I have a book my dad gave me which is the owner's manual for a 1938 ford sedan he used to have. It actually recommends that you pour motor oil in each door and other closed areas, then drive down the dustiest road you can find to stick the oil to the car. Worked great to prevent rust.
My mini van is rust proofing itself! The other day while changing the oil i noticed how very rust free the engine compartment is where all of the oil that leaks is being deposited then contrasting that to the very very very rusty fenders rockers doors and quarter panels. I thought to myself there’s gotta be something about using oil to rust proof a car. Glad I’m getting some affirmation that I was thinking right.
I have been doing this for about 20 years. A old timer I used to hang out with as a teen showed me how to oil a car. I live in Pennsylvania and I've never had a rust issue. So glad to see this video to show others how it's done.
Nice to see this video. I used oil for years and years. I also sprayed other cars with oil and made extra money. I even went to a garage a couple of blocks away and got their oil. That was back in the good old days. Now that everything is going green, I can't get oil anymore. I did thin my oil down. I used an old paint gun so the oil would spray a mist to get into the cracks. After 15 years of doing this, I had zero rust on my car or no issues with damaged rubber When all sprayed, I would drive down a dusty road to get the oil to stick better. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Thanks for the comment and support. I've heard of the dusty road thing from some other folks - that's a good idea. My parents used to live on dirt roads that were oiled to control dust. Their cars got the oil and dust treatment all at once :)
@@randypond7499 Hey Randy. I didn't thin the oil. I used an automotive paint spray gun and used 40 P.S.I. Plus I opened up the nozzle as far as I could. It worked great.
Did you spray over the rubber parts or did you avoid them and use something like Silicone lubricant there? Or did the bushings, seals, boots, etc not get damaged even when oil was applied to them?
Just came across your videos about six weeks ago or so. I have a 97 F-150 on a quiet night and I have my windows open in my house I can hear it rusting.. your videos have been of great help to me. But this video makes me believe that we think alike keep up the great work thank you.
You can stop rust my friend - I know exactly how you feel - but you do have weapons. See this video too - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html or this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y05dNxt-nVc.html - Jerry
Just watched the video You recommended, and I get it. Having worked with a NASCAR crew back when it was the bush series, I don't need my truck to look perfect. A race car Fix is good enough for my truck. Every time I check out one of your videos I learn a little something.
Great video! I did nearly the same thing, except I melted several wax toilet bowl rings and mixed that with used motor oil....I have a 1994 GMC pickup with no rust after 27 years in Ohio salt!
I'm delighted I came across this video. To apply the oil mixture, I purchased a compressed air sure shot sprayer. I used the Rust Reformer spray before, but it was difficult to reach all portions of the car. The oil can infiltrate into previously unreachable areas using this method. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts.
You're welcome Naghi - I'm going to look into the sure shot sprayer - thanks for the information and input. If you get a new car try this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y05dNxt-nVc.html
For a long time i have used a cosmoline type of anti-rust (tectyl) coating mixed with a bit of oil to spray inside the frame rails, wheel wells and parts that are open, lately my wife was getting rid of some candles and I decided to blend candle wax and old oil into a home made cosmoline over a fire out in the yard. Seems like it will work just fine (has a scented aroma though). Great vid on putting oil into the rockers and what not. Here in WNY our average snow is 92 inches and a lot of salt is used. Your system works great. Mike
I like to use transmission fluid. It gets into the seams of the body pannels where water creeps into and covers everything. I leave a small pool of it in the bottom of the doors and it keeps itself fresh. You cant really put in too much because it will come out the drain holes. I'm in the rust belt with a 97 chevy pickup and I still have my rocker pannels and cab corners as well as solid door bottoms and fenders. Anywhere water can go this should go first.
