@@PanTheOrganizer en effet je n’ai pas fait attention. Merci pan pour les explications très bien détaillée. Comme quoi le prélavages est très important. Je trouve quand même bizarre que les prelavage a fort pH n’ont pas été plus efficace que le gsf
This time I will directly order through the links instead of my Amazon account. Things are going good for my detail business. First, I found a chiropractor who designed exercises and stretches before and after detailing a car. At sixty-four years of age, I’m not groaning exiting my bed the next morning. Two, I’m using my 2013 Subaru Outback with 225,000 miles as a model during weekend rideshare driving. I get a least one client if I’m in the suburban areas (few own cars in Chicago). These cars tend to higher end and I require a very good pre-wash. It looks Bilt Hamber has what I’m looking for. Thanks for the video.
Would be interesting to see it compared to regular car soap, ONR, and an apc like power clean. Lots of people foam with just car soap, onr would be interesting, and powerclean is often used for the same purpose in rinseless and is cheaper per gallon.
That isn't necessary, I can just tell you. ONR doesn't foam, at all. To use an apc as a foam, you need to get a hand pump foaming sprayer so you don't dilute it down beyond being effective through your pressure washer. I would strongly suggest a nonfoaming pump sprayer for your apc so it can be laid down quickly and not having to pull a trigger 300x. You would want to foam your wheel cleaner, as you dont need full strength most of the time. You would be happier without foaming (significantly diluting) your apc to use as a prerinse. However, you can always add an apc to the soap in your foam cannon to make it more aggressive, without buying a separate product. It works with other brands too, not just koch chemie, but kcx actually suggests this method and gives you directions on the bottle on how much to use. Furthermore, you really should avoid those cheap, harsh degreasers on your car's finish, unless you're degreasing an engine block. The Family Dollar stores have an even stronger and cheaper degreaser they sell, the name slips my mind. But get yourself a quality apc (not a super strong degreaser) that is meant for use on the exterior of vehicles. It won't be the cheapest available, but will work better and safer.
@@scottmattern482 I think you're concentrating too much on the foaming part. I'm more interested in the dirt breakdown effects. I'm asking for a more generalized "prespray" comparison -- snow foam is just one type of prespray. I know ONR doesn't foam, but it does emulsify and break down dirt, so it could be a contender. I mentioned powerclean because it's suitable for exterior use (aside from glass) and can be diluted and foamed. Powerclean is a quality apc and not cheap or harsh.
As soon as I saw the title and then the BH products I knew Jon put you up to this :) Glad to see his results duplicated by someone in different conditions. I'm a big fan of removing as much dirt in the pre-wash stage as possible.
I just wished he'd uses different products and made his own video because we've seen John do it there was no need to do it again, it really proved nothing more than a commercial for BH products IMHO.
Really Paul? Leave it to the internet to always find a way to complain about things. I used Gsf and Lift in this test, which Jon didn't use. And again, it was to show this to my viewers, which don't necessarily follow Jon, so I thought it was important to share this info with my audience and also show the results in different climates and conditions. And given from the popularity of the video and the positive comments so far, this video is a success. It's all about sharing knowledge and information from different sources and having fun testing things. It's a thing of passion. I wish you would appreciate the efforts that go into producing these videos. It's super hard work to produce and edit content. Also, when other creators use my videos as an inspiration to reproduce something for their audiences, I'm honoured and take it as a sign that I'm doing something right instead of being mad about it. It's normal that great creators inspire other great creators. As long as credit is given where credit is due (as I gave Jon credit in this video), it's all fine by me.
Hey Pan. I was an avid AngelWax snow foam fan. I switched to Koch Gfs and my experience is that it’s not aggressive on the sealant base I lay on my car. I also get good slickness when I do my contact wash. I have come to realize that there is no one way to wash and clean your car. Sometimes you have to change the method and sometimes the products you use. Till the next one.
It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
Respect to you for giving Jon credit for this video. I watched his video and it was very useful but I do appreciate seeing your review with snow foam products available in Canada.
