Running the shop heater on WMO seeing how hot I can get it in under 20 mins. UPDATE AS OF NOV 23/15: I've had this stove up to 700F and the smoke alarm hasn't gone off since.
I have seen 10 of these waste oil heaters. So far I like yours best. If you put some sort of shutter on opposing sides of your cook pot... the flame may stay straight and you could regulate air input... and heat output. Somewhat like a wood or coal stove would have. I think an old cylinder coal stove... Penn or Chubby would wirk great. New subscriber here.
Not only was this a FANTASTIC video but I saw that you replied to many the questions people have and didn't neglect them. Definite like and subscribe from me :-) Well done.
Just finished watching this and if you were still wanting a convection heat rather than a primary radiant heat from this I would suggest aluminum tubing. Any shape will do the job, round, square rectangular. even some heavy channel like used in Trailer awning support arms would do a great job and finding twisted/broken awnings would make the channel real cheap. Cut the length of the aluminum the same size or a little shorter than the side of the heat chamber, top to bottom. several pieces to totally surround the chamber would be most efficient. Use a couple or more large stainless gear clamps to squeeze them to the side of the chamber and when burning, the air will be drawn up the center of the pipe/channels and conveyed into the room out the top. This may also lower the exhaust temperatures as more heat will be used and not wasted out the chimney, making the heater more efficient and use less oil. Less oil, even cleaner exhaust. Nice job on the heater.
A fan will make it burn more fiercely and cleaner. This burner is a simple design that does not use any additional power such as a fan or compressor, which adds to your running costs. The secret of this one is apart from collecting the oil there is no additional cost. As with any design there is going to be ways to fine tune it and make it burn better without resorting to a fan.
one time i made a waste oil burner and a foundry furnace. Melted aluminum real good, but then i got ambitious and tried to melt cast iron. with my forced air burner using compressed air to aspirate diesel and a shop vac on blow forcing air into it i successfully melted both the cast iron and the foundry furnace. Just goes to show the power of oil burners.
Good point! I experimented with a forced air diesel rocket design... which will never ever make it onto RU-vid, lol, but it had enormous BTU potential. It became clear that it would've consumed itself had I kept running it.
Moderately heavy oils (Diesel, hot waste oil, etc.) burn in three stages: 1. non-luminous stage: this stage is very clean, but does not generate that much heat. 2. Main combustion phase: this stage generates almost all of the heat and expansion, is relatively clean. 3. Sooty stage: If excessive air is not present in this final stage of combustion, your exhaust will be sooty, smelly and toxic. The reason you install a secondary combustion chamber (the cylinder there) is to properly complete the third stage of combustion. after this last stage, you can safely extract as much heat as possible with a heat exchanger.
+5 Acres on the Bayou Had it up to 30C in there not long ago! Check out my new oil burner videos for some updates and a Q&A session. Thanks for watching!
About every November, we get a little cold snap, I start a fire in the fireplace for a few evenings in a row. Then I look at the collection of nearly full used waste oil containers in my garage after changing the boat oil before winter layup. I consider building one of these to warm the shop. Then I book a week or two at the beach. By the time I get home it's spring and I thank god I don't live where it's cold enough to NEED a waste oil burner, but this is a very nice design. I'd just feel better about it if it only had a tripod leg system rather than 4 less stable legs.
Great video, I would make a better rest for your SS pot to rest on, it looks a little shaky. I also would be careful with an open flame with gasoline in there. Gas fumes will travel to this.
Ive just built my own, use stainless frying pan that is more shallow and fuel is more closer to air , and make it flush to rotor, then it will start pulling really strong off the bat. I stared mine outside on -15C with no issues at all
Hi there great video! I first saw one of these being operated in a mechanic's garage in Turkey while we waited to get a busted turbo replaced. OMG I was so impressed it was heating the whole damn shop and a little smaller than the one you made (an also not as elegant as your one LOL). That was like in 2010 and i went nuts looking for what that thing was so i could build one, LOL I only got as far as a prototype you could never put inside but the principle was the same. I had to use a big industrial drill press at work to make my holes in the "swiss cheese"/air intake pipe, that was the hardest part. You've done a great job! I subbbed!