Thanks so much for the comment and support. It really does work and doesn't really take that much work. It does the work for you by creeping around and eventually coating everything around it - have a good weekend :)
ATF does work great!! Good old Dex/Merc!! When I change the Hydro tranny fluid Super UDT in my Kubota Tractor, I rustproof all my vehicles with wonderful results. ATF, Hydraulic oil , motor oil , Bar & Chain oil all work fabulous
@@tommak6516 Any thin oil like ATF for interior enclosed box sections such as rocker panels. Exterior frame and suspension get "Black MaX" Bar and chain oil from Walmart at $10.00 a gallon. Heat the Chain oil in an electric Presto crock pot and spray it with a Schutz or Paint gun at 60psi - 80 psi.
I should have mentioned in the video that I just started treating the frame rails on this Kia w/in the last couple of years thus the rust flakes inside. If started when new it would be fine inside . A box frame on a another vehicle opened my eyes to how bad an enclosed frame section can get if not taken care of.
Greetings from northern Vermont!! Been Oil Rustproofing my vehicles since the 1990's using Bar & Chain oil. Have a nice 1997 GMC K1500 Suburban with a rust free frame and undercarriage. Best time to spray is SPRING so the heat of the summer wicks the oil into all the nooks and crannies. Motor oil , Atf, Bar oil etc all work great. TIP, for exterior surfaces, I heat the bar oil in an electric crock pot with some wax and spray it on with a Schutz Undercoat gun @ 40 - 80 psi. All the inner box sections get straight oil or ATF.. Great Video and thanks for posting
Wow Thomas- great information. Those are some great ideas, This as you know really does work well. Kept a Kia Sportage rust free for 20 years then sold it with 0 rust :)
You could get better coverage in he doors and frames if you used thin tubing to insert into the drilled holes this would allow the mixture to cover the whole of the internal areas. It clearly needs it given the rust you were disturbing when you hit the frame. Fully appreciate the logic of what your doing, think my suggestion might make it even better for you.
You're right, that would work well. I didn't start rust proofing the frame rails until a few years ago after I saw some box frames on vans and even ford trucks completely rot away. I have to catch up a bit. I didn't really worry about frame stuff until recently - now that cars are lasting 300 thousand miles, it's worth taking a look at.
Great video as always. I do this with my 2004 Toyota pickup truck. I live by the sea on the beach. No rust. I use ATF with a bit of waste motor oil about atf/wmo 75/25. Also I use a service gun with my compressor. It's faster and gets everywhere with the fine mist that then spreads. I use a lot. As you said you can never use too much. The truck drips a few days...marking territory
Thanks for the clarification about the frame rails; those rust flakes didn't inspire confidence. Still I think I would only apply the used oil on the exposed surfaces and use Fluid Film anywhere you are spraying into holes for better coverage; if not fluid film maybe transmission fluid inside the doors and fenders. A tip from someone else's video - use painter's tape to cover door drain holes long enough for transmission fluid or fluid film to soak into the pinch welds (or until the next rain).
There are absolutely better products out there but at the time I started doing this, I was in the middle of "middle class living" so.... I was living very frugal - always looking for ways to save $ and get ahead :)
Glad to see videos like this, these older ways are being lost and over shadowed bye false info. I use to mist my whole engine bay, and under side with wd40. And use WD on a rag to wipe down the weather stripping. Kept everything lasting a long time. Nice quiet cab with the weather stripping getting that love as well. Now it seems all I hear is how petroleum products are bad for rubber and plastic. It's just not what I have experienced.
I have used a lot of different items over the years but used motor oil is as good as any. The key is to do it at least yearly. You should use thinner stuff in crimped areas, oil is good as it does wick. One thing I have been doing lately is to spray fine saw dust on flat areas after oiling to prevent dripping and kind of stabilize the oil. It really works well. Sift saw dust through a screen then use one of those hand held siphoned sand blasters(HF) tank on bottom type. If it clogs momentarily put you finger over the end and give a short burst on trigger. Play around with air pressure lower works better. Before I do anything I take a blow gun to everything to get loose rust off. Put vinyl tubing on your blow gun and push it into the boxed frame to get the rust chunks out. Be creative! Have fun.
