Current Connected Website Affiliate Link: www.currentconnected.com/?ref=pwd Downloadable circuit diagram and all project details on my website: projectswithdave.com/120-240v-victron-home-backup Single Phase Victron/SOK Home Backup starter install video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BzMAW8kW0CU.html
6.24.23 Dave, this is an excellent install video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. I am currently building my own system. I am using 1 EG4 battery and I also have the EG4 buss bar battery cabinet. I also have the Victron Smart Shut. As time goes on will add more batteries. The batteries cost the most. Thanks again
I get around the wheel problem by screwing my shelves and benches to a thick sheet of MDF (or plywood) and bolting the wheels to the MDF. This might work here, however I use the same wheels you have chosen, but with the 4-bolt mounting swivel. Like you I studied Mech Eng and I still find out the hard way too. Love this vid. ☺
Definitely the best tutorial l have ever viewed. I Liked and Subscribed! Keep up the excellent work, this content is beyond helpful for new novice guys like me, thank you for posting😎👍
I worked in substations for 20yrs. Never wore a metallic ring, ever. Silicone for the win. It's non-conductive and can't rip your ringer off if it gets snagged. The idea of a gold band conducting across terminals connected to a 200Ahr, 125VDC substation battery was less than appealing.
So true, I was coming back from a wedding and saw someone stuck on the side of the road with her hood open. She ran out of gas and walked a mile for some gas and when she came back her hazard lights killed the battery. I gave her a jump and my bracelet touched the fender when I took the positive off. It burned completely off my arm and left a nice scar to remind me. That’s what I get for helping 😂. I did car stereos and alarms for 30 years and never a problem.
About the wheels -- sort of reminds me of how welding gas bottles have to be secured somehow. Basically it is with a chain to wall, or short term into the transportation cart. In your case, probably you could use for example angle iron bolted to the wall and two shorter chains from the backside verticals. Would look nicer than a single chain all the way around the front.
Dude, I LOVE your channel. I installed my own 15K sol-ark + 37 400W panels (with the help of GoGreen Solar for plans and such) and I give you and Will Prowse a ton of credit for giving me the confidence to do it and not hire it out
I watch a video by David Poz showing why you should never hook those style batteries in parallel and to you use a busbar. He's disassembled them and the jumper bar on the inside (that connect bolt red terminals and black terminals together) gets way too hot when a heavy load is applied to it.
Thanks for the concern. I've seen his video. My system is operating well within the max range for the construction. That being said, a bus bar setup is the more ideal layout.
The reason the Lynx comes with an extra label is so that you can put it on properly if mounting upside down so you don't have to have it look like yours does, if it didn't come with one, get it from your supplier. Page 7 in the manual..."The Lynx modules can be mounted in any orientation. Should they be mounted upside down, so that the text on the front of the units is upside down as well, use the special stickers are included with each Lynx module, so that the text is orientated the correct way." I'm still watching so maybe you fix it at the end, if so disregard.
@@ProjectsWithDave You need a contact link on your web page if you’re not going to have one in your about, which you don’t…. You have a typo on the build page for this project, the word components is missing an n, great build page by the way, well done. The infographic and wiring diagram is better than most I’ve seen that people are charging for… wow nice
@ProjectsWithDave The temp sensor is always inconsistent and never triggered a cutoff even after 2 meltdowns. No native Lifepo4 settings. (only custom). Expensive add on Insite home is needed for network connectivity. Terrible tech support via Schneider. (They just don't care). Super tight internal wiring on the SW with THHN wire. I have plenty more reasons and could probably keep going.
Great informative video, curious about one thing, why do you need a neutral ground bond in an inverter if your main panel has a neutral ground bond. It seems like your transfer switch isn't switching the neutral, so all your neutrals are together, and all your grounds are together, and then they each connect back to the main panel meaning that there would always be a neutral ground bond in the Main panel, Or did i miss something? Edit - Oh wait, is it because the critical loads panel is only fed from the inverters, and therefore can't really see the neutral ground bond in the main. So the neutral coming from the transfer switch to the inverter isn't necessarily connected to, or passing through the neutral going out to the Critical loads panel, so it's almost a separate system?
