This was 100 % the best sound prooffng video I've seen, I have very noisy neighbours, and I've been watching hours of RU-vid videos to figure out the best course of action...
@@danjackson2014 I will check but I’m pretty sure the materials featured on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing course are available in Spain. They are German and Italian products.
My walls are soundproof enough that at most you can make out muffled conversation, but impact noises are INSANE. I'd rather live in a top floor flat again than a terrace.
@@jimprior7 Mine is exactly the same.. I can almost never hear conversations or TV, but if they bump the wall, plug something into the electrical socket, it sounds like it's in my room. It's a double brick wall with Dot/Dab Plasterboard either side. I assume the electrical cables are cut into channels in the bricks, and that sound is resonating in those. Would you agree?
Hey @@kramermartinezz, This weeks video as part of the ‘how do i soundproof my house’ series is New Builds. Currently editing it and should be out by the weekend. It explains why. The impact noise are really bad in the newer properties for a number of reasons…but the main causes are Aerated blocks, rigid insulation, hollow stud walls and hollow ceiling voids…the dot and dab then amplifies these noise even more. Thanks for your comment, thanks for watching.
Hey Agron8576, yes RWA45 is ok, just try not to stuff it in too tight. You can always upgrade it by installing some MLV or TecSound sandwich between the slabs of RWA45 if you have the space between your joists. What we teach and install our selves is RW3. Nice question. If you have a flat….Have you seen this latest video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0OSrzTPM1cw.html Thanks for watching 🙏
how can you build a stud wall without fixing to floor and ceiling, won't it want to fall over? Few years ago now I built a stud wall against party wall, inch short of flanking walls, no fixings into party wall but I fixed to the floor and ceiling, floor and ceiling beams did run parallel to party wall luckily. I used 38x63mm with 38mm as wall depth, with space total 50mm gap, expanding foam between studs and party wall made very firm, filled with the 50mm Rockwool sound batts, covered wall with bituminous carpet tiles then one layer of 12.5 plaster board, so a very lower cost affair but made a huge difference. I am sure what you have done here is super sound proofing , just struggle to imagine a completely floating wall not fixed anywhere?
I hope the video helps, the floating frame has a top plate and a bottom plate that is decoupled from the floor and ceiling using anti-vibration pads. Its fixed using pressure and pads. Our residential installations we offer 10 year guarantee with all of our work we are that confident it won’t fall over. On the £699 DIY soundproofing course we show you step by step how to do it as part of one of the wall systems you could install to the separating party wall, however on the course as a DIYer we recommend you put a couple of mechanical fixings to secure the frame. Your lower cost systems sounds brilliant and I can see how the different layers you have used has reduced the different frequencies of noise coming through. Nice work! Thanks for sharing and I hope a lot of DIYers on a budget can get inspiration from your wall system you have designed. Thanks very much for your question.
Join Jim on the NEW Soundproofing Master Class, it’s free to attend and what is quite refreshing….there is nothing to buy at the end, its just pure content and he hopes you get value from it. Here is the link to register: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
10 месяцев назад
Hi! I am in Portugal and the materials available are different. I can’t find mlv anywhere for example. What’s the equivalent? Do you know? Thanks
Hi ...sorry for the late reply....been out the office. OK, there is plenty of other materials you can use instead of MLV....what is your noise problem?
this timestamp for me. But living in California houses are constructed very differently, ours ues to be Military Housing meaning there not made of Brick Ect there just bacis materials wood and nails. But the Area i am trying to Sound Proof is a gargare that has not yet ben isolated. Going to Be Converted into a Room for folks too sleep in, but Naghbors Dog started being real Annoying... The Ceiling has not been sealed yet can see the 2x4's guess saves me time, the concerning wall on the other have is covered with Three Ply Wood Panles which would have to be removed also the Floor is Cement would be able to do same as in this video. Would that be a problem for the sound proofing? is it possible to sound Proof one side of the wall? after all its only a Dog but if i am will to sound proof know that creature is annoying... Hopfully can A: my Q: and Thank You very much for other video. Excues if this Paragragh in parts does not make sense when back to fit in sentences, and the Annoyance got to me to clean it up Truly Sorry.
