You should have got equal measured amounts of contaminants and pulled them through the filters with a hover for equal times and measured the amounts that passed again.
Appreciate you doing these tests, and a more restrictive paper filter will obviously filter better than a higher flowing oiled filter. But it's funny how for the first paper filter you're barely tapping it on the table so no particles go through while the K&N you're hitting it on the table much much harder, re-watch your own video and see for yourself.
I have seen these oil analysis tests with OEM VS K&N with no prob with K&N at all. Even K&N had better filteration rate and prevented harmful materials from accumulating inside the engine such as zinc, iron....etc
Watch these 3 videos presenting the results of used oil analyses before and after switching to a K&N air filter: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uvExyfxzsRo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cU8UMlMzi30.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7D9lJxQ1s-U.html
@@hamedso9030 you're just straight up wrong. Every video that does the oil analysis shows a drastic increase in Iron coming out of the oil. Meaning there is a massive increase (up to 40%) in engine wear.
I bet installed in cars these filters will not knock hard on themselves letting debris through as when knocked on the table + If you are not doing of road and hitting asphalt only, then these performance filters + remap will be alright
Thank you for this video, this is quite interesting. However without recreating the pressurised environment you will only be guessing about the filtering effectiveness. Send the filters to Project farm! He could use the other half PS I realise it's an older video
All filters are directional so why did you pour the test contaminates on the wrong side (air out let) VS instead of the air inlet side? Also the K&N appeared to be not oiled properly which would make it an instant fail just like your test. Lastly as someone who has used oiled filters for over 30 years I would not recommend them for a daily used street vehicle. I use them on 100% off road applications, race vehicles and other vehicles often used in very dusty conditions. They work just a good as paper filters “if oiled correctly” and that is the issue many have IE not knowing how much oil to use or what the correct service interval is.
The kn filter is oiled from the factory to their specs. It was brand new. You couldn't oil it better to their specifications since they actually did it. The filter media itself is not directional.
@@vincentyap3188 I guess you’ve never been caught behind other vehicles or gone riding in a group? Where can I find these completely empty roads and trails?
@@gj91471 I don't know what year of racing engine you are talking about but modern race engines always use filtering for longer races where contaminants may ruin the engine. When I was at Keith Black Racing engines they weren't used on Drag race engines or boats due to them being rebuilt after every pass. But racing engines use good aftermarket filters.
I buy my Yamaha royal star venture used. It had 30,000 miles on it, and it had K & N stock replacement air filters, there are two air filters on these machines. I have a video on my RU-vid channel, Yamaha royal star venture major flaw is the title of it. In that video, I pointed out all the filth and dust inside my intake system. I was blaming that on loosefitting plumbing of the intake system to the carburetors. But it turned out to be the K and N Eric layers were leading all of that dirt in… I have another video pointing out what I would do if I were anyone watching the video that had KNN air filters in their machine. They may pass more air which they do in testing, but, they also let more than 10 times the dirt get in. A RU-vidr with a website called project farm prove that by sifting flour into a box with a vacuum below the box, pulling air through the filters in a comparison with a meter that measured particulates that go through the filters. The K and N oiled air filter was the one that passed the most air, and the most Particulates
@@bhvrdr thanks. Also agreed. But the fact foam is the choice for off road and KN type filters recommend foam as pre filter to increase filtering efficiency up to 90% makes me think foam may still be as good as paper type filter.
When it comes to filters its not the vehicle that benefits it's the person. If you're a lazy person get the OEM filter. If you like spending hours on your vehicle then get the Sprint. And if you want peace of mind get the BMC/K&N.
I agree except piece of mind would be the OEM filter as they filter best and being cheap would be the KN filters as they are much less expensive than most OEM over the course of vehicle ownership
@@bhvrdr the problem with ORM filter is that you have to keep replacing. With KN and BMC you can simple clean and reuse. When out in the woods I rather have one that I can reuse.
@@h.nguyen4193 it is a good point you make which is the difference between having to clean a filter vs just replacing a filter. I'm personally not a big fan of cleaning the cotton gauze filters they really are made out of cotton gauze and if you've ever inspected one after 100000 miles the cotton has broken down quite significantly I'd be happy to show pictures of ones of mine that have. I tend to replace cotton gauze filters at around 50,000 miles. I don't use them in any vehicle that sees significant Dusty environment of course.
@@bhvrdr I ride a triumph street triple motorcycle and it’s wicked important to have a clean filter. But the trade offs are the same. Instead of changing or cleaning the filter after years, a motorcycle filter is change or cleaned annually.
