You don't need to glue the hub into the gear. Just cut most of the arms of a 4-arm horn leaving just 1-2mm. Then design your gear to accept this shape. I make drive gears down to a diameter of 12mm like this. Alternatively you can also buy steel or brass gears that fit the spline. 25T is very common.
1:11 It is actually possible to print these tiny teeth using 0.1mm nozzle. I have done it on my Anet A8 Plus. Maybe it would work also with 0.2mm nozzle.
Not sure what sort of printer you're using.. But it makes some HORRIBLE quality prints... Majority of printers from a year ago would easily be able to print that part with an adequate amount of detail to fit perfectly on the servo...
What exactly do you mean by "tie the positive lead from the motor power supply into the v-in port of the motor shield"? Should I tether an additional connection from my battery supply to the v-in?
If you like this design, you may also like my DIY Motorized Turntable with Magnetic Attachment Plates: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cBNzXSJFYJ8.html
Thank you! Just what I've been looking for. I am making a cosplay and I needed to figure out how to make a part extend and retract. I am a noobie so it's going to be a learning experience for sure!
I just watched the RU-vid video last night, downloaded the STL files and 3D resin printed it this afternoon, this is a great design! Looking forward to attaching it to my airfoil to change angle of attack in the wind tunnel I have been modifying. Thank you!!
Great ingenious design. You've done a great job packing it all up for easy consumption! I printed the mounting bracket and gear without any issue, but had issues printing the pusher part as the 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) was creating what looked like a spaghetti mess on the bed (note: I'm fairly new and inexperienced with 3D printing). After a bit of research and playing around with settings, I ended up rotating the object upright to print it vertically. After importing the .STL file into Ultimaker Cura, I was able to rotate it, which seems to be the best way to print without supports. I'm sure it could be printed horizontally with support material, but I wasn't sure how to do that. It would be great if somebody could confirm my approach or offer other insights. A second question I have, is how could make this pusher part longer? It is about 150mm in total with 145mm in travel. I'd like to make it about 325mm so I can get about 12" of travel. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks again!
Hey Chris, I've been thinking of getting a 3d printer myself specifically for Arduino/pi projects, did you manage to print it properly using the ender 3 pro, do you think there is something better on the market?
@@fishguylxo The technology is changing so fast, so I'm not sure where the Ender 3 Pro sits relative to other products today, but it worked well for me on this project. The printer was pretty low cost (under $250). I wasted a lot of PLA (the material that the printer uses for it's additive process) trying different settings, but that's part of the learning experience. By no means am I an expert with this stuff, but my suggestion would be to not spend more than $200-300 for a first printer until you get some experience under your belt.
To get more travel you would need a larger drive gear, or do some multi-gear setup that allows the drive gear to spin more. Or, you could use a DC motor that can spin as many times as you need, rather than a servo motor that only goes 180 degrees. Using a DC motor would require a motor controller though, so the code and controls would get more complicated.
Hi! Thanks for the inspiring video! Any thoughts on how to have a couple of actuators in one project? Maybe a grid of 4-6 of these with half going in one direction and half in the other. Would I need a separate motor for each? Thanks!
If you want to use one of these specific designs that I show in the video, you would have to use a motor for each actuator. However, with some redesign you could probably have one motor driving two pushers, going in opposite directions. Something kind of like what is shown here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305061 Note that the stroke lengths would have to get shorter for a dual type design.
Yes, the speed can be varied for continuous rotation servos. The input variable for the .write() function can be varied from 0 to 180. 0 is full speed in one direction and 180 is full speed in the opposite direction. So values from 1 to 89 will vary the speed in one direction. And values from 91 to 179 will vary the speed in the opposite direction.
Anyone have any advice how to get it to go past 180 degrees I printed the 100mm version on the large servo and I'm not able to get the full 100mm of travel.
Why don't you drill a hole in the center of the circular gear for the standard sized servo so you can remove the gear from the servo if need be? The way you have done it here assumes the servo will never go bad.
I want to attach the soil moisture sensor to the servo motor up down mechanism you showed so I can penetrate the soil moisture sensor anywhere I want. Will that work sir Or do you have any solutions.
Yes it is. I included 4 different size pusher arms with the STL files. I also included the dimensions you would need to design an even longer one. Keep in mind that the longer it gets, the more the pusher arm will deflect and bend when it pushes on something.
You are right you don't- but the motor shield has the correct connector built in AND it supplies separate motor power to the servo(s), which helps prevent electrical issues when the motors are under load.
