I know it's five years old video, but thanks for posting the safe way to wire this unit. I am going to install a 220V 2KW one. For the AC input side, I will use a Tuya smart over under voltage protector from AliExpress with built-in timer and power consumption meter, and alongside with that a surge protector for maximum safety.
I've been looking at videos of this inverter and when I saw this one with the panel full of stuff, I thought I'd never be able to understand what was going on but you explained it all very well and I think I pretty much understood all of it. Good job.
Have used your fuse board set up thanks so much for your video. So helpful. I have a small one 340 watt panel and cheap grid tie inverter. New to solar but will get more into it. Well done.
make sure the timer contact can handle the line ac current, . for inductive load limit the contact rating to 30%, if only resistive load limit it to 80%, you can use a small contactor. the timer contact activates the contactor, the load passes thru the contactor.
I talked to an electrician today about this grid-tie inverter. We spent 30 minutes arguing that you don't need a battery because this is for the grid, not off-grid. He said I was going to catch the house on fire if I plug it in the wall. I sent him on his merry way.
I know there are some people that have successfully connected batteries to this Grid-Tie inverter, but I haven't done that with mine. I know that some people have indeed set their house on fire too....although I don't believe any of the fires were caused by the inverter device. Instead, the fires were caused by poor battery management and configuration. Be sure that whatever option you go with, you understand thoroughly and you have a good battery management system (BMS) in place.
Very interesting, I suppose it's still worth for most to inject back the power to the grid, simply because the top production hour of solar panel is usually not a time when you need the most power.
Model: TZG40-C is NOT DC Surge Protection Device!!!! TZG40-C - AC SPD 1P+N 20KA~40KA C ~385VAC !!!!!! But TZG40-PV is DC!!! You have one model ZG40-C for AC and DC! That's impossible! I watched your video you have at the input and output AC Surge Protection Device. Why?
Thanks for the great video. Does this unit have an internal limiter? I see it comes with an external, optional limiter. I have a long run from the main power to where I want to install the grid tie inverter, and was wondering if the internal limiter will adequately understand the amount of power my unit needs to produce. Also, what happens to the power that is limited if there are no batteries to dump it too. Does heat build up? Thanks I’m advance!
Yes, it comes with an internal limiter, not an external one. The internal limiter has a monitor clamp that can only be extended about 25 feet from the unit. Solar power does not require a dump load like a wind turbine does. Not, there is no heat build up.
Got everything ready but the inverter is on a slow boat from China. As I understand it, the top readout on the meter (cos) is the power factor, basically the ratio of useful power to total power.
I'm running a system that at times of days for a couple hours during the day will overproduce WITHOUT a limiter… Here's what happens.. the grid is happy to have the extra power you apply without having a net-metering contract. I can see on the smart meter -negative power usage during those hours, but on the power bill it shows only 0 use… SO at least with my power company Southern California Edison, they have taken the apparent policy of not caring because it benefits them to take your excess power and not pay you for it rather than shut you down. Your worry about overrating the outlets because of extra devices on the same circuit is incorrect. The power you produce is absorbed instantly by any appliances on that circuit and they only pull what they need. the rest is passed on. If they take 500 w of 1000 produced, your circuit will pull 0W from the grid, and pass on 500W to the grid. Your circuits are already circuit broken at the main panel at 15 or 20A generally. It is not possible for more power than that to flow through the circuit because even if you tried dumping 21 A at 120V from a bunch of inverters all hooked into the same circuit, the main panel breaker would blow at the first whiff of exceeding 20A and then your inverters would see the grid go down and shut themselves down…. While I applaud your caution, in your zeal to be extra cautious you may have introduced an unintentional danger to your system: While your "DC" disconnect is appropriate for cheaply manually disconnecting an AC pump outside your house, that disconnect from your solar panels is likely not appropriate as it is likely only AC rated. You must have a DC-rated quick disconnect specially made for DC setups with this consideration of design. It matters because DC tends to arc during connection and disconnection whereas AC because it keeps crossing 0 60 times per second self-extinguishes so you must have a specially constructed DC disconnect to not have tourble later with arc-burned contacts (and possible fire hazard)… If your disconnect ha a DC rating, I would be surprised, but this is something that you viewers need to be explicitly warned about lest they make this kind of error thinking an AC disconnect is the same as a DC disconnect as long as it is within the rated amount of amps. And also 500A AC and 500A DC would never be the same rating for the same device because DC amps heat up wires many times more than AC Amps because DC is continuously the same amperage while AC amps are a running average amperage.or peak amperage but not continuous amperage where when you hit the 0 crossing in any AC cycle, you have 0 amperage which gives wiring a brief respite to cool twice in every cycle that DC amps do not do hence one reason why DC requires so much thicker wires than AC, why they heat up so much more. Be very careful about this problem. You don't want your disconnect aricing in its contacts after just a few disconecct/reconnets and going down hill from there.
