I hope this answers some questions you all had. If you have any others please feel free to leave a comment below! ➡ Parts List Here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RURSDKi4mr7ZtlxQn_WsOfyvPrmm9mRE22R6rojoolY/edit?usp=sharing ➡ Check out Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=zwzcpllh ("ChumpChangeXD" For $50 Off) ➡ Check out Tangem: tangem.com/pricing/?promocode=CCXD
You can reduce your costs by eliminating the rafter in the middle of the panels. The panels are designed to be supported purely from the sides. In fact, they are usually supported at only four points on the sides, so supporting the entire length of both sides is already more support than the panels are used to. But I think it looks a lot nicer with the extra rafters.
Thanks man, I hope it helps!!! If I can suggest one thing put rocks around the poles when filling in the hole instead of dirt I plan to eventually do this I just didn’t have any on hand at the time. It will help prevent rot. Good luck! 🤙🏻
@@ChumpChangeXD Any specific type of rocks that you would suggest to use (pebble type, rounded, any)? I ask because some rock formations can allow more space where water can fill into
Looks great! Two things I probably would've done differently is make it three panels wide instead of two (more usable room, better aesthetics, and more solar), and I'm not a fan of having the PT buried in the ground like that... It will rot far quicker than the rest of the structure, yet it's structurally the most critical.
Hey buddy, when wiring it all up remember to make the negative cable just as long as that 50ft positive cable. Many people have positive and negative landed in a combiner box in the middle so that voltage losses are balanced and minimal. The. They run their lines from the combiner box to the inverter.
Love the build! Could be different out east, but here in the PNW I wouldn’t use PT lumber for anything that isn’t contacting the ground. Out here, PT has a shorter lifespan than untreated Doug fir and way shorter than cedar.
If you ran the strings every other panel.. skipping a panel till you get to the end you can come back via the panels you skipped and it saves the 50ft run of wire and voltage drop
As I understand his configurations he has two strings.. the top and the bottom.. with two 50ft runs of wire to the end of the pergola.. my suggestion is to leap frog a panel every other one on the top one way.. and leap frog the panels back (staying on the top row. ). This removes one run of 50ft. Doing the same on the bottom.. saves another 50ft run.
Hell yeah. Looks great! I vote to cut back the side of the 2x8 overhang. With the longer length, it reminds me of a Japanese Torii. You’re going for a pergola…not a pagoda! 😂
Great job on the built. Looking to build something similar. Have you been able to check if the silicone does its job of no water leaks in between the solar panels?
nice job i would try testing how much reflectors could do by putting a reflective surface on the ground, maby some mylar sheets from the first aid kit most of all on a cloudy day, thats where bifacial should make a big difference compared to normal panels it would be posible to add reflectors to the construction, for example 5-10cm under the panels and the end of the panels but optimal the more distance to the reflector the better (bifacial works best in around 4 m hight) it would also fit the structure with some sort of floor, i would kind of look like you wanted to use it to sit under
I'm looking to build this exact model, size and everything. What did you do for grounding? My permits require a ground of the array for better or worse. Love the build though regardless!
Thanks brotha in the other videos following I give a full list of materials I used and when I wire the panels I ground them also which is a different video on the channel 🙏🏻🤙🏻
@@ChumpChangeXD I was telling you that you could have made the conductors going to the house from the same end and not run the extra wire all the way along the others. Maybe saved 100’ of wire? Great job overall!
Old you send a link to the metal fasteners/clips to attach the rafters to the panels. Most products are designed for metal to metal but here you are attaching wood to metal
I wasn't able to find the clips in the list. And I do have a method which just proved that it doesn't work😢 So I'm curious what the exact parts are you used to fasten the panels.
Nice Neat work man. As a Carpenter I give this a SOLID thumbs up 👍 What's your total Solar Capacity including your original setup? I'm at 8kw right now, thinking about throwing a few more panels after watching this.
Looks Great! I would recommend painting the wood white to help protect it, and reflect more light to the bottom of the panels from seeing the way the sun hits the bottom on your last video..
This is just for the pergola itself not the solar stuff. I go over the solar kit and have a link to Signature Solar in a previous video. The wiring I will be doing in another video as well when I run it across the ground over to the location it’s going
I'm loving this build video series! The only thing left is to run in some eye lags under the side overhangs for hanging flower pots to make the wifey happy! haha
This is the best video I have found explaining sizing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TJBGbufexEM.htmlsi=Y4Wtx_ECliKyx7L- DIY with Will Prowse is legit the Mr Rogers of solar lol.
thanks, so based on that calculation, if I'm not wrong, 100W KS0 Ultra x 19 hours no sun = 1900wh 12v x 200ah battery = 2400wh 2400wh/5hr sun = 480w panel for margin better use 1pc 550+ w solar so I need 1 12v 200ah battery 1 550w solar panel seems right.. rough solar stuff roi estimate, 14 month, (edit)
Looks really good, BUT as a carpenter and engineer, I have to say you didn’t stick to the basics of construction wood protection. When it rains, those overhanging beams and surfaces will soak up water like a sponge
@@ChumpChangeXD In the long run, the wood will rot and in 3-5 years, it’ll become unstable. Best would be to make sure water does not touch it by covering it with metal sheets that open up just a bit at the bottom to stop water creeping in. You can treat the wood additionally, but this alone will not stop the rot. It would be a shame to see it become unstable after such a short time. Also , I didn’t see in the video, I recommend to use a galvanised iron brace to keep it from ground contact. 10 cm if you have gravel around the posts, 20 cm if not. Rain will reflect of the ground and spray the bottom part of the posts. If you have gravel, it’s better because you avoid puddles
You know deck posts are typically pressure treated and last for Years (10-20 easily IMO) with no additional treatment. I think I’ll take my chances on the end boards in this scenario. My last house had a second-floor addition with 6 x 6 pressure treated posts holding up the overhang 6 feet off of my first floor. This was all 100% inspected and there was no talk of treating the posts or anything because of rotting, as it was already pre-treated wood. I agree with the posts in the ground tho. The dirt around them 100% will not help. I will change this out with rocks eventually
Pressure treated lumber and hot dip galvanized lag bolts last a long time. I have an *untreated* stained wood fence that has survived four years in Georgia rain, heat, and freezing. I have a pressure treated stair set that’s about half the same age but has had the same conditions and is as good as new. One thing you should do is get pressure treated wood post cut solution (which I think is mostly Borax and a couple additives) to maintain protection against rot. Personally, I’d paint it with quality outdoor acrylic paint for aesthetic reasons, which would help protect it as well.
Sorry to say this, but your pergola doesn't meet code. It is a fire hazard, and although most will say it doesn't matter as long as it's not on your homes roof, this is what will happen sooner or later. Your home insurer will cancel your coverage. Worse yet, if a fire destroys your home, they will deny coverage.
@@PocketChangeXDI also would like to know why and how this is a fire hazard and leads to cancelled coverages because I would like to do a project like this as well.
This guy is trolling. Only thing I'd advise is mounting brackets on a metal frame, then onto the pergola, but as long as there are no issues with the panels, many companies have done the same.
