I too wish I could upload a picture. Mine's just getting assembled, staining and verathane to follow. I used the fancy router bit to cut out the handles because I was simply not brave enough to use a Skil saw, but I did trim the ends with a skill saw and then finished them off with a jig saw versus a Japanese pull saw. Took me a really long time to build it though, a month of weekends and a few mistakes along the way, but I am finally there. Thank you Charlie Spitzack!
I did a modified version for my shed loft. Took me an afternoon....very happy with the result. Thanks for the video. Very helpful....particularly the step template and the router bit with the bearings up top.
Just built one for my garage loft, super easy to build and is so stable and strong. I finished it in linseed oil with a darker stain on the treads to hide dirt. Thanks Charlie.
I just built one to get easy access to my loft storage space over my work area in the shop. Had to special order the pattern router bit (Whiteside brand are really nice ones) but found everything else locally. Turned out super nice and I’ll be attaching it to at loft with hinges and will raise/lower the bottom out of the way with an electric winch. Thank you for the inspiration.
Well done!! Thank you. I built a cabin with 2 lofts- one in each end. This ships ladder is perfect- either a moveable version or one in either loft. Here in Canada, we can use Robertson screws instead of Torx...
I like the integrated hand rails. Wonderfull seeing a longer in detail video from NTS feat. Charlie. ( Hi Spitz :-) Looking forward the next. Kind regards MB
It's really hard to put a solid release date on a video like that! Just waiting for the right Off-TV build to happen so we can document it properly! Keep hassling us, the more times people ask the bigger priority it becomes ;). We are so happy to hear from people that WANT to see us release content.
Thank you for this great video. I was able to build the entire ladder utilizing your RU-vid video. I would upload a picture if I could. Thanks again Spitz!!
Spitz, This ships ladder video was so helpful! I can't wait for Dustin to see it! We are building a home in Utopia that we will use this ladder in. Be Blessed! Art
Great video, using your design to get up to my roof. I know you probably use a mask when not videoing....but a word of advice from a 64 yr old with COPD due to sawdust.....wear one. 😉
Awesome instructions. I really found this helpful so far. I'm not sure if I must use a plunge router. I might need to buy one :-) which is awesome. I'm still feeling shy about the plunge cuts with the circular saw. I have a couple side winder circular saws. But, I see the man using a worm-drive circular saw. In my mind, this seems like a more stable power tool for these internal cuts. I might need to buy one of those too. Thanks. I'm having a blast!
Why do you need a 16 foot length of 2x12 when the longest dimension is 12 foot, 4 and 1/8 inches. Could I not use a 14 foot piece instead? Or a 12 foot piece with 5 inches glued onto it's end? I like your work though.
What a great vid. Exactly what I needed to see! I'm contemplating building a ships ladder very similar to this, but it doesn't need to be anywhere near as wide. Also, weight is an issue. Would 1" x 12" x 12' stringers (and matching 1" x 6" pads) out of poplar be strong enough if the width is about 18" from outer edge of the stringers? Wife is small and needs to be able to move it a bit. All help appreciated!
I am confused about the plunge router bit. I am using 1 1/4" oak for the sides of my ladder and 1" thick wood for the steps. I got a 3/4" plunge router bit with a top bearing and did a test run on a scrap and I used a 3/8" edge bit and rounded over the edges of my first step. They do not fit together. Didn't you mean that I should use a 3/8" plunge router bit? Then I started looking for a 3/8" plunge router bit and I simply can't find one that is 5/8" deep. The one that I found is only 1/2" which means I will have to do every single plunge twice to achieve the 5/8" depth. Also, I read that it is going to be hard on my 3/8" bit to do all that plunge work (esp. with oak) so I am going to do it with the 3/4" bit and just cleanup the corners with the 3/8" bit - which means I have to do every one three times. Once with the 3/4" bit and then twice with the 3/8" bit. I am using a router with a 1/4" shank. Should I be doing all of this with a 1/2" shank given that I am using oak?
That'd be great! I've got limited experience using construction lumber where you can almost drive the screws in as far as you want. This might be a game changer, haha
Is it possible to make alternating steps with this design? If so could you give some details on how to go about the process if trying to use your original video as a guide?
