously consider this.
Great catching up as always regarding the DIY brand. I to have been struggling as I mentioned with incredible Suds. It masked terribly at the advertised ratios. I also got no suds unless I went for 100ml in my Lance. I’ve been testing most of the others as well in the back ground. Hope your well John
Great review jon, very interesting stuff and a details review! Ps I used wax planet, at 5% PIR about 2 years ago. I’m sure I still have the foam on my drive 😂
The biggest problem we have with products is the point of origin and import export costs causing inflated prices. I find that as a Canadian wanting products from the US that aren’t avIlable here.
Jon, informative video as always, I know the importance of a good shampoo and its great that you are always willing to test so we dont waste money. I also know you love a noodle wash mitt and was wondering if you had seen the Halfords microfibre wheel glove, its essentially a onesided noodle mitt with 5 equal length fingers so you can use it on either hand, its great for getting round the backside of the alloys, washing the face and underside of sideskirts and as its not a thick foam pad, its great to get into that annoying area between the glass and rear spoiler on a focus st. May not last as long as other products but for a fiver its a bargain to work some hard to get at areas.
its prolly really hand but I just hate putting on wet gloves when Im detailing. Thats why I prefer to use a pad. but yer thats just a weird personally preference thing. I can see why the wheel glove might be really cool.
I am American and do a pre wash foam with no contact before I do a contact wash. The DIY product is very foamy at 2 ounces of product in MTM foam cannon on Active 2.0 pressure washer Much less product used vs say Bilt Hamber prewash foams with such high PIR level. All products when imported across the pond are more costly . My current regular prewash is NEVE from Labocosmetica . Dirt challenge DIY wasn't very effective at 5 PIR. Good review.
Great review Jon as always ..I've yet to find a product the compares to Bilt Hamber Touchless . As with all of their products , they do as they are intended if used as intended .
I've had good luck getting a nice foam at 1:128 in a foaming sprayer. I was sad to see that it did poorly in the cannon but your traffic film test was interesting. This was my first video of yours and I'll definitely check out others. Thanks for the great information!
Hi Jon. I actually use the same concentration and same foam gun and get amazing foam .. my pressure washer is 1600 psi, 8L/min .. and I am sure that my water is hard ..and I changed the orifice in the foam cannon to the 1.1 mm Really odd
its not odd at least to me. I must have tested more than 100 automotive shampoos and prewash snow foam. At 30ml to 970ml nothing will produce rich suds in a lance. I would have been totally shocked if this had. Im not saying you cant get better foam than I got but I would expect it only to be a tiny bit better. When I double the ratio it still didnt foam that well. In my exprience you would need about 100ml to 900ml. Ive seem products make good foam at this ratio. and I think the incredible suds can foam up at this ratio. So its not really a major problem but we are testing and showing the product experience against the claimed properties of the product when used as instructed.
Hi John, I love your content! Please keep the videos coming. Pan released a video 6 months ago called Battle of the best snow foams for foam cannons. He used a Kranzle pressure washer and used 1 ounce of each snow foam. He had pretty thick suds, close to Koch Chemie GSF thickness. Pan even stated that the foam was very thick, have a watch for yourself. I think he used the MJJC V3 (the latest version). I've just had another look at the video, he's half filled the bottle so used less water than you have (may even be a little less than half filled). So maybe 2 ounces is the right amount for the amount of water you've used in your foam cannon. Would you mind doing a review for Labocosmetica 3ph wash method (Primus 2.0, Purifica & Semper). They recommend the 2ph method now. Im curious to get see what you think of them. I believe that they have revised the older version that you had previously reviewed. Update: I've just seen one of Jamie's shorts, he used 2 ounces of incredible suds and got a nice thick foam. Could you have possibly be given a dud batch? It's worth trying it again with a batch from a different supplier. Could have possibly been a one off manufacturing error.
Mjjc V3 is not same lance as mjjc pro V2. We looked at primus and purifica m8. To expensive to use for me. No foam will do well 1 Oz to a litre. Nothing. 2 Oz it's possible to get something going. This soap is not great for me. It's also not viable priced wise.
