Two of the key points that you made were the importance of a common ground and suggestion to use a lower Device Resolution setting in the USB Capture configuration in Hyperion.
@@GodIsBackAtAnfield I did the project finally I’m actually now trying to find a splitter with 2 outs and multiple ins and how to get Yeelight bulbs to work with this project
I have a hyperion set up that I made, and the thing that surprised me about this video is the use of the Arduino. My Raspberry Pi does all of the LED controlling, no need for the Arduino.
I believe the specification for the LED's is that the data and power signals should be 5V. My guess is that this is why the arduino is in the mix, to provide 5V logic. However it has been demonstrated that the strips can work with 3.3V logic (which is also the Pi's pin voltage levels), although it is easier for them to become unreliable on long runs due to voltage drop. However in this case, with there is already a 5V supply, so if 5V where needed because the 3.3v from the Pi didn't work, it would be enough to achieve this by replacing the arduino with mosfets.
If you don't see "baudrate" when selecting the led hardware, change your your settings level (wrench icon) to advanced. This was blocking my leds from firing up. It flashed on changes but didn't react on the hdmi source. Great tutorial btw!
Wish I had known that. I set the log to debug and saw that by default it was communicating on 115200. Didn't know that setting to advanced would do that - I just went back and edited the Nano in the web editor with the baudrate and then mine worked.
Amazing Project. I don't know much about Raspberry Pi but this tutorial was awesome and walked me through everything. It only took me 3 hours to get through this and have the back lights ive always wanted on the back of my tv. Thank you
Finally a project that just worked. I had a small problem talking to the knock off Arduino and had to enable advanced options to set the baud rate. I thought I could get away with no common ground, but once I soldered that we were money! Subscribed!
I had a problem building a second one of these for a relative after building one that worked first time for me. The problem was that no leds light if the number of LED was > 255 My strip was 230 - worked fine, the one I built but wouldn't work was 285 leds long. I only traced the issue by swapping 2 nanos, the one with 285 wouldn't light leds, the 230 one would in the same system. I think the problem is in line 95 of the nano code for (uint8_t i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { setting i to be uint8_t limits it to 255, so it cannot set more leds, by changing this line to for (uint16_t i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { that limitation is removed, and my led strip now lights and the loop can set led strings longer than 255 leds Hope that helps someone - and thanks to Steve for very clear instructions
You don’t need aurdino , raspberry pi have a Pwm pin and spi pin , you can connect the data pin from the strip to the pwm or spi and choose 2812bspi or pwm in Hyperion ...
Absolutely great tutorial. Not too tricky for those who have experience with Raspberry Pi and Arduino, but I think even a novice could follow along and be successful.
An old Xbox 360 power brick is cheaper and smaller. Check one out to use for things like this. They have 5v and 12v out and would probably give more than enough amps for the whole project. Looks really good though.
Hey Steve , I needed this updated version, I did this awhile ago and it was annoying ticketing with the software, now it's web based it's more better and seeing the review is awesome. I had a go at it yesterday and with trial and error I finally got it to work, I had to use another sketch through as the one I used of yours didn't work, but mine works. Great tutorial.
@@AirZeee hey Stewart sorry for the lateness, I got my sketch from "the mad scientist" if you go on my page and see one of my videos the link to his page is on there..
I really appreciate you showing everything. About the power supply though... Some don't have color coded cables. Also, yes you'll need to bridge the connector or get an adapter that does it for you... This is all fine. What might not be fine though is that a lot of power supplies don't deliver an appropriate amount of voltage and amperage on the 5v rail if there is no draw on the 12 volt rail. Also, depending on the number of leds you may need to introduce power half way in between as well as at the end.
Brilliant video! Watched it to get an idea of how complex it is and I’m pleasantly surprised at how simple you made it look! One question I do have is regarding the PC power supply as I’m unsure how exactly you fit a usb to it? Would love to see a video explaining the power supply and install of the USB! Also not sure about the common ground thing?
