Great vid. Ronny is one of the few 4wd personalities that actually give good advice. How many 79’s do you see on TV with every possible accessory on it because it was given to the presenters.
Gibbet Hoskins my missus is much younger than I am and about 50kg, costs an absolute fortune to run but is pretty handy camping especially on a cold night
Ronny, you’re not the first to talk about this, but I think you might be leading a major shift in how people wheel, and how they think about trucks in general.
But this is how most blokes i know have always had their trucks setup around north Queensland. People with too much money that never go bush seem to get carried away with wasting money on things they never use
Great video Ronnie. More ideas: * Check out what other outdoor enthusiasts are doing. You might learn a perfectly acceptable way of meeting your needs from motorcycle tourers or backpackers. * 2 vs 1 vs 0 fridge. You left off 0. You can still eat well with non-refrigerated stuff and the icy cold beer will taste all the better when you get to the pub. Those backpackers and motorcyclists sure don't have one and they get by just fine. I understand the seduction as much as the next guy. That comfort comes at a big cost though. * If you need/want a cold box, but only for 48 hours or so, plain old ice, dry ice, or gel cold packs might do just fine. Simpler, cheaper, and fewer points of failure too. * A bumper winch isn't the only way to winch. Kinda like there're more ways to drive a nail than a pneumatic nail gun, air hose, compressor, etc. (that is the easiest way though, I'll grant that!) * More weight means you burn more fuel, which means you need to carry more fuel (weight) for the same range. * How much off-road night driving are you _really_ going to do? Plan to make camp every afternoon? Do you need quite that many lights? * All of the above combined, you may decide you don't need a house battery system, battery charging system for it, and all that stuff anymore. * Shade/shelter. Personally, I pull up next to a buddy and we stretch a tarp between our roof racks. Shock cord in the corners. Loop over and clip each corner and done. Far lighter than the awning systems, about as fast to deploy, reduces weight up high, and stores safe from damage. (A friend snagged his awning on a tree. The tree won.) * I also sleep in a hammock slung between the two vehicles, or the vehicle and a tree, or a couple of trees. Not for everyone, but I like it. Super light too. It can be set up on the ground in a pinch. Hammock backpackers have devised some really fast setup and tear down approaches, or you can pack more knowledge and less gear by learning a couple of handy knots. It'll be as fast and instinctive as tying a bathrobe before you know it. * Along with that, there's a saying that we pack our fears. If you're not careful you'll realize you're adding "tow truck" to the packing list because what if you get stuck. Start small with non-technical terrain, make friends with some experienced people, and build up to it. You don't need to clear out the outfitter's shelves to have a fun and safe time. * If you don't add all that weight, you may find the stock suspension is perfectly fine. Yay! Money saved for more toys, trips, or beers. :D Hope someone finds a useful nugget in this old man's rambling.
Advice for life right here. "Along with that, there's a saying that we pack our fears." I have learned this concept but never heard/seen it put to words quite so well, thanks for that.
pretty cool! First overlanding style video I've seen to date that actually takes a common-sense approach to saving weight. As a backpacker, I'm always having to analyze what I pack and why I'm packing it. When I've gotten it wrong I know when I'm only two or three miles into the trail and regretting the weight. The problem with 4X4 touring or camping is that many people don't realize they're overweight until they have snapped an axle, cracked the frame or ended up with an expensive fine. considering fuel costs and tire replacement intervals alone, spending the bucks on lighter weight gear pays off in no time at all!
Lot's of really great lightweight, small gear out of the hiking scene too. Small chairs, small cooksets, really comfy small mats etc. Can help save a lot in cargo space.
I think a point you missed is this.... reducing weight gives you horsepower! Instead of spending $3000 on modding your engine and exhaust.... Just remove 300kg
Hugh Jazz and then modify the drivetrain. That’s how we do it in the US, got to put the most power in the smallest package, remove weight so we can haul extra fuel
I drove a old 1967 Jeep CJ-5, and after lightening it and packed as if I was a hiker, I could stay close to 2200lbs/1000kg total weight, even with a full tank of fuel. I had enough stuff packed for a week and enough toold to deal with the most probably mechanical issues. I have seem so many people here in the US who do the same as there, pack the kitchen sink and bathtub for a 2 day trip. Then they wonder why they cant climb a hill. Back in the late 60's a 4WD club we ran with, actually between all of the members could pretty much replace the entire drivetrain on 1 vehicle, and since 90% of the people drove a Jeep, it was easy. Point of this is if you go with a buddy, split up the tools and spare parts, save you both some weight, and you dont really need 2 or more of some things.
