Did you know... if you cut the top of the barrel 1inch below the top rim, (around the circumference .Just let the rim be your saw guide, ) then cut a 2 inch ring off the cut end of the barrel, the top will drop right in the barrel for a lid.
I put a bleeder valve inline at the end of a nipple run, basically a 90 or T with and extender (1") and a threaded cap. This way when initially filling the system, you can bleed the air out of the system noting that hydrolic pressure works best when there are no air bubbles making the pump work more effectively. Tully River Quail Co
You might want to look into the plastic tank de-icers since you’re using a plastic barrel. I believe the one you got is meant for metal stock tanks. Also you are supposed to add a grounding rod near the barrel and drape a wire into the water to ground the water along with a GFCI outlet.
Additionally, the $65 stock tank deicer is over a kilowatt if I recall, so way way too much power for this application. That said, I'm doing something very similar - so good luck.
Look not trying to bust balls here and anything I say is NOT meant to insult or demean your work. I don't hold back and I give honest opinions and suggestions. First and most important. DO NOT USE WASHING MACHINE HOSES. Most of them say they are not meant for drinking water. You need to use hoses that are meant for potable water. Put the system inside the coop. You have plenty of room. in the winter the warmth in the coop helps to not let the water freeze. It also does not let direct sunlight hit it directly and that keep algae from growing in your tank. Use Apple Cider Vinegar all year during the winter months use Food Grade Propylene Glycol Antifreeze. It is meant for this sort of stuff. Never use large pipe to drill the holes for the nipples. Use 3/4" or 1/2" irrigation pipe risers, threaded tees and plugs. Always use the 5/16' drill recommended and Use a proper pipe tap. Drill and tap the plus not the pipe. Do a few extra so it there is ever a time you need to replace one all you do is take the plug out and replace with another. Fix the old one and save for later. You don't need teflon tape if you properly tap. You actually were putting the teflon tape on wrong. Go with the treads not against. Invert your tank. there is no need to drill any holes into the tank if you do that. I can provide images. Use a hot water heating elements. Use a stainless steel pipe nipple and a union for the housing and put it inline. NEVER use the pump to PUSH water through the nipple manifold. Those nipples have springs and are meant to handle low gravity water pressure. Put the pump at the end to suck the water out. Put irrigation filters before putting out water to the manifold and after the pump. In your case and even if you use the 3/4" pipe, always use clean out adapters and plugs at both ends. Never glue/cement the plugs. That way you can run a string through with a rag tied to it and pull the string through to clean it out.
@AztecWarrior69 We are about to build this system, and it would be ideal to incorporate your suggestions from the start. For those without a mechanical / plumbing background, would you please create a video showing images of each suggested change? Thank you. Also what is the correct ratio of propylene glycol to water?
@@kimkeaton1806 I will try and make a video but it is cold out. LOL. I have two videos that show the same system but on a chicken tractor. They are called. "Chicken Tractor watering system walk around" and "Chicken Tractor Water System Explanation and DEMO" look those two up and comment there. I will upload pix of the process and link to them there. "Also what is the correct ratio of propylene glycol to water?" I can not give you that answer. It all depends on the recommended ratio that the manufacture gives. It is not like apple cider vinegar, where it is a safe bet to put two ounces per gallon and if you add more it still good. So you have to look for the product and download the datasheet or call the manufacture before purchase. If you sent me the link of the one you intend to buy I will look up the information for you.
@@AztecWarrior69 Thank you for your response. I’ll watch your two videos as suggested. Appreciate that. No worries / rush on another video outlining your suggestions on Kakadoodle’s system - besides the arctic wave being no joke this year, it may not be necessary once I see your two videos. 😊 The propylene glycol that we have is manufactured by Bluewater Chemgroup. It is food grade. I’ll look up their datasheet and hopefully will understand it.
@@gailmulcahey9455 They should have put the whole thing INSIDE. The warmth in the coop makes the whole system work much less. Plus if they don't add any vinegar to the water, that drum will get full of algae
Thanks for this video I’ve been looking into a similar design. If you haven’t already, consider replacing your outlet for the submersed heater with a GFCI for some added safety.
We started out with those nipples and kept having to change them out too frequently. Recommend either the cups with the flow shut off or the gravity fed nipples. We haven’t had to change it any of these as of yet. They both seem to work a lot better than the side nipples.
