It's time to insulate the new garage, so I try out a kit I found online by a company called Vega Bond. Here is a how to and evaluation of how the kit works. Thanks to @vegabond2135 for making a cool product like this available!!
This is great. I'm going to be building a bigger garage (this year? next year?) and I plan to do the spray foam insulation. Great review! I may pick your brain about your garage builder, too. I think I just need to stop over in the spring!
Thanks for taking the time to make this. I just bought the 12 can kit. Did you find there was much overspray? I am insulating a small work shed and I'm not sure how well I need to protect my tools, bench etc from spray.
You're welcome! Glad it helped you out. You will have to factor in overspray, especially in tighter areas. (Corners, attic spaces, etc.) I would be particular about your prep. Anything you wouldn't want "peppered" with tiny bits of foam, cover up well, or move it to another area temporarily. When you apply it, overspray doesn't seem to be that bad, but if you don't prep, you'll probably regret not doing so. Thanks for reaching out!
I normally would have, but there are so many factors that go in to it. (Who's applying and how thick, if instructions were followed correctly, temperature during application, etc.) Price is also affected on which kit you purchase, as the bigger kit you purchase, the more money you save. That being said, I got pretty decent coverage on a per can basis, probably around 18-19 board feet. The total square footage I covered was about 1,150 square feet, so at an approximate 2.5-3 inch thickness that totals about 2875-3,450 board feet. I ended up using around 170 cans to achieve my desired 3 inch thickness for a total cost of about $2,900. (About $16.88 per can on average) The quotes I received to have a professional spray it were more than three times that amount. As far as R values go, a 1" thickness will be 5-7, a 2" will be about 10-14, and 3" will be 15-21. On another note, I did decide to put in faced R-19 fiberglass over top of the spray, and ended up spray foaming and batting the metal ceiling as well, because I want my building to be as well insulated as a refrigerator. Current value of walls are probably around R40 before drywall. I'm not sure if this is what you were looking for, but I hope it helps you out. Good luck in your project!
I'm not sure why you would want it thin, but if you moved the tip of the gun quickly across the surface, you might be able to get it to apply it in a thin manner.
No. Dudes see this and think “batten insulation costs a fraction of what this tiny kit costs and also takes a fraction of the time to install lol Video is well done though so shout out to the creator. It’s a risk putting yourself out there. Even if the product isn’t what someone else might like it’s still good to get ideas on what’s available. Keep em comin!
@@MrManAmong I totally agree. Batting is way less expensive. Went with closed cell foam to double as a vapor barrier, and create more of an "airtight" seal. I live in Pennsylvania where winters can be brutal, and wind is an issue. Now that the foam is done, and I have 2x6 walls, I might put in batting for some extra R value. Once that's done, I might be able to get the in floor heat up and running! Thanks for watching! 👍
With spray foam. You need 2" minimum. Otherwise, you get condensation. Once you go past 3" of close cell their a huge drop off on efficiency. And adding fiberglass batting is just a waste of money. Because r-value isn't everything. Because foam has no airleaks it's effective r-value is about 3 times of fiberglass. Plus as temperature drops below 0. Fiberglass become less effective.