I once had two plastic Jerry cans on my roof rack when I rolled the truck. They didn't even look like Jerry Cans anymore but only one had a small puncture. I was still able to empty them into my tank. (Truck rolled right back onto its wheels)
Personally I think the first thing to do when setting up your rig is to take it to a set of vehicle scales and find out your base line weight. Especially once you have your barwork and 4wd mods knowing how much freeboard you have for weight when you go camping is essential for starting your plans. Alot of vehicles so not include a full take of fuel in their vehicle weights.
This is the most advanced level yet! Being able to travel light is the ultimate in adventure travel. Ask any experienced hiker or adventure motorcyclists. I do both, and keeping it simple, light and compact is the key to success.
pål aukan adventure touring on a Bike sure teaches you light weight. Still there are motorcycle riders that overload too then wonder why they struggle in sand.
Agree. Adventure bike riding we fit everything into a couple of bags and an extra kg effects handling. Combine with hiking gear and you don't need much weight. Titanium, alloy, etc. Sea to summit, exped, etc. Less wear on mechanical components. .
Great video Ronny. The most important weight reduction that most 4wders can make is go back to stock wheels and tyres! All the gear you load into your vehicle is sprung weight. Heavy wheels and tyres is unsprung weight. Much worse for handling, braking performance. I was running 33's on my 79 dual cab and it handled like a bloody boat. I put the stock GXL alloys with stock tyres back on.....huge improvement. Great advice on alloy trays! I optioned my 79 last year with a heavy duty alloy tray. 3 weeks ago fitted an alloy canopy which weighs about 150kgs. So it's almost as light as just having a steel tray! Absolutely no need for a steel tray for camping/touring purposes.
You forgot about tyres. If you are not doing anything extreme you don’t need large tyres. Check out the math with rolling weight and the weight of spares. It’s huge. I’ve been using 31.5 for years without problems. I go anywhere but places designed to challenge hardcore off-roaders. Check out Graham Cahill with 4wd Action. Crazy tracks and he makes it on 31’s. Biggest weight savings and fuel economy, smaller tyres.
anyone i get to my workshop for fabrication i try talk them into Aluminium, it just makes more sense, if your throwing gravel and rocks on your tray everyday then go steel otherwise i will build you an aluminium one ! good video mate.
I liked your videos, but the advices of this one suck: 1. Never share gear or expect it from others. Especially recovery gear. Sooner or later you will be alone, and if you are used to rely on others, there will be a surprise . You must be autoreliant. 2. Putting 200 kg box in? Come on, this is really most stupid thing one can do. Just get a wagon-style jeep. Pick-up trucks suck as tourers. I understand you take this one as a bad example, but if you did it in the past that means you have no idea about off-roading... 3. Fridges?... Who needs them?
Ronnie.... gotta say that although I do (sometimes) consider weight and have already done some of things you suggested.... this is the best 4x4 related video I’ve seen... really, really great stuff. 👍🍻
Awesome set of videos. I could cry when I think about the thousands of hard earned dollars I've spent on modifying vehicles over and over again. Then breaking axels, drive shafts etc due to being over weight. I did receive some bad programming from the military so I always used military grade stuff which weighs more and packed for every conceivable scenario, that was nuts. It literally took me 30 years to learn that light weight and good quality is worth every penny as long as you need it. The last thing both my wife and I still need to learn is we don't need 5 changes of clothes for a month long trip. The big issue for us is weather and temperature changes in the Yukon, Northwest Territories and Northern British Columbia here in Canada. This year we had sleet, rain, blistering sun and heat all in the same day....and today it was +20 celsius and now it is -1. Great points and thanks for posting these as we are modifying our truck again....great timing!