Very creative with the saw dust idea. I've heard of guys spraying it heavily with the oil then driving it down a dusty road to get that film you get on the trans pan or an old valve cover. I like your thinking 👍🛠
I've done this each fall on my 2004 and 2005 Le Sabres using WD-40 over the years. Pick-up trucks seem especially prone to rust at pinch welds. They need this process bad!
Nomatter what product one might use fluid film woolwax used or new oil the most important thing is they all work about equal if done on a regular basis at least one time yearly at minimum.nice viedo and your method is just fine and does work
Good Video!! I’m in Northern Mn., I’d like to do this or something similar (Fluidfilm /Woolwax) to some areas on my 2009 Silverado. QUESTION: As a body man, How will these treatments effect the body panels for adhesion of body filler, fiberglass, primer and paint?? (Rust repair) Any tips? I was thinking you would have to heat the panel slightly before the work to “burn off” the rust proofing?? Would it cause “Fish Eyes” in the paint?? Thanks!!
Great question. To be completely honest, it has no effect at all. The oil sort of stiffens up a bit after time and y the rain and you washing the car gets rid of all of it on the exterior of the panel, Before you do any body work you always wipe the panel super clean with wax and grease remover which takes care of any last residue left. I've painted this Kia once from an accident and one overall paint job and have had no issues with fish eyes. See this video for the paint job after 15 or so years of oiling panels: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2H3UHCgQu2Q.html
I found this video searching for uses for unused motor oil. Basically when I got a new car I still had unopened motor oil that is not recommended for my new car. I guess I could still use it on my car, but I suppose unused oil will have an even better affect on rusty parts?
Great video! I treated my car with this today. I tried 50/50 mix with mineral spirits and engine oil, but found out it caught in fire when lit with a lighter. I ended up mixing 10/90 mineral spirits and engine oil. It still boiled but didn't catch fire. Any idea why it may be? Would you recommend conventional mineral oil or synthetic oil? I used mineral oil for this. Thanks! Ps. I'm thinking if acetone would better but I think it is more flammable than mineral spirits.
I just used mineral spirits and used motor oil - took a torch to it AFTER it was sprayed on something and it would not ignite. Maybe if you poured it in a bowl it would ignite because of the fumes but when sprayed on something, I don't think there is enough fumes or atomization. If you are worried about it just let it sit until the spirits evaporate and just the oil is left :)
I like this way better than those incredibly messy sticky blends some people make with grease, oil, etc, etc. The mineral spirit mix is a great idea. Would give you a nice thin coat rather than a greasy thick layer. You could experiment with a lot of things lindseed, transmission fluid, chainsaw oil, wax etc. Probably doesn't matter much which in the end. I'd use fresh though cuz of the extra poisons in used oil.
will this work if you have a lil rust starting already? I have a lil paint rust starting.... maybe rub a lil with a oil wet Q tip? like to avoid sanding & fixing it that way
@@notsofast2325 I didn't know you could use baby or a lot of cheap baby oil.Or how that street?Wow thanks for the advice.I'll pass it onto my co.Workers
Wow! What another great video! Thanks for the tips, i will be doing thar to my ford ranger before winter , i live in massachusetts so we get the salt bad, and i just want to do what i can to keep it going as long as possible!
Great video I started to do this from last year and I will keep doing this evrey year on a long run it's well worth it very informative video thank you Jerry stay safe
Thanks - you stay safe too and thanks for the support on the topic - it does work along with many other products that folks have mentioned in the comments. Jerry
Hey thanks for making this video, i have one concern though the oil as we know is really sticky and the dust and salt will stick on that layer and even do more damage?
