@@KoaRothman Agree with everything but the leash. Sure, if it’s crowded and/or the waves and beach type (rocky) require it I’m leashed but if it’s beach break and uncrowded I’m unleashing every time. Also, heaps of Puero Escondido surfers go leashless as they notice they break more boards with a leash. But, yeah, in the context of surfing Country leashes are pretty much the jam.
I like this. Makua is a classic example of how I know Hawaiians. My step-grandfathers, one from Kauai, Meheula, died after Korean war. and later one from Honolulu, Pohaku. The later grandfather drove Geyhound, then Greyline tours for 37 years out of Rainbow Towers, Hale Koa Hotel area. My Grandma would send me a ticket to visit and surf between '77-'79 Grandpa Stone would take me and my board to work and drop me off at a beach, Sandy Beach, Makaha, Waimea. And pick me up after tour. My Grandma eventual move to the Kapiolani Manor, 12th floor. I could just see Kaisers between the high-rise hotels. Kaisers became my spot. Learned to surf backside there, right into the bowl! I had a 7'6 Skip Frye rounded pin, single box fin.🤙😎
there are two ways to learn this stuff... thank you Koa, you are offering the far easer way. (both ways involve humility, but one way you choose to be humble and the other way it is impressed upon you).
I know that it's kind of covered in 3 or 4 of of the topics but should be talked about. Craft doesn't give you priority. The same rules apply even if you sit in different areas. IE. Longboard vs shortboard, vs bodyboard etc. They all take off in slightly different areas as their craft is suited for different things. That is something that needs to be in your mind esp if you're able to take off earlier than everyone and sit further out (LB) or inside and deeper (boog).
I agree, however there's been many times when I've seen people miss a lot of waves because they're on the wrong equipment. If you're missing waves on a tiny board in soft and/or small waves IMO you're out of the rotation.
My experience as a Puerto Rican surfing in Puerto Rico is that every of the DON'TS that Koa mentioned like snaking, paddle around, etc locals do it to other people. I don't know if this happens more than often in other parts of the world but its crazy. Also locals don't respect locals.
100% agree! The problem is that they're assh*les with locals as well. It's kind of a badtrip cause it damage the experience even if the problem is not with you directly. @@KoaRothman
That is the unfortunate reality of waves being a scarce commodity, live with it or move on. I usually move on since i am in it for the fun, not to be around angry people.
@@sacredgeometrees when you surf as good as Koa or anyone else in his squad, you get waves. When Koa shows up to "wherever he goes" aka 15ft tubes, he's not going to blow waves and the local guys will most likely want to trade waves with him because he rips and isn't an a**hole. If you rip hard and have a good attitude, chances are you'll get waves at most spots.
Koa is The best surfer RU-vid channel. He inspires me to surf good or bad conditions. Been surfing Mission beach for three years. This winter will be my first on the north shore. Hope to see you in the water
So excited for the upcoming El Niño swells 🤙🤙🤙 Glad to see you and Nathan healing up. God bless you guys hope you have a good day and as always thanks for sharing with us and making it feel like we are tagging along 🤙✝️❤️
Well said Koa 👏 One thing id add in is DO apologise ... as we all get it wrong but it makes the biggest difference to people if you hold your hand up shout sorry and then everyone can enjoy the rest of their surf.
Great to see some opinion and your perspective on what’s acceptable and not. The behavioural aspects of sports generally aren’t often discussed from an inside perspective and I think it’s a positive thing for people to put some context around wanting to get involved and what it really takes to
I remember my 2nd December on the NS in 1995. I was 15. Donnie Solomon was going to drown in 4 days from what I'm going to touch on(RIP Donnie). I had a 7'10" and was watching the bay barely breaking by bay standards. It was 12-15' real scale. I was a very strong swimmer/paddler and just wanted to go watch from the channel. I was in the corner and I guess the guard had seen me thinking about it. As I got up to run in between sets he yelled on his megaphone "dont even think about it with that board especially!" haha i was so embarrassed i tucked tail and split from the Bay. Sunset was better that afternoon anyways. I was born at Kapiolani Children's Hospital but am no way a Hawaiian lol.