Layering my friend. Layering with your clothes is your friend. Also make you underwear some form of outerwear and vice versa. For example: undershirts->tanktops, shorts -> boxers, longjohns->leggings
Thanks again ronny, much appreciated. Another valuable video to your collection. Talking about lightweight, I think you maybe have to find someone with one of last years "works" landrover, aluminium chassis and whatnot. I'm hooked on toyotas, but nice to see how the other half live... At 150 bag o sand a pop, and that's GBP, not dollars I'm talking about, so needless to say, not everyone will have one as only so many were made, 150 or there abouts. Its a 5.0 v8 petrol, I hear with 400bhp in 90 or 110 form. See ya m8, be looking out for your next vid.
Great advice. I couldn't believe the amount of junk I saw people hauling through the Simpson Desert. The only things I didn't skimp on were the things that would get me out alive - water and fuel. Improvising is half of the fun. Travelling light is key for remote area travel.
One of the nice things about the Drifta drawer setup is they are a lot lighter than the steel equivalent. Drawers are probably like the canopy issue for utes, you can get relatively light weight ones if you pay for the right setup or make it yourself out of the right material. Boxes in the back of a wagon are a bit of a pain compared to good drawers. One of the best things I've bought is a stainless steel bucket--it has so many uses (heating water on the fire, dishwashing bucket, store charcoal in the car etc etc)
I started out with boxes as well and then went to a set of drawers I made myself. Functionally, they're great but damn heavy. So I'm now looking at getting some custom aluminium drawers made up that mimic my design but weight at least 100kg less.
Great video ! Like the condiment and spice idea a lot !! Im going with a low profile winch bumper...its light but it also can be added on to for armor purposes if I ever get to that.....No overland bed rack for me though....Im going with a molle system for mounting tools and accessories. I need a cheap 12v system video......that would be light , hahaha
Awesome Ronny Great work .... , another great video and advice I'm officially hooked . Wish your videos and advice were around 20 years ago when i used to tow my house around the bush and had all the GEAR but no IDEA lol KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK !!!!!
Yep. For touring 32s on alloys would be enough for 95% of people, heaps better fuel usage and less driveline stress too. Probably save 60kg across 5 tyres
@@mrcrazyman95 Be way, wayyyyy more than 60KG over 5 tyres- Just for example the difference between the 100 series factory alloys vs the factory steel rims is close to 15kg for each rim, then the jump from 33's to 35's would be another 20kg per tyre (dont forget to add the weight of air inside em too- thats not an insignificant weight) If it was less than 150kg over the 5 i would be surprised!
Jimmy Forth I don’t think Ronny has ever suggested he’s an expert. He always gives you his opinion, that’s different. You are absolutely right about that he changed after he got bogged. No better reason. After following Ronny for a year or so now I would say the research he would do and no doubt some help from the people he associates with along the way would have assisted him in providing you with the content that was in the video. Why are people always so negative and judgemental?
@@ferremit All depends on the brand of tires etc, some 35's are lighter 33's. My 33" Nittos (70lbs) are heavier than BGF K02's 35's (68lbs) The difference between BFG KO2's 33 and 35 would be about 4.5kg per tire.
LycaonAlpha lithium is also more usable. 120ah of lithium is 120ah of usable power. For a AGM it’s more like 80 to 90 or less usable. Means less solar is needed, even more weight savings.
Another great video Ronny. Very good information well thought of. Thank you for taking the time to share this much needed info with us. Safe travels out there. Squirrel 😀
Thanks Ronny, I'm doing all the research I can and saving for a 79 , I like the patriot super tourer, looking at other 4x4 companies also, when I'm ready its going to be awesome.
This is truly great stuff! I found a good teacher for traveling light is to Overland by motorcycle (or study their pack outs), when that pack out is sorted, transfer it to the 4x rig. Then add the 4x "only" required accessories (recovery gear, parts, tools etc.). After that, if capacity is left, add upgraded/convenience items. Also, drop excess personal weight (many benefits). My 2¢.
Great advise. I come from a hiking and light weight camping background. So I still use my hike stove and cooking gear every trip away. Being light weight takes up less space as well which is a big help on longer trips away. Less weight = less fuel = more beers.
nice one with those smaller plastic containers for sugar and stuff. shame they not easy to find on some areas or they just in specialized hiking shops and cost a lot money. but in some places they sell tomato sauces and other sauces in those soft plastic stuff. i would say if you still need your car for daily driving just use soft bags or plastic boxes to put stuff and then when you come home just remove them andd you have your car space back for other needs.