Yes, you can absolutely apply this system to the plywood wood, glue the rubber panels to the plywood to stop is resonating. Then install the frame infront with a 25mm gap from the rubber. Also if you can insulate the existing wall before installing the rubber that would be best.
The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course has a materials calculation tool included….for this particular wall system installed to the direct noise path of the party wall, the materials costs: £1,000. (there are many cheaper alternatives and you can also upgrade it further)
The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course has a materials calculation tool included….for this particular wall system installed to the direct noise path of the party wall, the materials costs: £1,000. (there are many cheaper alternatives and you can also upgrade it further)
I'm in Switzerland. I can't make major changes, but I was thinking of dying something not permanent (for example building a second wall in front of the permanent one, but I do have a cavity behind my walls so maybe it's not the best idea)
Hi @ganeshayoga, If you have a quick look at this video about 11:26 mins in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CR7ZtJ3fI2c.html Is that what you mean ....or do you mean for Noisy Neighbours in an a flat or apartment?
After attaching rubber to the wall, would inbuilt (floor to ceiling) wardrobes be a good way of utilising the lost space that sound proofing needs, if the wardrobes were full of cloths, it should help as well. I did a job in London where we hung a thin lead blanket that had sponge glued to both sides over the top of partition walls, in order to stop noise from each office.
Yes, you will feel a noticeable difference, as long as the wardrobes do not have a backing to them…ie you see the rubber at the back behind your cloths…otherwise the sound will resonate and channel into other rooms.
What a great video, and it sounds like you're not just trying to apply the same methodologies to all your installations, but you're taking each iteration and making general improvements while also customizing as needed; thanks very much for this!
Hi! I consulted with a local soundproofing contractor to soundproof wall to my neighbor. They say they will only use Rockwool material. What do you think about this? Is using only rockwool enough for soundproofing wall?
Hi @Kaptenkopet, they must be using something else as well? Do you need consultation advice, with a wall specification? jimprior.com/work-with-me/ Or Have you seen this video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a wall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rHU7mnu6-zM.html
I live on a corner property with horns blowing etc. My walls are brick and cinderblock. do you recommend the rubber membrane and where do you get the material? thank you
Please shop around, i'm not a materials supplier but here is a really good supplier I use. M20AD 20mm rubber www.floorscan.co.uk/product/m20-rubber-sheets/
A room like that would cost over £10k done for you by our installation teams….however the Soundproofing Course shows you exactly how you can do it yourself if you can cut and measure as a DIYer. Materials would be a fraction of that, materials calculations tools are all available in the course platform. Hope that helps
@@jimprior7 I was interested because I’m a boarder and from my experience I believe it would be impossible to secure constant work in your own area with such high costs, maybe if you travel the length and breath of the country you could find enough people willing to pay those prices.
@Happy Truth Not everyone can afford an installation experience with us, which is why the online courses, I can help out more people, at a fraction of the costs. I have 3 installation teams doing installations within an hour drive of Leamington Spa, we travel further than this about 4 times a year for a 2 week installation. We are finding that noise in homes is not going away by its self, they are continuing to build homes with a noise problem, taking thermal values more seriously than noise. Almost every home you buy now has been renovated with building materials and techniques that make noise worse in homes. Builders will need to learn all this stuff as the demand for more peaceful homes increases. @@Happytruth
Jim, I live in a condo, I'm a golf instructor. I have a golf simulator in my condo. My neighbor on the opposite wall says he can hear the ball hitting the screen. What would you recommend to soundproof the wall?