I'm not a surfer, but do love all your videos and have always enjoyed watching those on the big North Shore waves. I was on Oahu a couple weeks ago and had time to get up to the North Shore for an afternoon and walk on Pipe and Waimea beaches. Flat as it was, now I can imagine the winter waves. I think this video transcends surfing and pertains to life in general. Just respect each other and each others cultures. 🤙
As a beginner surfer, I’m gonna be going out there in the regular so it was nice to find something that’s easy to understand, thankfully I’m friends with some locals in North Shore who I’ll be surfing with and showing me the ropes. And yes I’ve already taken lessons but I’m gonna take a couple more - mahalo!
I’m glad you have the proper definition of what snaking is. People use snaking synonymously with burning/dropping in and they aren’t the same thing at all.
So cool and so classic. Thanks. I lived at Backyards from 1978-1982 right on the beach next to Rawson and worked at the KuiLima hotel. Get off at 12 at night and go party with JOB's dad Mick before JOB was born, then surf Backyards all the time with Shucka. It was 4-6" in the morning one day and the swell was building all day. By the afternoon it was triple overhead. You explained everything really well. A wave at Sunset tripple overhead is the largest wave ever for me. I'm 71 and in my mind I can still rip. Lol. I never surfed pipe because it's so knarly the ground shaked when it got big. Tell Mick Spider says "HI". Thanks Koa.
This video was awesome! Although I'm 72, and injuries have forced me to retire from this great love, you spoke much of everything I lived by, during my 50 yr career surfing. 80% being in shape will eliminate many of these things said! Respect is also very important. and respect in the neighborhoods you are passing through. I am from Belmar NJ, and my name in the water was Wolf. I guess because I howled when big sets approached. But like really, enjoy yourself and the other people in the water with you. If your in better shape you should be able to get all the waves you want. And I did a lot of traveling in the winter season's. Be healthy, help the other guy, love your family, ENJOY YOURSELF
Eventually when I get there one day. I will be just fine safely watching you guys do your thing from the beach while enjoying it with my nice meal from the Sunrise Shack! Lol but thank you sir!
Great Video Koa and the only orher 3 things i can think of is 1 Sunscreen and 2 maybe some kind of first aid kit if you get scratched up on the reef. 3 DONT GO ALONE! At least have someone on the beach keeping an eye out for you. Love your videos and keep up the great content! P.s. Hows the breadstick sales going? Keep us updated!
I remember the first time surfing Puerto Escondido. Was way too excited to get out there. Took forever to paddle out and then was exhausted when I finally made it. Took awhile to recover and then stayed out waaaaaay too long and got burned to a crisp. And I mean a CRISP! I was layed out for 4 days recovering, barely able to eat anything and only drink water. When I was well enough to go back out, I made sure to take breaks, hydrate and eat properly. Best month of my life…. Oh ya, the DO that I did do was I initially went for a swim/bodysurf to familiarize myself with the current, power of the waves, depth of the water etc etc…I of course steered clear of everyone, but it at least gave me a little insight as to what to expect(still didn’t help with the paddle out though)
Thank you for posting this!!! I notice its hard to get too political with surfing rules nowadays just because of the sheer amount of people taking up surfing as their new hobby. As much as it much sucks, sharing and being patient is the best way for people to have fun. So many countless times I see people taking every wave and not sharing and it really ruins the whole sport. Which brings me to RULE #9 which would be to: Have Fun. If you’re not having fun, then either someones taking all the waves, or its just too crowded.
you guys should put on a yearly event where experienced amatuer surfers from all over the world who have dreamed of surfing pipe but are wary of the crowds / locals etc can get a chance to get a few waves during a timed "heat" could be competition or expression session, but would bring lots of tourist dollars and would honestly probably be a really fun thing to do a webcast for, I'm sure people would watch. Sign up ahead of time, entrance fee, week holding period, 1-2 days of surfing, 4-6 man heats. Call it the Pipe Joe.