I used to work for a company that made commercial and industrial cleaning products. Everything we made that was designed to be used in a foaming device didn't work very well without one. So I too would love to see a comparison where these products are used when foamed, though they should only work better than they did this way, lol Also, just to clarify, you wouldn't want to use an alkaline snow foam on any kind of traditionally waxed surface, is that correct?
These are meant to be foamed, so that's how they should be tested. One of the purposes of the foam is to allow the product to work longer. So the results could be different.
Unlss you were intending to reapply the wax, I'd say you're correct? Obviously, it depends on the alkalinity of the foam, but most alkaline products will remove most pure waxes, especially if you're also going to be shampooing. Products like Turtlewax Ceramic and Graphene Wax, Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax, and Fusso Coat will survive a few washes with alkalines, especially the Fusso Coat! Basically, any ceramic infused waxes are my preferred option for waxing my own car if I'm going to be washing every week.
Correct. Repeated use of high pH snow foams or shampoos on regular waxes or sealants will degrade and eventually strip them off. Ceramic coatings have a much higher chemical resistance so no worries there.
It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
I have been working long enough with these snow foams and snow foams in general to tell you that the results would be the same as far as which one cleans best. But you are also free to go ahead and do your own tests at home, on your vehicle and see for yourself by using products you want. Like I used to do before even starting my own channel. No need to wait for a RU-vidr to do the tests. ;)
It's obvious on camera the 1st Bilt Hammer touchless was the clear winner. I'd be nice to see this test repeated with the products foamed up on different panels, maybe next time.
Bilt hamber did a excellent job. Currently I'm useing carpro lift. Will be switching to BH when done. I don't mind paying when u get top notch results. Thanks pan! 🏆👊 🇨🇦
I still pre rinse because i feel the water from the pre rinse allows the foam to penetrate the grime and dirt etc easier, it's helping to begin the emulsification process.. I have honestly tried both on my daily driver and haven't found any real difference between grime and dirt removal but I'd rather pre rinse first to remove the loose stuff rather than have more gunk floating around in the foam potentially getting trapped in the moulding or somewhere it could come out later during the washing process... Remember the car John did was just dusty or sandy not "winter" dirty .. You do what you feel is right don't let these guys influence you because there's is no right or wrong way...
You will soon find out next Saturday on my channel. ;) (But yes if your car is heavily caked in mud or heavy dirt, please pre-rinse first. Common sense is crucial here).
@@PanTheOrganizerPan, somewhere I read/viewed that water alone in the pre-rinse from the pressure would actually push the grit, having it scratch! And, as you’ve demoed here, the soap, alone, in fact DOES lift the loose grime. Best, it was said, to foam and, then, pre-rinse; then doing a regular foam, again, before the contact washing. There, it was up to the quality of the mitts (curved, as one pushes) to slop the foam and dirt ahead…. So, a big, sloppy, really soaked mitt mattered. It all made sense to me! GREAT, great video. Thank you! Linda
Pan! Wowowowow! Where are my sunglasses? Hands down, the BH on the left. It just shone underneath. Never heard of it, but now I’m a BELIEVER! I was gonna go with the GSF or Adams’ MegaFoam, purely because of what I’d learned about reducing the dreaded spotting. Not anymore…. Thanks SO, so, so, so very, very much. Linda (Now, (for those of us not having outdoor spigot water softeners:) I’m curious if there’s a safe bucket additive to possibly soften the water and frothy-up the bubbly soap to, perhaps, help reduce water spots, too?)
All this time I’m watching and commenting on your videos. I’m just realizing I’m not subscribed to your channel. That has been remedied. Liked and subscribed.