I wasn't stating that MJJC S V3.0 is the same as MJJC pro V2. I was merely informing you as to what setup Pan was using for the comparison. You had asked someone in a previous comment what the difference was between other videos he had seen, and what you had done in your video. You asked what should you do differently? I've seen your previous Labocosmetica video, I believe they have now updated the version you had tested to a newer version. I was interested to see what you thought of the new updated version. I agree with you on the price, everything is getting far more expensive. Do you believe that this is due to companies using better ingredients as some reviewers have stated, or are they just getting greedy as the detailing space has now changed (its more viral and become a fad due to more following on youtube and insta)? They know that a large amount of people will still buy them? Diy Detail have also posted a video stating that if you're getting a very runny foam, it's usually because the mixture has not been mixed enough. They advise shaking the cannon more and trying again. I do believe that you'll get better results / more success by using a pressure washer with better cleaning power. If you still have the Ava P70 or P80 that you previously reviewed, it may be worth trying it again with that machine. Please don't take any of what I'm saying the wrong way. You know far more than me and have been in the detailing space far longer. Just my input from watching so many different reviews/reviewers and playing around with my own set up.
No it's all good m8 I just have to answer on smart phone so it's always very direct. No plans to retest the labo stuff but have their rinseless in next mega test. Shaking the jance was not the issue m8. No snow foam. Will foam up well with 1 Oz to a litre. It's just not enough product. There's a few that can be good at about 3 Oz to a litre. Mjjc pro V2 is best lance for thick foam. The clue here is that the original ratio 3 to 4 Oz per litre is normal and standard and does make thick foam. I suspect there are residue issues at that ratio so they have dialled it back. But we simply follow instructions and show results. In UK though we simply have better performing detergents that are also considerably cheaper. So it's a no from me for this product. But excited to try more DIY stuff and I think the brand will be really well.
@@ForensicDetailing I completely understand. I just wanted to make sure that I hadn't offended you, as I truly respect you and your opinion. I'm not a believer in rinseless, I get that it is for people who are limited to water supply, but I'd rather not wash the car in that case. Call me old school, but the thought of rinseless triggers my anxiety lol. I'll watch the video none the less. I've not used the Diy Detail. I've only seen other reviews, so I'll trust your opinion and review as you know what you're talking about. I agree, we do have some excellent products here in the UK. I love Bilt Hamber products. I haven't used them all, but I'm impressed with the BH that I have used so far. I hear good things about Garage Therapy & Autobrite, but I've not used them myself. I believe that I have seen your previous video regarding Garage Therapy, if im not getting confused. There's another brand, that another reviewer has given positive reviews about, but I've not seen anyone else use it - Squid Ink. When you have time, would you kindly release a video comparing Garage Therapy, Autobrite, Squid Ink, Bilt Hamber. Or a video comparing strictly the British brands as those are often the ones we get at a very reasonable price. I appreciate you taking the time to read my comments and reply to them in detail. Much appreciated! Please continue the videos sharing your knowledge and results as I look to yourself for impartial reviews. I also love how you break down the cost of it all. It really helps my professional detailer friends (I'm not a detailer, just an enthusiast). Have a great day mate 🙂
Hello from across the pond, John. I use the same MJJC foam cannons and have a Karcher K1900 which is 1900 true psi and 1.3 GPM. With a 1.1mm orifice and 2 ounces per full foam cannon, I do get incredible suds and I have that in a few of my videos. Now this is a ph balanced soap, ph level of about 8, so it is not going to compete with things like BH touchless but is wholly intended to be used as a contact wash. Cheers!
so you cannot directly infer cleaning power from PH. when a soap is made they will start from a base and usually add components to balance out the PH and the base will typically start with the most alkaline thing but If seen PH neutral products (which are balanced to PH neutral, out clean higher blends which are not balanced out and sit in the high alkaline) clean better (valet pro advance PH neutral is an example of this). You cannot judge products on where they sit on the PH scale you have to test them on a dirt film layer. Also This product is not wholey designed to be used as a contact wash. If you watch the DIY detail video around 4 minutes 30. This designed it to be used as a prewash in a foam cannon as well, sprayed on, allowed to dwell, and rinsed off, then go back and do the contact wash. So we review its effectiveness as a prewash as well as contact wash.
