DIY heated enclosure for 3d printer

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This video presents my 3d printer enclosure and shows the first part of my project - implement chamber temperature control, remote Start / Stop of the printer and Auto Shutdown after the print job is finished. I relay on OctoPi with its Enclosure Plugin - a great tool for monitoring and total control over the print job, the 3d printer and its enclosure.
Download OctoPrint: octoprint.org/
Structure of the heated 3d printer enclosure:
Sides from 10 mm thick polycarbonate sheet, with edges cut at 45 degrees, attached with cheap brackets used in furniture manufacturing. This material has excellent thermal properties - no physical deformation up to 130°C and low thermal conductivity that helps keeping heat inside longer (less power consumption). Compared to other solutions it is more expensive and heavier.
Control and electrical system:
The controlling device is Raspberry Pi 3 or 4 with OctoPrint and Enclosure Plugin. If you don’t need video processing and timelapse functionality Raspberry Pi 2 will also do.
Get it on Amazon: amzn.to/2RvanxW (affiliate link)
The temperature sensor:
I use DS18B20 - cheap and reliable 1-wire sensor, supported natively by RPi on pin 4.
It has 3 pins - Ground, 3.3 V and Data (the data pin is connected to pin 4). It needs 4.7 kOhms pull-up resistor connected between the 3.3V (Vcc) and the Data pins. You also need to write in the RPi’s configuration file located at /boot/config.txt the following line: dtoverlay=w1-gpio
For more information and setting-up other temperature probes check the plugin github page at github.com/vit...
Get it on Amazon: amzn.to/2uEn549 (affiliate link)
For the power switching devices, there are several options, depending on how silent you want your enclosure to be:
Option 1 (my current setup):
- Interface (intermediary) small SSR relays (2A) for switching AC loads. These can be controlled directly by the Raspberry pins and are used to command more powerful switching devices (that can not be run directly by the Raspberry).
Amazon: ex. amzn.to/38Lnyka (affiliate link), but many other options are possible
- Industrial 3-phase contactors. These are robust devices, mainly used to control motors. Their rating (nominal current) is normally given for AC-3 operation (motor control), however when used for resistive loads (AC-1 operation mode), they can switch much higher current. For example, 9 A contactor for AC-3 can switch 20 A in AC-1. They have life expectancy of about 100000 switching operations before one contact fails and I have connected all 3 contacts to switch just one phase.
Amazon: amzn.to/2U1LviO (for US - 120V coil) or amzn.to/2O5pyvE (220V coil)
Pros: cheap, reliable, no heating issues like with power SSRs.
Cons: Noisy switching
Option 2 (noiseless setup with solid state power relays):
- The same interface relays are used;
- The heater and the printer are switched On/Off by 10A or 25A (recommended) SSRs with AC control.
Amazon: ex. amzn.to/30Wzgpf (affiliate link), but many other brands are possible.
Pros: cheap (if chineese), noiseless
Cons: need radiators to dissipate heat
I think the best option is a mix - standard industrial contactor for the printer (toggles only once per print) and AC controlled SSR for the heater. That is what I will implement next, in order to have silent operation.

Опубликовано:

28 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 23

@reidn5185 2 года назад

Every once and a while, I’ll come across small awesome channels. Yours is one of them! I love the longer, less scripted videos where you’re just talking about the process and the different considerations you’ve made. I know this is an old video as you’ve moved to vorons, but its still valuable nonetheless.

@user-xb5zu6zu7j 3 года назад

Such a good channel. I got the polycarbonate sheet for heated bed you recommended in one of your videos and it works like a dream with ABS and everything else. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!

@tristanscott4118 2 года назад

There is so much valuable information in this video. Thank you so much for making this. I am going to emulate your wiring setup for my enclosed Ender 5 Plus. May change up the heater setup though.

@damiencutrupi4411 3 года назад

Good work, you have done well with your English as well

@christophkiefer 2 года назад

Hi Thanks for the great video. I am currently building an enclosure for my printer. One of the challenges I try to solve is even heat distribution in actively heated enclosure. What are your thoughts for the following questions? How can the airflow in an enclosure be optimized so that there is an almost even temperature everywhere inside the enclosure? The airflow can be enforced with an additional fan/blower but would that, in turn, harm/disrupt the running print? Would an exhaust and intake air filtration system help to circulate the air and to establish not only a cleaner air but also better distribution of the hot air? If yes, where would you place the exhaust and intake pipes? Is there an optimal position for the active heater? Any feedback is highly appreciated. Thx!

