Most of the things you did are things I've done many times. Except the glass cutting. It looked like magic! I've never cut glass. If I needed it, I took the item to the hardware store. But now making windows, perhaps I'll try. I'll probably use an edge guide. You made it look so easy. Also the putty. Amazing. Thank you. I am going to do this.
Great video with great tips ! I was brainstorming how to do this without complicated, time consuming wood joinery...now I'll just get that Kreg pocket joiner jig, nice strong joints right there ! Thank you !
Awesome video, thanks for sharing that. You make some incredible how to videos, you are very talented. My wife and I bought a fixer upper a few years ago and it has been a challenge at times but I love a challenge. Thanks
At the end it states "extends the life of the prime window"....can you elaborate on how that is accomplished? Maybe it prevents the constant air flow--in/out--and the changing temperature that comes with it? Or reduces the imbalance in temperature on both sides of the prime window...which perhaps causes destructive condensation, etc. Is this how the life is extended, by reducing these effects?
Laura, mainly it protects the prime window from the exterior elements. Rain, snow, wind, debris, etc. it all lasts longer once protected by a storm. However, storms can cause condensation issues depending on the house and the condition of the original window so it’s best to watch carefully to see what happens when one is installed for the first time. You will likely need some venting.
jeez, thanks for your reply, you are absolutely right. I had been watching other DIY INTERIOR "storm windows", yes, if you can believe it they exist, but perhaps to call it an interior placed window cover a "storm window" is a misnomer. When watching your video I thought it too was being created for interior use...but yours are true storm windows--which protects as you stated. Great video's thanks!
Hi Scott, really a great video on how to do storm windows.....I have 5 - 33" x 52" windows I want to do for my bedrooms and I was wondering where can I find the glaze stays setter you use to set the glass? When I ask my building center where I can get one they say they don't what I'm talking about....any help would very much appreciated. Thanks
Hey Scott, I plan on making 2 sets of these for my home. One with glass, and another as screens. How would you modify this plan for a screen? Just skip the routing and staple the screen to the inside?
Absolutely. Skip the routing and staple screen to the inside actually. Then apply a screen molding to cover the attached screening’s edges and trim the excess.
Do you caulk in the putty and set windows before glazing when you are restoring an OLD WINDOWS ? I didnt remember seeing that on any of the previous restoration videos? Wish we could have seen it installed and what it looks like.
+Carol Johnson I don’t use caulk, but rather we have started thinning our linseed oil putty a bit and applying it with that bulk caulk gun. It goes faster than applying the bed by hand. So, no, I don’t recommend caulk for old windows or storm windows.
Hey, Scott, great video - I'm going to do it exactly as you taught. Here's the thing - where do you get those straight, flat boards? I'm willing to pay a premium (doesn't take much wood) but can't find good stock.
could I get away with using staples instead of pocket screws? I've used pocket screws many times but staples are so much faster. I have 23 windows to protect! I'm also thinking about using PVC instead of wood. Don't have to prime and don't have to worry about rot
Plexi off gasses in sunlight and turns yellow so I wouldn't use it as window glass if you get any sunlight through a window. If making storm windows isn't possible, you can stick bubble wrap to your windows to insulate them. It really works. I do it every fall and then cover my inner windows with clear plastic just to be sure no air is getting through. Just be sure to cover every inch of your glass with the bubble wrap. All you need is a spray bottle with water and a bit of dish soap. Just spritz your windows and stick the bubble wrap to it.
The insulating value comes from creating the space....it essentially creates a double pane window, or possibly a triple pane window if the prime window is already double pane. There are in depth discussions online about heats ability to transfer through different objects including gaps of inclosed air. In an even less technical sense, it also helps reduce any airflow that may exist should the prime window not be properly sealed or contain gaps, as is common in many old structures with original windows. (I know you asked 8 months ago...but, should anyone else read...this is the basics--of which The Craftsman Blog already answered).
@@TheCraftsmanBlog thank you! I'm a total novice. I have watched your videos as well as others but I'm afraid of the unknown. Is this something you think a novice could accomplish? What about restoring my regular windows?
Definitely can do! It will stretch you as a novice, but measure twice and cut once. The hardest part for early on was getting comfortable with a router. Same for restoring your windows. Very simple but lots of work.
wow thanks a lot!! i have been trying to figure out how to block noise from a bar and I have a 100-year-old house and been trying to figure out what would be a good way to do it and seems ill give this a try. I already made the frames the same way you did but can just take out the mesh screen and put glass in instead. Also what type of glass do you recommend?
@@TheCraftsmanBlogyeah I'm leaning on going with laminated glass where would I find laminated glass a local glass shop or could I find it online I been looking online but haven't found much info Im going to need 6 glass pieces of 25 X 37 I'm sure it's going to cost a bit. Also did you notice any difference using annealed glass for decreasing of sound?