We have to teach them.... .Good work Koa. Hopefully it will help with all the major kooking going on here at the inlet in Volusia county 🙏 need to let them know if they see a good surfer watch from a distance if they want to learn not paddle to peak and start flailing
Love this video. I went to North Shore this past January 2023 and followed all of these rules, especially Don't #3 lol. I definitely did NOT surf Pipe. I also did NOT panic when caught inside in a big, proper North swell, rifling Lanis. Heaviest beating of my life but I talked to the locals before paddling out and they assured me washing in at Lanis, even on a raging pure North swell, was better than getting ripped up to Jocko's or down to Himalayas. One rule I didn't follow was equipment. My biggest board is a 6'3" and all of the locals were out on 7'++. I managed to grab one "small" inside 10-foot face and got the f**k out of there. North swell Lanis is no joke. Very humbled by North Shore power -- maybe one day I'll surf it with confidence
@@bw8476 First time yes. Honestly won't go back though for a long time. Was too big for me and I'm a pretty good, experienced surfer. Long points in Mexico 6-8 faces is way more fun than being terrified at giant Sunset or Lanis or anywhere North Shore lol. My friends assure me I got unlucky with giant, Eddie-swell and that's it's more accessible when smaller but meh, not gonna try again for long time haha
I want to add another DON'T DO to your list. If you come to an open beach break and you see someone sitting on a peak, Don't paddle out to them. Find your own peak to surf try to spread out. Nothing says, "I am a total kook and don't know what I am doing," more than when you paddle up to someone else on a beach break somewhere when the whole beach is open. Happens so often beginners want to paddle right up next to someone else and fuck up their session.
This one is tough... often surfers are drawn to the area where others are catching waves, its natural. Same time, you can work a very good 2-3-4 surfer rotation on sets. What I would say though is... if you see a crew of 2-3-4 rotating and catching waves, dont crash their party. Too many is not cool... but its ok to join a solo session surfer, IMO
Often there's a bank at one spot on a beach which is literally the only place anyone can catch a wave. What's the point in paddling off to a spot where no waves are breaking? Say hi to the guy, be respectful and friendly and don't drop in on him, but the waves will come in sets of 4,5 or more, he can't be on every wave.
@@jakelesnake4927 Yeah it's situational. Sometimes there is no second or third option. But for sure if there's other empty banks to be had nearby, go there.
Your old man used to keep the line legit. I used to spend every winter on North Shore back in 80s and 90s it was time of respect and snaking was a beach beatdown really enjoyed my time mostly a backdoor surfer
I surfed for 7 years in the 90's on the south east coast of Australia and this brought back memories of all the subtle etiquettes and nuances in the water which I'd almost forgotten about. I remember there was always this awkward grey area when you weren't a local at a new spot and you never really knew if you should speak up or stand up for yourself when the locals were snaking you. It's a very interesting primitive dynamic that takes place.
Dude, you should always stand up for yourself if you get snaked. Localism is not an excuse to break the rules or bully people. If you are in position its your wave; those are the rules no matter where you live or how often you surf somewhere. I mean who decides who is and isn't a local anyway? I have lived in my area, surfing the same breaks, since 2017. Am I a local? Sometimes I get treated like a local, other times not. To some crew, if they didn't go to school with you they don't now you. But that never changes the way I surf, whether I know people or not. They don't own these waves. I live here, I own a house here, I'm going to raise my kids here. Who the fuck are they anyway? When you get down to it, localism is some small minded, ignorant bullshit.
@@timblizzard4226 All good points. It really does mimic politics. Like do First Nations people deserve priority based solely by way of them being there first or is life an even playing field and the true owners are the occupants who can win in a fight. Fight meaning dominance physically, mentally or financially or all 3.
@@chrisnewtownnsw I hate to get into politics, but the way I view it is history is filled with dispossessed people and injustice. We are all here now though, you know? My people have been Australians for 150 years, on both my mum and dads side. Obviously that’s nothing on 40,000 years, but this place is all I have known, my father knew, my grandfather new and what his father knew. We are all Australians now, and fundamentally we can’t change the wrongs that were done. The question that really matters to me is what kind of country do we want now? It’s the same with a surfing community. I live here, I surf here, I own a house here, I am part of the community. No, I didn’t grow up here. Am I a local? What counts? How long do you have to live in a place before you are counted? These are kind of pointless questions. The question that matters to me is what kind of a surfing community do we want around here? IMHO, being a cunt to someone just because you don’t know them is just ignorant bullshit. We don’t own the waves, we just have a relationship with specific spots that should be respected, but they aren’t ours. Be nice, give and expect respect, obey the rules and share. It’s really not that hard.