You are wrong. If you plug a 2000 Watt ( 17 amp ) inverter into a 20 amp circuit, you can now plug-in appliances that will draw a total of 37 AMPS through the wires that were designed for only 20 amps. This is 100% *illegal* per NEC !!!
The wiring instructions for my SVR1000/AD220 are different than what you show in the video. My instructions show the (+) is wired to the A1+ and #14 terminals , and terminal #11 at the bottom and terminal A2- are wired together to the (-) line. Your diagram shows terminal #11 wired to the (+) line going to the A1+ terminal. Any reason for the difference?
Not really sure since I’m not certain what you purchased. Sometimes the manufacturers make changes or modifications to their products. You might need to change the wiring to meet the requirements of the components you purchased. If things don’t work, you can always make changes.
@@jimginnyohio Thank you for your input. My relay is the same as yours. Maybe they did change something in the 5 years since you made your original video.
what does actually happen to your bill if you consume less then then the PV on the grid generates when you have a smart DU meter? would be charged for that extra units you have generated, when you have a SMART AC DIGITAL meter (DU). would you been charged for the exported units?
Just so you know, the way I have mine configured, I DO NOT export any power to the grid. However, I've heard some people report that if they have a Smart Meter and are not on a net meter plan, they have indeed been charged for the exported power. In cases where you are on a net meter plan, the power company would give you a credit for that exported power that you could draw from later. If you have a surplus at the end of the month/year, they would give you a check for the agreed amount.
Hi I don't think you should be grounding the DC surge protector to the house earth I think you need a separate DC earth rod at least 20ft away from any ac earth rod
Ok, thanks for that. I will research and make changes if necessary. I plan to install a grounding rod at my solar panel location. I will be sure to ground all outside components there.
And the DC-SPD is as well required at the PV array as well. So if you get a lightning strike the majority of the current will be grounded at the array already. So you would have 2 DC SPDs. The other thing is, pls use similar size wire as jumper wire. Electrons are normaly going the way of least resistance. If you use such thin jumper wires compared to the pv dc wire, it wont be very effective :). Like your system!
I'm a ham radio guy. My radio tower is bonded with the electrical ground. My solar panels are bonded with the electrical outlet and the radio tower. I use the air conditioner disconnect on the outside for my panels. It has it's own ground rod but is bonded by the near by tower. Very nice install.
I want to copy this system exactly as you've done it. How many PV panels did you use and what were their voltage? I have found some good priced 24 volt 300 watt panels, but I have a feeling that they won't work with your inverter. My other little question was when I install the dedicated circuit breaker, what gauge wire are you using? Are you using a a 20 amp breaker? are the wire gauges is that on the drawings?
I am using four Sainty Solar 255 watt panels.8.5A pmax, 30V pmax each. These are wired in series and parallel as shown in the inverter guide. I used a 15amp breaker, although you could use a 20amp breaker as well. I used 12 gauge wiring.
@@jimginnyohio My last of the devices came in yesterday. I can't seem to get the inverter to turn on during the tests. (The timer LED comes on when supposed to) I think I have the polarities swapped.
@@redmatrix Does the inverter turn on if you bypass the timer and other safety items? Be sure to check incoming voltage to insure panels are outputting correctly. Also double check all wiring, connections, and timer programming.