@ForensicDetailing I agree with you on the ph. Maybe I didn't word things correctly about the pre wash/contact wash. Yes it is intended as both. I meant that it is intended to be used as a contact wash after pre washing. Whereas products like BH Touchless and a few other brands are designed to be strong so that if your vehicle is not filthy, you could use just that as a pre wash and not follow up afterwards as I'm sure you are well aware. Cheers 🍻
yer but we have to rate its effectiveness as a prewash and a contact wash. We are not here to justify the results, just display them. for me its not a great prewash and it does not meet its product claims of gives incredible thick suds. As a contact wash shampoo it felt great though. Really foamy and thick for not a lot of product. Also the value proposition will stop people using it in the UK. 100 quid roughly for 5 litres. Why will people pay that money when all the other brands will sell you 5 litres for 20-40quid. Thats the root of this review but it is only a car soap, its hard to impress and I said the same sort of thing with 99% of the other soaps. To get my 5 star review you have to compete with the top 3 cost per washes or else whats the point.
3D a US based company, maker of 3D One compound/polish, makes a highly concentrated car shampoo and is reasonable priced in the US ($40 for 64 oz.). I use about one oz in about 3 gallons in wash bucket or one oz in foam cannon. I believe it is pH neutral?
Thanks so much for doing this video John I’ve seen DIY videos and how much suds they get and concerned it won’t work so well in UK. I will use up my BH products first though!
One big concern is the "blasting" detailers. Insted of chemicals doing the bruntwork, there are detailers on youtube practicing 15 or 25 degrees nozzle close contact on brute force pressuwashers doing some heavy blasting - negating the need for chemicals.
Watched a recent DIY Detail video and they recommended foam, rinse, foam and contact wash, the second foam layer providing extra lubrication. What are your thoughts on this?
John, you mentioned you havent seen a decent American pre wash soap. Id give 3D Super Pre Soak a try. Their lable on the front says simple straight forward dilution in bold. I think youd like that :p
There is something seriously wrong here. I've used incredible suds several times and never have seen that before. 30ml product to 750ml of water, if I used 120 ml in 750 ml water, it would be shaving cream X 10. Very odd. As for pricing in Canada, 1Gallon Incredible suds is $98+ tax, BH Touchless 5L is $74+tax.
Did you plan to test some of Polish companies ? Like Cleantle, Pure chemie or shiny garage ? They have a lot of good stuff, like pre-wash, wsr shampoo Perfect stuff for cleaning seat belts, tires and all around. Highly recommended!
Something doesn't seem quite right. There are plenty of videos on YT showing using 1oz and yielding what it took you 4oz to achieve. Some of them with the exact same cannon. That's not to say that you're doing anything wrong, of course. I just wonder how that kind of thing would happen... it's a very stark difference.
I may be wrong and not sure what mix setting u had your foam cannon at. It would seem that DIY details with a foam cannon and the mix nozzle is fully closed which may explain. But I may be wrong. Worth checking there videos
What i don't understand is how other YT reviews show the results that DIY does and you got your results. I'm sure there's a rational explanation, but I'm damned if i know. Cleaning power at .3% pir just seems too good to be true. Good work there. Cheers
I use an MTM foam cannon (lance), and Sunjoe pressure washer with Incredible suds. With a 1.25 nozzle I get shaving cream lather. Something seems very wrong with your test. Other RU-vidrs have shown many times that the 1 oz to 31 oz ( 30ml to 970ml) produced incredible foam. I think the biggest disconnect between us and the UK is we don’t mind a bit of work. A chemical that strips road grime like that will have negative effects. We expect the foam to remove grit, and the contact wash to remove the traffic film. In their videos they explain it quite often, the first foaming is to remove grit from the surface, the second is as lubrication for the contact wash.
