Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great video Wil ! Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up. I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
I feel dumb when it comes to swap wiring How do you go about getting power to the cars harness Wanting to swap my z, but I’d like to keep all factory functions. Like lights and turn signals.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
So I do not know nothing about wiring and I’m rebuilding a 5.3 and using stock harness just sun internal mods going into the truck btw but how do u know Wich sensor goes where
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
If I have the harness, computer, and fuse block from the car that the engine came from do I have to do anything to the computer? Will the check engine light wire give me a check light if I don't have all the extra abs, stablittrac and air bag crap connected?
So I would need obviously the engine, engine wiring harness ECU for that engine and the BCM (body control module)? Can you explain why I would need the BCM? I don't intend on installing any of the airbags, traction control or anti lock brakes (although the anti lock brakes would be great) why would BCM be necessary? No other video showing a LS swap has said anything about BCM.@@wilsworkshop
Should be super easy, Trailblazers came with 5.3L and 6.0L as a stock option, so you can just buy all the OEM engine mounts and parts to slap it in there.
So if you don't hook up your transmission wires, fan, etc, won't it show (check engina) because it's not getting a signal, and what about the security bypass system, how much did it cost to have your computer flashed, and with your camera moving up and down it's making me dizzy watching your video, you need a stabilizer on it
Yes you'll get check engine lights with a stock computer without a trans connected. It cost me around $3000 to flash the computer. Just shake your head up and down really fast when you watch, bonus points if you puke all over your bed.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
So I have a 6.0 ls out a 2005 h2 hummer that I bought but didn't come with fuse box ,can I use one from another ls engine or other year or does it have to be especially from that year and model?
If it's for an engine swap, you can just use any Gen 3 wiring harness that matches the throttle body you plan to use. The engine itself is the same as the Sierra, Silverado, Yukon, etc.. from 2003-2006.
I sure wish youd said/having said that/ever few seconds/ also,Too bad you didnt have some music going that I've never herd before, And,your hands are dirty. Having said that,You did a good video!
Thank you for all of your wiring videos! They have been a huge help in my swap on my s10. I do have one question though in the harness, what did you do with the ground splices where multiple grounds meet up? I’m stripping the rear o2 sensors and other plugs like the coolant level or oil level switch and all their grounds are spliced together
I usually just cut the ground wire thats being removed off near that splice and heat shrink over the end, then tape it up. Not 100% necessary since it's just a ground wire, but it makes it look cleaner.
@@wilsworkshop sounds good to me!! That should work pretty good. I started laying my harness out under the hood today so I can get it organized how I would like. I think I’m going to tuck most of the wiring by guns fuel rails instead of over the top of the motor. Most of it lines up but I’m going to have to lengthen the drivers side injectors and throttle body plugs. Should be pretty tidy when I’m done hopefully
Im curious where that purple wire at B8 is for? Brandan over at Lt1swap shows using B11 for switched 12 volt on 99-02 fuse blocks and B11 I think on the 03-07’s. Whats also baffling is you didnt hook that purple to anything before you started the engine
I used the purple wire as a starter relay output wire for a different setup. I just reused the connector for this demonstration since it already had the wires removed. For this setup I wired the starter directly to the ignition switch, bypassing the stock relay, so the purple wire wasn't used or mentioned.
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy. Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need. The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
Thanks for the video demo. I'm sure it will save me some money. I've got an 03 suburban like to pull the engine and transfer it into my 87 Chevy pickup. What type of budget transmission have you used in your projects?
The 4L60e's that came in the trucks are the most budget option there is. They aren't the best choice for heavy vehicles or modified engines, but will work if it's just a daily driver type vehicle. Second choice is a 4L80e. They can be found cheap enough to still be considered budget and can usually take more abuse then a stock rotating assembly can put out.
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
Would you also know what fuses and relays could be pulled from the fuse block after you rework a harness? Im just being anal about cleaning up the fuse block some.
