One thing you might try is cutting another tube lengthwise and wrapping your diffusing material around that and then insert inside the other tube. The tube you cut will expand and hold the diffusing material against the outer tube. You could tape the RGB strip to the inner tube that you cut. Another alternative to the wax paper is parchment paper sold at the grocery story.
The piece you cut will not expand it will coil up even smaller I tried it you'd have to put the parchment paper on the outside of a pipe and then put the cut one over it for that idea to work
For anybody looking to make very many of these, the tube guards are something required in all commercial kitchens to protect the food in case of any broken bulbs. (at least in my state, it's mentioned in building and food safety codes) Because they're a required thing, and because sometimes it's easier to replace them than to clean all the grease off them if they've been over a fryer or anything, they can be really cheap to get. If there's any kind of commercial supply place near where you live, you can probably pick up a whole case of the tubes for dirt cheap. Especially because a lot of places are moving to LEDS, which already meet the shatter protection requirements for being in kitchens.
Each tube itself costs 20 bucks itself, if you get a power supply that’s strong enough for more strips and even a dmx controller you could really scale this
I want to make some of these to be dmx controllable through my lighting software on my pc. Would you happen to know if a dmx decoder to my computer in place of the WiFi controller would recognize the led strips “effect” functions?
@@jimi2tyms I'm trying to figure this out. Did you ever figure out if that would work? Was thinking I would use a DMX software -> USB to DMX converter - > DMX 512 Decoder with DMX IN/OUT -> these tape lights. For some reason I can't get a solid answer anywhere if this will work.
9' table with a fairly wide rail cap and a monster of a side pocket... Gold Crown? Good to see that table being used productively. I hope you didn't waste your money on Simonis Tourney blue like most fanbois. APA player I take it?
Thanks buddy, i was on with the same quest as you, having rejected foam, fabric, I was a bit concerned about how the wax paper will play out, you just answered it for me.. Thanks :)
That’s awesome. I picked up some “frosted” spray paint. I’m going to try and coat a tube and see how that compares to using the paper as a diffuser. If it works as well or better, I’ll make a quick update video.
Good one. Subbed. Idea..could tie a small weight to string and cable for string to run the length of tube and use it to pull the paper through tube easier...maybe. Saalute.
I watched so many DIY videos for this and this was the best quality tube light I’ve seen. Thank you! Do you have any idea if it would be possible to have it be battery powered?
It would be possible, but with the 144 per meter strips, batteries will get drained fairly quickly. I built a lightsaber that runs two of these strips, and I have to replace the battery after about 30 minutes.
@@faithbrown8461 the only way I know of, is to wire in a controller board that can convert 3.7v to 12v (the 144 per meter strips run on 12v, as opposed to 5v that most of the other cheap led strips run on)
@@wittech6116 I would buy or make a 3s lithium-ion (or lipo drone battery) battery to supply 12v rather than using a boost convertor as they will drain a 3.7v cell super quick
@@benhibberd6907 that is definitely an option. I was just giving an example I’m familiar with. And while lipo’s are relatively safe if you know how to handle them, I have a hard time suggesting them being used to the general public. Thank you for your comment. I love connecting with people passionate about tech and electronics. Are you into RC?
wait, that's a ws2812b led strip, they can get really hot and with 144 leds per strip it's going to overheat which will dim and damage them over time if they have no ventilation, especially if they're wrapped up in baking paper in a tube, it should be on a heatsink like aluminium.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the LED strip says it uses 0.3 watt per LED. So that makes the strip use 43.2 watts if they are all on at full brightness. However the Power Supply you have linked in the description only powers 15 watts. I assume it works but is this going to be insufficient if you chain more than 1 strip together?
Your absolutely right. I hadn’t even thought about the power output of this power supply concerning multiple strips (since I only made one). I will be making a follow up video answering this question and others. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.
I´ve seen another DIY tutorial where the LED strip got wrapped around a round wooden stick. Maybe that could help with your version as well? It already looks really good though and I´m about to buy all the supplies needed to build my own. So thank you for that. Your tutorial is the best so far. Could you also do a portable one so a power supply isn´t necessarily needed?
You can buy a 5v to 12v step up module cable. This has USB on one end, a 5v-12v module in the middle and a 12v connecter for 12V LED strips. This can be plugged into any powerbank. Im currently making 6 of these. Wrapping the strips around a pole as you are describing and using parchement paper from the store. Still need to figure out to make a solid handle with the powerbank inside with powerswitch+ charging easily available
@uberhabib little late but, they make handles with battery packs in them, could be an easy solution! Interested to know if you went with the 3.3ft 144 led strip or a longer strip with a lesser density since you are wrapping it. Looking to make a large set of tubes with battery packs myeslf
Hey just stumble across your video. Just curious is you could possibly send me the materials list for this project. The links don't seem to work anymore. Thanks for the amazing channel.
I believe a power supply can support up to 4 strips. Each strip also has a power bypass, meaning you can attach a power supply on every 4th tube, but the data line is still connected to all the strips. It is certainly possible. I may make another video explaining adding more tubes in greater depth. Thank you for the question!
Hi, I secured way to setup 10 led tube together and control them all together with an app , you suggest what / how to link them and control together and what to use for wifi controller and power supply ? Thanks
Thanks for the very informative video. Is there an option where you can get one of these that has a battery powered option. I would like to use one of these in the field where I would not have a power source other than the smaller power banks that use usb connections. Much appreciated.
Thank you! I’m going to be doing a video on a budget key light very soon, that should be really helpful for anyone struggling to get their lighting correct.