What about air conditioning? I have the same sok 5 stack running my RV and that one dometic ceiling unit makes the fridge draw a distant second. Now we are in a heat wave and in Florida of course...my 2400 watts of solar doesn't seem to be enough to recharge the bank in a full sunny day, which is a goal...great video thanks!
I’m confused regarding the transfer switch. You mentioned if you are not home the inverters can switch from ac assist to generator to make sure everything remains online but that’s a manual transfer switch so the inverters could never automatically pull from the generators. They could turn it own I guess, but the switch wouldn’t switch. For the money I believe I would have used an inverter that could take the ac assist and the generator and eliminate the transfer switch altogether.
In this setup, the inverters have an internal transfer switch to switch from AC in to battery backup. The AC in can be manually switched between Line and Generator using the external transfer switch. Victron has a more expensive inverter that has two internal switches that can switch between Line, Generator, and batteries automatically. That is this unit: www.currentconnected.com/product/qua10k120/?ref=pwd
I started out with a simple grid-tie system that would easily pay for itself. A battery backup system like this one only makes sense if you have a lot of power outages or need to run off grid.
If I were to install a pair of 10kw M+2's 1) Can they output to the grid (spin the meter backward) 2) I assume theu have no PV inputs and you would also need an MPPT controller etc... Is there a better sution for a 20kw array to feed the grid while still offering a battery backup?
It is possible to do it, I show how in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6WO44Pa5EwI.html However, Victron does not have an approved grid code for the US at this time so you can't get approval to do it. You can use a unit like this one to do both grid back feed and battery backup: signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kpv-hybrid-inverter-all-in-one-solar-inverter-eg4-18kpv-12lv/?ref=pwd
Dave: Two questions: is this install code compliant, and it appears that the only reason you have a transfer switch is so you can switch to a generator, otherwise you could plug the inverters directly into the main panel, am I correct?
Hardware (Nuts & Bolts) should be of as similar material as possible to the terminals & connection ferules, otherwise, you may be setting yourself up for galvanic corrosion, due to the dissimilar materials.
Your video shows you and your son bolting these boxes together without sharing much technical or practical information about them. I do apologize if there is a separate video in which you share exactly how much each of these items cost and why you chose them? I think other viewers might be interested in knowing how compatible your boxes are with other brands (and who those brands are) that do the same thing? I'm also curious how readily available they are? What stores in major cities carry these items in their inventory every day?
I plan to make that an upcoming video. The system as built in this video is just battery backup, no solar is connected yet. The number of panels you would need would be directly dependent on the load and your solar irradiance conditions. Figure out how much power you consume in a day, and compare that to how much you can expect to produce with various array configurations. Use this calculator to determine your array performance: pvwatts.nrel.gov/
@@ProjectsWithDavethen double your pv if you are running heat pumps in the winter. You will only get about 5-10% production on cloudy winter days in Kentucky/Ohio areas where we live. 34kWp for me. Adding another 12kWp before winter.
@@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity my heat pump heat strips are a 10kW load by themselves (not including the compressor, condenser fan, and evaporator fan and other house loads) and run for several minutes during a defrost cycle. Wish I had gone with a propane heater in retrospect and a mini split for the bedroom to run at night. Thank God for my tankless propane water heater.
I’m a bit confused about the grounding relay in the inverters. Aren’t the ground and neutral bonded in your main panel? If so, why do you need to bind them through the relay in the inverter. Perhaps I’m missing something obvious given the complexity of the setup here.
When the power goes out, the Victron internal transfer switch moves the emergency panel off-grid. The emergency panel does not have a ground/neutral bond and is now isolated from the house electrical system. You need a ground/neutral bond somewhere in the system so one of the units is programed to create that bond when running off grid.
@@ProjectsWithDave Unless I missed something, you have continuity from the sub panel through the inverters to the transfer switch. All grounds should also be connected together. If that is the case, the connection in the main panel between ground and neutral is still active.. I have a similar setup with a generator in my system. I have to remove the internal connection between ground and neutral. Mu inspector actually asked about that when he reviewed my installation. I created a plug for the full power outlet of the generator to connect ground and neutral. Since that plug and the house cannot be connected at the same time, all is good.
Only the greatest security minded people put on safety measures in the middle of the job and not before like some skittish person that is easily scared for safety! 😇😜😷
@@ProjectsWithDave aaah, ok thank you for responding makes total sense. I'm building my system right now and learning so it was more of a question than not.