Hey Dalton, How about I come and do it for a free golf lesson? 😂 I reckon the neighbor might be hearing the strike of the clubface hitting the ball and that vibration rather ball hitting the screen? Could that be possible? I think you need to try a few things first before spending loads of money on soundproofing: - Try placing piece of 20mm anti-vibration rubber matting under the tee, - Installing sound absorption panels to the ceiling and wall of the simulator to dampen the strike of the ball. - Consider anti-vibration pads where the screen is connected to the structure of the building. Also, Dalton, what is your tee mounted on? Not a hollow box with grass over the top is it? If that fails, then it's a lot more money... No doubt if the club you are using is a driver and some woods, then when you strike the ball, that loud sound will enter the structure of the building. This means the ceiling, walls, and floor need to be soundproofed by isolating them from the structure, especially if your condo is concrete construction. You can do this with a genie clip and channel system or a basic resilient bar system and two layers of acoustic plasterboard. Thanks very much and great question I hope that helps and please let us know how you get on.
The method for fixing the rubber we show you in the course how you fix it to every surface in including masonry. Two different types of adhesive, one to grab and another to form a resilient layer 👍
Hi Jim. I’m looking at getting blown insulation into my floor (through my neighbors ceiling) how effective do you think this will be? What material would you reccomend?
Thanks very much for your comment and thanks for watching. If it must be 'blown -in' insulation then I would suggest a mineral wool, earthwool type 'blown-in' insulation. If the ceiling void is currently hollow you will feel a noticeable human perceived reduction in noise if you get to every hollow void. Impact noise such as foot fall, furniture moving, clonking and clanging will still remain but sound different after. Those noises are only reduced with floating floors and independent ceilings. From my installation experience I would say it is always better to pull up the floor (if possible) and insulate with a Rockwool slab. AVOID foam and polystyrene type insulation as this will make the impact noise feel louder. Before you invest, Next time your neighbour is making noise...put your ear on the walls (finger in one ear and the other ear against the walls). How much noise is transmitting down the walls? If you are hear noise down the walls....you may not get much reduction in noise from that blown insulation alone.
20mm rubber which is available in most countries, Mass loaded Vinyl, visco elastic membranes. Glued to the conflicting wall surface using two different types of adhesive: Spray contact adhesive www.pcdsales.co.uk/probonder-sp-contact-adhesive-500ml?tracking=651c2ed927fd1
Hi Tim, that wall system we applied to the party wall is a total of 175mm, the window wall 50mm and the separating wall between the front and back bedroom 35mm, the ceiling 18mm thick. What is your noise problem?....as you might not need such a thick system.
@@jimprior7 Thanks for the reply, we could just about loose 100mm (small room sizes). We have a victorian mid terace granite house in Cornwall. the party wall is one brick thick, so we can hear coughing etc from next door, the single skin wall is simply plastered. We could strip back and put some dampening and then a floating system and some rockwall perhaps.
@@timridley1 Hey Tim, Here is a 100mm system for you: - Sound dampen the wall with 10kg/m2 self adhesive TecSound - Install 2 x 2 battens on small anti-vibration pads (80mm screws and brown rawl plugs) - Install 50mm RW3 rockwool between the battens - Install 5kg/m2 acoustic barrier matting (MLV - Must be 5kg/m2) to the battens - Resilient bars (16mm thick) as per this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7OdKIEmpbWM.html - 2 x layers of 15mm sound bloc board (Add TecSound between board for upgrade) We achieve 70% reduction in airborne and 50% with reduction on impact noise with this system (there is a video on it somewhere on the channel) Tuck it up and tuck it down! Do you hear the neighbours on the flanking window wall like our home owners did in this video?
Hi Jim! Super helpful content and very user friendly! I have a question - after sound deadening the brick wall with tecsound, how do you attach the acoustic plasterboard to the tecsound?is it with adhesives? Or mechanically?
Hi @Mubashiryasin7164, thanks for your comment, if you are sound deadening a wall with TecSound, I would recommend installing insulated battens over the top of the TecSound like I share in this video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a wall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rHU7mnu6-zM.html If you really do not have the space to install the battens, then YES, you may have to mechanically fix the acoustic sound bloc board to the TecSound but then glue the next layers in the way we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. Is this for a party wall?...or a flanking wall? Hope that helps
@@jimprior7 many thanks for your prompt response! It is for the flanking walls - i will be doing the battons for the party wall but wasn’t sure how yoy get the insulated soundbloc plasterboard onto the tecsound. Also - is tecsound ok to stick directly to the bricks…as one suppliers website said it wasn’t but i know your vidoes suggest it can be. Thanks
I’m preparing to fix a failed attempt. I wish learned previously what you teach regarding how you must sound deaden the wall. I am planning on adhering 8 mm gym flooring matting to my concrete block wall. They sell a rubber liquid you can coat concrete block with for moisture control. Would it significantly improve my results to apply a rubber coating to the concrete before the gym rubber?