Yeah… my ducks kept DESTROYING the springs on those red nipples. Literally in minutes. The cups and bowls both sit horizontally, no need to rotate anything.
I came here to correct you, but apparently to some it’s called tape. We always call it pipe strap/hanging strap. Plumber’s tape (to us) is teflon tape/sealant tape. Now I know another name for it. 😂
I just put together 600 foot of irrigation line and some of the typical fittings are hard to come by right now due to shortage. Sometimes you gotta use what you can find, I ended up using mostly blue-lock fittings and PE, it turned out better without needing all the glue.
What I thought you were going to do, was cut slots in the 2" pipe, and then circulate the water from the barrel through the pipe and back with the 12v pump. Plus, use a single battery and solar panel to run the pump. Circulating water doesn't freeze.
This was the best setup and quality of content that I was able to find ANYWHERE. I followed almost all of your ideas for the equipment to use. I just installed everything and have yet to add water to test the functionality, but just wanted to say thank you for the content. If I could give you more thumbs up, I’d give you more. One question I do have is have you had any issues with the nipples losing their seal overtime and leaking with having a “pressurized system”? Not exactly pressurized, but more so than gravity fed. I was contemplating adding some silicone or hot glue on the backs of them for a water seal and to hold them in place with still being able to replace them if I need to.
Your product Amazon list is incorrect just FYI. The tee says 1/8 when it needs to be 1/2, and the brass fitting that goes to the pump links to a 3/4" male to 1/2' male but needs to be 3/4" male to 1/2" female. Just so you and anyone else knows.
@@Kakadoodle they free range all day We don't have a predator issue so their gate is always open so they get water whenever. Thinking about adding a pond to their area thoes I'm tired of stepping in chicken poop lol
It’s said that using those watering nipples, your chickens will drink 30% less water. Don’t know exactly how true that is but it might be worth checking.
We just bought a 65 gallon water tank from menards this past summer.... And we are going to be setting up pretty much the same principle that you have this going...
@@ryanlevron1972 thank you. Just set up my barrel today, going to begin setting up the pump, water hose, and pvc drinking bar tomorrow. Probably won’t use it until it’s done freezing outside because my birds are only 6 days old but atleast I’ll be ready
@@leemikle2242 We live in Wyoming.....were just now at the tail end of winter, We are planning to dispatch our older flock and get a bunch of new birds in within the next month or so...
@@ryanlevron1972 we live in central Wisconsin sitting here wondering why we choose to deal with this crap weather season after season. But yeah my plan is to raise these birds for 2 years start a new batch and then swap out…
Use a step drill for your nipple holes. I always seat the nipples with a glue gun, especially when using smaller diameter (1/2") pvc. Never a leak and if using vertical nipples, the nipple can be replaced without removing the base that's glue-gunned in. (The whole unit could be removed if necessary with a heat gun to reheat the thermoplastic glue).
Glue gun? NO. The best thing to do is use the proper drill bit 5/16" and tap it with the proper tap. AND use tees and plugs. Drill and tap the plugs not the pipe.
BTW anyone who tell you to put hot glue on ANY type of plumbing job should NOT be listened to about any type of lumbung. If they don't know how to do something right and turn around and tell others how to do it wrong, then you shouldn't take anything they say seriously.
@AztecWarrior69 this is a non pressurized system. Obviously using plumbers tape when treaded fittings are used is the correct method for "plumbing". Using hot glue to secure the nipple housing when inserting it directly into a plastic container is you can develop a all thickness of material and prevent rotation. Of course, you are welcome to your opinion as along as we are permitted to continue with our successful methods.
Is there an update on this video? I've tried many things to keep my birds water from freezing and none of them have worked. This is a technique I haven't tried and would like to know how it turned out before I jump in buying more stuff.
Great description and construction! Only question I have is will the water continue to keep the pipe full when the pump isn't running? Assuming the barrel is higher than the pipe for gravity feed I'd imagine.
Ahh. That is a good idea. I think the idea behind the water bar is to keep the water moving. But I suppose you could just put a pump in there as well to circulate the water. 🤔
I've seen the barrel application and the thought there is that the nipples extend into the warm barrel water preventing freezing so you don't need the pump and circulation you need in the pipe method. The question I have is what happens if you have a leaking nipple that needs replacing? Are you emptying a drum mid winter to dry it and replace one leaking nipple?