@@LakesideAutobody i noticed i had the factory underseal scraped in a small patch i applied some burned diesel oil to that part but that part had still the prime paint on, do you know if the engine oil will damage that paint, again thanks
What could I put inside my truck doors to stop them from ever rotting out please comment bacomment back could I use this same method thank you for this video we'll be doing it
When I was a kid getting your car oil sprayed before winter was a normal thing. If I remember they would add wax with used motor oil and spray it hot. You couldn’t park in the driveway for a week cuz it was dripping oil. I kinda thought they’d did away with that.
Thanks for the comment - I have had a few Canadians comment n having it done in the past too. Not sure if it's still legal to do it commercially now :)
@@LakesideAutobody Krown Rustproofing does it in Canada with their proprietary formula. They recommend annual touch ups. I think there is one franchise in MI, that I’m aware of, up in the Thumb.
@@bondpit8750 I've heard of this being done in Canada - heck, they should use used cooking oil from restaurants if they want it to be environmentally friendly.
@@LakesideAutobody Environmental concern has always stopped me from using petroleum products for body rust prevention. The concern for insect issues is what's always stopped from using food-based oils. Rust and I have always been a pair. I wish I could come up with something that I felt good about.
@@LakesideAutobody how long does a 50/50 mix of motor oil and mineral spirits need to dry before you can drive it in the rain? i just did my truck and don't want it to just get washed off. thanks in advance.
Thanks brother so much, for sharing your technic for rust prevention with us, the views. my question is, are those 02 kia sportage reliable? I would like to know. Thanks.
We've owned it since new. I can't say enough about it! No creaks or rattles in the suspension. Never touched the engine except for plugs and changing the oil. It's loaded and every button still works and everything works as it should - AC,window, power mirrors,etc. Runs awesome - starts every time. Still the same alternator and starter w/ 150,000 on it. Great ride - good power - 16 valve 4 cyl bullet proof engine. Incredible car/suv. We do take good care of it though - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody That's the issue. Ppl bring me autos with brakes gone, suspension broken for awhile, tires wore very bad. I try to kindly tell them a lil bit of care will go so far. Don't wait until it needs towed to have major issues fixed for ALOT more money when you can have it fixed and kept going nicely when they start to have a small issue.
question: doesn’t used motor oil have metal micro particles and metal shavings from the engine? Can these metal particles rust when exposed to road salt? thank you
No - believe it or not. I tested it on some sheet metal - could not get it to burn. I think the mineral spirits quickly evaporate or something. Good thinking David :)
Brake lines are an issue. Why? Because all the car companies used brake lines that were not able to resist the water that was absorbed by the brake fluid and rotted out the lines from the inside out. The brake fluid used is hydrophilic, and so absorbed moisture from the air. This is why you should have your hydraulic systems flushed periodically, and when you need to, have the lines replaced with stainless steel lines.
It's actually a Chiltons auto manual for my 2002 Sonoma. I sprayed the bushings with WD-40 a few days ago and I swear they plumped up. Weird, but what do I know 🙂@@LakesideAutobody
i have a 1970 gto judge . i bought it in 1972 for years it had a small oil leak .year ago i looked for rust and it had a coat of oil no rust . so that does work! here in 2021 no rust!
I haven't but I've heard that works well. This doesn't burst into flames for some reason when you spray it on metal then hit it with a torch. I wonder how it would do with the diesel or kerosene.
Great idea. I use straight used motor oil and spray it out of an old siphon feed paint gun @ 40psi. It gets a little messy, but works good. I'll have to try the 50-50 mix.
Could you plug up all the holes and fill the frame with an eco friendly rust remover? Let it sit for a while, drain by unplugging or drilling holes on the bottom of frame as suggested here. Once dried, spray this mix?
If I used ATF would that work just as well or better? Would you have to thin ATF with mineral spirits like you do motor oil or is it thin enough as is. Why do you thin the motor oil with mineral spirits? Just to spray better? Or does it penetrate metal/rust better?