Hi, I have search everywhere for the same setup as you have (not feeding the grid). I have a question. On your setup. What you have is setup for 120volts, which only applies to one leg of the main panel. In order for me to use this setup, either I double it (for use of both legs of the main panel) or put the circuits I use during the day on the same leg as the inverter?
The answer to both questions is Yes. You could do either. Although, I would recommend using two inverters....one on each leg. It will cost more up front, but would be the safer alternative since your house was probably load balanced when the original circuits were installed.
Yes, but didn’t use the bus bar within the small enclosure. Instead, the ground wire extended out the back to a central ground that I used for all components.
I'm probably missing the obvious here but why couldn't you have wired a 240v plug to your electrical box and used the 240v inverter version instead of needing two 120 inverters?
Here in the US, we have two 120 volt circuits coming into our homes that are combined at the utility panel, giving us 240 volts split-phase. If I went with the 240 volt inverter, there is no way to connect the monitor clip to both of those circuits. The rest of the world only has one cable enter the house, so that single clip works well. However, in the US, things are different.
The power companies responsibility end at the meter. Your responsibility begins at the meter. As long as you do not export power they simply have no need to be involved.
You asked about what the upper LED was for on the power meter far right bottom. I think your answer is in the User's Guide that you can find HERE: (this should be right now): www.handsontec.com/dataspecs/Instruments/DIN%20Rail%20Power%20Meter.pdf
did try this but it is backfeeding to the grid ... no matter what i do, number a wrong, allways 10 to 30 off, and the more wattage there is the more it's wrong, can't use it
Are you using the limiter clamp that came with the device? Is the device set to “Limit Mode” and “Internal Limiter”? If using an after market limiter clamp, is it the SCT023R (100A:50mA)? If using the above (for 120v unit) things should work fine.
well seems to work now, i plugged one more ct clamp sensor, but let it open, the other is plugged in normaly ... and i don't know why ... but now the reading are good ... no feed to the grid anymore
Hi, Ken here, I am in the Philippines in the northern part, anyway I have a 2000 watt unit with a limiter, anyway It died yesterday, any repair, group that may give me some help . I got from aliexpess about 2 1/2 years ago I cant find group of the guy who has a group in the Philippines?
Please do a search on Facebook for a group called: SunG Grid Tie Inverter with limiter. There is a guy in there name Rogel Naval that sells, repairs, and provides much information for those devices for many people. He is also located in the Philippines. Good luck! I hope that helps out! ;-)
Moto Back to constitution I provided an item list in the video description. You will need to check the price on your own since there are multiple vendors you can get these items from and the prices change all the the time.
@@jimginnyohio awesome thank you for repry so quick. I think poor poeople 2nd most inportant or 1st most inportant things are price if you have ball park it will super help thank so quick awesom responce and your detailed awesom reserch and video exprience shearing sir. You are soooo awesom !!!
Many thanks for posting. Even myself being a retired pilot was able to grasp your walk-through and explanation of how you set-up your system. Retired here to the island of Phuket in S.W. Thailand where we are 220VAC, I’ve just received my 1000W GTI and am getting ready to install. Installing everything from the Disconnect Box thru to the Breakers. Timer, Surge Protector, etc will all be incorporated into my new system. Again….thanks for your concise and thorough explanation in your post.
No. Will Prowse doesn’t like the non-approved grid-tie devices. His stuff that connects to the grid is all certified and approved. Otherwise, his other devices are strictly off-grid.
Although this is good always get a professional to check as our strange regulations she may not know about or safety issues that have only recently been discovered such that they’re not in regulations but have been causing issues. Most of your safety concerns are okay in other countries simply because they don’t use the poor quality system implemented in America. It is worth knowing that certain circuit protective devices cannot operate with backfeeding power. You must always thoroughly check that with the manufacturer.