First and foremost Pan, again, what transpire the most from your videos is your honesty. This is so appreciated. You have all my respect my dear fellow Montrealer! ;) Regarding snow foams, yes I originally saw Jon's test and it was revealing to say the least. I never used Bilt Hamber products as they seem to be more popular and easily sourced on the other side of the pond, but I use CarPro Lift in winter in a 5:1 ratio, followed by my favorite car shampoo ever the classic blue one from Adam's and this is for me the most effective wash stage for winter that I found. In the summer I use Mega Foam as a pre wash stage and also the classic blue or Reset in the contact wash stage and it's just the most satisfying for my preference. To me, honestly, even if the pre-wash stage did nothing I would still do it because it brings joy to my heart. I just happen to absolutely love blanketing my cars with incredibly thick foam and great smell, it's just part of my regimen and as stupid as it might sound I would do it even if it did nothing. There's just that therapeutic part for me detailing my cars, even if I don't have a magnificent 992 Turbo S which to be honest has been for a couple of years my dream car in Gentian Blue. Anyway, thank you again for your superb work and your incredible honesty and transparency Pan. This absolutely deserves the highest respect.
Big fan of the Forensic Detailing channel and great content as usual Pan. I’ve been using GSF and Green Star for a while now and they truly are a great combo. The lubrication and cleaning ability are excellent. I lay down the prewash on a dry vehicle, do a thorough rinse, foam again, then proceed with the contact wash. Next ones I want to try are Lift and NV Snow+.
Thanks for Green Star/GSF combo. Pan dialed me onto GSF a few months ago. After watching this video and seeing your comment, I’ll try the combo. Thanks!
@@keithlutz7000 I find it useful in the winter months to spike my snow foam with Boost from Ammo NYC as it really fights off a lot of the winter villains and helps protect against them over the course of Winter as well. It may sound strange but if you're in a pinch and fighting road salt way hard on a particular vehicle, you can add a bit of Resolve carpet cleaner to your foam cannon with the soap. It's designed to deal with pet urine odors, which exist because uric acid converts to salts and then they're harder to break down. Anyway the resolve (or whatever urine salt attacking option you choose)attacks road salt and other salts and really helps with a wash in the Winter.
Nice. It would be interesting to see if there is a difference if its foamed vs not foamed (like u used). Also it would be interesting to see if a snowfoam cleans better befor or after a pre rinse. Aaanywho awsome video as usual.
@@DKMFan85 no, reason why to put it on by foam is that foam stay on paint and don’t dry as fast (and of course it looks better :)) alsa these higher PH product you can use straight from sprayer and have same outcome
@@Booczech7 The popping bubbles also add some slight agitation to break down dirt and pull away from the paint. I hardly ever spray foam my own car though. I can zip around it in 20 minutes with something like ONR and then use a SiO2 or graphene detail spray as a drying aid and maintenance for my coating. Only need to do a full clean maybe twice per year. People tend to overthink a coated car sometimes.
@@DKMFan85 i tried that, foam vs spray, no visible difference. (Cold weather, possible to sit on paint about 2 minutes) Of course you can use ONR if you like it but it is not perfect as many people try to believe, I would not do it on car with great or near perfect paint, it just not safest method, period… ONR is better for most people (who are not able to do proper technique water wash) if you dont want to pre wash and use qood quality wash mit and shampoo then yes ONR is better because you need just bucket one bottle of product and sponge. Thats how it is I test it, I really want to ONR to succeed because it looks great on paper but in real it is not safest method and I want that for my near pefect paint and treat my costumers cars. :)
It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
There is a video done by Autocarehq where she makes a convincing argument that using a pump sprayer instead of a foam cannon might make more sense in products such as reset and auto foam, which are not known for their foam as much as their ability to clean. She postulates that the pump sprayer will require less of the product and do just a good a job at actually cleaning the exterior of the car as a foam cannon. I think I’ll give it a try, but I thought that maybe the great Pan the Organizer might just want to try it, as well. Happy Easter.
Yes using a manual pump sprayer/foamer will allow you to have a better control over dilution ratios, that's a given. Common sense. But using a foam cannon is much more efficient and quick. So it's a question of what you really want. But both work super well.