@@salmonhunter7414 LOL My level of coordination = Klutz extraordinaire. I would manage something nobody ever thought of I'm sure but very good to know you don't need to empty the whole thing :)
Thanks for the video. I’m getting all your listed materials together and have rewatched your video a couple times but you didn’t show how you ran the clear tubing back into the water barrel. How do you hold that tube in place? Thanks for your help. 😉
I drilled a hole near the top of the barrel, and just had friction holding the return tube there. But make sure that tube is not clear! Ours ended up getting algae from the sun.
@@Kakadoodle thanks for your reply. I already bought the clear tubing from your list. But if it ends up a problem I can change it out. My system is going to be smaller than yours so not so much tubing being used and it is more out of the sun I think
@@suemarkham9232 place some copper in water tank no algae My dad used it he had 2000 chickens at one time This fellas system something like my pops (Fighting roosters way back )
Thanks for the video. My hose from barrel to pump leaks where it is connected to the pump. The threads are sealed, but the hose leaks where hose connects to its threaded connector as if pressure was too high. I have tried a few hoses so it is not a defective hose. This leak happens both when pump is on and off. Any suggestions how to resolve this would be greatly appreciated.
It leaks through the sealed threads? I had a problem with it leaking there as well, so I emptied/dried it, then put some silicone caulk around it. That seemed to do the trick.
confused. How did you keep the barrel from freezing? Was that an electric heater like we use to keep our horse's water from freezing? & ...Can I wrap plumbing "heat tape" around my summer waterer and accomplish the same thing? ... New chicken family, sorry for sounding frustrated :(
A very nice vid, and Lots of useful information, the chicken nipples are of interest, if you repeated the build, would you use the same nipples? I am currently fabricating an auto watering system, much like your project. I’m in the Northeast, so heated , and circulation is included in the plan. The water would be located outside in the run area, you mentioned ice dams, how did you resolve that issue? Thanks
I'm giving it another try using these - www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/backyard-barnyard-pvc-poultry-nipple-kit-6-pk-bbpvcnip6 - to see if that helps with the leaking and ice dams. I just had to chisel them away last winter.
Looking to do something similar here in central WI...where are you located approximately, and wondering what your coldest temps are in the winter. Thanks!
We’re just outside of Chicago. We had some ice dams build up last winter from where the nipples dripped after the chickens drank from them. I’d also use a dark barrel and hose to prevent algae growth.
Thanks for the video. How is it working after a few months of use? My wife has asked me to construct something similar. She has Ducks also. Do you think it would work if I chaged the nipples with the cups?
Hey Chris. Thanks for watching! So far it's working well! And I do think it would still work with cups instead of the nipples. Let me know how it turns out!
Ya. That’s correct. But, if that clears host is going to be exposed to the sun, I’d recommend getting a colored house (ours was and algae was a problem)
We have 30 laying hens and some younger chicks. We have to dump out and refill the water often (probably should be done once a week) being that it’s in the sun. Probably the biggest drawback of this setup.
@@Kakadoodle exactly my thoughts! I've built a summer setup waterbar and now have to adapt/re-engineer for winter. Tips for all: use blue barrels and wrap with black plastic, keep out of direct sunlight (North side for Northern hemisphere), use solid/light protection on hose/tubing (your clear tubing is a mold magnet, make draining and filling processes accessible. More importantly, keep water/moisture out of the coop. Hope this helps!
I didn’t really. Using the vertical nipples seems to work a little bit better. Because it drops straight down. And it’s also about the height of the water bar. You need to make sure that the chickens need to stretch their necks up and drink at about a 45° angle. That seems to help. But nothings perfect.
Our bucket isn’t high enough to gravity feed. And I do keep the pump on in the summer to keep the water moving. Not sure if that’s the right thing to do?
@@Kakadoodle This was my question too, if the barrel is higher than the pipe, will it gravity feed with the pump in the line but off? That's the one piece I have confusion about. I am prepping for upstate NY winter chickens and already know I don't want to haul water 2-3 times a day but I didn't want to burn pumps out either if I can help it :)
We used this one. It works really well. bayite BYT-7A014A DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM www.amazon.com/dp/B01FXDUQR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZVXRJHZVVC3E1HTBSVK0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