My design is similar except I left the 4" pipe without holes and the pot cap with a single row of 1/2" holes spaced as closely as possible. The draft of the chimney (hot air rises) causes fresh air to enter the pot, via the 1/2" holes, thereby feeding the fire, consequently a cleaner hotter burn. All mounted under a wood stove. The mass of the wood stove radiates tons of heat into the room.
I moved in to a house with an old rusty woodstove in the basement that had single wall flue piping. I had the piping turn red hot - scared the shit out if me. My infrared gun topped out at 750 fahrenheit so it had to be well over 1,000F. I only use double wall piping after that experience.
The chimney was on the side of the house and protruded about 36" in to the ground. It never sounded as if it were on fire. I removed it actually. One ninja kick from on the roof pushed it right over. Judging from the clay lining and brick in the chimney, it had not once had caught fire. The previous owners swore that burning a box of moth balls was the trick to keeping the chimney/flue clean. Must have worked?
In a garage you would need to have that about three feet off the floor . If you were ever to spill gas on the floor and the fumes alone rolled across the floor they would ignite in a second . I used to sell new cars and I met a guy who nearly got burned to death installing a new vinyl floor with regular vinyl floor adhesive but they didn't turn off a gas hot water heater pilot light . It was a big mistake .
I think the air intake needs to be as low as possible, dill some holes around the side of the stainless steel pot, about 50mm up from the bottom with some means of partially closing for adjustment, all other holes are detrimental as they are allowing excess air to be drawn in which is taking a lot of heat out of the stove and up the chimney, hence the heat haze outside.
Cool build. Adding 1 drop of water to every three drops of oil will increase the vaporization of the oil. Water / oil combination always burns hotter as the water turns to steam it vaporizes the oil.
I run cooking oil through a filter/water separator, a cleaner fuel means you can use a needle/ball valve to get better control of the fuel and heat output'. I cheat a bit though as i use a blower to atomise the oil and generate heat.I have a couple of vid's of my heater and will do a step by step video showing the way I've set it up soon. cheers.
Very amazing... on RU-vid every other video of stoves fueled by waste engine oil needs air blower. I am impressed that your design is burning without any air blower. I wonder are those holes taking air or what. You didnt mentioned what was significance of this multi size holes!
just an fyi, most propane dealers have very good tanks they are tossing that are no longer usable, but make great expansion tanks and waste oil burner chambers. 3/4 hose thread and 3/4 NPT are two different threads. Try putting some very course stainless steel wool in your burn pot. It will more thoroughly expose the oil to the air mass, and burn cleaner and hotter. Smoke is usually the result of cold oil, burning to rich, not enough air, or hot enough combustion. If you run your oil line closer to your burner, it will preheat the oil. Waste oil burns most efficiently when the oil is warmed to between 160 and 180 f degrees. I have built many wast oil heaters. I am concerned that you have a lot of flame and ignition potential exposed to flammable objects in the proximity of your burner. Nice design. Put a split 15 gallon metal can around your burner with a 1" space between the bottom to allow air to come in. That will keep the smoke and exiting flame from being an issue. Try putting a ceiling fan in the center of your room. That dramatically increases the spread of your heat, and makes it feel warm everywhere and may keep your detector from going off. But again great skunk works development of your burner. Flame On Bogie!!
Waste oil heaters use a LOT of oil. My local garage bought one to use oil from car oil changes, thinking it would be like free workshop heating...well it is free, except a busy small garage couldn’t get enough waste oil to keep the heater running,....plus being a commercial unit it wasn’t cheap to buy either....plus here in UK there are regulations like Albatrosses to make any kind of cost savings too difficult.