Jon got me to buy the Bilt-Hamber Touchless and Auto-foam and I maintained my old car this past winter with it. I applied it using my IK Foam Pro 12 w/ mini air compressor "hack" and it literally MELTED the salt, dirt and muck off of the car, leaving only the slightest film which I easily removed with a RW👍👍 Thank you Jon and Pan for bringing this to masses and btw its available in the U.S. through The Clean Garage👈
Another great comparison video, Pan! Just curious if the higher Ph level from these soaps would strip polymer based top coats like P&S Bead Maker or ceramic based top coats significantly faster. (Not actual multiple years ceramic coating)
Finally a video that answers my question. I have a Canam X3 side by side and I was curious I’d detergents make much of a difference compared to just straight pressure washing. Thanks for the info.
Thanks Kevin. How did you discover my channel by the way? Welcome to my channel. You discovered one of the biggest car detailing channels on RU-vid as we surpassed 965,000 subscribers and we have over 130 million views! I have been detailing for 26 years and I love to share my knowledge and passion with my viewers. You found the right channel to help you learn everything about detailing.
@@PanTheOrganizer I think I typed a search asking if foam cannons really work? I was curious if detergents are worth the extra money to clean a SXS. Some companies advertise touch less and make it look awesome in the videos but is what they show a reality. Actual touch is the only success I’ve ever had but that’s challenging when cleaning the surfaces of a side by side
From my perspective on my iPad, I would have to say Bilt Hamber products worked the best. Until today, I never heard of this brand before, and because I live in pretty much the same environment as you in Montreal, I will seriously consider buying this pre wash foam cannon product. Thanks again Pan. Great job, great video as well. Cheers from Ottawa. 🇨🇦👏
Bilt Hamber Touch-Less (for winter) and Auto-Foam (all the other three seasons) are the two best snow foams I have tested as far as cleaning capabilities are concerned. You still need to follow with a contact wash, but the amount of dirt and grime they remove in the pre-wash is amazing. More videos to come with those in the near future.
Definitely looking forward to your pre rinse video. I generally use a Marolex sprayer with some ONR before the initial rinse so I can expedite the cleaning process. I sure wish KCX had 1L bottles of SFN and AF because a comparison of those two with the addition GSF would probably bring spectacular results too!
Welcome to my channel. You discovered one of the biggest car detailing channels on RU-vid as we surpassed 1 million subscribers and we have over 135 million views! I have been detailing for 27 years and I love to share my knowledge and passion with my viewers. You found the right channel to help you learn everything about detailing.
Awesome scientific analysis. I stopped using snow foams after Ivan La Croixs perspective on using them. I’m convinced now that they truly work! Interesting how different detailers opinions can be. However science is convincing proof. Thanks Pan!
Same here. I think his claim that a pressure washer would do the same thing a snow foam would is clearly proven false here. I'll still be rinseless washing, but the snow foam definitely has its use for heavily soiled vehicles
@@batvon39 ,It appears Ivan La Croixmakes grandiose assertions regarding "rinseless washes, however, anyone who does them soon realizes that it's incomparable to using a pressure washer or the 2 bucket method. Even Matt from Obsessed Garage points this out in several of his analytic videos. I am so please that Pan has finally debunked this misconception.
@@rivakhoffman4825 I got skeptical when I watched a video of Ivan doing a rinseless wash, and when asked if he's not scratching the paint, the response was "the paint is going to get scratched regardless" lol
Next one please include a Popular & Basic OG product like Maguire's Gold Glass or Adam's in addition to the control. This would illustrate WHY it is more beneficial to use one of these fancy cleaners over a basic one. ...Unless of course the basic ones equally perform.
A quality analysis of snow foams with a great range of products! As I have noted before - your scientific method is excellent :) I am not familiar with Bilt Hamber, but I will do some research. I like the CarPro product for coated vehicles as you mention in the video :) I use the snow foam all over the vehicle - fender wells, tires, wheels, etc. Anything that precleans well is welcome in my garage!
The good thing of BH products are their cleaner series all have rust inhibitor. Try the auto wash bh for the hand washing, so economical, potent and has rust inhibitor.
