Dig 30 cm deep about 10 cm wider than the patio you want. Compact in 5 cm of base stone. Cement in border stones. Compact in 17 cm of base stone. Top with 5 cm of 3 - 5 stone drawn flat. Lay 3 cm pavers. Fill with quartz sand.
I use 25 cm borders, so you have to go a bit deeper. You always end up driving something on it. You will be mad as hell if it sinks, so overbuild it. Don't know why I said 3 cm pavers. 3 cm is for natural stone, but pavers are about 6 cm
+Rob Harrison Yes. They are normally heavy even if they are small. You need a compactor with 20 newton - meters of compacting force, but almost all of them are.
What are the rocks called in 3:31? I am completely new to this world of DIY and I couldn't catch what he called it. An accurate answer would be much appreciated. :)
+Arige S The rocks are screened. For this job, it could be 0 - 32 mm. That means they have a 32 mm screen and everything 32 mm or smaller falls through.
+michael cannock Well I'm not saying it wouldn't last, however cement goes off a lot quicker than lime as you may know. Most people don't want to wait weeks/months to walk on their patio.
The slab of concrete will choke the weeds out. If there were gaps in the concrete or you put the pavers directly on the gravel you'd have to lay down a membrane.
So in this video you say you use sharp sand in the list of materials. But for the mortar mix you say you use building sand to lay the patio on and sharp sand isn't mentioned again throughout the video. I have used building sand for the majority of my project (which actually is a lot easier to work with) but actually everyone else I have asked have told me I should use sharp.
Too much work. we now screed on one inch conduit or the like. Compaction is key then gravel that holds form and binds together, then a bed of stone dust to allow discernment of intellectual compository properties the variance of forgiveness and akin to steel and metals. In other words, build your base , compact. Build another base of gravel, compact. Bed of dust with pitch and polymeric sand. um, right?
Also,a five to one pointing mix is too weak, especially when they recommend it to be mixed semi-dry.Should be a three to one wet mix. Maybe the idea is that it will be easier to lift and relay should you decide to do the job properly.
or maybe they are considering that a weaker mix is more flexible and less likely to crack with movement (which there always will be). Stop being a hero and go a lay some bricks.
3:1 mix would be too brittle. Personally I do a 4:1 mix (3 sharp, 1 soft), bit of Feb, and back butter the slabs with cement slurry, which is permeable