the only challenge might be running the pwm signal and the video capture on a single core... I'm not sure if this can be overcome thou... An ESP-32 should certainly work
@@modellking yeah, IT probably depends on available libraries and stuff. I'm almost certain it's physically possible, but I don't know much about software behind
So i got it working, couple things to note that may help others: 1.) I used the nano clones (the first link recommended on Steve's github) but when writing to it, I had to choose ATmega328P; the first one in the list. NOT the bootloader. When trying bootloader, I got errors when trying to write to it 2) Maybe its obvious but took me a while. If you are using MORE than 110 leds, you must change that number on line 4 of the sketch. I opted to buy the led strip he recommended, but with 2x the LED's and couldent figure out why only about half the strip would light up. Was about to rip it off the tv when I realized I needed to change the number in the sketch (as well as Hyperion of course)
You could save money by replacing the Pi Zero with a Pi 3B+ and use the GPIO pins to control the LEDs. That allows you to ditch the Arduino and the USB hub. You can also get a pass-through capture card that will eliminate the need for a HDMI splitter like this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B088Q8H4LT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_rekFFbMH666E5
Folks who are watching this need to take HDCP into account. There's a reason that people use HDMI -> Composite converters and composite USB capture hardware, and it's because of HDCP. For example, if you play using a FireTV or any other HDCP device, these cheap HDMI capture devices won't work. The setup that it seems is most common is HDMI -> composite converter -> composite capture. Resolution is bad, but colors are OK. Be sure to look at chipsets. I'm testing with UTV007 but can't confirm it's "best" but look at compatibility for sure with linux and make sure you're buying the right hardware. Also, I think the arduino is fine if you are using an older pi, but unnecessary if you're using a modern pi. On my list is to see if one of my original gen zero Pis would work for this, but I suspect the problem would be reliable clockrate on PWM or SPI output. Currently, I'm having success with a pi4 using SPI on a sk6812 strip and a levelshifter for 3.3->5v logic for the data line. It seems to me that the only reason to add an arduino would be if you couldn't rely on a reliable signal from the pi or if an arduino is easier/cheaper to use than a levelshifter. Thanks for the video to be sure -- it gave me a lot of data to continue working on my project :)
Thanks for the guide Steve! I followed your guide to the letter, including the items purchased, and the only problem I had was the Raspberry wasn't talking to the Arduino - I think it was due to baud rates - in the most recent version of Hyperion, there is no option to set the baud rate (about 25:54 in your video) for the Led Controller Output path (some other comments indicate I could have set it to 115200 in the Arduino code?). I ended up following some of the other suggestions to forgo the Arduino altogether and used the ws281x controller type, and connected LED the data wire directly to the Raspberry on pin GPIO18 (and ground). Even though the Raspberry only has a 3.3V, the LEDs work great. My 65" TV ended up with 268 LEDs and it works. Thanks again!
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Well, it ran great for the last 3 weeks, but stopped working today - Hyperion is still working, and i can see the video feed from the capture card, and the LEDs still work, so I suspect that the GPIO pin on the Raspberry has burned out? I’ll update here when I figure out what happened.
@@mikehatch4478 You should use a level shifter for the data pin, like a 74ahct125n to shift the 3,3v to 5v. you could also put a resistor in front of the data line, it's often recommended. May I know if you are still using your setup?
Thank you so much. Exceptional work there! I don't know how to do all the work with the power cables though, but i liked what you did there and the final result! Nice keep it up! Thank you again!
when using a computer powersupply make sure that it supplies enough amp's at the 5v powerrail. For example a 250w power supply will not give you 50 amps at 5v. it will divided that power between the 5v , 3.3v and the 12v output rails. You can find this information usualy at the label of the power supply unit. I found that out the hard way.
I've messed with computer power supplies alot for projects. I'm currently mid-way through a project where I'm trying to power a electric adjusting car seat with a computer power supply + an Arduino with a Can-bus attachment to trick the seat into thinking it's in the car, So I can use the original car controls for the seat. I've created a latching circuit, with a relay just because it's mimicking a car with ignition and then start button, but I feel you could have just put a small switch between the switch wire and ground (green+black) and put a tiny switch on the front of your TV mount or something? This switch could have long wires hiding nicely in your TV stand. Or use the Arduino as a switch, there's must be a simple on off output module or relay module you could attach or such idk but fair enough the plug works albeit more cost and more items for you to rely on WiFi working, I've had issues in the past with smart plugs so I avoid them like the plague🤣 Here's a video skip through until you see the very crude wiring diagram I drew in paint 🤣 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cMJ29q1kVFc.html&ab_channel=shellcool0wns 24:40 is a good starting point I explain the circuit (The video was aimed for my two friends who are not electrical minded atall, so sorry for the dumbed down parts and using other people's names lol)
Muito, muito bom. Você explicou todos os detalhes, estarei executando este projeto em breve em minha TV OLED 55" com PS e uma BOX TV XIAOMI com uma fita de led WS2813 (60 leds/metro), logo voltarei aqui para dar o feed back de como ficou. Este é o melhor projeto ambilight que já vi. Obrigado e congratulations.
Could you run the HDMI splitter from the TV USB port, run the pi on the 5V SB line from the power supply, combine that with the push button for startup and shutdown of the PI, then run a startup and shutdown script that turns on the power supply (connects green to black via GPIO) when the PI starts up and powers it off (dis0connects green from black via GPIO) when the PI shuts down? Also, reminder that you can set up DHCP IP Address reservation on your router so it always gets the same IP. You'd need to log into your router's web interface and find the DHCP or IP reservation settings, then input your Raspberry Pi's WiFi or ethernet (if using a hat/adapter or full sized Pi) MAC address. It makes everything easier to use if you need to type the IP to access something, including VNC, SSH, web servers, Pi-Hole, etc. You could even write the IP on a piece of tape or print a label and put it on the PI so you always know what its IP will be.