we put 30ml in with 970ml and shake it and show results using a reasonably powerfull pressure washer and a lance thats known for producing thick suds (thicker than MTM). Other testers like steve in the comments get the same foaming level. No product will make shaving foam at this ratio. nothing, nada, does not exist, or Ive not seen it in nearly 10 years of testing. Heres the interesting bit. Ideally you want the traffic film to be removed before you make contact, it makes washing the car easier and safer. IF you remove traffic film with contact you will abrade off your protection rapidly and risk scratching the paint and any bits you fail to contact, you leave patches of dirt. LSP is cheap and readily available, you can use a spray and rinse product instantly to add protection during the drying process etc. Clearcoat however is not cheap or easy to replace. So its a question of what you value the most, preserving your LSP or preserving your paintwork. The industry has a lot of prewashes which are not effective on traffic film, ive been talking about this for many years. If the USP with a product is its milder and more LSP safe, but it does not really clean well as a prewash, then you are aligning yourself with the entire market of ineffective products of which there are many (and to be fair some of the market may well want this). Also differences in PH or lets say "the potentcy" of a prewash and their impact on degredation of LSP. Its considerably less of a factor in what wears your LSP. This I have and can demonstrate to you. But its a longer slightly more complex discussion (essentially how you store your car and how much you drive it are much bigger factors, but also abrasion through the contact wash is a factor)
Prices of DIY Detail products in Australia are very high. A bottle of their spray polish is $80aud for 473ml. I can get 1L of Scholl S20 black for the same price. I brought this up with DIY detail and was told that you need much less of their poilsh. Well if thats the case , if i used half as much DIY polish in comparison to Scholl, whats their selling point?
fair point, its very very hard for brands to solve this problem when starting out. BH for example is expensive in the USA. But yes at the same time I think brands have to try and solve this problem if they want to make an impact in foreign markets.
I remember noticing this product in your garage on a previous video. Very informative indeed - I think I will refrain from purchasing. Bilt Hamber is the way forward in my opinion.
Griot’s foaming surface wash does a nice job for me here in the rainy pacific nw. I’d like to know what you think about that product compared to others that you’ve mentioned.
Thanks for doing this video and sharing your knowledge. I’ve learned some things from it. It’s one of the most helpful youtube videos I’ve seen lately.
Jon your a dedicated fella with a great passion for detailing I appreciate your guidance. New products are being developed quite regularly and I would like to ask your advice on products and techniques that have changed over the years . I have just watched your how to video from four years ago of how to detail your car in a safe manner ( you then owned the beautiful red 1 series ) are your opinions and products the same ?or have your techniques and products changed. Basically what is your procedure for doing the same job four years on. Appreciate your opinion.
Basically im getting worse. I tend to wash the cars very very very quick. Foam with touch less. Blast down. Refoam with touch less and contact wash. Then use same single bucket and do wheels last. Then final rinse. I just want it done fast now. I use to spend hours. Now it's like 30 to 60 mins Max.
I use 1-1.5 ounces in the bucket and in my mjjc 3.0s and get thick foam every time. IMO you didn't really mix the product in your Cannon anywhere near enough. They talk about that in some of their videos, with it being a thicker solution, making sure it is properly mixed is everything
Of course it will go to the road of Adam's and chemical guys, it can't do different, they are not manufacturers like Koch Chemie, they can just do it user friendly and fun, like they do. And maybe throw a product like spray compound or ceramic interior
I will also like to say that Its funny how Cultural differences with Foam from shampoo and suds are so far apart! The US and Canada believe foam and suds as a measure of cleaning performance and bulk at the idea of a product that doesn't have thick shaving cream like foam out of their snowfoam lance. We (UK) somehow have ability to understand the exact opposite, that a product like Bilt Hamber Snowfoam has the most powerful cleaning ability without all of the messy and pointless visual effects of foam, its thin but has really really powerful cleaning. Foam is just foam- it does nothing other then look good, it does not lubricate, or lift dirt from the panel as some claim, a wet panel dwelling for 5 minutes is the same as a foam panel wet for 5 minute except gravity typically pulls on the foam after 1 minute rendering the claim of the above pointless. This goes for all foaming products, Foam is not a measure of cleaning power or lubricity. Its just aesthetic! This is not a dig at this product on this video!
Isn't that contradictory to this video though? Cause John seems very focused on having thick shaving cream foam, but I agree with what you say in the 2nd half, foam is not a measure of cleaning power or dwell time. Using the Touchless on the test panel was an interesting choice, because Touchless can't be used for a bucket wash, would have been nice to choose a BH soap that can do both to compare!