I'm not sure exactly what you are proposing, but the inverters need to be the same to link together. If they are operating as two independent systems I guess you could make something work, depending on the setup.
Victron is history. I prefer an all-in-one unit. Simpler, cheaper, easier! Why bother with a company that breaks everything into pieces when they can combine everything and make your busy life more efficient? Victron - great product but with an Apple blood-sucking mindset.
No. A significant portion of this build was provided by Current Connected. You can get Victron inverters and similar batteries from other suppliers. However, besides their support for this video, I have no problem recommending Current Connected for the following reasons. 1) They double the warranty period for the inverter and batteries. 2) They pre-program everything for your. 3) They actually provide live technical support in native English. If you do want to support the channel here is my affiliate link for there site: www.currentconnected.com/?ref=pwd If you want to look at some other options, check out my website for batteries here: projectswithdave.com/batteries/ And inverters here: projectswithdave.com/inverters/
stopped watching at newton meters. When people do this kind of crap, it strongly suggests,at least to me, a very pretentious ____. (fill in the blank with whatever fits)
Newton-meters or foot-pounds is simply the unit of measure for the required torque on the bolts. It equates to one Newton of force one meter from the pivot, or one pound of force, one foot away from the pivot.
Yeah it's everyone else in the world not you that's wrong . You obviously have a computer or phone you can convert with . Don't knock someone for being up to date with currently word wide used units .
If you're not torquing to the right spec you're asking for very dangerous situation. Ignoring safety specs because you don't like the metric system has to be the most ignorant thing I've heard today.
You've clearly never watched Dave's videos if you think he's pretentious. But I should stop feeding a troll who has apparently never torqued anything down properly before.
@@jotunofficial man, I was a Jet Engine mechanic in the US Air Force. I know all about Tourquing fastners and the equations , formulas for torquing fastners when at different angles and offsets. I just dont need to present my self as being some scientific jenius by using units of measurement that most americans dont even know about. Yes, frankly, i think its pretentious and high hatted. I been watching his videos,He's very knowledgeable in DIY Solar, thats why i watch. a fact you glossed over and self assumed...I never once said "He" was pretentious.
Great video Dave, thank you for all that you put into this one. I was on the fence between the new small Sol-Ark 5k1p, and Victron....this tutorial plus the drop of the new Multiplus II 5k sealed the deal for me. Victron equipment is so nice, efficient, reliable and most of all -- supported. It's definitely pricey but "Buy once--cry once"
bad or poor SOK design considering the position of the display and its buttons is partly covered by thick cables you do not wanna touch. Instead they abused that best spot for their branding and not for the customer - stupid mistake regarding right priorities. And of cause I do not care that I can have access to all the battery data via app or computer browser cause guess what? If I had to pay 5 times a display I would want the manufacturer to pay the same attention for my 5 displays as for my payment, and stepping back with his branding & logo. Usually manufacturer do know how to behave, SOK does not, at least for me they are wasting customers money btw: same regarding these cable connectors just below the display: not really nice to work with cause middle should be better. Finally: if a manufacturer builds a rack battery what kind of mounting can he expect ? maybe a horizontal line or a vertical stack If a vertical stack is the logical solution then I can tell you as a non engineer from working for the oldest car manufacturer that they should turn the 2 poles vertical to each other in 1 single line and therefore covering half of the space they cover now which will provide the customer more space and convenienc if there is only the outer pole used, I mean the left red one and the right black one. Just another copy from china instead of designing a real battery stack made for the big guys, big customers. And I also bet, that small customers with just 1 rack battery would not complain about more useable space for display, buttons and connections. Luckily the chinese engineers are happy with their first idea and do not improve and improve their solution again and again like we do cause that gives us a key competitive advantage which you can easily check if you get a cheap chinese car and how basic things regarding usability have been forgotten you can find on every other western car. Great video again, but poor SOK design choices especially selling such weak rack without an option for a reinforced moveable rack even THOUGH THEY ALREADY KNOW THAT CUSTOMERS ARE USING IT THAT WAY AND ARE STRUGGLING BIG TIMES The usual company with any ISO certification should have a loop in their procedures for forcing the product management team to give the order to develope an optional moveable rack kit with 2 bars + 4 plates + 4 wheels and make a business opportunity out of it instead of warning the customer. And if that company is so behind and so slow would I really wanna buy such battery from them if they simply had imported it from china and relabelled it ? Might be time to start a rack battery development from scratch instead of buying a cheap chinese case or battery and rebrand it to SOK. Pretty disappointing for an american company I have to say.