12:01 Those 4" screws are quite long. Is there any way to make sure you screw it in parallel to the steps? I kinda think i'll screw it tilted and it ends up popping out.
I have a 16 x24 x17’3 steel building,therefore no rafters, beams, etc. I have a 10ft high loft that is 16x12 and another section connected at a “L” shape that is 6x12. The only area that does not have the loft is where my garage door is. I am wanting to add in a staircase for access, but am needing it to fold up. I am looking at using rails that are 6ft for top section and 8 ft for bottom section, therefore stair length measure of 14ft. So 10ft rise and approx. 9.8ft run. Does this sound acceptable as I don’t want too steep as I want to carry stuff up the stairs without needing a handrail, or would a shorter staircase work better. I do not have a railing on the loft as this is in garage and will only be used for storage. Would you be able to assist me with some plans and measurements. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Jason, we have ships ladder plans available here: store.beinatree.com/products/signature-ships-ladder-plan And they are designed to accommodate different dimensions. Although a 10ft/9.8ft rise/run would put your ladder angle at about 45 degrees, which i've never seen done before. We also would never recommend carrying stuff up a ships ladder with no hand rail, especially one at such an angle!
Now that I've watched the entire video, and backed up on a few sections, I have a few recommendations. You're calling this an intermediate project, but then adding in things that an intermediate level woodworker may not have, or doesn't have the experience in using. Specifically, plunge saws aren't really an intermediate tool - especially at that size. Mine, for example, won't cut through 2" thickness, if I recall correctly. (That tells you how much I use it). Instead, use the router with a large bit. That'll make a clean hole (even if you have to use it twice per stringer, flipping it once to cut from both sides). You then used a rather expensive flat saw, which most woodworkers won't have bothered with buying. If you need to clean up a round cut, rather than using a hand chisel (which is a basic tool), I would be using a rasp. (Using the router would obviate (remove), the need for cleaning up that connection anyway, plus no longer needing the flat saw). At the end, you show cleaning up the wood glue, but don't mention that if you plan to stain or lacquer the ladder, you'll need to sand the areas where the glue has been smeared so that the stain/lacquer will soak in. That should be obvious to even a basic builder, but this is a rough instruction video. For the fasteners? Rather than pushing a specific brand (which I realize you're probably paid to show), suggest the head type and length. As was stated in another post, in Canada, Robertson (square drive) head is as common, or more common, than Torx/star. I can even buy bugle head or round head pocket screws (Deckmate and Kreg Brand) through Home Depot, even in Houston. I personally prefer Robertson to Torx. In a few places, the user may only be able to get Phillips. Edit - the outro volume is much lower than the main video. It was very hard to hear.
Thanks very much for this video! It inspired me to add two of these ladders to my kids' treehouse. They really like the ladders, and I really like the fact that there is always a handle for them to grab onto. Here's the treehouse I built - how did I do? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SVxCeSqepnE.html
While I appreciate the attention to detail, especially when describing the mirror aspect of the stringers, I would suggest that you don't use abbreviations and short forms of description of what you're working with. Since this is instructions, you shouldn't assume that someone actually knows that 'doug fir' is 'Douglas fir'. (it doesn't even save you time to shorten it!)
The video does not address the ravages that Mother Nature will have on the beautifully sanded wood stair. The lumber used are very expensive since they are very wide and relatively long. Tools used are in the advanced craftsman range, so not in the shop of even most experienced craftsmen. The width of the stair is okay for adults BUT not suitable for kids, AND the riser height probably also too high for kids. Other than these obvious things, fairly good video.
That wood is cheap. The tools are basic (anyone that builds much with wood will have a palm router, table saw, and miter saw). The rails are just fine. Any human old enough to climb that ladder could reach them and would also have no problem with the step spacing. As for weather, use common sense. If exposed to elements, obviously it will need to be treated, at the very least, or upgraded to cedar. But I'd envision this as a ladder that's on the interior of a tree house, or underneath the main structure and thus not exposed to rain.