Can we use RPI zero (without W), just plug in any serial ttl for SSH or ethernet port...configure everything once correctly, and then forever disconnect from the internet?
Great job man. I created a video on my channel just without using a rpi and hdmi capture card. Only works with pc connected. But I will try out your method. If I create a video from it I'll make sure to mention you and credit your work. Cheers.
I liked your video too. I use a PC for everything on my main TV, and I already have a Arduino nano and a power supply I can use, so I think I'm going to try your method.
4:50 some tv's and output devices have rca output so that's probably why one would need such a videocapture without necessarily needing the hdmi adapter 4:50
Dude! Thanks a lot. It's clear and step by step so even my mom could make it!!! Well, if she could understand English :) Thou it is super-understandable, the whole project with a chunk of wires and an enourmous PC AC\DC adapter... made me think once more. And yep, thanks for that, even!
nice video Steve, gonna try this out as a first project, wish me luck. Will this work for a PC? and guessing so even though I didn't hear it mentioned. I know this is 3 years old video but since I know little, is there anything that might be upgradable as far as anything that was used that might be better now that would be setup in the same manner? Thanks for your time.
Great video perfect timing been looking to do this as I have been using prebuilt kits from a company that went under so Im tied to their limited product. I have 2 questions 1. What is the colors video you were testing with 2. Are you aware on any limitations with Dolby Vision HDR or Dolby Atmos along with 4k? Thanks
Use of the Arduino seems pointless, more work than whats really needed. Just use a RP and save on the purchase of the Arduino. Can the HyperBian software still be used with the RP direction without the use of the Arduino?
Good gravey Steve!!! Thank you soooooooo much !! You helped me immensely. One quick question if I could . Have you had any problems with the black bar with this set up !?!?!?
Great presentation of all components for this build, but I was expecting a final schematic illustrating the concept that is gona happen between all components, kind of big illustrating picture like: TV >> ?? xx ?? >> LED strip. Kind of a schematic of the Project Board you builded, anyway your explanation of the wiring is fine and the Project Box is also neat, but an explanation behing the video capturing science would have been great. I have been using AmbiLight with my PC for about 2 years (Arduino Nano + AmbBox/Prismatic (less heavy than AmbiBox mainly) and it works great. I was aware of TV possibility but never jumped into it caused was kind of super tendinous project, at least component required was crazy lot, but with your nice tuto I may again plan to dig into it I regret you did not point us how to find the Amps consuption of the LED strip. You said you used 110 LEDs >> 7,3A. But how did you come to this number?? Because everyone is gona use different amounts of LED according to the size of the TV obviously, so different total Amps consuption. I wish you gave some basic formula. I know it is recommanded to go for a bigger power supply than needed, but still interesting to know an pproximation of the power consuption to be expecting... Plus, it is sometime better to add an individual power source for each strip. because when a big amount of LED is used the LEDs at the end tend to dont receive enough amount of current, so they do not light as expected. I mean like this: alexgyver.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/wiring2.jpg I know you did not cut + solder the strips, there is also to option to add at the start and at the end of the strip, I did it ,and boom it changed the game for my AmbiLight Setup. Order than those small detail, amazing tutorial and very well explained. Thx very much, those kind of shared project really boost you to reproduce them 😉
@@Steve_Does_Stuff Thx you much, hey I did not catch that Hyperion feature lol, killer feature!! While back I was building my ambiLight for PC I can accross that those W8212 use 20mA or 40mA for each led, kind of dont remember well... lol About the Power IN at start I supplied only at the start of Led, but after some month I added Power IN at the end of the strip also and everything is much better. Tip: to diagnostic this need: force the led to show pure WHITE (totally white image) in my case I was getting some yellowish white, close even to orange lol. So fter some reseach I found out that I was related to Amps, not a PS issue cause as you I use a PC Power Supply, then option 2: not enough current traveling through the strip, cause lets be objective, those strp got a tiny amount of cooper connective support... Short long story, add additinal INPUT.... Better and the strip do no het over time...
Hey Steve, awesome video! Around 26:00 mark, can you make a note to users to goto Hyperion settings and change the editing level to highest? then, the baudrate settings will appear
Awesome video man!!! Just a quick question what was your overall cost for this set up, I guess I could price it up myself, but feeling extraordinary lazy today with the gloomy weather forecast 😂😂
Had a thought, Wonder what it would be like to not only use the tv, but maybe lamps, leds, or other lights in the same room as the TV. Something like lightning....the TV not only shows the flashes of lightning, but other lights or leds in the same room do the same thing.