are you familiar with shop "mobile base" to move a tool around the shop? They have a pedal and lever assembly to push the wheels down and lift the tool, or let the base and tool rest directly on the ground for use. A mobile base is the way you want to add wheels to a server rack. Not by putting wheels directly under the posts of the rack. The posts need to be tied together with more structural strength and is designed to be mounted to a cohesive, uniform surface to provide that tie.
Hi, I would have rather suggested that you use a Quattro-II 2x 120V and a Cerbo GX. By using a Quattro you would not need a transfer switch and the Quattro would perform that function and with a Cerbo GX you can monitor your Charge / Inverters remotely. You could also connect your generator to the Cerbo GX and when your batteries get low the Cerbo GX could start your generator for you automatically and you would be able to monitor the fuel level then the tank of your generator.
Thanks for sharing the update! At 49:22, you mentioned that the shunt loses its SOC if it loses power. Victron actually updated the shunt to give you the option of what you want it to do if power is lost. That’s the “Battery SOC on reset” option, which right now is “keep SOC”. I was so happy when they added that in!
Thanks for commenting on that. Yes, that new feature is great. It works as long as nothing changes to affect the stage of charge after it looses connection. I didn't realize the update until I was done editing that section, but I did change the settings to "keep SOC" in the video. Thanks!
Dave, just wanted to say your videos are awesome, and super helpful for me doing research on setups like this. One question: will you eventually run conduit for the DC cables? I can understand why you would want some flexibility while you're testing things out, but wanted to know if you planned on running everything in conduit eventually. Thanks again!
My first battery was a MASTER CRAFT. It worked well for testing out this solar stuff, for the first time. I was given an INTERSTATE battery from a mechanic friend, who wasn't using it, it was a welcome addition to the 'customized battery bank'. I then got myself a PRO POINT battery (which was twice the size of my master craft battery). They're connected in parallel. I've got a humble 2000watt sine inverter and 11x 230 watt panels on the roof. It's a 'starter'/beginner set up...but I've learned a lot.
At a bare minimum you want to be using Class-T fuses as your main bank protection for an LIFPO4 bank. This bank can easily throw 20,000A or more of current into a dead short and can damage and literally blow windows out of Mega fuses.
The US Navy used to have a web site up about working with power. There were also photos of a sailor who forgot to take off his wedding ring, which caused a crowbar short on a single 12vdc automotive type battery. They can and do provide over 3000 amps in a crowbar short, which resulted in the immediate traumatic amputation of his ring finger. That's one reason silicone wedding bands are now common. I don't wear rings, but I did manage to weld the rotating bezel on my metal watch. Twelve volts can really surprise you.
yea I did this tightening up a positive with both batteries connected to a starter on a M38A-1. I ripped that band off so quick I didnt even notice it took most of the skin under and around the band with it.
Not sure what SCC you have, but the Victron Smart Solar Charge controllers are awesome. I just converted over from a MPP Solar LV2424 24 volt system to a Victron Multiplus II 2400 /70 A system with 10kwh of SOK 206AH Marine batteries. The idle consumption of the MPP solar unit was 40 watts an hour! My new Victron Multiplus-II uses about 13 watts. It is like having an extra battery. I use mine to run my freezers in my garage and the refrigerator as well as a sump pump. I have two more 206 AH SOK batteries that I will use with either the old MPP solar unit or with the 12 volt Victron Phoenix inverter. I live along the coast in NC, and after Hurricane Florence, I decided to invest in a back up system. Your setup is awesome, but I have back issues, so I stayed away from the server rack batteries. Anyways, great video content and take care.