@koa Great video. I’m now in my fifties, not an expert surfer. These tips are universal. I surf San Diego, Sunset Cliffs in the winter. Very territorial, even know I’ve been surfing there for the last 25 years, off and on . Some locals feel they own the break. I sit back and give them space. They still can be big D bags. Even being “nice”.
Great video Koa !! Besides important specific DO`S for surfing, cleaning your TRASH is so so important ! I see people on beautiful island beach spots dipping their smoked cigaretts into the sand..! That is terrible! Please people, respect the Ocean and its precious environment !!
San Clemente, CA surfer of 24 years here. This list made me feel warm and fuzzy in my chest cavity it it so universally true. The only "do" I would modify for SoCal is number four the "wear a leash" part which is completely true except to say there are longboarders who specifically have the skill to not need a leash and a leash interferes with walking the board but if you are one of these dudes you already know your one of these and don't have to ask, otherwise just wear a f#@$ing leash. And the only don't I'd change is number three for obvious applicability. Don't surf Lowers! 😂🤣😅 (same reasons)
This is really helpful information, thanks Koa. I wish I’d heard all this before I started learning to surf in Florida fifty years ago. Your lineup,rules apply anywhere in the world. There’s also,some very good info that can save your life here. Especially panic, it kills. You’re a real,pro Koa, we appreciate your feedback. Thanks Bru!
This was great! Do more of these, maybe switch it up like one do, one don't, one do, etc. Also please explain why pipe is considered the most deathly wave in the world and Teauhupoo isn't?!
For all us intermediate surfers trying to progress - I would greatly appreciate if you could make a video or podcast about the do’s and don’ts of surfing shallow reef breaks/sandbars on head high to overhead days and knowing how to be comfortable falling safely both frontside and backside, similar to how skaters know how to fall safely when testing their limits. Love the channel and the podcast 🤙
I found one of Nate’s older videos that does a good job outlining the advice I was looking for. I’m sure a lot of us could benefit from you revisiting this subject if the opportunity arises though! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6oD5gQqb2S4.htmlsi=wYjXHkuEoV-NQ3b8
All good advice. Can you come down to Waikiki and tell people to wear a leash? I see some of the better surfers go without one and it drives me crazy. It's great that you're confident enough as a swimmer that you feel like you don't need it, but it's not about you. Your board becomes an unguided missile when you wipe out. Consider the safety of others in the lineup.
Really like your videos where you give background. Your (and your crew's) surfing is amazing, but for me, it is the thoughts behind your surfing. As you describe the Do's and Don'ts it brings more depth to the video. Congrats on another good one
Great show! Please do i scientist view of "How Pipeline Works" physics, the reef topography, underwater vies of the 3 reef shelfs to show where the emery hits the reef and then manifest into the best wave in the world! Thanks brother
Serious question, where's the best place to sit at your non-home break when visiting? I'll usually hang out on the shoulder and then move up the point as others catch waves (except for the wave hog who paddles around everyone no matter what), but wonder if that's correct Another serious question: how's the current on north shore when it's 6-10ft Hawaiian versus your trip to the outer banks? Also love videos like this, keep it up brah 🤙🏾
Sit confidently as the widest person and make quite sure they see you doing that, watch and enjoy their waves, when it is your turn, them knowing you waited, it is likely, but not guaranteed they will respect you doing that as you move up the queue. if you are not going to make the wave, don't be surfing that spot. For wave hog paddle, around you, lowlife MF snakes, stare them right in the eye and turn your head and body towards them. As they paddle around you without saying a thing . So you are are metaphorically saying " what the f are you doing" in any language! lol Likely they will not do it again! Good luck.