Pan I purchased the Bilt Hamber auto foam. I came back from a 1000-mile motorcycle trip here in the USA and needed to wash all those miles of bugs off my bike. I tried the auto foam and foamed the entire bike, especially the rims as you know how dirty they get with all the brake and road dust. I let it dwell for 5 min and then rinsed it off. I was amazed at how clean the wheels and rims were and this was without even hand washing them. I actually did NOT have to wash the rims but of course, did wash the rest of the bike. Did an amazing job. My foam cannon is the MTM PF22. I had done the panel ratio bucket test on 1000ml and it came out a little under 500 ml of product. almost 50% of water to product. I'm wondering if this sounds right or is a 50/50 ratio seems high to you? When I was finished I had 500ml of water/product left in my foam cannon. So obviously I do not need a 1000 ml in my cannon. I'm wondering if I had to much product or was I pretty much in the ball park? Thanks Pan keep up the AWESOME work you do....
I've been told never to use alkaline snow foam on ceramic coatings but you say PH neutral is more of a lubricant for contact washes so I'm confused what I should actually clean my ceramic coated car with?
i was specting the spray bottles to BE use um the teste. And i get curious to see...how ir wiil show result um the dark.... which Will Shine the most because of the Lost dirt. good job PAN.
We will definitely be waiting for that video of the "2 different schools" of thoughts for pre-rinse or not before snow foam! I wonder if it's the same procedure whether the car is slightly dirty like few weeks or super dirty like few months of no washing. I would imagine if a car hasn't been washed for 5 months or so (I couldn't because of super busy schedules) a power rinse with water would definitely be helpful before snow foaming. At least that's what I did and hydrophobic tendencies are back.
The seemingly more and more apparent conclusion is that Water in and of itself does nothing at all for cleaning, at least compared to good surfactants, encapsulation agents, and a good ole higher(alkaline) or lower(acidic) pH cleaner. The only thing I can honestly think of for a traditional pre-wash is the pressure would help with cars where there's lots of dirt that can be separated from the rest, but even then you're watering down the surface already for your snow foam and then pushing around a bunch of dirt under high pressure. I like to use something like ONR in a sprayer to pre-treat any areas with lots and lots of dirt and then let my foam do it's job to clean as much of the rest of it as it can before I ever get a chance to move dry dirt around.
@@muchachogrande2019 yes. that is my thinking too. thank you for that. I wonder though if being watered down surface matters if you have ceramic coating. and if ONR and APCs have a "fading" effect on the ceramic coating in the long run with multiple washes. but all in all, I'm on same boat with you
Interesting test. I suspect the cleaning properties would be enhanced by applying with a snow foam cannon and pressure washer. Even H20 will remove some of the dirt when applied with pressure.
They would work better because of the bubbles applying new cleaner ti the surface. No way to get water to foam though and he did rinse it with the pressure washer.
Correct! It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
Here in Sweden we usually use a petroleum based degreaser during the winter which removes salt and stains from tar and asphalt. Many people apply the petroleum based degreaser first from the door handles and down and then spray snow foam over the whole care. Wait 5-10 minutes depending on the temperature and then rinse the whole car.
I like using the Koch Chemie GSF since I am always going to do a contact wash afterwards. The closer I can keep all my chemicals to 7 on the scale the better. I will consider the CarPro Snow Foam if ever doing a snow foam without a post contact wash.
GsF is my go to. I add 3 Oz of Green Star to the foam cannon for that extra bite. Not a fan of Bilt Hamber . Their snow foams are watery. I like a thick foam
The Bilt Hamber snow foams were designed to be more runny, and less "foamy". It's on purpose. They do have more cleaning power as shown here. Foam doesn't equal more cleaning power... It's just nice visually. But certainly not the only criteria for selecting a good snow foam.
It would be interesting to see a test on foam- soak-wash against a traditional 2 bucket. The goal is less swirls. There is theory but how much of a difference.
For shouting out Jon (another of my favs like you Pan) then I will buy from your affiliated links next weekend. Need to work out a shopping list first!!