These 2 inverter (one per line) setups always seem like a mess to me. You end up with twice the idle power consumption, twice the cableing having to add data communication cables and you split the autotransformer effect across the neutral bar rather than having a single larger splitphase inverter where both half phases are on one centertapped transformer core. You also always have to buy a pair of inverters to keep expanding the setup in the future. This is still a nice setup for a backup situation but I would go with a single 6K splitphase unit for backup power or a single 12K splitphase unit for whole house backup. 2X-4X 12K splitphase units running in daisy chain would be enough to take a modern home that has 200A panel completely offgrid at even the highest usage levels like vehicle charging while using the range, clothes dryer and air conditioner.
Said it for years, racks that are made of lots of little bits are not going to be strong. Solution: Use heavy steel racking. Manufacturers are trying to save money.
@@0my I have been known to re-weld some questionable welds before but as I said, racks need toone-piece. Same as if I was was doing a server rack that holds just as much, if not more weight, no light-weight kits will ever pass.
Hello, pls, do you have experience with Enphase system? Pls, i need your expertise advise on how I can connect a battery backup with my existing Enphase system? I plan on using a third party battery I purchased from China. I have two 10kWh batteries that I plan on connecting in parallel. One of the batteries has an inbuilt 5KW inverter and I have another 5KW inverter (same brand) that I plan on paralleling as well as both are 120V. For my existing solar system, I have a combined box as well as 3G system controller. I understand how to connect the inverters in parallel, but not sure how to connect with my system controller. Pls, I’ll appreciate your help in walking me through this process. I can share my number with you if you don’t mind. Really need your help.
I'm glad you showed how bad the original idea for wheels is - but I wouldn't want to be near that thing if it's not bolted to the ground! That's a very scary thing to put on wheels.
I can't stand that. I have to say it anytime I hear it because it makes people sound like a hillbilly and they don't even know they sound like a hillbilly but there is not a T In the word ACROSS. IT IS NOT A C R O S T
Dave really enjoy your videos. I did something very similar but with the addition of the Victron autotransformer. At first I just didn’t know how balanced the loads were and if it would top out one side of my split phase set up before using the equal amount of power from the other. Turns out in use it as you would usually mode I have less than 1000 watts imbalance. The auto transformer absorbs the imbalance with no problem allowing me to draw almost identical power from both victron multis 3k. It’s fun to watch on the Cerbo GX
Great video. Maybe you explained and I missed it, but why are you using a transfer switch rather than routing the main power feed through the inverter?
The transfer switch allows me to switch between line input or generator input. If you use the Quatro you can bring them both into the unit independently, but the Multiplus only has one input.
Victron no solo produce una señal estable aunque limitada en potencia para proteger su ingeniería, también te permite conectar generadores con señal no muy buena y permite un gran abanico de posibilidades de conexión y control enhorabuena por tu elección y tu canal
If I'm totally mobile (DC only) and want 240V, couldn't I get a MultiPlus II along with an AutoTransformer to make 240V output to my distribution panel? That way I should have 240V and 120V for everything. Correct? I'm guessing I just wouldn't have as much usable wattage compared to two Multis, of course. Basically: Battery Bank > MultiPlus II > AutoTransformer > AC Panel - OR - I could get a European MultiPlus with 230V and change the 50Hz to 60Hz. Pardon anything screwy here. I'm still learning...
Yes, that's a solution you could use. Here is a video from the guys at Current Connected on the topic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xp-9F1jBq6E.html
In my opinion, the stationary rack is a mistake by SOK and the #1 reason EG4 is selling far more units. I love SOK batteries engineering, but having to customize the rack to have it mobile needs to be fixed ASAP. Current connected needs to be pressing them hard on fixing this.
My first question is what kind of well pump are you using? That’s 240 V because I have an old jet style well Pump and it’s 120. And my second question is since you upgraded your system, why did you upgrade to still doing single phase inverters when you can now get dual phase inverters for pretty reasonable price nowadays compared to what they used to be instead of buying two expensive inverters to make it so that you can have 220 V at your panel box
My well pump is a variable speed constant pressure 240V Grundfos pump. The point of this system was starting with a single unit that could later be upgraded to split phase. See the original install here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BzMAW8kW0CU.html I am also investigating all-in-one split phase inverters. It is hard to find something that beats the reliability and efficiency of Victron. Not hard to find something that beats the cost. : )
I'm curious about the output AC wiring requirement of being symmetrical mentioned at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ipLRNglTdhg.html ?? I wouldn't think this would matter when running split phase, since the inverter AC outputs aren't actually in parallel, they're powering different loads?? BTW, nice job!