Nice build...the burn pot needs improvements to be more stable and safe from falling and spilling! Needs brackets to hold it and to allow it to slide! As you mentioned you were gonna change it somehow..,
May I suggest designing an adjustable air flow valve. Many people just control the oil flow but that's not the best way to manipulate a flame. Manipulating the air intakd and output would make a fine blue flame. Maximising efficiency and fuel consumption. The blye flame would need to be able to warm a radiater to not notice a loss in heat. As the flane is smaller but much hotter and fully oxidised .
take a look online for smudge pot. you first design needed a tube from the chimney about half way up going back down to the pot lid and smaller holes going further up to increase combustion chamber size . The tube pressurizes the pot with hot air increasing combustion and burning cleaner. smaller holes help keep pipe integrity and improve draft.
Nicely done! I think you might have even more success with a shallower pan, air is the problem 90% of the time. Less primary holes means less smoke and more efficiency. You got tons of secondary holes, which is good. I got a similar design that I will upload an update about here this weekend.
Good video mate,It would be worth your while when you have the grinder out to cut the cylinder in half and weld a couple of baffles in, it'll slow all the heat heading directly out the chimney.
Nice video. Gave me an idea that you might want to try out. Make a precision control for the height of the pot. If you can lower the pot in minute increments (I would think perhaps and large adjuster that works the way leveling feet work on appliances via threaded stud), then you could drop it straight down for increased airflow that would not create unequal pressure variance from one direction or another, even it is only a couple mm or 1/16". This would keep smoke going up the flu and no flames. You would surely have to construct some sort of leveling mechanism that can withstand the heat and does not use grease or oil.
+Mark Weimer That's actually almost what I did! check out 1:22 where I have those washers welded onto the brake rotor plate. I have two nuts welded into the angle iron that the pot is sitting on, and was going to use bolts to raise and lower the pot with... but I couldn't find the right length of bolts and I got impatient so I just set it up as-is for now, lol. Thanks for the insight! Hopefully I'll get around to completing that portion of it someday.
Bogie Wheelz weld a nut right in the middle of the bottom of the pot and a bolt on to a wide base that sits on the floor. then you can just spin the pot to open and close the primary air.
for your added air should use a bulkhead fitting threw the pot with a plug that u can open and close when you want so u dont have to move the pot and it can stay in place. other then that it is a great idea i think i might make one for my garage.
Secondary burn is a glorious word. I keep bouncing ideas around in my head for a unit that preheats a small draft of air before it's introduced into the smoke at the base of the expansion chamber. Oh if only I had all the time ever.
maybe consider adding a second tap to the oil line and use that to shut the oil off, and keep the first one to adjust the flow, that way you don't have to "guess" the right amount of turns nice looking project
Would it be a good idea to pre heat the burning pot with a small wood fire before starting to drip the oil in?...I'm just curious, it probably doesn't matter...thanks for the awesome video, that's a really cool stove 👍
Not sure if you still have it going or fixed the steel surround idea. Take a look at my video how I used 55 gallon drum to surround my 18" pipe stove. It's 1/4" thick so lot more mass to heat up. Mine has forced air so that makes a difference too.
Think you need a plate in the middle of the burn chamber for the oil to drip onto to flash into a vapor and burn. The burn chamber should be insulated for higher combustion and the exhaust routed to a radiator/heat exchanger to pull the heat out before the exhaust is allowed out of the bottom of the exchanger.
you can just weld strips or plates to side and roof of that thing, making kind of like "cpu cooler" loking things, those metal plates heat up and create helll of a draft between them moving the air, and there are small stove fans that work from heat of your stove to also move air if welding is too complicated.. also you can check for "turbo stoves/burners" and make like spiraling pipes to creata "fan like look" to create stronger and controlled draft in burn chamber..
Hello Bogie, Love the video, Hope you don't mind if i make a suggestion? Maybe if you drilled some holes around the top edge of the saucepan, then you wouldn't have to move the pot over to let air into it. Hope this helps. I'm half way through building one of these from a 47KG Propane bottle.