@3dpblog 2 года назад

Hi, I had many of these questions myself. I cant give you opinion on exhaust-intake system, but here are my considerations why I didnt implement ventilation inside the enclosure. Inside fan, probably mounted in the top part of the enclisure, would help to get faster even air temp. However it will create airflow and I can not assess how it would influence an ABS (or other temp sensitive filament) - probably wont matter much bcz the airflow down to the print would be weak. Without a fan there will be stratification - hot air on top, cooler air below. Reality however was that the air in the enclosure gets almost evenly hot everywhere, because the enclosure is relatively small. I also think the heater should be in the bottom part of the enclosure, so when the hot air travels up it will heat the cooler air volumes arround. The enclosure just above the heater should be resistent enough to the heat from this hot airflow (or isolated with heat resistent/reflective folio)

@ce5903 2 года назад

This is a great video! I built an insulated enclosure out of a old dryer machine. Currently using heatgun to heat enclosure but it is noisy and not efficient. Are you able to provide link showing where you got 500w heater? Seems like a very good option. Not finding anything similar on amazon.

@gabrielury6 4 года назад

hi friend, your enclousure is amasing, increbly secure hey what kind of acrilic sheet you are using for your enclousure ?? you think 3mm wil handle ?

@lukasmatzinger 3 года назад

Nice enclosure build, How warm does the outside get when it’s 70 degrees C inside? Not sure if I should use PC sheet or insulated composite panels. Thanks!

@user-xb5zu6zu7j 3 года назад

I consider exactly the same setup. I think I'll go with the PC sheet.

@gizmobowen 4 года назад

Ivan, what do you think of the idea of using an old printer controller board for this? I fried a stepper motor chip on my Ender 3 so I had to replace it. Since the heater is similar to the heated bed, I was wondering if I could add an SCR and then connect it to a heater and control it with that board using Marlin. I kind of like this option since it has the PID function for getting the temperature to stay nice and constant. I'm not an electrical guy so something like this would be out of my range but I can imagine a smart guy like yourself could investigate this idea.

@3dpblog 4 года назад

I see. I dont think I'll go deep in investigating this option, but it seems perfectly doable. You need a supported termistor to hook in the board (where the termistor of the bed was connected), then to connect the output for the bed to a 10A SSR (enough for 500W). But to control the temperature you'll need either to hook up a display, or to use octoprint or another software interface to connect to the board via USB. With this option though you cant have a deadband, (unless there is a way to set it in Marlin). It means your heater will switch On and Off frequently to maintain the reference temperature steady (not as frequently as if it was heating a bed, because the volume of the enclosure provides some inertia). Depending of the quality of you heater it may die faster.

@gizmobowen 4 года назад

@@3dpblog I thought that if you used the thermistor off the hot end that would work ok. And yes I agree you'd need a display but if you have some broken printers and bits laying around it seems like it could be a fun way to repurpose the parts. In Marlin I would suspect that only a very small section of it would be needed to provide control over just the heater (no jerk, acceleration or motor controls, etc.) I have my printer in an enclosure and would like to add heating to it but since I'm not really an electrical guy I'll probably wait until there's an aftermarket system available. Wham Bam has recently mentioned that they were working on one so when it comes out I'll check it out. Thanks for showing how you set up your system. It looks very well thought out.

@sabaubogdan6997 3 года назад

Dude. You went just a bit overboard with the electrinics. Frankly i would too slap on everything an industrial contactor because they're badass. But you made the enclosure out of acrylic so that's a big no no. Look at 4-10 k euro printers. They have insulated steel enclosures with glass windows. This acrylic crap doesn't keep the heat well enough. It just looks fancy.

@3dpblog 3 года назад

It is not acrilic but polycarbonate. Theoretically it can go up to 120 C without deformation and I go up to 80 C when printing pure PC. It works since 4 years now, so ...

@danp762 4 года назад

Very Cool. Have you printed anything structural in there? How strong are the parts? I'm going to build something similar. If, i only need 40 to 45 degrees C enclosure temp to get strong parts that would great. The pros are using of 70 degrees C to print ABS. At that temp, I think special high temp stepper motors or stepper motors with water cooling are needed.

@3dpblog 4 года назад

No structural parts were printed, becase the metal components I used cost almost nothing and on the other hand at the time I built it I was just getting into the stronger hi-temp filaments. What is expensive here is the PC sheet. If you need just 45 C (which for me is perfect for ABS) you can go with thiner PC sheet (like 3-4 mm) and use some 2020 extrusions to fix them. I think I saw such designs on thingiverse.

@3dpblog 4 года назад

About the motors - my steppers are handling well 3-4 hours prints at 65-70 C (PC filament) with just air cooling with heatsinks. Didnt test for longer prints, as normally I print quick parts from this filament. :)