You are right, the symmetrical wiring is only necessary when running units in parallel. The split phase setup shown here will always be out of balance at some level do to unbalanced loading. Equal length AC wires is not necessary in this configuration.
Great video, clear instructions. I'm about to build a very similar setup, only paralleling two 240v multiplus inverters. Do you not feel the need to install a main t class fuse and battery isolation switch in main battery line, or are you happy to rely on each individual breaker on the batteries?
Why are you using the ground relay to bond the neutral to ground in one of the inverters? Isn't the neutral already bonded to ground in your service entrance load center? If it is bonded there and that neutral remains connected to the inverters when the ground relay is closed, I believe you have a code violation because you have your ground and neutral bonded at two locations. As I understand it, if you don't have a means in your transfer switch or something else to make and break the neutral to ground bond in the SE panel, your generator and battery backup power should both be setup as a non-separately derived system and the neutral should be left floating in the generator and in the inverters. If I'm missing something, please help me to understand. Edit: I just read the manual for the inverters and see that there is an input safety relay that opens the line and neutral connections when input power drops out, so now I understand why the ground relay would close.
I'm considering doing something similar to this / your first video with this system - do the batteries essentially stay fully charged unless grid goes out and it transfers? How do you account for properly cycling the batteries when putting together a back-up only system like this?
Good question. They do stay fully charged unless the power goes out with this setup. I periodically turn the breaker off and let the loads drain the batteries to cycle them.
@@ProjectsWithDave Appreciate the reply and insight, Dave. I'm only going to be doing a 120V critical circuit panel, and I'm bouncing back and forth between the 5k Vitron and the Sol-Ark 5k. I think the Sol-Ark software might allow some parameter programming to cycle the batteries more easily, but it's also the most expensive 120v option. Thanks again.
Multiple reasons, here are the two big ones: 1) As you mentioned, to prevent rapid consumption of available energy in a power outage from non critical loads. 2) You can save a lot of money by purchasing a small inverter that can run a few critical loads as apposed to a large inverter capable of running multiple large appliances at once.
Excellent presentation. I did something very similar at my house with a 22 kW battery bank and two Multipluses. I can only get about a days worth of backup without charging the battery. I have 3 kW of panels so I still need to use the grid for about half of my whole house load but it sure is nice to have instant backup during an outage that allows flexibility as to when I want to run my generator.
Crazy to think that the Ford Lightning accomplishes this, but with a battery 4x to 5x the size. It can power 220v loads, and the cost of a used one with less than 10k miles is $60K. I priced it out, and this could be a cheaper option, plus it can function as a primary vehicle.
It’s not quite that simple. You need their proprietary V2H system and a transfer/disconnect which is also thousands of dollars installed (one review put it at $7k to $18k just to install that tech) - it’s limited to 9.6kW - and it doesn’t do it automatically. That system uses a CCS plug, so it’s not compatible with cars that use the standard J plug.
I would have thought that you could have left the 100A rated cable and just changed the fuse from 100A to 50A. That's all it would take to limit that feed, without excess work. I'm also surprised that you don't use "cable butter" on those tight conduit runs. That's what I've seen with senior union electricians. It makes life much easier in tight conduits.
Smaller breakers do not have large enough lugs for the 100A rated cable I had already run that's why I had to change it. I didn't need any lubricant for the short runs I made. I was even able to push it through from one end. It's the connectors that are a bit tight.
Great Video Dave but , for the price of Victron Shunt you'll be better off with Cerbo GX and no need for the shunt anymore. Its not 100% precise from what Ive seen in few of my systems and with cerbo youll get so much more...
Yeah, the microwave uses 1000 watts but usually only for a couple of minutes at a time. The absolute longest I ever ran a microwave for was 20 minutes and that was using a microwave rice cooker back in college. The same could be said of an air fryer. Sure, it uses 1500 Watts...but you're only running it for 10-15 minutes at a time or so.