You know that the K&N filter should be slightly moistened with a special oil dedicated to these filters. I do not know about the sprintfilter,or BMC filters but I am guessing that it should also not be used dry either.
Of course. The bmc and kn are oiled filters that come from the factory pre oiled. Thsts cotton gauze style. Sprint is single layer synthetic dry filter. Never ever oil those or theyre ruined.
When he tested both of the reusable filters and said not bad, it is bad. Because if you can see “anything” with the naked eye after his test, that filter is garbage. You notice you couldn’t see anything visible with the naked eye after the paper filter test. Particle abrasives that are far too small to see, will do long term damage to your engine.
That is a pretty common sense answer that is the trade-off you want more air in your engine to produce more horsepower supposedly the obvious answer is yes it's going to let more debris in as well choose your poison.
Esos filtros *sólo* son para motores que uses en carreras o en un circuito y que no van a tener que durar 300 mil km. *No* son para un motor de uso normal a diario. Para un motor que quieres que dure cientos de miles de km. hay que filtrar el aire todo lo que se pueda, aunque eso suponga una mayor restricción de flujo/menor caudal de aire.
Run the same test with a foam filter. Don't use a Pipercross as they are too thin. A Unifilter or something designed for dusty conditions would be ideal. Foam filters ~50% more than paper. 🙂
The video could be misleading. You need to show whether the filters were oiled as required. The video seems like the filters were dry, which is not the right way to use these filters
if this does not persuade you from buying an aftermarket crapfilter then by all means go ahead go for it and take a chance on scratching up them cylinder wallz over time and reducing the life span of your engine ! it is so worth that 1-5 hp.
After 10 years of having a KN in my car she starts up like a charm. Hardly uses oil.... Yeah really bad for my car..... Cylinder walls and piston rings must be shot...... SMH
@@omgwtflmaololrotfl2368 you can drive around for 10 years without an air filter and what will that prove if your car starts up ? 😆 people at the track run without air filter whatsoever you could be just like them.
You spilled the iron dust over the back side and then drug the filter across it when you pushed the filter back on the very last one, i feel like most of the iron dust we seen was spilled
So what i got from this video is OEM filter is good all around. But other filters are more for if you want a bit more air to gain that +1 hp in your car?
Great video..How about the use of the Kn oil with the filter?.I live in the mountains..up a Non paved dirt road...I wonder if the oil added would catch the fine dust that I see all summer long..Perhaps another test?..
Thanks. The bmc and kn filters come oiled from the factory. Yeah you definitely want to use them oiled but i wouldn't oil a sprint filter. They're designed to go without it and you could cause clogging or breakdown oiling it.
I have visited 2 air filter companies inching BMC in Italy. I real world applications these results would not happen and tiny particles will burn up anyway. I appreciate your effort but very deceptive results.
@@bhvrdr ....if it is so bad for the engine that the small particles will be sucked inside - all engines would be on the junkyard after say about 50.000 miles! But it isn´t so! I bet there are engines outside with 200.000 miles fittet with sport filters and they are in a totally normal condition!
they do happen over time...so you visiting companies in Italy proves that aftermarket filters work better than OEM? OHHH K LMAO .... go back to those two BMC filter companies and ask them to put Your car on a dyno rev it to 6000-7000 rpm and let you air snorkel suck up hand full of sand ...first do it with OEM filter and after scope your cylinder walls and then do the same thing with BMC , K&N or which ever aftermarket performance filter... let them two companies scope those cylinders walls after that ... lol
The thing is most people are idiots and they get sold on the whole high flow race filter thing when the only thing they do with their car is drive it on the road like on the road when that stuff is designed for race cars and bikes on a track for very short amounts of time with engines that get rebuilt and maintenanceed extremely often. OEM air filters are designed for people who will drive a car on dirty roads for long periods of time. If you aren't driving on a race track or maintenance and rebuilding your engine very often stick with the OM filter. If you race and every single horsepower matters use sprint or don't even use an air filter at all if you want the most power and max airflow. But if you want your engine to stay clean and last as long as possible stick with the OEM
mmmm think I’ll just change my OEM annually regardless of mileage. Just one drive across a dusty car park with a performance filter in and all that crap will be going into your engine.
The filters seem very dry to me. Not sure you being very honest. Maybe do a test where you show how you lube the non oem filters. Also go read up on the pulse effect from the valves and performance filters.