First of all buying any DIY detail product in the 500 ml bottles is just plain robbery, buy in the gallon size and the prices are just about the same as any similar product. I also think the way cost is discussed is interesting. I like to watch this channel but yea most of the advice is not that useful because import/export costs skews everything. Recently watched a video on this channel where P&S was described as costly, which ironically is one of the most value oriented brands in the US and conversely Bilt Hamber falls on the expensive side for us despite UK folks finding it good quality for value. That being said i always will shell out for bilt hamber pre washes, but the rest of the bilt hamber line is plain just not worth it, there definitely are quality products available at lower cost.
@veils1de350z Bilt Hamber makes decent products, I'm prepared to spend what it takes to get the best products on my second biggest purchase and protect it no matter what the cost. Everyone has different priorities. My cars surfaces are high on my list.
@@79blustone i have spent thousands on various car care products, but i dont have any specific brand loyalty. I let my experience guide me. Bilt hamber shines in their pre wash capabilities absolutely, its what i use. But when i find that koch chemie or car pro or whatever brand makes the best product in a category i will use that. Just my opinion
First of all John you do not need to apologies for you review! This is why I and the other subscribers are glued to your style and love your content soo much, I believe you reviews are fair and non bias and you are looking for the best at the right price as we all do- you just do it for us basically with good intentions. Mike G is another RU-vidr is based in California who has a very similar approach to product reviews and is not bias towards brands and he is honest and genuine just like yourself. Some of the bigger RU-vidrs promote, promote and promote products making out its the next Holy Grail just for the money and subscribers which ruins and dilutes (excuse the pun, no pun intended) the detailing scene for me, it add a shroud of BS that you need to look past. Anyway, this review was top notch and appreciated your findings, if the import tax was eradicated (in an ideal world) then the price would be more realistic and would be a bit more competitive to the UK/ Euro based brands so in essence taxation plays a part. I really like my wash combo the best which is Carpro reset shampoo as its very strong the cleaning power is like nothing else and when paired up (sounds like a wine pairing at dinner) with Bilt Hamber Touchless- you really have the ultimate cleaning weapons at your disposal like nothing else I have ever tried. I don't think I will ever change from Carpro Reset shampoo/ Bilt Hamber Touchless combo. I would like you to review more from Yvan and Nick I do believe they have some good things going on across the pond, John you should have got Imran to send you a bottle of DIY Ceramic interior detailer as its the first of its kind and I am very interested in this product- a ceramic coating for the inside of the car- all surfaces except glass- what's not to like or try, maybe you'll reconsider...Keep up the amazing work John truly!!
the ceramic interior detailer cant be a true ceramic. A true ceramic would have to be a silane based product. I suspect the interior detailer is a water based SI material of some sort. But Im not sure you can charge 46 pounds for 500ml of interior detailer in UK. not sure, but I like the fact its contravershall because this makes it different and more worth exploring. I think brands need to take risks like this.
@@ForensicDetailing I am attracted to controversy and being different, I thinks its only a years protection (I think) it could well be water based as it needs to cover or coat lots of different types of materials. £46 is pricey, agreed. But its a new opening into a new area of detailing... good things could come off the back of this one, who knows? Watch this space....maybe?
Excellent, informative video, John. Another one fails your/our test. I'll just bite the bullet and go with Bilt-Hamber. Buying something that doesn't work is a waste of money and time. I prefer to pay extra for SOMETHING THAT ACTUALLY WORKS.
Hi Jon really appreciate the longer format deep dive videos. Really helps those of us that want to try every product on the market, but don't have the budget to do it. I would be interested to get your thoughts on drying aids. Particularly if they are a benefit or hindrance to lsp. I do average miles and wash my car every week. My current theory is to use a weak drying aid so not to affect the lsp. Something like Demon shine. I get the safety while drying but it has little affect on the lsp. Thanks Paul.
I love a good drying aid. I use BH QD mixed 1:10 or 1:20 with DI water and you can plaster the car in it and dry it off and you are done. It would never hinder LSP. I just use it as a time saver so I dont have to go back over the car again with detail spray after drying it.
I was under the impression that US isnt big on pre wash snow foams, they market shampoo to do this?. I use a GT shampoo through a lance BUT after my pre wash. BH touchless. Squidlink froth/alkafroth. Thats my two favourites pre washes.
yes its black friday or periodically they do a deal on it. So really thats not a fair comparison. Its normally like 25 quid or something. fair point this.