Well... thumbs down! As an engineer you know that you SHOULD start from the plan! So If you've started with a schematic ad describe it, well your video would have a proper foundation. As it is, is just a lot's of yabadaba. At least you should explain your choices 😞
Don't get me wrong. You put a lot of useful info, but would be much better if you stick to this rule: Say what you are going to say, say it and say what you said. Or better, show (diagram) what you are going to talk-about, say it, and make a recap ;-)
Feeding the batteries from the middke will dustributevthe peak curtent. Staggering the feed fron the middke three batteries shoukd be optimal. Msybe verify this is OK with the battery vendor. Thanks for sharing!
Just as an important note for all looking at this video and thinking they can use it with an ESS Assistant. It will not work like this! If the MP2 have been configured for grid and ESS they expect grid and not a weak generator! For this usage you should have used the Quattro with its 2 Inputs where one is for Grid and the other one for generator. With ESS assistant installed it tries to sent power out the AC input to the grid. This of course would be fatal if a Generator is installed. They do not expect power back to them. In this case before you switch from grid to generator you have to select Generator as input on the cerbo before you start it or else the MP2 will push back power to it. The solution shown in this video is really meant to be like a big USV. So no solar power connected on AC out etc. only charging from gen or grid. For which this system is totally overpriced and overspec from my point of view. I have 3 phase system with a rack full of Pylontech batteries which powers my full house and do have AC PV inverters on AC out and also MPPTs straight to the battery. Also your comment about equal length cabling is not correct. Only on parallel systems this is necessary as the load has to be evenly distributed. On a split phase system the phases are always not loaded the same way hence one inverter will always use more or less power no matter what. It is clearly written like this on the Victron Info page for parallel and split phase systems: www.victronenergy.com/live/ve.bus:manual_parallel_and_three_phase_systems For units in parallel: Both the DC and AC wiring needs to be symmetrical per phase: use the same length, type and cross-section to every unit in the phase. To make this easy, use a bus-bar or power-post before and after the inverter/chargers. Also, apply the same torque on all connections. Split phase therefore simplifies the installation compared to a parallel installation as AC and DC wires do not need to be equal length. Victron has really good manual so please use them here: www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-ii#manuals Also please always use the BMS connection to monitor your batteries. Feed that CAN wire to the cerbo and let the cerbo actually take the full advantage of the BMS like DVCC. The BMS then fully controls the charging and maximum in and out power. The shown way with the victron Battery Monitor is therefore a waste of money. If the cerbo is to pricey for you (even though you bought Victron in the first place) use a RasperryPi and install the VENUS OS on it and use a can shield or whatever connection the BMS needs to connect the battery to the system. If your settings are wrong for the battery in the VEconfigure you can also kill your batteries by overloading them or charging them wrong over time. The BMS is really an integral thing for such a setup. Especially in split phase where multiple units are pulling power or charging the battery. So please do not cheap out now and not using a cerbo..... do it correctly.
I haven't built that configuration, but you should just be able to configure two units in parallel on each phase. So two units will be assigned to phase one and two units will be assigned to phase 2. The wire lengths need to be the same for the parallel units.
So the rack of 5 SOK batts are 2x that of what a single Tesla PowerWall provides right? I assume they have a longer life too being LiFePO4? So at 25Kwh, that's enough energy to run a typical home for a full day in the summer excluding AC? If power were to go out for a couple weeks, and you had solar charging things.. would you basically avoid using anything other than fridge and stove to have enough power (with solar charging assuming you have enough solar)? You mentioned generator too, so I assume you could always use a generator, but was thinking in a situation for someone on an island who may not have access to fuel either.. how long could they last with minimal use of things?
Great setup! There are also single units out there that'll do split phase, I went with a SunGoldPower 10 kW box and 5 of their rack batteries. I used the same SOK battery rack you have but with SGP's batteries and a total of 25.6 kWh capacity. It runs our house for a day and a half from a full charge. I'm very impressed.
I have a SunGoldPower split phase inverter, It has been running for about a year now with no issues, but setup is a pain. You can see it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IZjISqEWglU.html
You could have made a wooden platform. Added your caster to the wooden platform. Then bolted the rack to the platform. Making it a little larger than the rack would’ve made it more stable as well.
In Europe there is the 230/400V electricity system. The small inverters are connected between neutral and phase 230 volts. In the three phase system with 400 volts in Y configuration with neutral. The instructions also show that the same inverter can be connected to 120/240 volt split phase. So on phase to phase 240 volts, but not with neutral. With three-phase then in delta configuration without neutral.