Cos is something with inductive load's probably...resistors have cos=1. Inductive load's have less than that up to 0.99 you can improve this with some capacitors Cos is on the every single phase motor as value so that you can add capacitors to improve that factors up near 1 so less inductive current in the wireless less heated wires...something like that... 👍
My smart meter will not let me put any amount of wattage even 100 watts into my system even if I'm using 1000 watts in my home. With out charges me for the 100 watts my grid tie inverter is putting in my system. I found out by using a e2 efergy monitor. I thought I was lowering my energy usage!
Your timer is not likely to save your inverter from a lighting hit just by mechanic of turning it off as lightning is static electricity and thus tends to jump across poles in switches bypassing them in its quiet to ground. Far better to install lightning clamping devices and make sure your panels are all properly grounded to a proper number of grounding rods. As far as the AC protection, lighting protection and a goo surge protector are all you really need. Your utilities are generally better regulated than you are giving them credit of. But in any case your inverters have their own internal limiters and provisions for brown-outs and over voltage conditions which they shut themselves down unless you r inverter is incredibly cheap.. Your AC breaker is curiously rated for 16A. I hope that's because all your circuits in your house are rated for 20A. None at 15A connected. 16 A is a very odd number. The cheap typical Kilowatt meter plugin I use don't lose their memory just for disconnection. They only reset their view on the screen to voltage but still retain their rolling usage and cost stastitics.
This is true. A lightning strike has such a fast rising edge that it contains radio frequency energy. RF is much more complicated to deal with and often does things to electronics that make no sense. You can have thousands of volts at one point on a length of copper wire and zero volts just a few inches away on the same piece of wire. I've repaired / tried to repair devices damaged by nearby strikes and have found the craziest things.
Very informative! Thanks for putting up your series of videos on these limiting inverters! I have a couple of question about the choice of the AC side circuit breakers. First, what was the reason for using 16A breakers? I would think 10A would be a better choice since the inverters are only capable of about 950W. The lowest voltage for service to homes in the US is 108vac, so the worst case current would be (950W / 108v) 8.8A. Just about the right size for a 120v system. A 16A breaker wouldn't open until the power climbed to at least (108v x 16A) 1728W, a lot more than what the inverter is capable of. The second question is about the choice of using two pole breakers instead of single pole breakers? I don't see any harm in doing so, since the earths are still connected, just wondering if there was a safety related reason for doing so?
US electrical code requires a Circuit breaker larger than your max load so if you have a 1000 watt inverter you want your circuit breaker to be a little larger than 1000 watts not smaller. This said you also do not want to over size your circuit breaker to much roughly only 10 percent. This will prevent your circuit breaker from tripping to often but tripping when a real over load occurs
... They should actually thank you for producing your own energy.. the coal generators are more expensive and harmfully to the environment... all grid tied system has standardized safety procedure to turn off when the grid goes down to protect those engineers troubleshooting the grid...what u can add is a hybrid inverter...which is connected to battery..and turn on when the power goes down or access solar power are saved on those battery when the grids down ...but im not sure yet if it is feeding into the grid...for our power engineers safety they should not...so we need a breaker to grid when the hybrid detects a power-down and turn on its off grid functions... and turn back on when its back automatically ..make lots of buck by saving them in long term investment..