So glad you tested this, literally watched a video on this by them a few weeks ago and thought, would be great for John to test out their products and here you are!
Thanks for the review Jon. I've been enjoying Suds, the dilution issue aside which they need to make up their minds on! Two questions: on your rant at 12:45 wouldn't 30-60ml actually be 3-6% dilution, not .3-.6? Yvan has mentioned .3 PIR before but that would depend on the pressure washer to calculate right? And the Bilt Hamber Touchless performed like a superhero on that panel test! Is that ok to use for regular maintenance washes as a prewash or is it too strong? Back to Suds, I've been mixing 256:1 just like a Rinseless wash, 1 capful per gallon/4L, simple and easy and based on their previous recommendation a year ago. I think that could be cut to 1oz/30ml (2 capfuls) to 3 gallons/12L which is 400:1, I can't imagine 1000:1 though, that might be based on their two foaming recommendation (foam, rinse, foam again and contact wash) which is important information to convey if so.
Just watching your How To Wash With Bilt Hamber Products video to learn more about Touchless, neat stuff! So in that video you mention using 1:2 Touchless to water in a 750ml lance gives you 2% PIR, so 250ml for 2%, divide 250 by .02 is 12500ml so I assume that's what you measured in the bucket? To get Yvan's 0.3 PIR, 12500 x .003 is 37.5ml, so that's 1.25oz for the Americans, which is roughly what you started with that gave runny foam. At 4oz or 120ml that's 1% PIR to get the foam you were looking for, if I'm doing the math right.
This video has brought up something I would love to be studied by professional smart people, product fetishism vs IRL results. I don't use prewash foamers. I pretreat the paint with DIY rinsless and rinse it off before the contact rinseless and it works great. If I need a more powerful prewash I run DIY All Clean through a pump foamer. I get very clean paint and no scratches. Everyone should use whatever products and techniques they want that makes them happy. Do what you want and I support it. That being said if we start talking this is bad and this is good you get into a realm of confusion and meaningless arguments.
pre washing and rinsing a rinseless wash product is close to a complete waste of time. These rinseless washes do not make good prewash and their degreasing power is very weak. Using the All clean might be better but its designed to be used at 1:15 which is about 6-7% which is about 700ml to 300ml in the lance. Its also about 70£ for 5 litres (convert the 3.7 us gallon thing) That would not be a cost effective product really, in the UK at least. You can get 5 litres of stronger pure surfactant based APC for around 20 quid for 5 litres in the UK. Agree everyone should use whatever they want, dont think anyone ever disagrees with that. But thats not really the job of what this review is there for.
@@ForensicDetailing My thing is that the most cleaning is going to come with the contact wash. When I put rinseless on the paint, let it dewel, and rinse I can see that it has removed the chunky stuff and all that is left is "road film." The contact wash removes that. If strong precleaners like Touchless where actually touchless and did require a contact wash I would pay the high price for it but at the end of the day most scratches happen during drying and the rinseless lubricates that part and is part of the cleaning process.
rinseless does lubricate, but its not a prewash and it does not degrease well. So spraying it on and rinsing it off is like, you put on the lubricant, then you remove the lubricant, then you put it on again for the contact wash. You want as much dirt off from the prewash as possible, if you leave road film on the car to remove with contact then rubbing that abrasive slurry is not good. Its not called touch-less because its a touchless wash. Its called touch-less because you touch your car less when you prewash with it. But yer that name can be a bit confusing. But honestly mate we all do things a little bit different. results are results so if what your doing is working then keep going with it.
I’m looking forward to see if you’ll be reviewing more from this brand as I’ve been watching their content for quite some time now. But, is it just marketing hype? I’ve been looking at them but just seem abit pricey? We all know how saturated it is with all the detailing brands out there now a days and products really need to stand out from the rest to go out and spend the money on otherwise you’ll have 2 different brand of products that essential does the same thing.
It's not marketing hype it's simply what all detailing brands should be doing. Heres my products, here's how you use them, here's loads of tips to get better results. And only a tiny percentage do it. I love the fact DIY detail won't need idiot influencers like me to succeed they will carve their own destiny.