Yes - just to spray it. I've yet to come up with something really easy and effective for the bottom of a car. Canada has businesses that will spray the underside with a waxy oily substance once a year - it's called Rust Check or something like that. You can try ATF - I've heard folks having good results - I suppose anything greasy or oily that will creep into the nooks and crannies :)
I sort of trust the mineral spirits because I sprayed some on a piece of metal and put the torch to it and it didn't ignite - not sure why but it did not start on fire. I'm thinking kerosene my catch fire easier - not sure though. I use used motor oil 'cause it's free but you can use anything really - like wd40, new motor oil, etc anything that will seep into the nooks and get thing greasy and prevent rust.
It's cheap and it works well on oil and oil based paints. Paint thinner - not lacquer thinner work well too and it's even cheaper. If you can think of anything else that would work or be cheaper or free let me know :)
I know this sounds crazy but you can wire wheel the entire underside of the vehicle and you can get some special zinc solution which is going to plate the steel in contact!
You can certainly wire wheel the underside. I'm not certain as to what the best coating would be though. Undercoating, paint, etc. seems to always peel, chip, trap moisture between the paint layer and metal, etc.
50/50 sprays well so if you want to get it on nice and even and cover a large area, you can spray it. The thicker oil can be used to squirt into panels and it "stays" longer, creeps around and eventually covers a large area like how your engine block or valve covers are greasy.
@@tamaica7770 Yes, that's it basically. You could brush the underneath of the car with some type of rust stop if you want. This is very common in Canada - they spray the underside of the cars with rust proofing liquid like wax/oil - not sure what it is :)
Hi i mixed 50 oil and 50 diesel.. can i just spray the whole under carriage? Or do i have to avoid thr rubber bushings or rubber in general? Let me know tnx
I've never had a problem spraying the whole under carriage - I do wipe the oil off of anything I think might not "like" it. Back in the 1970's my parents lived on dirt roads that were oiled to keep the dust down - they never had problems with rubber parts and oil.
I’ve seen cars from the 60’s that were oiled and they looked almost new underneath. I don’t know why more people don’t oil their frames instead of expensive woolwax or chassis saver/por
I'm confused. You say your method keeps things "looking like new". Then you bang on a frame rail to knock all the rust loose. So what is it, looking like new, or rusty but I think it looks like new?
I should have mentioned it in the video but I didn't start on the inside of the frame rails till a year or two ago after I saw a Ford truck w/ a box frame like that rust into pieces. I figured, I better drill some holes and see whats going on in there. I should have done it from day one and it would be like the rockers and the rest of the body panels. Good observation - just trying to share some info that worked for me.
@@LakesideAutobody I used to paint boat trailers that were used in a marine environment. Rigged up a long tube with a spray gun nozzle. Shove it into a frame rail from one end then pull it out as epoxy paint was released. Worked well.
I've never had a problem with it. After I spray the underside of the vehicle I wipe the rubber parts clean. Oil gets on rubber hoses and plastic in the engine compartment and there's never an issue so that may answer the question too :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah it's not bad. Kinda a tourist town so we get a lot of crazies in the summer lol. But there's a bit of everything. Got the lake n gorgeous beaches, tons of inland lakes for fishing, tons of woods n 2 tracks, n if sand is your thing silver lake sand dunes is like 20 minutes away
It's actually a cheaper form of mineral spirts. There's paint thinner (cheap mineral spirits) and then there is lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner is the one that's hard on OEM paint :)
Maybe - but not enough to cause harm I guess. This really does work well. Your goal is like an old greasy engine part or valve cover - they never rust.
Probably not because of the environmental stuff - but if someone is concerned with that you can use vegetable oil. With this car, I didn't even use a lift just did the doors, rockers, trunk lid, hood, fenders, etc from ground level - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y05dNxt-nVc.html
Lakeside, got a question have a 2000 s10 3rd door rear wheel drive rear upper wheel arch is bubbled and rusted I see they sale the rear upper arch panel online now do I lap weld the new panel and knock it down and use filler and sand it down and prime wheel arch are do I fine tune the new panel and just but weld it and grind the welds all the way down and use filler not using metal pieces to patch and fabricate the upper wheel arch wanna use the upper wheel arch template panel need your opinion???
