was ready to buy $259 mount till I saw this . Great Great job very good design thank you so much for sharing your brains with us. It was exactly what I was looking for
I just completed a copy of your mount for my Mega Live Transducer. I did use the Harbor Freight Low Temperature Aluminum Brazing Rods to secure the transducer mount aluminum angle to the square tube for the mount. Worked well and seems to be very strong. Just wanted to thank you again JW for a great design and your sharing it in this detailed video. Be well and tight lines!
I just ordered everything through your links,thank you for having them in the description 2023 total for everything about $95 bucks,not bad, and I can’t wait to get it in and mount it to my boat,thanks again and have a great day 👊
I believe I have found my new pole mount for my livescope. Just have a modification I'll have to make to my boat to mount this but now I have a plan which I didn't before. Thanks so much for this design. I like it.
I’ve reviewed AT mounts for days ranging from $100 to $500 and none of them appear to provide the overall efficiency of your superior design. A couple of years ago I followed a different design using ram ball mounts and was constantly fiddling with repositioning my Livescope transducer every single time I had to redeploy. There is no doubt that a somewhat smaller version of your design will work very well on my Hobie PA14 AT mount. Thank you for sharing!
Hope yours works as well as mine do! I fought one of my original sonar units on a Ram mount moving every time I hit a wave. I wasn’t about to go that route with this heavy transducer on a 4-foot pole. Thanks for watching and good luck!
This is my project for tomorrow morning! I have the summit ram mount/Scotty ball. It has worked for jigging/casting but trolling is out of the picture. This is exactly what I needed to find! Plus on a pontoon I already have square tubing! Great video!
Good luck! I’d like to see the pontoon version. Those ball mounts have their place, but I don’t think it is on the end of a 4-foot pole you want to keep square to the water all the time every time. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful. I was contemplating using a bike mount. But as you stated, coming into the the dock it would protrude. The problem that I currently have is stability while spider rigging. Thank you for solving this issue.
I used all schedule 40 PVC. The outer pipe is 1-1/4” nominal pipe size (1.660” OD), 49 ¾” long. The inner pipe is 1” nominal pipe size (1.315” OD), 53 ¾” long. The lengths were just determined by how long was necessary to clear the bottom of the boat. At the top of the 1” pipe is a 1” Tee fitting (socket x socket x socket). For the handle connection, the tee has a 1" x 3/4" Reducer Bushing Flush Style - (Spig x Female Iron Pipe). Good luck, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I have had pan optics on my boat with a homemade holder similar to yours, but there’s one issue I see! Don’t think you’re never going to hit anything with that pole in the water so after three years I will tell you you need some type of release mechanism to release the unit under pressure If you do hit a stump or something like the bottom of the pond lake a very stiff structure stump you have to rebuild that whole thing the way you’ve got it set up. There has to be some type of release or you will break the piss out of that.
Thanks for your comment. I fish a lot of trees, but I’ve only run in to tree tops which were not a problem. If I was concerned about hitting “solid” objects, I would attach the PVC pole to the angle aluminum with something that would stretch - probably some of those bungee ball cords. You might need something to positively fix the height of the pole when deployed, but then one or two of the bungee cords would keep it seated in the aluminum angle until you hit something, and then it could flex out of place. Thanks for watching!
Very nice. You did a great job designing this. I used the cycle work station mount on my Crestliner boat that was quick and easy but you have given me some good ideas for mounting solution on my Hobie kayak.
Exceptional video. Thank you. I tried to order metal and the first question was the alloy and I wondered how I could order exactly what I need to build two like you did. I am new to comments, so I am not sure how to find your list. Thanks for the great idea
If you click on “more” at the end of the video description where it shows “29k views 1 year ago,” you will see the links for the material including the alloys I used. Thanks for watching, and good luck!
Wow great presentation enjoyed your thought process to get to your final project! Debating on DIY or buy one . Really liked your set up very solid design thank you for sharing!
Searched hi and low for a solution, and I'm so happy to have found yours! As you said "I watched a lot of U-Tube videos that showed me how I didn't want to do it":) One question: The locating pin - you said it was a machine screw attached to the base with a nyloc nut. How does the base sit flat if there is a nut underneath the base?