@@PotentPrintables So, I see. I guess that works better than supplying separate power directly to the servos? Well, having the correct connectors is definitely useful.
amazing that can be used in the predator wrist gauntlet to let the blades come out and safely back in else with other systems they jump out and on cons with lot of people its not prefered to have that your system is much safer to use greetings reggy
Hello, was wondering, if i were to use a stock servo moto(meaning no mods at all) can it still work? I'm using this actuator as a way to overcome the dangerousness of people or workers that have to do maintenance on high tall wind turbines, and with this it might be easier for them to do maintenance as it goes down towards the ground.
I had something very similar to this in my head and so glad I found you. I was picturing the toys that had a flexible "T" rack that looks like a big zip tie and you would push it into a flywheel assembly and pull it. Then put the toy down and watch it go. Can you 3D print is something flexible like that? Otherwise I am going to have to figure out the math of a slightly curved rack. I need to slide a 4' rectangular lid about a pivot point at one corner of the long side and have the opposite corner open about 8 to 10 inches. Imagine a coffin lid anchored at one corner and you push the other corner to open it. The line scribed by the rack would be slightly curved. Another option would be to have the rack have a circle at the end with a hole that mounts to a post so the post could rotate inside the hole. Or attach the end of the rod to a short rubber band to the post. Or the case itself can have the part that holds the rack against the gear be much shorter. That way, the rack could actually tilt a little bit around the gear since the arc is very shallow. I'm more an electrical guy than a gear guy so going through the possibilities ;)
Hi- I recommend checking out some of these RU-vid channels. They have printer reviews and beginner guides for 3d printing. Maker's Muse 3D Printing Nerd Thomas Sanladerer Maker's Muse has a video that might interest you: "Cheap 3D Printers THAT DON'T SUCK $350 and under" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VZn-5leg_q0.html Hope this helps!
This is great. One problem I encountered (My fault) when I printed this was I reorientated the pusher rod to fit flatter on the table. Because I rotated it 90degrees it caused an issue with rod not fitting into the slot easily. I guess my printer needs calibrating more precisely. I do think the pusher rod needs a flat plat so that the geared part sits on the printer plate without needing supports. Thanks for this file its a great addition.
Hi! I'm gonna use this in my self-resetting Rube Goldberg Machine. It's gonna be an arm that pushes mail into a mailbox, which triggers on a proximity sensor, and sends the mailbox flag up (connected to another servo) :)
I've got the same issue, I've got a home location then I need the actuator to move 1" forward then wait then move 1/2" forward then wait then return home. It needs to repeat this thousands of times and be able to go back to those locations with some precision. I had a 180 degree servo and it seemed super precise but would not travel enough for my needs so I got a continuous one and it never seems to be able to go back to the same spot ever.
Hello!!, thank you for this fantastic design!!. I have an Hitec HS-785HB servo that I need convert to linear actuator, but this servo has Length:2.32 in (58.9 mm), Width:1.14 in (29.0 mm) and Height:1.96 in (49.8 mm). Can I scale STL's to print linear actuator for my Servo?. Thanks!!.
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me
@Darwin Russell thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hello, I am having a problem with the actuator returning to “home tooth”. I’ll explain, I used a sharpie marker and placed a dot on the cog wheel and the other on the pusher (to check for calibration and alignment)......when operating,the actuator pusher works as expected but with the exception of returning to the same “tooth”...... each time the actuator is activated it’s one tooth off from the “home tooth” that I marked with a sharpie.......the actuator works flawlessly besides this issue.... what could cause this problem or how to possibly fix?
I'm assuming you have adjusted the delay time to try to get the actuator to retract for a longer time period? If that doesn't work, there might be a physical interference that is preventing the actuator from fully retracting.
Potent Printables thank you for your timely response..... I have been messing with the times but, no matter what the times are it has the same problem..... switched the micro servo and it still has the same problem...... any other ideas?
Potent Printables no it doesn’t ....... when the program starts, the actuator moves forward....delay.... and then retracts.......... then I push the button on arduino to cycle again, but this time it will extend by one more tooth then retracts...... eventually if I cycle through the program enough times (3) then the teeth on the cog and pusher won’t align and it won’t retract..... I give it a little help when retracting and then when it gets to the home position it will drink the gears............ to sum it up, every time I hit the button it extends by one tooth
Also I should mention, that when first powering the servo to the arduino the servo moves a little..... like it’s setting it’s self to home..... would that have anything to do with it? Is there a way to keep the servo stationary when first plugging power to it?
I'm sure if the dimensions match up, then yeah. Here's a link to the servo that is used's dimensions. images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71tf6GU8etL._SL1500_.jpg