You may want to look into Indow Windows for the sound blocking. They are an interior acrylic storm window and are pretty darn effective at sound blocking. Up to 70%!
Good video but why is it that almost all DIY videos encourage people to take unnecessary chances by removing safety guards from table saws? And, no, it is not for clarity.
I don’t encourage it. It is just a reality of how many woodworkers table saws are setup due to the guards making a lot of operations we do on a daily basis impossible or at the very least extremely difficult. In my mind when the manufacturers make guards that allow me to do my work I will be the first the keep them installed. Until then it’s like wearing a seat belt that prevents you from driving.
Paul Charles table saw guards are more of a hazard and create more dangerous situations than they protect us from. A guard on a table saw is merely there from the factory for two basic reasons 1) to protect the inexperienced from themselves while the build trust and experience with the machine while performing simple, basic cuts and for those the guard does provide protection but I have seen many times when a rookie woodworker builds a false sense of security with a table saw guard and there are many operation on a table saw that are absolutely impossible with a guard In place and it is much safer in our opinions to learn to respect the equipment and use extreme caution all the time instead of only times when the guard is removed then you go back to comfort mode when the guard is back in place. That is when fingers get cut off 2) because it is a requirement from some of our favorite government agencies I know there’s probly a bunch of folks that don’t agree with me but I’ve been working with wood for close to 50 years now and still have every finger and toe. You are not going to change the way we work in our shops by making comments about how we need to operate because you have a.different view on equipment operation Take care
Thank you for such clear and easy to understand steps. I am looking forward to giving this a try. I got estimates to have two 100-year old storm windows rebuilt for my house - just about fainted. I would rather put that money to expanding my tool collection and building the two windows myself. It's a win for my house and win for my tool collection and a win for me as I'll add to my skill set. Thank you for so generously sharing your "been there, done that" lessons.
I can’t thank you enough for this tutorial. A long time ago I took a class in how to make mortise and tenon storm windows because my 1903 house has 33 windows. I decided to have the six storm windows on the front elevation made professionally, as three are massive: 3’ x 6’. So now I need to do the rest of the house, and I will use your technique. One tip on the glass cutting for newbies. You can slide a dowel under the score line to pop it without having to hang onto a big piece sticking out over the end of your workbench. This is an old picture framing technique. Another one is to put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on the blade (wheel) of your glass cutter to make it last longer. Thanks again!
Any reason you chose cypress? Rot resistant? Also, thoughts on using plexiglass for exterior storm windows? I’m about to build ~8 of these before winter arrives here in northern VT.
I built 2 piece storms the top sash stays in the bottom can ge taken out and replaced with a screen. The top center devider overlaps the bottom in the outside and vice versa on the bottom sash. I would love to see a video with a full size storm and a changable bottom glass with a screen
Awesome Video! I've been searching the internet for someone who uses the Kreg system to build storms and this was it! I am wondering did you square all of your wood before you started? Planer/jointer/table? Thanks Justin
Hey Justin! No I didn’t square the lumber before hand but that is never a bad practice. Just looked for clear fraught boards at the lumber yard since they were S4S I saved myself the hassle and let the mill take care of squaring them up.
Great job, based on your video it should take about 12 minutes to make a window. This means I can make 5 storm windows in one hour. I am not sure what I will do with the remainder of my day. Seriously, nice job.
Is it possible to use a rabetting machine on both sides of the window and make it double glazed? Was thinking of drilling a little hole in one of the two glasses to get rid of condensation. Crazy idea?
Great video, thank you. Half way through first demo window. This may be a silly question, because didn’t see anyone asking it yet. Do you prefer the glaze on the inside or exposed side of the window?
Always on the outside. The glaze is part of maintenance and keeps the rain off the wood (it runs down the putty). If you did it backwards then moisture would be between the wood and glass and would not last long.
Can you come build mine for me I'm in Virginia? Lol.. I have the ugliest aluminum storm windows on a pretty 1833 Colonial farmhouse... I need nicer storms that fit the house.
Great video, Scott! So glad I can build storm widnows without any joinery tools and I love the oil-cleanup tip (and accompanying videos)! Do you have any special tricks or advice on installing the windows?
This is great, one question though. On a traditional aluminum storm window, you can open it, and it has a screen. With this you wouldn't be able to open it to let the air inside. Can it be made to where you can open the window, like a traditional storm window? I love this, and want to make a couple. Thanks for a quality video!