Great video! Have you tried Armor All Ultra Ceramic Glass Treatment & Cleaner 500mL Normally hate armor all and never buy there stuff but was on special for $14 from supercheap normally $25. Its really good and i think i have tried most glass cleaners now i usually get turtle wax clear vue or Gyeon Q²M Glass Cleaner. This armor all stuff removed the water marks off my windscreen and left a slick finish you can feel. downside is i could not get it to bead like soft99 glaco.
Jon i know you've mentioned it in numerous videos (even your previous one about paragon) but can you recreate the wash media test please? maybe test multiple types of mitts and recreate the results you said you saw in the detailer magazine testing? it would making an interesting video and end the debate :) thanks as always!
@@ForensicDetailing I don't think the other reviews are as objective or meticulous as you though Jon! you already have the test panel and all the wash media ready. what happens if you do the test and the results turn out different from the detailers magazine test? i feel like a conventional MF wash mitt glides smoother on the panel than chenille, but perhaps chenille has largest surface area due to each noodle being able to absorb the dirty? food for thought
I dont have the test panels no, Pro Detailers Mag had them. We would have to probably by new ones though they ideally need to be flawless. Its less about how the material used or how it glides. (agree MF glides and feels better than chennile which feel a bit MEH on the panel). I think its more to do with when the MF or woll surface is wet its flatted than a chenille. If you look closly at a noodle it has tiny tiny tiny little strands of MF on each tendril. I think thats got something to do with it. But our test really measures scratching by washing off a dirt simm with heavy dirt in it. normally the pre wash could get that. So all can be used safely. The worse though is synthetic wool. That can marr the surface without dirt invovled sometimes.
@@ForensicDetailing Good morning Jon. Ahh right i see, thanks for clarifying that for me, makes a lot of sense when explained like that. You're right about the feel of chenile on a panel, it does feel very meh but like you say, i believe that each noodle has more room to absorb the dirt rather than a flat mitt (i know they're not flat per se, but when you've got them against a panel) and thats what makes them so safe. just wish more companies made higher quality ones
Thank you Jon, as always another informative and helpful video. Could I ask you something please ? After your previous video, I have purchased soft99 fusso, along with the soft99 mirror wax. What is your go-to solution for removing old wax ? I have BH double speed on for the past 2 years (and I keep it well topped up lol).
Hey Nik, so really you should whizz over the paint with a primer or finishing polish to make really good prep. But you can just wash and clean the paint with BH cleanser fluid or a panel wipe product and put another wax on. I think Gyeon are releasing some sort of strip or prep product which might be cool. I personally like using gyeon primer to prepare the paint, even for a wax which I dont think its intended for.
@@ForensicDetailing Thank you for taking the time to reply Jon, appreciate it. Lots of ppl say panel wipe isopropyl alcohol is the way but then just as many contradict that view. BH Cleanser isn't quite as aggressive, I'll give it a try thanks.
Something is off here. I've used Incredible Suds 30mL in 1L foam cannon with a 900 PSI pressure washer in an MJJC Pro V2 with a 1.4 orifice. I've been getting thicker foam closer to your 2nd go. It's never been as watery as what you got the first time. I wonder if your bottle somehow denatured (eg. froze) during shipping?
the foam produced on the second go is not "incredibly thick" as stated in the product claims. So if thats what your getting thats good but from a review perspective it is not producing the results that are claimed.
Question for you if you don't mind about turtle wax hard shell once ive used this on my car can I use the seal and shine after for more protection anyway great video as usual thanks kk
No US company seems to have any interest in prewash products, it's frustrating. I usually end up purchasing touchless chemicals designed for the car wash industry. Gotta say Yvan is an interesting guy, he says some smart stuff, but I don't trust him. Seems like whatever he's selling is always the perfect product, until he's not. I am surprised at the poor performance of this product, having seen the DIY videos. Either they're using far more than an ounce, or a 1.1 orifice, or both. I suspect the latter. Honestly the 1.1 is ubiquitous here, surprised your pw can't handle it.
Hi, looking for a bit of advice. Just bought a new car and dealer is wanting £600 for GardX. Would a good polish/wax be just as good if so can you recommend a good alternative
you probably dont want the strongest. You want a non caustic, pure surfactant based one. I recomend BH touchless. If I didnt use that I would prolly use one from bonnymans that costs about £4.75 for 5 litres.