All of the advice is great. I really appreciate #9 and #10 Do's. I have gone on trips with close friends that took a lot of time, effort, and hard earned $$$$ to put together, and once we score a decent wave at least one friend (usually two) are so frothing that they just turn into these wave hog mutants. I've actually loaned boards to one of them, and he still hogs while he's on my board! Then there is the "Are you going, are you going" in your face tactic. Seriously, why do you think I'm here? Once we pull up to a spot, and there are other guys or girls on the peak, I always tell my hog friends to just relax, give those out at the peak 15-20 minutes before you paddle out, and don't go straight to the peak. Set up your beach gear, drink some water, stretch, shoot the shit, whatever, just don't paddle straight out. They've seen you pull up. They know you are here. Be cool. THEY NEVER LISTEN and then get frustrated with the bad vibe THAT THEY CREATED! I might have to make them watch this video! Finally, trash on the California coast has gotten way out of hand. I've seen people leave old Weber kettles and all the BBQ trash behind on the beach. F-------K! What is wrong with these people? And rangers along my coast aren't allowed to enforce anything. Just suggest. How about I leave that sh-----t on your front porch? I am not exaggerating here, so thanks Koa. Hopefully the message gets out. Great video. Side note: Saw some really ignorant folks ignore the lifeguards at Sandy Beach one day. After three warnings, a very tactful lifeguard, over his bullhorn, in full Hawaiian accent, loud enough for all to hear, told them in no uncertain terms, to find another beach. Woke them up finally.
I surfed a beach in Portugal, didn't face directly towards the usual North Atlantic/USA but more towards the equator/South America. We arrived and sat on the beach and it was pretty much flat 2' maybe? We'd been there what seemed like 25 mins and out of nowhere came a set that was 4' to 6' which wiped everyone out, then it was flat again for the same period of time. I think I looked at a chart the next day and noticed there was a massive low south west of Cape Verde and it must have been the swell pushing up from there and it was literally 2-3000 miles away. Potentially very dangerous on the beach that day for the uninitiated.
What about a "do" or "don't" if you yourself get snaked, dropped in on, etc.? Should you lose your shit, start throwing punches, break their board? Seriously, mistakes get made, or some folks might just think it's their turn and go. It's not uncommon where a guy knows they've screwed up, apologizes, and still the 'victim" cannot control themselves. What's the right way to handle it and is the North Shore any different from anywhere else?
I do want to travel to and surf hawaii. Im experienced in surfing waves in Australia florida california but north shore is something I would never underestimate. I wholly recognize it as hallowed ground. Between the currents and reefs and wave power it will always command my respect.
We need a map with some type of grading system to inform visitors of which breaks are local/pro only and those that are tourist friendly. Like a ski resort trail map with black diamond, blue square, green circle kind of thing. Might keep some out of harms way. 😂
Where I surf there are only beach breaks so the waves are not very consistent. I often paddle out and around people to get to a better spot that they’re not in, there isn’t really a line because the waves are not very consistent so no one really sits and waits in line.
As an old guy surfed the islands about 45 years ago is it still really localized are used to get threatened because I was a howly Surfed in the islands for over 20 years
Of course he said don't surf Pipeline. I knew he was gonna say that. This video kind of makes me want to snake or drop in on him to see if tries to beat me up. 😂
Do’s- only buy boards directly from your local shapers, they know what works for the breaks and you’re supporting local businesses Do’s- Where sunscreen every season, skin cancer is real. Do’s- wear ear plugs in the winter, surfers ear is real and expensive. (Nor Cal) Do’s- Teach the groms by example, surfing is a way of life not a sport. Do’s- go easy on the boogs, they’re fun alternative while recovering from a blownout mcl. Don’ts- don’t surf to impress women, they don’t care. Surf to have fun. Don’ts- ride a soft top, have some self respect. Don’ts- be a poser, if you talk for long enough we know….
@koa how about a Video where you explain opensea surfing to us, like how do you guys get a Boat or a Ski to go far out for some bombs, props to you and ur chanel, This is Livin !
Nice job Koa. Seems like common sense on a lot of these but isn't that what many lack today. Especially driving responsibly. Trust me that could be a don't anywhere in the mainland as well as Hawaii. People, especially youngsters tend to be lead foots in areas where shit goes bad very quickly killing kids and pets a like. Just slow down, chill and enjoy the day!!!!
Lmao I can so relate koa with the warming up I use to crack up too and then I turned 35 and I'm like oh damn yea I have to make myself remember to warm up.