I been thinking about this also if it's possible to make one that can remove the the glass safely. I was thinking maybe using acrylic for the ones that you want to take out. But I seen someone on RU-vid do it a long time ago but couldn't find the video
Original storm windows had what looked like a mail slot cut into the center of the bottom sill -- maybe 12" by 2". This was covered by an inside door which swiveled on one end. Granted, this didn't let in a lot of air, but if you wanted more perhaps it was time to switch from storms to screens.
I know it’s a year late - but thought I’d chime in for anyone else who’s curious. With this older system of storm windows, they are mounted from outside using hangers at the top and a latch on the bottom. Every spring you go out and remove all your glass storm windows and carry them down into the basement (or up to the attic). Then you bring a second set of identically sized screened windows out and install them using the same hangers and latches. It’s a real pain in the ass to do - but it was (and still is) a great way to keep your house warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Personally, I prefer the newer aluminum sliding storm windows for the second floor! Going 16’ up a ladder carrying a 30lb storm window is not ideal for the gentler folk of the year 2023. 😅
Nice video. I just made some storms but I had to bevel the bottoms to match the sill angle. Also, what if your sash needs to be more than 1" deep? The old sash that I replaced was 1-1/8" deep. What material would you suggest for that issue. I used the clearest 2x4's I could find and planed them down with my planer.
If it’s thicker than 3/4” then I’d have to get some thicker rough stock to plane down like you did. I prefer Accoya wood since it is virtually rot proof but anything that is resistant to rot will work well.
Menard's carries 5/4 thick wood in various widths. The actual thickness works out to 1 1/8 inch - 1 1/16 inch. I've used it for storm windows, screen windows, and exterior window trim on my 1863 farmhouse. But it's expensive. That plus the cost of glass makes for a costly replacement -- even with my free labor.
Thank you, Scott, the Craftsman Blog is really great. For a colder climate, I live in Littleton, Colorado, is cypress still recommended? Or perhaps a different wood? If I can’t get cypress would cedar, redwood, or something else be preferred? Thank you.
Hi Scott, thanks for this excellent tutorial. I was wondering about weep hole size and placement (Given the weather in my area, it's a necessity). Thanks in advance, and best to you 🤓👍
I appreciate the idea that weep holes help eliminate moisture buildup but I wonder a) wouldn’t 1/2” holes defeat the purpose of sealing out drafts, and b) shouldn’t a newly built storm not leak/need weep holes? I have storms that are not under eaves and the rain does run down the siding and leak into the window. Annoying as can be, and I’m considering installing a drip ledge above the window.
this guy is so arrogant that he only do the videos to hook viewers so he can have $$ in for each ad u and i watch...and teach nothing..search for other similar channels that are there to teach something of value...
Cheapest way ...use plywood, 2 pieces. Cut out squares for the glass. On next piece of plywood make square for windows 1/2" smaller. Put two pieces of plywood together and you have rigid AF frame and have inset for the glass to set in. This can be made with circular saw, jigsaw and drill. U
I have an old house that I want to make storms and screens. I have 56 windows. A couple of questions. Do you sell that caulk/glazing gun? If cypress is not available in my area what about using pine? I was thinking of using a lot of old yellow pine I have in my garage. Why did you not screw and glue joints?
I do not have the tools-that's a lot of different kinds. I don't see pocket holes on mine, so I'm guessing they were filled in with putty. I'm kicking myself for not just fixing my stormers myself. Had a fellow use silicone when I gave him putty and told him to use that, sanded down the interior decorative millwork, when all that needed sanding was an area with very slight rot/missing paint, and caulked over that, then painted over it with the dark green oil paint that was for the outside, not the inside. The other frame he banged up. I could have just worked glaze into the place it was missing, let dry and turn them around, put them up backward and sanded and painted the inside white, then flip them the right way and paint them the green.😔💔☹
Great video, thank you! Just a suggestion, the music was overpowering your voice. Turning it down made it harder to hear you. Maybe not use music or turn it down. Just a suggestion 😊
Hi, I’m wondering if you ever use boiled linseed oil to preserve and protect the wood from the rain? We had an Italianate that we had to reglaze all of the original windows from the 1880s, they originally had been treated with boiled linseed oil and after they dried they were primed and painted, the boiled linseed oil really protects and preserves the wood. Just curious.
I have aluminum storms. Would you recommend replacing them with wooden storms? I would plan on using the same glass and just replace the aluminum edges.
I don’t have a table saw or all those fancy tools if I could afford all those tools I would just buy new windows why a diy for people who have a saw and a drill I don’t even have a shop
Since these go inside the window cases, you may make a square storm for an out of square old window. Also loose out on having window screens in the summer. Think this is better purchased and surface mounted.
Im thinking of getting 3/16 or 1/4 glass im not sure if glass companys supply this and if the weight will be to much for the frames what bit would you recommend for these thickness of glass
I think that would be overkill for a storm window. 1/8” is more than sufficient, but if you do thicker glass then make sure you make your rabbets at least 3/8” bigger than the thickness of your glass.