As far as removable stuff that gets added to go away, the big test for me is whether the same springs work well whether the truck is loaded or empty. If it works in both cases, then it isn’t too much gear.
Long time backpacker here. Weight is a killer whether you carry it on your back or load it in your car. Great advice. Really like your vids. Thanks for sharing.
Big ticket items where I have saved bulk weight in one go: 1. remove unneeded seats or swap to lighter more confortable aftermarket drivers seat. 2. replace winch cable with rope 3. Don't tow and you save 200kg towball downweight. 4. Choose alloy wheels 5. Only carry enough fuel and water for the trip I'm doing. 6. self inflatable mattress instead of heavy stretchers 7. replaced steel roof rack with alloy and used a smaller gas bottle like you mentioned
Thanks for another good video Ronny. An important thing to consider is your vehicle type. Utes have a greater load capacity than your average wagon so being mindful of your weights is even more important there. I started looking at my setup a couple of months back so a timely video. You'll have to let us know what the new fighting weight is with the changes you've made.
Tip #11 Leave the misses and her bags at home, you'll save about 100 kg depending on how long she's been in the good paddock getting comfortable and how many shoes she owns. Best to just leave the anchor/handbrake at home.
Bloody well done Ronny , the original idea was to get away from it all not take it all with you . 😎👍🍺 p.s I hope you have seen Mr Buckeroonies challenge he put out 😉
Been building mine for 6 using exactly these ideas. Bought the 4wd with a brand name steel roof rack (96kg with mountings) and recently gave it away after I bought an Iron-man full length alloy rack (33kg with mountings). My available roof load jumped from 4kg to 67kg but I shed overall the overall load (gvm) to have space to upgrade my charge system for the 4wd and caravan. Glad to hear I am not the only one thinking like this.
Andrew -How true!Clutter and excess gear doesn’t always mean that you have all the bases covered. As I get older I’ve found that I have a desire to de clutter and streamline my 4x4 gear, my camping gear and my home!It makes you feel more efficient and less encumbered. Have a great day.👍
Great Video. I am building a slide on camper and so much of what you are saying is so relevant to me right now. So its Aluminium and composite panels all the way. All the Rivets and less of everything to keep the things inside my GVM. So thanks again and keep honest clear info comin!
Aluminum wheels like EVOCorse DAKARZERO 16x8 -20MM will save 15Kg for a set of 5 vs steel wheels, are rated for 1500Kg and can be drilled up to a 6x165mm bolt pattern.
They’ll also crack rather than bend if they take a hit, and the weight saving has less impact on performance because it’s not sitting on the suspension.
@@Scatterpattern Ronny's steel wheels would be mangled beyond repair before the EVOCorse DAKARZERO wheels would crack. And lighter wheels would allow the tire/wheel to follow the corrigations/bumps better at speed equaling a smoother ride and more traction(the tire will be able maintian contact with the ground at a higher percentage of the time traveled across a surface).
Good Video Ronny. You also need to ensure the GVM is spread over the max axle ratings. There is also max limits on roof weights. Strategic planning of where accessories are fitted between axles will help balance the vehicle. Every mod adds weight to the vehicle mass, that's from bigger tires & springs to every switch, light and length of cable, plus your gear that is unless you remove something. So as Ronnie is saying plan well from the start which includes buying a vehicle that will give you the carrying capacity you require including the weight of the mods you want to add through out the vehicle.
Hey Ronny how about you load up your truck for a typical trip of a few weeks , full fuel , water ect and run it over a weigh bridge and tell us the actual axel weights .