Hi Pan, doesn't this do a lot of damage to unpainted plastics, glass coatings and trim because of the very high pH? From working at a dealership, trim often gets badly stained due to extremely low or high pH as far as I am aware.
I'm guessing you're talking about the black side window plastic trims and black tape door frames including mirrors etc.. I've only seen these stained if the product isn't diluted correctly or its applied to warm or hot cars .. When i worked at our local Holden dealer we only had that problem once when the yard rat decided to used a spray bottle filled with full strength car wash diluted with interior trim cleaner to spray on a dirty car to loosen the dirt. Pre wash foam won't hurt your car if you're using it correctly.
@@paulreichelt1259 thnx for your reply. I am still not completely convinced. I have loads of this kind of staining and in most cases due to, what i think, too strong chemicals in car washes.
If used appropriately, there are no worries to be had. Use in the shade, on cool surfaces at the recommended dilutions. These are meant to be used as pre-washes on the entire vehicle, meaning it's ok to use on all surfaces: paint, wheels, glass, tires, plastics, etc. As long as you don't spray in direct sunlight, and don't let them dry on the surface (especially for the higher pH snow foams). And no they won't harm ceramic coatings, as coatings have a much higher chemical resistance compared to regular waxes/sealants. And you don't need to use the higher pH snow foams for every weekly wash. Once very other month or in the spring (after winter) to remove road salts, traffic film and road grime that mask the coating's performance and characteristics. For regular washes, a pH neutral snow foam is more than enough.
Thanks! How did you discover my channel? I made many videos on how to start a detailing business including a recent one here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WV3FJcWf77I.html
Hello Pan, I have just switched to the Bilt Hamber Auto Foam and wow, what a great product. Like Jon, I live in the UK, but I live in the Peak District. So they were still chucking salt around in April. I have Soft 99 Fusso on my cars and I hit it with the Auto Foam and the dirt slid off with the protection standing up.👍 D
I use BH Autofoam. it's excellent. snowfoam makes the contact wash so easy and quick. it's uncanny how clean my mitt is. I also use it in a Pump Sprayer and works great. may try the Touchless next time.
Oh yes! A Bilt Hamber special! 💪Touch-less is my absolute favourite snowfoam- it actually works unlike 90% out there. That thin layer of crust left is whats almost statically charged dirt particles left over and comes off with the lightest amount of pressure from your noodle sponnge or mitt, the Sugar based (no harsh chemicals it uses a newer way to clean) cleaning power breaks down the molecules that bind the dirt together leaving a very clean surface to contact wash with- this vastly reducing paint swirls. I think a decent prewash is the best way to prevent damage to paint. I recommend this product with Touch-on shampoo makes the touch-less system work very well. If you used an air blower to dry there would be no need to contact the paintwork at all. The odd occasions you might want to use Bilt Hamber's PH neutral shampoo to get some ultra fine residue off. I use this system all the time and my neighbour comments on my 15 year old cars paintwork and how its like a brand new vehicle. I gave him a sachet of Touch-on shampoo to try....😉 buy the way, since its debut on here the price of Touch-less has gone up! So let's keep this product to ourselves....
@ericfranke1637 nah, it's a refined sugar based cleaner, it's certainly not sugary 🤣, everyone would have the same problem if it was sugar on the paint, also it would be a sticky mess. It's not actual sugar 🤣
@@79blustone nah, the other agents in the formula would prevent that if that's the case or they would never let the product out the door. At any rate my point is bees are attracted to my fruity/sweet scented car washes so I want to avoid issues with that.
It seems that the hammer foam was the only one that cleaned without leaving a film behind so I would lean towards that one. It would provide a better perspective if we actually saw what the foam does when applied in a foam state. Nice work Pan, Thanks
It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
You mean pre-rinsing with an APC? I wouldn't recommend that for each regular wash. Only when needed, example before doing a full decon wash to apply a new coating, or working on a super dirty customer vehicle that needs old grime and traffic film removed, etc. But yes APC pre-rinsing does work.