personally I had to go to you tube settings and up the speed to 1.75 if that helps anyone and thank you for taking the to explain all in detail, much appriciated, liked
I know something about ordering from eBay too I know sometimes they might deliver to me within a month or two or three months but when you order something from eBay you do get it eventually and I'm going to say eventually I mean I did order something February 2020 and it did actually get me two of my orders by 2021 December 10th which I forgot all about but it was written down so I was able to find out why I got it I don't know if everything in eBay like that but I do believe they'll get me everything old I mean I still waiting for things I ordered back and February of 2020 I didn't get everything yet I don't think I ever will but it is what it is that I didn't spend very much money on it so I'm just calling in a pretty much a loss for half the stuff for already at least most of the stuff I know I ain't going to be able to get my money back on it and I was so busy I wasn't able to make a complaint about it within 180 days of ordering it because I had so much stuff I had to do at the time. I wonder if Google's the same way or if they'll get it to me in a timely fashion but I do know I ordered a bunch of different solar panels this year of 2022 from March 2nd I think it was maybe March 16th I got to look it up all the way down through half of July of this year that's when found out about the 180 day rule about if they got a problem with a product or if you don't actually receive it that you can complain about it I know when you complain about it to Amazon and they check it out oh yeah that's not where you live and they'll get me my money back but they won't take a product back it's been damaged by a forklift by a company who actually packaged it I know I still got the freezer it won't take it back and I complained about it well I was at work I think complain about it the next day when I saw it I still got the freezer still with a fork forklift hole in it and I don't know and scratched up on the side and beaten up but that came through Amazon through another business or whatever I guess what they told me that's one of those places to make freezers but at least the freezer does work I mean I had to make sure it didn't punch her any pipes and stuff like that because so I was lucky there I didn't clean any lines or anything so I'm surprised so the the freezer still works so this time I'm lucky at that part but I did try to complain about more than two days of actually receiving it but nothing came from it that way I ain't even called Amazon and told them they emailed them and stuff like that but nothing ever happened they never wanted it back they were never going to reimburse my money or anything about it they just laughed at me and whatever else not.
Jimmy I want to do a system to power some crypto mining, i want a 5k system is that double? How many panels is in a 1000 watt system? how are you mounting them on your house dont want any leaks.
The worst thing about ordering from China as you may not get everything you order or anything you order due to Wisconsin doesn't exist on the United States of America I don't know why I mean is it is in the United States of America but China can never seem to find it so when you order something they deliver it to California this the ship it 4 hours away and drop it off and in California to where it's belongs why not it's not Wisconsin but that's what they say it belongs or the ship it all the way to Texas and say it belongs there that's what a person order it no I'm from Wisconsin and they say it's good but they never do get it to my house and yet I order it out of Wisconsin or if they might be able to find your house Austin is international trade taxes get out of pain you don't know nothing about that or how they even do that and that's one thing I would think they'll charge you when you're buying the product is the international trade tax that would be on the product so that you would actually get it but then if they would have done that I probably still want to get the product cuz New York it looks more like Wisconsin and then deliver it up there I don't know cuz no one can seem to find Wisconsin from China they don't know how to write down what you write or read a computer that says Wisconsin so they're thinking Wisconsin's not in Wisconsin they think of Wisconsin is not actually a place that's the worst thing about buying something from Wisconsin and then losing thousands of dollars over the deal and never be able to get the money back.
17:32 - No you don't want to pull air out of it. Positive pressure (pushing air in) is always better for the fresh air to reach everywhere in the box. When you are sucking out the air is drawn from a very limited space near the fan.
Informative description of safety y switches. Thanks Jimmy. The “cos” I think is the cos factor or power factor. You can look up descriptions of using the power factor information as read by the meter.but in essence the power factor of a load is defined as the ratio of active power to apparent power, i.e. kW divided by kVA and in mathematical terms is referred to as cos Ø. Cheers.
mr. Naval is a seller on the on line store lazada the main difference is the warranty , he has 3 year warranty and ali is only one year. Since I am here in the Philippines it makes sense to get from mr. Naval his stuff has 3 year warranty
George here...Jim, in your video, you placed an AC SPD in the panel box thru which the 120V AC output of the inverter is passing through. Don't you think it is better to put this AC SPD in the AC line coming in from your electricity supplier (YES-the grid). Any surge coming in from outside ... from the grid will be "caught" by this AC SPD ... thus protecting your entire distribution circuits in your mains panel board ... including your exclusive 120 volt outlet for your inverter output. From the looks of it, you are just protecting your GTIL INVERTER but not your other house appliances - unless, of course, you already have an AC SPD at the entrance of your house main lines.
thats what I did, put the spd before the breaker, I believe it is better so. And put a thick ground wire #6 direct to the earth rod so lighting surge can flow to ground better.