Great video, love this sort of content mixed in with the traveling ones. After having my own experience with a heavy 79 up to the cape a few years ago I decided to weigh everything before a big Kimberley trip. After working out the added items to my 79 (being the usual things added for touring) GVM 3300kg minus Kerb weight 2065kg = 1235kg pay load, minus....... 1055kg of added stuff (including people, fridge, batteries, water, roof top tent, bull bar & winch, spare tyres, alloy box's & 300kg alloy tray) I had 180kg left. That's right with my 79 completely empty but setup ready to go I could add 180kg's of stuff to survive and that didn't include fuel which you guessed it my factory toyota tanks can hold 180L of diesel Let's just say we still went on the Kimberly trip, I tried very hard and spent a fair bit of money making my setup lighter but guarantee we were still over weight, I even removed the tow bar I can see now that most vehicles are overweight almost impossible to be under when 4wd touring. The bit that surprised me the most about this video was the weight of a fridge slide... WTAF??... 50kg for a fridge slide? that's insane
Dual cab with tub and canopy: 1 x 60L fridge, fixed, no slider. Using plastic boxes for storage, with straps to keep in place. Cab rack takes only clothes and bedding, in a dedicated cab rack bag. Roof rack on canopy for jack, shovel, solar panel. Rear seat comes out for more gear storage. Auxiliary batteries up against headboard in tub, forward of rear axle. Tent fits in a bag, no roof top tent. ...and put it over the weigh bridge when setup, but otherwise empty, gives me the new tare weight, over each axle. Keep track of other gear we add buy weighing them on a 150kg scale.
If you need the space that 2 fridges provide but don't want to run 2 motors, consider using a Two Zone that clips on top of the base unit. That way you can have a freezer (at the bottom) and a fridge (at the top). When it comes to Jerry cans, we have been using them for over 20 years and the ONLY one the ever had a leak in it was a steel one. We got rid of that and have used plastic ever since.
Another way to setup a tourer, able to tow & can carry a lot of weight, is by doing a chassis extension. I don’t care which vehicle it is, you must do a chassis extension, because it’ll make the car drive a lot better, even with a lot of weight. Altho if you are concern about weight... still do a chassis extension, but go for either a half or quarter box, or even a full on open tray, and put all your necessary gear in it. Don’t overload your truck with unnecessary gear without doing a chassis extension because, 1, it’s dangerous, 2, it’ll handle like an absolute pig because all the weight hangs behind your truck.
I never understood all these 4wdrivers out there with super heavy Hiluxs and landcruisers, I'm building my 1981 Hilux to be as light as possible, bone stock the hilux is only about 1,450kg which is about 500kg less than most new dual cabs from factory so im off to a good start lol, weight makes a massive difference on soft sand and black soil country
I don't get the huge fridge thing. How many days are you out for? How much food? American long distance backpackers are total freaks about weight, but they re-supply every 4-5 days. How many days between resupply for off roading? When I backpack, or car camp, I bring fresh eggs, in the UK these can be left unrefrigerated for days, even American eggs which are washed and need to be kept cold will keep fresh for days un-fridged. Maybe Australia is just too hot. Propane gas. I've got a big tank, and a couple small ones like you recommend. With a few inexpensive fittings, you can refill these small ones from the big one. One of these smaller ones has more gas than I can use in a week of cooking, so if I'm going out for longer I'll carry two. No problem. re: the small bottles. The right size small bottles are tough to find, if they're sold in ones and twos they're way over priced. So get together with your mates and divide up the problem. They cheaper in bulk. Maybe buy 10 or 20 sets of the various sizes and share them. (Some you'll also want to use at home.) "Coming from a hiking background" That's where I'm coming from as well. My backpack weight is always too much, but if I worry the ounces I'll still be overweight, but it'll be a weight I can carry. So even if you're not one of those super-ultra-lightweight guys, trying to be one is a huge plus. Sleeping. The long distance backpackers are lightweight freaks, but they all carry air mattresses and air pillows. They're just too comfortable. I lived above a discotheque for over a year. 1st three months I couldn't sleep until the music stopped, second 3 months I couldn't sleep after the music stopped, Finally after 6 months I can sleep through anything. So I'm a sleep expert. The way I've learned how to sleep almost anywhere, is rule number one: after 24 hours awake you will fall asleep and like it. So don't try new kit on a regular night. So practice air mattress, air pillow at home. Tip: tie a string to your air pillow, run it around the mattress and tie it to the pillow, just a bit of a squeeze around the mattress. Keeps it in place. Most sleep problems are things we're not fully aware of, slight drafts, the pillow moves around, our shoulder is a bit cold... snoring. What do others have to say? Your wife knows more about how you sleep than you can ever figure out. Listen to her. You can 'sleep' for 12 hours; but if you snore you won't feel rested. Sleep apnea is worse. That's those overweight guys at work nodding off at lunch. They haven't had a night's sleep in decades. My standard sleep gear is air mattress and pillow, sleeping bag, bag liner and minimal bivy sack. With these I can sleep comfortably from 0C to 35 C, bugs, rain, inside my car, a hostel, or wilderness surrounded by bears, mountain top. When I wake up in my car bunk, I just open everything up to air it out, backpacking, I let out the air and roll everything up together loosely, tie it to my backpack. 1 minute. That night? another minute to roll out. Two more minutes to blow up the mattress and pillow. And a ground cloth the same size as the bivy. Sorry to go on and on. We're all locked in for corona.