Great video, I'm curious if actually foaming them would make more or less of a result. Nonetheless very good to know they help out removing films and dirt and it isn't completely pointless! Thanks, Pan!
It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
@@PanTheOrganizer thank you for the information! maybe foaming them with the hand spray foamers wouldn't be too bad of a idea if you do it again in the future with other foams 🤔
Interesting. Like others, it would have been interesting to see a 2nd door have the same prewashes applied with a hand foamer to see if it changed the results. Your voice kept changing back and forth in the video. Did you do some voice-over in editing?
I use Bilt Hamber Touchless before every wash......on a dry car so the dry film/dirt absorbs the cleaning chemicals properly and it does a fantastic job, washing after feels pointless. Great product although its more of a wet slushy foam than other products.
It would be very hard to control this test by foaming it on. Anyhow, when foamed it would perform even better, as the bubbles created increase the contact surface and when they burst you're having more surfactants do some scrubbing work for you.
I get your point but adding foaming to this test would simply add confound. Always better to minimize the number of variables. But a good follow up test would be something like BH Touchless foamed vs unfoamed. Or GSF foamed vs unfoamed.
@@akiralee1192 I foam with regular car soap and I see a difference. It softens the dirt better than a fast pre rinse because it sticks to the paint longer
Pan unrelated question but I don’t see any video’s about air tools do you use them? Tools like blow out guns with chemical Container or with out. What one is better? With plastic tip or new metal tip with bearings.. Guns like the Tornador is this a tool we should have? Maybe this could be a video for you if you have not done one.
Id love to know this as well. Or if it is NOT recommended to use a hight (alkali) PH number on waxed or ceramic coatings like a car prepared with Meguiars Spray Hybrid Wax
If used often, yes high alkaline pH (or acid pH) products will eventually break down older waxes and paint sealants, as those don't have the same great chemical resistance that coatings have.
It's hard to get a specific color when it's time to film a video. I can't always get what I want unfortunately. But the color certainly has no impact on the performance of the snow foams. The results would have been identical.
I'm curious if this test can also be applied to waterless washes. I'm a fan of waterless washes, as I tend to use them once a week between more detailed maintenance washes (I live under a flight path for a big airport and a private airport). Can you run a test using different waterless washes? As they all do state that they encapsulate dirt for a safer washing experience.
Always amazing videos. What I've been doing for the last few weeks is in one of my foam cannons I shoot krud kutter let it sit for 2 minutes hit it with the power washer. Take my other Cannon with Superior Products dirt buster let the foam sit on for three or four minutes rinse off with power washer then my two bucket method rinse off now I hit it with Superior Products formula 4 drying agent. Towel dry then spray wax or quick detailer.
Thanks Pam for this comparison video. I also follow Jon and that video sold me on giving the new BH Touchless a try. Got it a couple of weeks ago but haven't tried it yet due to weather not cooperating
pH neutral snow foams are perfect for weekly and regular washes. Once in a while, especially after winter or when you see the hydrophobics diminish, that's when you would pull out these deeper cleaning snow foams like CarPro Lift and Bilt Hamber.
Too long to explain by text, but there are a bunch of tutorials on how to calculate the PIR for your specific foam cannon and pressure washer setup. Here's the method I used: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fZ_dyRofcHg.html
I think you should really do this test on a unprotected car. This would point to people who just want have a clean car and no further. I haven’t washed my car in 30k miles and I have bought auto foam specially to see how well it will do. I’ll be doing a rinse and foam and a foam on the other side. There is currently no protection what so ever. Great video and very informative
Hi Ryan. As this is a detailing channel and most of my viewers have a ceramic coating, this test was most appropriate. Most of my viewers are detailing enthusiasts and would never have unprotected paint or not wssh their car for 30K miles. But perhaps an idea for a future video. 👍🏻
Hey Pan, love your channel and have learned a lot. Thanks for all the thorough videos! I've recently seen some videos that test the theory of not doing a water pre rinse before snow foaming claiming the water pre rinse diminishes the performance of the foam. Maybe you could do a video on this theory proving or disproving it?