Here's the truth. I've worked in 5 different body shops throughout my career and worked with a lot of different people. Not once have I ever seen a professional body man or woman butt weld a patch panel. On the edges and other rigid areas we butt weld because it's too difficult to tap the welds down. That being said, lap weld it with butts where necessary, grind it clean with 40 grit fiber resin disc, knock the welds down and any other high areas and fill it. Here's some more info on the topic if you feel like checking it out: Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for spots that can’t be knocked down like edges) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up, weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rpH50kh4W00.html * ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MfKlNQF-o4I.html * ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e9bjZ_UxtJg.html Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper thin metal and welds. Lap and Butt methods can work well if done properly so in the end it’s what works for you.. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-36zkc9UQaTs.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2o37dX--w0I.html Hope that helps you make a decision that works for you, Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you LakeSide I'm north of you here in michigan your videos and advice really helps me out I'm no where near a professional just a person trying to get by with the body work and welding never painted a vehicle at all but with your help and videos I feel very confident to tackle the painting job next year thank you sir!
@@robertw5008 You're welcome. Stick with me, keep asking ?'s, and keep at it. You'll make mistakes as everyone does but you'll get better and better with time:)
My car still has the seam sealer from the factory i want to apply used motor oil but i am afraid if it will react somehow with the factory sealer. What do you think can i use it?
It will not effect the seam sealer. I've been using it on many different cars new and used for years and have never noticed any damage to rubber, seam sealer, paint, etc. If in doubt wipe some on some seam sealer and check it out. You'll be able to better decide after wiping it off and seeing no ill effects at all.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the reply, another question :) when i wash my car with pressure washer will it remove the oil base or water alone wont affect it too much?
@@shkelqimaliu4126 It will remove some from the underside of the vehicle but that's OK because you really only care about the oil seeping into the nooks and crannies as usually that where the rust is the worst. You'll want to make sure the brake lines, fuel lines, etc. are nice and greasy eventually. It will take a few years or applications to get a greasy layer. When you squirt oil inside the panels, it will creep to the outside of the vehicle like up the doors, etc. but the pressure washer will remove that or you can just wipe it off. Here's another video on this concept - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html
uh oh i picked up oderless mineral spirits...looks like milk, can i use it? theres also food grade mineral spirits which is cheaper can i use it instead?
great info, I guess the mineral sprits is your diluent so you can spray it easily ? varsol or any solvent would work too you think ? what about wd 40 inside the tight spots like doors etc ? Thanks again for the info
Yes - works great - I used to use that but it costs money :) It's cleaner and works just fine - any type of liquid spray lube that penetrates will work great - even the inexpensive Walmart brand.
@@LakesideAutobody Sounds good - I got an 08 sierra, great truck, low mileage, playing catch up now , mechanical is great but I neglected the body, fixin some rust spots, welded in a wheel arch etc, undercarriage and body will get a good soak along the lines of this video. Your site has been a "go to" for everything I did so far - Thanks again!
Best and easiest solution is, buy a new synthetic engine oil and brush it up all the underneath surfaces of the car including suspension or any other equipment underneath of the car and this system apply after every one year then that car will never get rust I can guarantee 👉
@@baohoainguyen it's best after getting brand new car apply this technique but if old or used car in that case should remove fist extra rust whatever it possible then apply that technique
Just to thin it so the windex bottle would spray it. You can use a paint gun or something similar and not have to thin it. I just like the convenience of having the bottle handy if I need a quick squirt. Works well on rusty bolts too instead of expensive wd40 :)
Every year, I fill the frame of my old Jeep with straight, used motor oil, until it starts dripping back out. Then, I paint the frame with Rustoleum, high gloss black. I have had the Jeep 28 years and counting. It has no rust on the undercarriage at all. My goal is for a minimum of 35 years of ownership. I can likely get far more.