The locating pin is a #10 flathead machine screw (countersunk) that comes up from the bottom of the base. The nyloc nut is what actually does the locating. Thanks for watching and good luck!
@@johnhuheey5336 I used the Dremel to cut the screw off flush with the end of the nut and then grind it smooth so it wouldn't dig in to the square tubing when sliding it in.
I really like your concept, I am trying to figure out how I can modify to use on a fiberglass ranger boat, my biggest problem is my top of gunnel is not nearly as wide as you have so I can mount it ok but may have to incorporate a al plate on bottom to give me a wider base (gunnel) and then proceed like yours? Hmmm? I still have thinking to do since also the whole plate and mount will be more exposed and protruding than yours since I don’t have the large gunnel.
Thanks for watching and commenting! There are so many different boat configurations out there. Without seeing your boat it’s hard to guess what would work. I don’t see why you would need an additional plate on the bottom though. If you could use the outboard mounting holes into your gunnel, then you would probably just need a support leg at the inboard end of the base to your floor or side wall or something. I would envision something like a 1 ½" x 1 ½" aluminum angle leg attached to the back side of the 2” leg of the base and then somehow attached to the floor. Good luck, hope it works out!
@@jwsworkshop4169 I have a great idea.....Make me one for my Bass Tracker 175TX. I love this design you came up with. I must have watched it a hundred times already. Seriously, if you are willing I will pay for it.
Excellent design JW! I just build one but the design is not as good as yours and more complicated to build. Thanks for sharing and for the concise explanation on the the build. What do you do about the cabling from the console to the bow?
I installed the ActiveTarget module under my console. I ran the cable out from there forward towards the bow position. Where the cable emerges from down under, it is about equal distance to my two transducer pole positions. I left some excess cable to allow for stowage of the pole in the bottom of the boat. I control the excess with a heavy rubber band wrapped around a conveniently located cleat. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
If you don't mind me asking - how did you run the transducer connector/plug through the 1 inch pipe? The locking collar on the connector is too big to fit through the 1 inch pipe. The installation instructions that came with the unit mentioned cutting the collar and using a split collar - but they didn't provide any diagrams and I'm not sure that I understood them correctly. Thanks again for the video.
My system is Lowrance Active Target and the locking collar that came on my sonar cable measures about 0.90”. The inside diameter of 1 inch PVC is just over an inch, so it was an easy fit for mine.
Great video. Is there anyway I can contact you and send you a picture of my boat? I’d love to replicate this idea on my boat but I don’t have a perfectly level surface like your boat gunnel has. Would love your input, thanks!
Thanks for watching! I’m sorry but I don’t share contact info on RU-vid. If you have pictures on a photo sharing site and could provide a link here, I’d be happy to try to help. Good luck!
Yes, I used schedule 40 PVC. The outer pipe is 1-1/4” nominal pipe size (1.660” OD). The inner pipe is 1” nominal pipe size (1.315” OD). Good luck and thanks for watching!
ca you tell me what the size of the outer tube is i have made all the other components ad am excited to use the transducer. thank you for your help . gene
I used schedule 40 PVC. The outer pipe is 1-1/4” nominal pipe size (1.660” Outside Diameter). The inner pipe is 1” nominal pipe size (1.315” OD). Good luck and thanks for watching!
I am just getting started trying to make something like this or should I buy something. After sending 1700.00 on activetarget it is hard thing of spend more on this. I am trying to figure out how I can modify to use on a fiberglass Bass boat. I have to go from the floor. But over all this is a great idea I like it and Not 300.00. The Ram Mount just does not look like it will hold up. Again thanks. I will let you know it turns out.
Thanks for watching and commenting! See my previous reply to Greg. Maybe you guys can figure out the fiberglass boat mount. Good luck, hope you get something figured out!
The pipe is schedule 40 PVC. The outer pipe is 1-1/4” nominal pipe size (1.660” OD). The inner pipe is 1” nominal pipe size (1.315” OD). Good luck and thanks for watching!
I don’t know of any reason why steel wouldn’t work. I just find aluminum easier to work with and I have a good supply of it. And, I know it won’t rust. Thanks for watching!