Hi Mr Dilbert111, The rubber we use is a bit like a heavy duty cork, found on some gym floors and kids playgrounds. It’s more like an anti-vibration matting. We find when you apply a mass loaded vinyl to the wall directly like a 5mm 10kg/m2 MLV, it can especially with light weight blocks, channel the noise into other rooms and hollow voids. Just check that the 8mm rubber you want to use is not so dense that is actually channels the noise into other rooms. Can you use something thicker than 8mm? The rubber liquid sound like a cool product, I’m sure you can achieve air tightness for those higher frequencies….what thickness do you think you can apply it? Thanks very much for your question, let us know how you get on.
@@jimprior7thanks for your reply! The gym flooring is heavy rubber, around 1.5 pounds per square foot. Per your suggestion, I will search for something perhaps a little lighter and thicker. The rubber material coating is called Flex Seal Liquid. Not sure if they sell it in your country. I’m guessing it would be 1 mm thick after two coats. The cost for my wall would be around $350. Not sure if it would be worth it.
How can I soundproof ceiling in an apartment. Apparently there is no insulation between dry wall and wood from unit above. The Unit just put flooring and I can hear the floor joints cracking. Any suggestions. They added about 1 inch of padding and glue to the planks.
Hi very good video thanks.What would you suggest to soundproof windows i have noisy neighbours but only when they are in the garden. i have double glazed windows with shutters.Thanks
Ah thanks very much, and great question. I would firstly put your ear on the window and your finger in your other ear next time they are making noise in the garden. (Close the shutters first 😂) listen to what you hear on the plastered wall either side of the window. If you don’t hear anything then go straight to acoustic secondary glazing (reveal fixed) like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hIaUYAcvr5Y.htmlsi=siZy-a0il4QXnvOG If you hear them making noise on the plastered wall with your finger in the other ear….you need to install the 50mm system to the window wall exactly like we show you in the soundproofing secrets DIY course (£49.99). This will offer 80% on that window wall and you can return it into the reveals improving the integrity of your existing double glazing, and after painting and decorating install the acoustic secondary glazing. I personally had the same problem with my neighbours, acoustic secondary glazing was one of the best investments….still have it today.
Great vid. I've seen other approaches where the stud wall has nogins and I think it's screwed into the flanking wall through dampening strips. And then dampening clips are used on the stud frame. Do you not like using these clips, muteClips, and this approach in general?
Ah thanks very much mate and thanks for the great question too, if you decide to use a genie clip, or a mute clip or reductor clip. We have found you need to use noggins on your frame and you also potentially need to secure the frame to the flanking walls in many cases too. If you tuck the soundproofing above the ceiling and below the floor like we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course…. you will NOT need to secure the frame to the ceiling and floor the same way you do a traditional stud frame. When using resilient bars, they act as your noggin when using my floating frame system, reducing the movement because they are secured to the frame. (channels on the other hand move between the clips and floating frame would move to much) As for the 5mm isolation tape/ strip I can not see how that does anything in a real life situation….maybe in a laboratory…here is a video with my take on the isolation strips…. ru-vid.comHI0t5eiEtME?si=sLvF_0tddZlFybCc From 19 years of installing soundproofing in homes in the UK, my team and I have found that a floating frame using resilient bars will out perform a traditional stud frame with a clip and channel system every day of the week. However; clip and channel systems will out perform a resilient bar…but like all these soundproofing solutions they have to be used in the right way….I just want to share what we have found doing real live installations. Thanks again for your question, hope that helps.