Mal wieder ein supertolles,Video. Ich habe fast alle deine Videos mit großer Begeisterung gesehen. Obwohl ich nur einen Honda cr-v bj 2002 fahre habe ich viel von deinen Videos gelernt. Besonders die Videos mit den Bergeutensilien habe ich mehrfach angeschaut. Mach weiter so.... 👍👍 Dankeschön, Ronny
You guys are caring way too much shit with you. It's just insane to install refrigerators and all these drawers. My camping stove literally fits my pocket. Everything is collapsible from laundry buckets to my sink measuring cups. The only large bulky item that I would not give up is my propane shower. I overheat and sweat like crazy, I'm not happy unless it's at the point of freezing. The propane shower also saves me a lot of money in propane. Cooking or washing dishes, it's a thousand times more energy efficient to my stove. It does help to conserve water as well.
Lot's of ways to save weight (and money and space} Do you really need a roof-top tent? Swags are fine for short trips of two or three days and if you plan to stay longer then why not pitch a tent. Even if you plan on doing extended trips over long distances, do you really need long-range tank/s fitted to your vehicle? How likely is it and how often do you plan on travelling those really long distances between fuel stops? Jerry cans work fine and can be left off the vehicle entirely when not required. Do you really need the ability/capacity to carry 120 litres of water in vehicle-mounted tanks? Easy enough to have a much smaller tank and then carry your extra requirements in bottles or other containers. Even if you want the luxury of a portable hot-water shower, do you really need to use it every day, or will a sponge-bath out of a bucket do you for a day or so in-between so you don't need to carry (and waste) unnecessary water? Fridges are another issue. Do you really need a pull-out/drop-down slide? What's wrong with having enough cable that if access is an issue, you and a mate can lift the fridge out and sit it on the ground? Cheap and effective. Actually, do you even need a fridge at all? Nothing wrong with a good ol' esky and ice. The beauty being that if you freeze bottles of drinking water it can be used for both keeping stuff chilled and consuming and you don't end up with your food swimming in a soup of thawed ice and water. A really good top-quality ice chest costs a quarter of a portable fridge and a whole lot less when you consider it requires zero electrical power to run, so you can save a heap money, space and weight on the electrical side of things. Packed well, only opened as needed and stuff covered in layers of wet newspaper as it empties and it is amazing how long ice will last to a point that food is still kept well chilled and fit for consumption. Slide-out stoves and kitchen set-ups are convenient, but at what point do you draw the line at the weight, space and cost benefits and outlays? Those very portable gas stoves come in a case that run on butane cartridges are cheap and effective, but have the downside of the disposable waste. Carry one as a back-up and you can at least get the weight-saving advantage of not needing as much bottled gas. Batteries and electrics are another area where weight savings can be found. If you really do need plenty of power and often, then it does make lithium systems worthy of thought. A full 100AH lithium system weighs less than a single AGM battery. Given you probably need two AGM batteries to deliver similar usable power output... Buy what you really need and add to it later. Always think of whether things you add are needs or a wants and remember that there is always a trade-off between necessity and convenience. I'd much rather go without certain luxuries if it means I can then carry more fuel, water, food, tools, spares, recovery gear, safety equipment and other essentials.
I have always been of the mindset of keeping things as lightweight as possible. I just underwent my first 3 week long trip where I was pretty much packed to the gills and we learned a lot--what is needed, what can be left behind, and what we could probably do without. We were on our own so we had no ability to rely on others in a caravan which meant I had to bring tools to keep us going. Thankfully I only had to use tools once over 4700 miles in 3 weeks!
Really late comment; But do not use knives or utensils with the black coating for food preparation/eating. The black coating is a carcinogen. They look cool and serve as rust prevention, but at a cost.
Another idea for the condiments is to go to places like Campbells and buy the cafe single-use packets in a box and just stack them in something like a school lunchbox so they don't get squashed.