I cannot find a single person in town willing to do this except a fellow who "can't guarantee" his work. This are giant 52"×52" rancher stormers with glass intact.
Great video! Rookie question: why not apply wood putty in the pocket holes instead of plugs? (Some putties cure hard, are waterproof, can be sanded, and don't shrink). Three more quick questions: 1. What about weep holes in the bottom rail? 2. What about matching the angled sill on the bottom rail? 3. What do you apply to seal around the top rail and stiles during installation? Caulk? Felt? Foam or rubber tape? Thanks!
Thanks good questions! You can fill the picket holes with wood filler if you prefer, but the wood won’t shrink and require another coat potentially. I don’t really see the red for weep holes in a simple frame like this. You can get a closer fit by beveling the bottom rail, but so have intentionally skipped this by cutting the rail short enough of the sub-sill to not be an issue but still long enough that it is covered by the sill.
How are the windows holding up? Has there been any racking of the window upon opening and closing? Thanks for using the using the Kreg system. You have the only video I’ve seen (and I’ve looked a lot) on RU-vid (and even the internet).
Lets say I wanted to be a little fancier and use a cope and stick bit to give a nice ogee profile on the inside but keep everything else the same , how would that change/how would I measure the rails to fit the window openings? Thanks.
The Craftsman No changes. Glue and pocket screws. Rout out the flat piece with a rabbetting bit to accept glass and glazing with fancy profile on the other side.
The Craftsman Blog I’d like to replicate the existing storms that are left. This is the way they are constructed. Trying to return the house to the way it was 100 years ago. Wanted to take that profile and then instead of using mortise and tenon us pocket screws or loose tenons.
Wow you deserve more views. Great tutorial it seems very easy. I have a few questions if you don't mind... I'm looking to make these to sit inside. I have an old bay window which is essentially single pane glass in a grid fashion between 2x4s... É bay window is in a 3 row and 4 column squares making the bay window. Each square is about 20x20 inches. Would it be possible to make the rabbit on the other side as well and essentially make a 2 pane storm window? Is there enough material of wood for this? This would enable once installed on my window, to be triple pane, with 2 air pockets in total making it more efficient. Also what type of glass are you using? Also would the glazing putty be needed since these would sit inside? These would be meant to stay permanently since our windows don't open we'd intend to keep them on always... In this case maybe building a frame in the cavity as a spacer around the edge and tack it with some finishing nails and just add glass panes on top would be easier? Thanks
The Craftsman Blog thanks for the info!!! I found this in my search of that answer. I’ll share the link, thought it was pretty interesting. nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/Legacy/CS/cs163-49.pdf
The putty is both more attractive and renewable. The silicone will destroy the wood should it ever have to be replaced and it will eventually need replacement. Silicone + wood = problems
The Craftsman Blog what do you mean by “silicone will destroy the wood”? You can simply remove it with a utility knife, whereas putty, if set, it’s super hard to remove... I have about 12 more large windows from which I’d like to recover the glass in large pieces or as a whole, any tips for easy removal of putty that was applied over 30 years ago? The easiest I found thus far is cutting the putty with an angle grinder, close to the wood, then with a putty knife pop the putty using the trench left from the angle grinder; chisel doesn’t work, heat doesn’t work, it’s painted over... I wish it was silicone for quick removal
Silicone adheres so we’ll to wood that it will tear out the wood fibers if you try to remove it. Glazing putty though it gets hard over decades can be removed pretty easily with steam or heat applied properly. There are some putties that the old timers added cement to which made them almost impossible to remove smoothly, but those are not the common practice.
They can be exited through very easily since the bottom swings up and away in case you need to exit. And if you use a good quality, rot resistant wood they should last at least 50 years with a little maintenance.
Should they have vent holes in the bottom to drain or air dry condensation? They have hinges on top that allow them to be swung open? If so, how well do they seal off? Maybe apply a thin seal on the back against the main window?
Great video. My old home has amazing windows and I have the original screen windows but only 1 storm window. The meeting rails on the existing aluminum storm windows are in the middle and don’t line up at all with the original craftsman windows, which have the meeting rail at about 2/3 of the total window height. I had no idea where I’d find storm windows to match. Now I’ll just plan to make them myself! Thanks.
I was looking for a solution for the windows of my home at Danilovgrad / Montenegro and by the chance saw your video and wished to say thank you. All is very clear and easy; will apply to my home ASAP.
u will have more viewers if u kill the freaking annoying music...stop running the video like speedy gonzalez and take the time to allow us to see the whole process normal speed and without music...ahhhh