Thanks Jim. So have I got this right: if it has to be a traditional stud wall, use clip and channel. If it's your floating frame, use resilient bars? If it has to be direct to wall, use clip and channel? Is your floating frame held in just with friction? How does it not fall over!?😅 Thanks again
@@deaosatori216 Yes, Work out the costs of each....but it depends on your noise problem too... Have you seen this video yet: 7 Ways to Soundproof a wall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rHU7mnu6-zM.html I go over direct to wall clips and what we have found with these different wall systems, I think you maybe want to consider watch that.
A room like that would cost over £10k done for you by our installation teams….however the Soundproofing Course shows you exactly how you can do it yourself if you can cut and measure as a DIYer. Materials would be a fraction of that, materials calculations tools are all available in the course platform. Hope that helps
What happens if you was to do this to a plasterboard wall without removing it first and deadening it ? Is there other ways that are effective or is that a must do ? I was thinking of attempting this but don’t fancy removing the plasterboard first
Hey Chris, Thanks very much for your great question, going over plasterboard is big no no in my world. This is mainly because you will have a constant humming noise or muffled noise and that is the sound of the noise resonating in the hollow plasterboard. Also by not removing the plasterboard and going over the top with with a rubber, you will most likely channel the noise into the structure, into those hollow ceiling and floor voids or worse channel the noise into other rooms. I have honestly made that mistake myself on my own house back in the day. Chris, here is a little short video I found on my channel just for you....😂: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mXcynW4RJ_E.htmlsi=_euZ0rgXHQzqnYZR I have just posted this video which explains the hollow plasterboard a bit better....sorry for the long rant at the beginning: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u7GUZHIOyuw.html
@@jimprior7 thanks for your help and information, moved 3 times due to noise and it’s happening again . Talk about depressing , feeling like I have no choice but to sound proof ,but with it been council it could be a bit risky cutting plasterboard out but at this rate for the sake of my mental health I don’t really care . Been watching a lot of your videos and kind of got the jist of how to go ahead now Better get saving .
@@christolongers Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments too. Please make sure you are registered for the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course, there is an email going out this week with big changes to the program.
Hi Jim, do you have a video for a wall in a house where the wall seems like a studded wall? We are desperate to block out our neighbours. They're making our lives hell. Thankyou x
For some people that maybe the answer but 40% of my enquiries are from homeowners with detached houses 🤷🏻♂️….road noise, dogs barking, kids running around outside between detached house, kids kicking a ball against the fence, room to room transfers of noise….all in a detached house and many wearing ear Plugs to cope….Also many homeowners just want to play their musical instruments or play music really loud and need a studio.
Hi Mate, I would try to go with the M20AD if you can, you can’t go wrong with the M20 and Less likely to channel the noise into other rooms, hollow voids etc. With the contact Adhesive (link in the description) the guys actually find the M20 easier to install than the TecSound 10kg/m2 self Adhesive. 👍
@@jimprior7 thanks jim so m20 bourds reduce more noise than tecsound is this correct also I need to know how to install the floating wood batten frame you where showing in your youtube video im sound proofing my alcoves so should I wrap the m20 around the chimney breast sorry for asking so many questions but you seem like the person to ask Thanks
@@Newengland1966 Thanks for your question, many people ask how to do the frame which is why there is a whole series of step by step lesson on how to install one on the 'The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course'. Have you registered for this course? It has many lessons, step by step on the frame and all the layers including exactly how to install the M20AD. ALL FILMED IN SEMI-DETACHED houses. Yes the M20AD will sound deaden therefore reduce the structural borne noise through the walls. Think of the TecSound as more of an advance barrier matt. Good idea to put the frame in the alcoves and rubber around the chimney stack - have you seen the 50mm system you can put on the chimney stack? Do the fire back as well.....Keep me updated with how you are getting on.
@@jimprior7 thank you Jim what would you charge to do it for me or do you know anyone in and around the London area who could do it for me i havnt started it yet ive got batten frame and old sound proof bourds which I had done when I moved in but it wasn't done correctly does that need to come down start from scratch I suppose Cheers pal
@@Newengland1966 If you can send me an email with your postcode and contact details, I will get the Installs team to have a look at it for you. Have you seen the latest Video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a wall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rHU7mnu6-zM.html