My friend.I have a 2 KW on-grid inverter 220volt AC.The incoming voltage from solar panels is 68v DC and the amperage is 30 Ampere.My upper voltage incoming from solar MUST BE LESS than 90 volts.Is a protection the knwledge of the existing panels that offer 68volt enough OR i have to install an upper /lower voltage controller for the panels DC incoming voltage???Is there a device that i can adjust Max permissible incoming voltage = 90 volts ????Thank you
My understanding is that when one gets the 240V version you must get a second camp on limiter to make it work right in the USA. These units only come with one camp on limiter.
@jimginnyohio First off great video and presentation. I have a question, what would happen if I followed your exact setup except on the inverter side input have it hooked up to a 48v battery array with the battery hooked up to a MPPT charger and solar. The thought behind this is to be able to use it at night too?
There are others that have done just that. If you do that, be sure to limit the power coming from the batteries into the GTI. Otherwise, it will run at full power constantly and drain the batteries quickly. You can limit that from within the GTI menu. One of the RU-vidrs I recall doing that was Old Time Engineer. Look up some of his videos. There are others too, but I can't recall their names at the moment. Good luck!
Great video I'm curious I have a grid-tied inverter but its range is 36 volts however all of my panels are 41 volts is there a way to lower the voltage on the panels so they can meet the range of the grid-tied inverter and I can start using it thank you
Dear Friend.Thank you for your kind responce to my questions. For 2 years now i operate the 2kw SUN grid tie inverter .The panel input is almost 2,2 Kw and the output of the inverter in AC is 1450 watt.So i decided to add 2 more panels giving him as a solar panel input 85 volts dc at 32 Ampere.I have not exceed 90 volts as the machine instructs. So make it simple.The power that the inverter gets to convert to AC is 85 x 32 = 2720 WATT. The actual output in the screen is 1890 WATT. which means that at 2720 watt has a loss of 830 watt. At 100 Watt how much.We find...a loss of 30,5 watt in every 100 watt input power.Which finally means that the efficiency of this inverter is 69,5 %.which means that choosing this inverter you must have in mind that you have to add about 800 watt on top of its nominal written output 2KW.....I would be pleased if you tell me honestly whats the solar panel power you feed this 2 kw inverter and what it gives you. Thank you very much.
Please keep in mind that just because your panels are rated for a certain wattage, does NOT mean they will output at full power. There will always be losses in the wires and all connecting points too. Also yes, these are inexpensively made devices that are not as efficient as higher cost inverters. It's best to keep experimenting to see what works best for your particular equipment and situations. Sorry that I'm not able to provide better details!
@@jimginnyohio You highlight that'' There will always be losses in the wires and all connecting points in the wire bends...etc.'' But please take in account that the measurements that took were at the input point of the inverter.With a high orecision Volt meter and a special DC clamp meter.The measurements were correct.So i noticed that in order for this SUN 2KW inverters to ''approach'' the nominal as they advertice AC power of 2 KW people have to connect almost solar panels in order to give 2800 or even 3000 Watt....This is the point.....Truth can not be hidden in our technical world.....by NOBODY. Thank you very much.Respectifully .
Not elaborate or expensive. I wanted to insure things were safe and equipment is protected since I’ve seen so many people post videos about these and they burn up within a year. Mine has been running for 3+ years now without a hiccup. Yes, I’m able to run critical loads in my house when the grid goes down since I have 10+ kWh of battery storage. I can supplement that with the grid tie inverter too since I have that circuit included with my critical loads.
I got the SVR1000/220AD Over/Under voltage regulator and it does not seem to show how to wire up to a 240V split system we have here in the US. Do I need two of these regulators and run the two 120V lines separately?
@@jimginnyohio Thank you for the reply. I emailed the company that makes the SVR1000 and they said just hook it up to one 120V leg as shown in the instructions. So I do not know how this device will monitor the other 120V leg but that is what they told me. I think I will ask this question on the facebook group you mentioned and see what they say. I will keep you informed.
The facebook group you mentioned did not have a good idea either. They thought maybe to use two regulators, one for reach 120V leg. So that is the approach I am going to use.
Can you help me understand the order to add these safety devices on the AC side when connecting to a hybrid controller that has both AC in and AC out? I assume put all 5 (timer, volt protector, surge, breaker, and meter) on the "DC output" leg rather than the DC input leg... Thank you.