It depends on you're setup, the easiest way is google the fuse block and year/vehicle you got it from. Search Images and find the one matching yours. Then pull all the fuses and relays you aren't using, things like lights, horn, etc.. Or toss the stock cover over it and keep them in there as spares.
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
It depends on your gauges. There isn't an easy answer since everyone's swap is different. This video just covers the wiring needed for the engine/transmission to run.
how did you disable alarm or immobilizer ? if not deactivated wont they keep engine from starting ? if not , pcm still thinks it's in original vehicle and won't start
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
my transmission has a problem when I put it in D it doesn't work but in 1 and 2 it works and reverses also you know what the problem would be thanks for your help
You can buy an aftermarket fuse and relay block and wire it in. I've used some of the $15 ones off ebay that have at least 4 fuses and 2 relays to rework stock harnesses. Something like this : www.ebay.com/itm/203652877070?hash=item2f6aa84b0e:g:sNoAAOSwzU1haUQw
Where did you get your computer reflashed to get tge vehicle anit theft removed im getting a whole 2001 Tahoe with a 5.3 and I'm putting it in my 98 jeep wrangler and what fuel pressure should I have to make it run well
I used HP Tuners to remove VATS, but there's lots of choices online to get yours done. Stock fuel pressure is 4 Bar - 58 PSI. @ 30GPM If your engine is mostly stock , a stock fuel pump works great. I have a couple videos installing stock fuel pumps in projects.
Awesome, very thorough yet simple and informative. how do you flash the ECM to take off what you are not using? or who did you get to Flash the ECM for Stand Alone?
Wil's Workshop which HP Tuner system do you use or which do you recommend? Any advice would you give to someone who is wanting to learn tuning? PS, I'm a old guy trying to step into present times.
Rubbing alcohol might be better for cleaning since it evaporates so easily. I always buy 91% and dilute it if needed. Generally cheaper that way, then put it in a used up spray bottle.
Looks really complicated probably not gona do this process as I would probably just screw it up. Clearly you are way more proficient at this process mhan me and most novices. 😅
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
Hey brother I have a question? I bought this 5.3 from a Chevy avalanche and I want to use a drive-by Cable but this avalanche came with the drive-by wire my throttlebody doesn’t have those kind of plugs what can I do?
The harness I learned how to make from your video was a Camaro one so it had the correct plugs this one does not have the same kind of plugs it’s from a Chevy avalanche 04
To switch a drive by wire to a drive by cable you'll need to purchase the IAC and TPS connectors, then run the wires back to the correct pins on the computer connectors. You can reuse the DBW wires, just switch them to the right spots. It's not too bad, just takes a little work with pinout sheets.
I don't believe there's a difference, the electronics on the engines are identical and interchangeable, so I assume the fuse block is the same also, but I'm not 100% positive, I've never compared the two.
On my test stand I have a fuel pump wired on a separate relay that's activated by key-on power. You can use the stock relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the stock fuse block. The computer will activate the relay for 4 seconds when the key is first on to prime the system, then on during crank and run.
Instead of removing the pin and wire from the connector, could you just cut the wire right at the connector? Is it okay to do this or will it cause an issue?
You can, but it's possible the cut wire can ground against something or get water in it and cause corrosion. If you don't want to de-pin the connectors it's just better to leave the extra wires in the harness.
Wil, I'm currently running a Tremec T56 Magnum manual 6 speed with all the wires connected to Dakota Digital dashboard interface box. I want to just pitch all the Auto Transmission wires from my 6.0 stock wiring harness swap engine. Am I missing anything by doing that? Thank you. Great explains in your videos. I learned a great deal. Regards, Matt P
As far as I know youtube removed all the private message stuff a year or two ago, no idea why. The EFI on these motors are pretty basic for a stock type engine. The main two flavors are Flex or non-flex and Return Rails or Return-less. All use 58 PSI / 4 bar at the rails.