Thanks for the video, Pan ! You said that we can add the Green Star to GSF. What the dilution ratio should be for the car from your video? P. S. Happy Easter to you and for the family! Greetings from Warsaw/Poland
You really should have done the same thing on the back door with several different car soaps. Appreciate you took another approach from how Jon did it but comparing to only water wasn't thorough enough. Thanks again.
Perhaps you'll start your own channel and runs some tests. Instead of complaining about how thorough or not a test is in YOUR opinion. I find that quite disrespectful given all the time and effort that goes into making these videos. Leave it to the internet to always have someone complaining about things instead of being grateful...
I’m actually quite surprised. I always thought it was just marketing. I foam… but it’s mainly cause it looks and feels neat. Good to know it’s helping . Thanks for the video
Won’t do much with heavy dirt build up on the paint unless you do a contact wash, but it’s always worth it for every wash considering how much lubrication it provides with a thick foam. Once you start using it you will never go back
Is it true that using a neutral PH foam (for your normal washes) extends the life of your ceramic/graphene coating vs using a higher PH regularly? That’s why I picked GSF over some of the others.
Correct. Using high pH snow foams too often can start to weaken the protection. You would use a higher pH foam or shampoo when you feel the hydrophobics are starting to weaken, or to remove road grim and accumulated traffic film once every other month like in the spring. Watch my video on a full spring deep cleaning here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oTaFE_p2OAw.html
Love this video! I travel a lot of gravel and dirt roads, what would be your recomendation for dirt /mud? Would you go with Auto-Foam mixed a little heavier? Thanks for the videos, love them.
For dirt and mud, you always have to pre-rinse first, with a pressure washer or garden hose. Snow foams won't be able to cut through too much of dirt and mud. Once that's done, then you can blanket the vehicle with the snow foam.
I definitely would pre rinse with a power washer. I was looking for something that would help cut the underlying or residual film that was left. When you talked about the Auto-Foam being high alkalinity, I thought that might definitely help cut through that film. Thanks for the reply!
I clearly gave him full credit near the beginning of the video Martin. I guess you weren't listening. I always give credit where credit is due by the way. I even put his picture on screen. Here's the timestamp where I give him credit: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8j5dJUM8Fb4.html It would have been nice for you to get your facts straight before writing your comment. Not many RU-vidrs give credit in the detailing world, in case you haven't noticed. Jon and I are friends and I think he's a great person.
Jon didn't foam the products neither. And there's a reason for that. It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
Thanks John! It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
Could you lay down strips of foam with the Marolex Foamer and do this test again. Feel like a snow foam needs to foam to really give an indication of cleaning power.
It would have been near impossible to do this test while foaming each snow foam on the same panel, as you would get overspray from one snow foam to the next. Also, if the products were foamed on, they would actually have performed even better, so the conclusions would be the same, just amplified further. When foaming, the bubbles cover more surface area, and when the bubbles burst, they also create light mechanical agitation and that also applies a fresh new cleaner on the surface, which further increases the cleaning ability. Also, when foamed, the snow foams cling longer on the paint and keep the paint “wetter” and lubricated for longer, giving more time to the surfactants and other parts of the chemistry to do their job.
Hi, great channel with lots of helpful information, Another step to the experiment was worth adding, just cleaning with water and a clean cloth. Pretty sure in terms of cleanliness would have done the same effect. Without unnecessary materials
An idea for the next round of tests, the GSF, vs CarPro Reset and other leading ph neutral soaps AND a pre-treat with Rinseless washes like ONR and N-914. I believe the runseless wash pre treatment does a great job.
Hi pan I use bilt hamber auto foam. But when the car is really dirty I start with bilt Hamber surfex hd at a low mix and spray the foam straight after then rinse both off.
I love that you give credit where it is due! Good job! Also great video! I really think this is the one thing that Americans do wrong. P.S. I'm American. Lol