I have the PVC poles made up but was looking at how to mount the PVC poles to the top square rail on my pontoon, will your design work but in a shorter form? Any suggestions is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jeff Burkhead
Hey, thanks for watching and sorry I’m slow responding. I think my design could be made shorter, maybe even half as long. I don’t think you would lose much rigidity in the direction that is important (forward and reverse). You would give up some rigidity if you were trolling sideways. I would probably mount the device directly to your square rail through the 4-inch leg of the base. That should be pretty rigid front to back, but might need additional support side to side. Maybe an additional piece of angle aluminum attached to the back side of the 2-inch leg of the base and run down vertically to another rail of something else on the boat? Good luck!
I can’t make one for a triton but I think this design should work on any boat if you can figure out how to mount it. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Could you explain more about the pipe? You said it was abs, correct? What diameters? How much does it move in the water? How did you attach transducer, anything special?
The pole I made was from Schedule 40 PVC pipe. The inner pipe is 1 inch nominal pipe size. The actual outside diameter of it is 1.315 inch. The Active Target transducer attaches directly to this pipe with the hardware supplied with it. The outer pipe is 1 ¼ inch nominal pipe size. It has a nominal inside diameter of 1.360 inch. This gives .045 inch diametral clearance between the two pipes. The inner pipe can rotate freely in the water but you don’t notice any radial movement due to the fit. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
@@jwsworkshop4169 Do you have a video of how you made your pole? Parts list/description? Great Video of the mount, I'm ordering my metal as I type this.
@@keikow69 I do not have a video of making the pole. I used all schedule 40 PVC. The outer pipe is 1-1/4” nominal pipe size (1.660” OD), 49 ¾” long. The inner pipe is 1” nominal pipe size (1.315” OD), 53 ¾” long. The lengths were just determined by how long was necessary to clear the bottom of the boat. At the top of the 1” pipe is a 1” Tee fitting (socket x socket x socket). For the handle connection, the tee has a 1" x 3/4" Reducer Bushing Flush Style - (Spig x Female Iron Pipe). Good luck and thanks for watching!
I used schedule 40 PVC. The outer pipe is 1-1/4” nominal pipe size (1.660" OD). The inner pipe is 1” nominal pipe size (1.315” OD). Good luck and thanks for watching!
Great Mount!! I have one problem however. I am mounting a Garmin transducer on my pole and the diameter of the inner pole is only 1" and my transducer connection to my GLS LIVESCOPE Box is 1 3/16". Any PVC pipe combination that would work so that it would fit?
If you’re using nominal 1 inch schedule 40 PVC, the actual outside diameter is 1.315”. That is what I used for my Active Target transducer. Thanks for watching!
@@jwsworkshop4169 I am using the I inch sch. 40 PVC. The problem is that only has a 1" inside diameter and I can't fit my Garmin transducer connector in the 1" hole, it is 1 3/16 ". Do I need to use larger pipe? What size?
@@KenYoung-pu2yk I guess I’m not familiar with mounting a transducer inside a pipe. Mine clamps on the outside of the 1” nominal PVC. The next bigger schedule 40 PVC size is 1 1/4 with an inside diameter of 1.360. That would be rather loose.
@@jwsworkshop4169 I'm sorry I was not clear. I'm not mounting the transducer inside the I" pipe I'm mounting it on the outside of the pipe just like you. It looks like you ran your transducer chord down the middle of your 1" pipe. Correct? I am using a 1" pvc inside a 1 1/4" pvc just like you. The problem is when I try to thread my transducer chord trough the 1" pvc pipe the connection end of the transducer chord is 1 3/16". TOO LARGE!! Is there a solution or do I have to run the transducer chord down the outside of the pipe?
@@KenYoung-pu2yk Yes, I was pleasantly surprised I could run my transducer cable inside the 1” PVC. I guess if your connection is that big, the choices are bigger PVC or run the cable outside the PVC.
Thanks for watching! I saw that one. It's a good concept, but it fails to meet three important design objectives for me: 1.) Rigid when deployed (two slip fit pivot points and no obvious detent device for keeping it deployed), 2.) Cheap and easy to move the pole to a second location in the boat, 3.) Easy to store the pole in the bottom of the boat at the end of the day for no interference with the boat cover.