Great idea but Please don't confuse this with "Quasar Science" lights, you cant even come close because you can actually chain them together and create real Images on Quasar Science lights and that is why they cost so much, Plus they accept various forms of control like DMX and more. You would be better off comparing your light to Govee as they are for "Home" use and Quasar Science is made for Movie making
The paper your using may have a heavier coating of wax. I just picked up the cheap stuff from a dollar store. Using standard scotch tape, I have yet to have an issue.
Could anyone help me please I am currently Looking at buying the 1m 144 led strip but there is also an additional option: something like 144ip30 144ip65 and 144ip67 whats the difference please and thank you?
I want to make some of these to be dmx controllable through my lighting software on my pc. Would you happen to know if a dmx decoder to my computer in place of the WiFi controller would recognize the led strips “effect” functions?
It’s not a true white. Like most RGB lighting, full brightness on all the dies will give you “white”. But in order to get a true white, you would need to use a strip that is rgbw (red, blue, green, white)
You are not the first to ask. I have been trying to come up with a budget option. Making it portable is relatively easy, but doing it within the constraints of making it affordable makes things a bit more difficult. Couple that with how hard it is to find an appropriate controller that’s in stock and not overpriced doesn’t help things.
Since these run off 5v, you could conceivably run them off of a power bank, but that power bank would have to be able to handle at least 10a/15w of continuous power delivery. The other issue would be the controller. You would have to find one that uses Bluetooth instead of wifi.
why not sticking the led to the wood and pass it through the holes of the tube? it will always be in the middle and you can go spiral with lower density leds.
Go to any big box store like Lowe's, Home Depot, Sutherlands, etc. They should have them available in the lighting section with the fluorescent lights.
Nice, I've been watching those DIY RGB tubes recently and might be able to put one together myself soon. I really like your video, however I'd advice to bring the mic close/increase the volume - it sounds a little bit quiet, like it was hidden behind something, boosts low freq sound a lot. Moving the PC/screen away would also give you more room to show what you are doing - you are roughly squeezed to half of the frame. But with a PC like this I'd love to showcase it, too :D
If I make multiple, I assume I would need multiple signal devices for the strips ro plug into? Also, do you think the app would be able to run multiple signals at the same time?
Hi. I used all the same items you used and tried this but I can still see the separated lights even after doubling the wax paper. Should I wrap it 3 times? 😢
Is there a way to make the controller work on a group of these together. Let's say about 24 of them? Also instead of the paper. I wonder if using frosted glass spray paint would work better? I've used it on other projects.
So I'm planning on building this but I've got a question.. I want two make two 4' tubes, but the led strip is only 3.2'. I found a strip by the same company that is 16.4' but it's only 60 LEDs/m instead of 144/m like the strip you used. Do you think the 60/m version will show individual LEDs?
So, as you decrease the density of leds on the strip, you have to increase the amount of diffusion. Unfortunately, as you increase the diffusion, you will invariably decrease to light output. Long story short, can it be done? Yes, but you will have to experiment with diffusion, and you will more than likely be unhappy with how much light they output.
@@wittech6116 that's what I figured.. I guess I'll have to buy multiple strips and cut them down because I want my tubes to be 4' long Anyway, great video man and the camera angle on the update video is a solid change.
no type of tape sticks to this paper. i dont get how he just taped it. ive tried every type of tape. the paper is made so that bacon and stuff wont stick to it. nothing sticks i cant get the strip to stick.
I have not had any issues with overheating. In my lightsaber (which has two of these strips inside a much smaller tube) I have never seen any overheating.
So in europe it seems basically impossible to find a 3-pin rgb controller or a 4-pin 144/meter led rgb strip. Currently it feels like check mate. Any ideas from your end?
You could try thesaberarmory.com/products/high-quality-ws2812b-144-led-per-meter-neopixel-led-strip?_pos=9&_sid=f5e1ca5e7&_ss=r I can’t really help you with the controller. And, that strip will require you to solder your own leads and connectors. I wish I could help more. I don’t believe that 4 pin 144/m strips exist.
I love this! Are there any alternative controllers since at the moment for me it shows that they are unavailable? Or maybe another store I could try to find them at?
@@wittech6116 I just tried to connect them, but the controller has a four-pin acceptor but the strip doesn't have any pins to connect it with... any ideas on how to connect them?
@@Sarimht which controller and strip are you using? Sounds like you purchased a strip that doesn’t have any leads. If that’s the case, you will need to solder a connector lead. Does the strip have four contacts? Non addressable rgb strips will have 4 pins/contacts. Addressable (like the ones I used) will only have 3 pins.
@@wittech6116 I am using the strips you put in the description and this is the connector I am using: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SWK8H25/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hope this helps!
@@Sarimht I would return the strip. You didn’t receive the correct item. I just double checked the link, and that strip will have leads on both ends with connectors. Let me take a look at that controller.
@@faithbrown8461 that’s the issue. 4 contacts means non addressable led (all one color), 3 contacts/pins (like the strip I recommend) are addressable (each led on the strip is controllable). 3 pin controllers work with 3 pin strips, and 4 pin controllers with 4 pin strips.
@@Theplugbro as a reminder, I have no idea if or how well this controller will work. Use at your own risk. www.ebay.com/itm/DC5V-24V-WiFi-Music-SPI-LED-Controller-for-3PIN-WS2812B-RGB-Light-Strips-Alexa-/224628765061?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I made some DIY quasars, and quasar stepped in to replace my lights with the real ones. let me be the first to tell you this is a good idea but compared to the real quasars it's a straight up embarrassment. none of these diy setups, including mine, light properly let alone put out anywhere near enough power, those leds just don't cut it. save your money, buy used quasars if you have to, or hmu for a discount. lol.