K&N and BMC come pre-oiled from the factory. They actually caution against over oiling as this can damage fine wire maf sensors. If you oil a sprint filter you'd destroy it. Sprint filters are dry filters
@@bhvrdr car does not use oil. So cylinder walls and piston rings must still be fine. Also my car is 22 years old 1999 model. She has 250k kilos on the clock. Straight 6 4L motor. So not a new car and she has had her fair share of work. I service her myself. Dunno after the filter change from oem to the KN she just seems so much more happy. Towing big caravan every now and then. Never broke down since I had her from new. Not once. Did not feel a performance increase maybe just a bit better consumption on the open road.
Engineers : **went to college, learned about engineering and then developed the right filter for the engine** Boy racers : "K&N filter wow must buy!! And it only costs 4x as much as the OEM filter!!"
@@mc1996 no no they ARE engineers they just did not get hired by car manufacture companies ...all biter they got together and came up with a ploy to swindle money from boy racers by designing aftermarket filters and it worked . :)
@@hunterharison LOL, because car manufactures have only the best engineers... You realize that K&N filters are on the market for 50 years by now, and are the most used filters on race (on and off road) cars, bikes, trucks. Do you know much manufactures with 60 years of history, 50 years on the market and with air filters designed to virtually every vehicle with a engine?
@@mc1996 car manufactures dont have the best engineers...but just because someone makes something for 50-60 years and does fancy adds to lure not so bright it does not mean they sell superior product filtration wise... most bikers, racers , tear up and rebuild those engines often for you to use them as an example...lol ... to make a claim aftermarket performance filters filter just as good if not better is just dumb.
@@hunterharison Who buys a performance air filter for the better filtration? No one, LOL. All that to say these filters don't filter as good as a paper filter on most of original models? No wonder, what a surprise! Its not suppose too. Who is being dumb now?
Again, another guy that gets the "performance filters" wrong. Although they can increase from 2 up to 10 hp that's not what they are made to do(k&n). They are made to significantly increase the gas pedal responsiveness and improve the long lasting ability of the filter. They won't harm your engine and they will defenately do the job way better than the OEM ones. And also you actually pay way less for a performance one because you need to change your OEM every 70.000km in comparison with the performance one where you just clean it. It's a good video anyways.
Gas pedal response is controlled by the throttle controller. There is zero difference between these and oem filter logging throttle pedal position versus throttle body position which is the only way to objectively measure response. Filtering down to only 70 micron is absolutely able to let in contamintes that can cause long term damage. Because of engine tolerances its actually the 5 to 10 micron range contaminates that can fit into tight tolerances and cause damage. Yes you can use a reusable filter as a means of saving a few dollars every 20k miles however if youve ever seen some dry and oiled filters after a few years id highly recommend not doing that. Despite advertising the media (cotton or synthetics) dont last forever lol. You ever seen a cotton shirt after two years of daily wear? Ive personally seen bits of the cotton media and synthetic degrade over time to the point the intake tract is filled with red fibers.
The testing isn’t that well. You wouldn’t have any problems. I switched to a cold air intake to remove these problems. Oem filters are usually pretty shitty quality and I had more dust in my air box with oem them drop in air filters like k&N. I now have a aem cold air intake for my 19 Sti
@@Goyxrd3 Only cold air intake for mine is done in US, and I'm in Italy. And costs A LOT (more than 480$ from Eurocompulsion). Now, considering my car has a 200HP engine which is the electronically (exclusively) downpowered version of the 280HP and that with a stock airfilter I can bring it back to around 300HP, I think I'll go on that way :) No need for cold air intake as it's already done that way from Alfa, the only reason for a change would be the (good) intake noise, but not for 480$ :)
I have had K&n in my car not for performance but saving some $$$. Been 10 years in my car and I have had 0 issues. Same goes for my MT09 I have DNA filter again not for performance but saving $$$ here and there. The test this guy does is somewhat flawed. As he completely fills the filter with dust. Wont happen in real world. And his fters seems dry. They need a proper coating of oil.
I would suggest that looking insider the air-box is a good indication. it should be clean on the manifold side, dusty and dirty on the intake side. I guess a lot depends on the environment the vehicle is used in..A vehicle that is used only on public roads/highways is obviously going to have an easier life than one that is using rough tracks/off roading for extended periods.... I use a K&N filter on my Triumph Street Triple 675 with no problems..
From an old mechanic and a retired engineer. The best air filter there ever was is an oil bath type and they were replaced with the throwaway paper elements (mid 1960's) due to servicing the oil bath was messy and time (money) consuming. The problem with paper elements is quality and they don't last long; I've seen the sand get into them and cut right through the paper, not good. The K&N filters were invented by a desert racer who went through a lot of engines due to the paper elements downfall and there is no way an oil bath would work in that environment, due to vehicle movement. Take a look at the air inlet location, airbox design and where you drive (asphalt, sand or high dust) for a real world analysis as to what may come towards the air filter to begin with. Hope this helps and it's a free world to choose which way you want to go.