Is there any options to get PS5 (HDMI 2.1 48Gbps) data with HDR 10+ through to the TV while sending the signal to the Raspberry pi for use with Hyperion? I wasnt able to find any splitter or passthrough with copy/capture.
Hey Steve! Really enjoyed the video. Absolute novice at this stuff. I have an old windows mini pc laying around and was wondering if that could be used to directly control the LED strips using the hyperion software instead of going through a raspberry pi?
Great guide! I'm a complete begginner in this kind of things, and i'm ordering the parts right now! I only have 1 question (dont know if i missed something), on the Arduino, you only connect the usb (that goes to the splitter) and the D6 pin (that goes to the DIN on the led strip). There is no need to supply power to the Arduino? Through the 5v pin on the arduino? I would really appreciate if you could help me and clarify this for me. Thank you and great work.
If using his current Arduino sketch with more than 255 LEDs change the line 89 from "for (uint8_t i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) {" to "for (int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) {"
The problems is that the pi gpio pins output at ~3.7 volts. While the LED strip is looking for 5 volts. There are some LEDs that will work with this lower voltage, others will have a problems. You could use a logic shifter to up that low voltage to 5V. At the time I made this video, the Arduino was used in every setup I researched. I’ve done it without the Arduino, but I needed other administrative code to allow Hyperion to allow access to the gpio pins.
Awesome video! I have a question though. Your using the HDMI capture card to connect the video from various output devices. ie cable box, Roku etc etc. But what do you do if your output device is the TV itself? I have a Samsung Smart TV and we use the Samsung apps to watch RU-vid, Prime Video, Netflix, Hulu etc etc. What do I do now?
So this was a great tutorial and helped me with a lot of understanding the components of the this project. Great job. The only question I have is around 30:50 when fixing the order of LEDs. Does the strip just start working automatically? I got up to that point and my LEDs are just not responding. They do flicker red, green and blue when I change the order but that's about it. Thank you again for the tutorial.
This is the correct link to the Raspberry Pi software with Raspbian installed .. github.com/Hyperion-Project/HyperBian/releases But what would really be helpful if you included a wiring diagram in your github repository ;) BUT Thank you this is really awesome!!! People just follow his instructions. Even if you don't know what you're doing it doesn't take long to build this at all :)
Hello just want to ask are you grounding the leds strip to the pi or to the nano and what ground pin are you using? Any advice will be appreciated as its the last thing I need to do thanks
Great tutorial! Just curious - I noticed that when my TV is off it cuts power to the USB port. I'm wondering if I could use this as a way to automatically turn the lights on/off when I turn the TV on/off. I would basically use the USB port on the TV to power the Arduino and Raspberry Pi, then run a ground wire to the LED strips so they all share a common ground. I would then run power from power supply to the LED strip. When the TV shuts off, it would cut power to the Arduino and Raspberry Pi, which would turn off the LEDs. I could then plug the power supply into an Alexa smart plug to allow me to turn off the LEDs if I wanted to watch TV without them on. Do you think that would work?
Sounds like you have a ground loop audio problem with your audio recording setup, which you can hear when displaying the black background and white text between segments
Thanks Steve for the video. I have couple of quetions, could you please answer them when you get a chance? 1. i have my inputs (Roku, Firetv, Xbox, laptop) connected through receiver, i understand that the receiver out should be connected as input. Please confrim it is correct? also i use ARC channel from TV and pass it out of receiver what would you suggest in such scenario? 2. do you suggest one box that would fit all the equipment (similar to one you have on the wooden block).
Finally got my leds to fire up after unplugging the Ds card from pi. I think I have the wiring right. I am using a long strip 600 leds for a projector screen. First time using leds. I saw someone here mention a limitation on priority channel being 253 as an issue with long leds and how he bypassed it. Tried what he said on line 95 Nano code but did not work any suddestions
Thanks for producing this video - definitely my next project. I have a smart TV and don't have devices plugged in (e.g. no ps4), how do I make use of the capture card in this scenario?
Seems like a lot of amps. So if you double the LEDs you would be nearing the 15 amp threshold of most household circuits. And this doesn’t even include all the AV equipment that is likely plugged into the same circuit. Am I missing something?
HELP! Followed your tutorial to the letter. However when changing the LED hardware to "adalight" under the USB tab, it doesn't then give me any other drop down boxes? So confused and feel like I am falling at the last hurdle!
Answered below but just in case. you have to change the settings in the control panel. Top right, change the settings level to advance/expert and those extra settings will appear. This is what had mine not working for like 2 hours. Thought the software was upgraded to autodetect or something, nope, have to change the settings level to see them.
using the switched USB port on the TV for the splitter can create come problems if you use anything that uses CEC to switch the TV on and off like a chromecast or receiver i use voice assistant to to turn the TV on and off sometimes