Hey, If you were to box in the lower half and put in a fresh air duct with damper, you wouldn't ever set off the alarm because of your sealed combustion chamber. As for your exhaust, if you have the room, you could run it as far as possible and use thin or even Aluminum. You wood radiate a lot more heat. I guess you could box in the top and make it a force air unit. I use to dream of putting on in an outhouse size bldg and duct in to house and shop This was probably mix in your other replies, and I'm yacking to much! Cheers
A quick and simple answer to your convection heat issue would be to wrap metal dryer duct around outside of tank from bottom to top, with duct extending into shop.
Weld some 3" exhaust pipes parallel to the tank several around the tank then make a cone on top with a single 4" pipe with a metal fan .... then drill 2 or 3 holes in the top edge of the burn pot with some controle valves flat metal like a bbq grill has
Very good job according to the little smoke that comes out. To use a smaller flame and save fuel, among many other things, I would put the air outlet as low as possible. Thanks for sharing your experiment.
hey we must think a like, I did the same thing brake rotor and cheese pipe, but I did mine 10 years ago, hot water tank heated a 40x40 garage. no problem.
With that much gap at the top of the stainless bowl, I doubt the holes in the brake disc are doing much. Might try drilling some holes in the pan itself. to get a bit more air at the fire.
Would putting a small floor fan facing the upper tank and exhaust increase your overall heat output to your garage? You have excellent ideas and inventions.
+William Brown Thanks William! A floor fan could help circulate air, but it would have to be set up just right so as not to disturb the flame with any external wind-- I demonstrate what I mean here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9sTW1sQ8dWA.html Check out the updated video on my channel to see the convection shroud and fan I've built for it. Cheers!
You Canadians are so polite I am thinking of jumping the wall and trying to blend in. The fuckery in our country is off the hook. I hope it's not like that up there take care good bud brother.
I heard of a similar set-up with used oil in a pot belly stove. When the heat got up and the oil was burning they introduced water to provide the oxygen. Like adding water to a burning frying pan.
Why the external burn chamber? Would it be better inside the tank? Feed oil to the bottom of burn area from below. With your head pressure it will have positive flow.
Hi. I am trying to make this model. What would be your recommendation to improve it? Can you send me a drawing via WhatsApp? +5492944614083. from Argentine Patagonia. regards
You could use a baffle right below the chimney elbow. You are losing much of your heat out the top. A baffle would divert the heat around a steel plate and would cause the compressor tank to be hotter than the chimney elbow.
I thought of putting a V-shaped heat diffuser 3/4 the way up the tank, but I'm actually pretty glad I didn't -- this thing puts off more than enough heat as it is!
So having seen a few videos of these builds, I came to an understanding that those who don’t use fans to boost their combustion are running naturally aspirated oil burns. Which sound great, but use a lot more fuel, produce less power and are less efficient compared to the noisy turbo builds.
say is it possible to use the exhausted heat to run a power generator,,,maybe if you rigged up some kind of water tube heat exchanger to run a small turbine hooked to the generator? free light and heat
think its ok but enclosing it in like a old would stove might be a little safer and adding an adjustable blower might accelerate the process a little faster...
Nice setup how much oil are you using per hour for 300 celcius Ps if you were to use a 12 volt fan like I have you would have an awful lot more heat cheers mate
More oil is used to build up to that temperature, but once things get rolling it only uses about 0.5-0.7 litres per hour. I actually did affix a fan to it in a later model, made a huge difference!
Is there a way to use a pumped oil ... that under pressure .. Doen thru through a nozzle like I saw Done... in an oil burning factory made furnace? I think going to see a furnace manufacture installer heating guy and ask a few questions and get a few part numbers ...-and then I’ve got the solution🤭 ?
I like it and if I'm able to find a free source for oil I would like to build one I think that it's a great way to be worm thanks for the video and what are your videos mostly about so that I might subscribe