You always have to balance/ compromise filtration efficiency and decreased horsepower. At low RPMs there probably won't be much of a difference. At higher rpms the K&N will have a very small advantage. In acceleration experiments , it will be a fraction of a second. One good experiment to try is long distance MPG measurements in hot dusty conditions versus ice cold clear winter air and see how each of these perform.
Modern engines aren't failing due to anything to do with the quality (or lack thereof) of OEM paper air filters, however. This isn't the 1960's anymore.
I agree to give the filter time to absorb the oil....but a can of M A F sensor cleaner should remove the oil on sensors...Disconnect the battery first or unclip the M.A.F and let dry an hour or so before reinstalling...I'm no mechanic..But this worked for me and many others as well on youtube.
What people seem to forget that these sport filters aren't technically supposed to be used for daily driving. My daily is my only car and I bought a K&N filter when I want to do more spirited driving during my holidays, for the daily commute I always use the OEM style air filters :)
Yeah you’re totally right. I’m only use K&N filter for track day… other than that, OEM paper filter should work flawlessly for daily drive and keep engine longevity and durability for many years ahead.
Thank you, so annoyed that this isn’t talk about more or tested more. Would like to see how foam filters like Pipercross would perform and with finer particles. If you are ever up to it.
Oil analysis shows that 100% of the time you get an increase in iron from your engine oil when you put in one of these filters. That means more engine wear. Don't do it. Even then videos where the "professional K&N user/maintainer" tries to prove they're fine, they miss the mark and show that their engine is being consumed up to 40% faster
I'm sorry but this was a failed test. Let me explain why... You poured the dust onto the wrong side of the filters which does make a difference. Also...no explanation as to which filter was supposed to be oiled or if they were all dry flow. Also...I've never seen my filters bounce like that. Filters sitting onto of a running shop vac would've been way more practical while pouring the dust onto the correct side of the filters.
@@vincentyap3188 how can even sand, the same amount in the video go inside the hood of a car? and more so, how can you make the air filter violently shake like he did in the video?
Most engine damage is done by particles in the 5-20 micron range. Even a 37 micron filter does not inspire confidence though it's better than 80 for sure.
Fantastic video thank you for this. I just did a magnets on the oil video and was wondering about metal dust getting through the filter and here you have it.
your test are not accurately true btw bcse u need to pour the exact same amount and shake with the same amount and preassure too,btw thanks for this information
I sold all my DNA, K&N filters a while ago for my bikes due to this, TBH they were running worse for me with them too as they're so out of spec compared to factory filters
@@bikersquest To get the MOST of what, performance or longevity of your motor? You have to qualify what you are looking for. Known fact that aftermarket header and muffler with proper fueling will outperform most stock set ups. But there have been some tests I can vaguely remember being very close, especially on newer bikes.
@@sfzx54 Reliability yeah, I'm not looking for tuning my bikes anymore. of coiurse with a map and full system + high flow filter you can get lot more out of a bike but I rather just get a faster bike at that point.
Keep telling yourself that, if that was the truth you wouldn't be able to mod engine to get double the HP by using other brands of parts. Car manufacturers cut costs everywhere they can. I also guarantee the decent quality suspension will also be much better than stock.
Has the K&N been oiled? Also, doesn't the air pass through all those filter from the bottom to the top, not from the top to the bottom, as you had poured the sand/dust?
That is an extremely high quality BMC filter which is well known in the industry of being at least the quality of a k&N filter which are much more budget priced and built but they use the exact same technology which is four layer offset cotton gauze
@@bongodave13 You don't have to buy it just simply have to look up the information because it's factual and not opinion. BMC filters are manufactured in Italy and were designed in collaboration with Formula 1 and are of the highest quality known if you look at objective testing. And I think you know where k&N stands.
Questa prova potrebbe essere Idonea per chi percorre strade molto Polverose, ma per tutti quelli che usano l'Auto o la Moto in strade comuni credo che lo Sprint Filter sia il più adatto a far respirare più il motore, come se una persona respirasse meglio con bocca e naso nella sua corsetta di tutti i giorni, mentre se si percorrono più strade Polverose allora NO.
The main function of an air filter is to FILTER air. Of course I choose the filter-type that does its job best. I won't waste money for cotton-"filters" that in fact are sieves and unqualified.