Sorry, but I wouldn’t know how to answer that without knowing specifically what you are connecting to. The components I listed for this are designed specifically for use with the controller I am using.
why can't you use a 240 inverter. one leg for each side of the panel. as shown here, its is right to say only every other breaker will be supported by the inverter?
jimginnyohio hmmm.. wonder if there are and R&D plans to rectify this. Software upgrade etc? would be nice to support both legs with a split phase GTinverter
Jim, I may be wrong but the AC wiring diagram presented in this youtube video does not match the actual AC circuit wired later in the video. I purchased the components and would like to wire them correctly.
Hi Mike - The diagram is correct. There is one section in the video were I did not have everything fully configured...I can't remember exactly where, but I seem to recall I didn't have one of the ground wires in place yet. I know that many others have used the diagrams successfully and without any issues. Thanks for checking! Best wishes!
@@jimginnyohio Thanks for your quick response. I just wish the components from China arrive on the same schedule. Most came in but 3 important components are already one month late. I know this is not novel news but just the way it goes.
I'm planning to use this inverter. Is there a way to store surplus power from the solar panels, ie I've seen a video about adding hybrid inverter and batteries combining the grid tie inverter (non limiter inverter)
Yes, there are several people that have posted videos for how to add batteries to these inverters. Check out Old Time Engineer’s channel. There are several others too...just do a search in YT and you will find those. Sorry, but I haven’t added batteries for mine.
A quick suggestion on the solar input wiring diagram (Minute 15:32). The DC Surge Protection Device or SPD should be fed from the 20A circuit breaker output. This is because Metal Oxide Varistors (MOVs) inside SPDs can develop short-circuits after arresting voltage spikes and transients. Should the 600VDC SPD short-circuit then the 20A breaker will trip to protect connected PV panels (i.e. if they can produce sufficient short-circuit current to trip the Curve C breaker). The SPD on the AC output side is wired correctly.
OK, I looked into that a little more and here is what I found.... This particular SPD and Breaker is meant to protect everything from the inverter into the home instead of outside to the panels. Therefore, I believe it is correctly wired as is. Please note that I plan to install another quick disconnect box, breaker and SPD outside at the panel location. I plan to wire that SPD to protect the panels. I hope that makes more sense and paints a clearer picture. :-)
This is good comment, making me think about this for my system. For the DC side, if the DC SPD has been hit by lightning, or maybe from age and many smaller voltage spikes, then it will be shorted internally to ground, protecting the circuit. When the sun comes out, on the DC input side, the solar panels will be outputting voltage but are short circuited through the SPD. So the wire on that DC side to the SPD and to ground, should be sized to handle the short circuit current of the solar panels as wired. I guess your 4 DC panels are in series to the grid tie inverter?, so probably 10 amps or so maximum from the panels.
A . . . good effort but you need to put rubber grommets on all the passthroughs and fill every ground terminal regardless of redundancy . Take your test after paying your payola . Passing your test has absolutely nothing to do with being qualified . The Edison descendants will never let you in no matter what . Install the pass through grommets and remember anytime you have the grid connected your house can be burnt down with a serge programed anywhere on earth and you will be prosecuted held liable for damage to the system your violating . Thanks
Hello. There is no link. However, I provided a wiring diagram beginning at 15:39 in the video. You can freeze the video there and capture screenshots. Also, there are several places in the video where you can see the actual wiring. Can can pause the video there too.
In mathematics, sine and cosine are trigonometric functions of an angle. The sine and cosine of an acute angle are defined in the context of a right triangle: for the specified angle, its sine is the ratio of the length of the side that is opposite that angle to the length of the longest side of the triangle (the hypotenuse), and the cosine is the ratio of the length of the adjacent leg to that of the hypotenuse. For an angle {\displaystyle \theta }\theta , the sine and cosine functions are denoted simply as {\displaystyle \sin \theta }\sin \theta and {\displaystyle \cos \theta }\cos \theta.[1]
