Have you found even when using one that certain times it does not get colour’s correctly, or certain one? Was photographing wet felting pieces. Certain pieces of wool were red instead of brown.
Yes, sometimes readings can be a bit off - not sure if this is because of a bad picture/lightning etc. - but still it',s beter than no calibration at all. Many times I need to adjust the Blue Color - especially on my Nikon optics @@LukeOrwin
I've used my Colour Checker Passport when photographing custom cars both indoors and outdoors. Sometimes a subtle difference, somtimes more noticable. Owners spend lot of time and effort on their cars so colours in any photos are important.
Great application. Also useful for photographing businesses when the photo contains the business logo. Again, just as in your case, the color is very important.
I have used a Colorchecker but did not know that there was an update on the software. Having a click for use inside Lightroom is huge. I have been using it old style. Big thanks mate.
If you are doing commercial photography, perfect colour is necessary. Your clients expect it. For general photography, good to great colour is up to you. Grey cards and colour checkers work great, but it's up to the photographer to use them properly.
Unless you are in forensics, people don't care about precise colors (and neither you will achieve that). People care about colors they find appealing, and different people have very different sensitivity and preferences. I'm very sensitive to greens in landscapes, most people don't. Because of that Canon raw files mightily annoy me. I hate most of the presets people advertise, sell, or show, they strike me as looking ugly, but amazingly people like them.
An interesting exercise to do: Make a color profile using the Xrite passport. Then, in the same setting w. same light, etc, make a profile using Spyder Checkr. Basically same process. …and be surprised when you find out the two profiles gives you noticeably different colors and saturation when you switch between them. “100% correct colors”. Just not “correct” in the sense you think :)
This has got me thinking. Isn’t the Xrite giving you a profile for your camera sensor and the Spyder is giving you a profile for your computer monitor? @glyndewis any thoughts/knowledge for us on this.
@@julesselmes Spyder, just like Xrite, offers tools for both :) They have an equivalent to Xrite's Color Checker which is called Datacolor Spyder Checkr. Similarly, Xrite also makes monitor calibation hardware, eg. their i1Display Pro or ColorChecker Display Pro.
I've been experimenting with x-rite profiles many times, they are mostly useless. You can create profiles for the same illuminant for two different cameras and then see the same scene looks different in color and tonality from those two raw files. But when you change the illuminant, the scene, and when you have out of gamut colors, the results are totally unpredictable.
Been using one for years. Other photographers laugh at me for buying into the hype. I know how much time it saves on every edit. when I got into drones, it made a huge difference to my photos, especially with the blue haze caused by water vapour on humid days.
Thank you! As always, excellent tutorial. If I want to also use it to read the numbers to be sure I have the correct exposure, where can I find the numbers to match them.
Thanks for doing these shorter explanatory videos. Purchased and installed CCC software yesterday and got it to work fine with camera Profiles in Camera Raw, Ps and LrC. No easy installing Profiles for iPhone and Nikon cameras into Lr, and still trying to work it out. Calibrite don't highlight the shortcoming at the moment with the system and Lr (desktop).
I've had a CC Passport for many years, but I don't use it. Back when I tested it, it gave a big jump in contrast and saturation. Hopefully, that's fixed.
Ive used this for product photography as that’s what I do for a living. The one thing I’ve noticed is if I have products that are very red, the color checker profile renders the reds WAY over saturated and towards the magenta/purple side. Like bad. I have to either use “adobe color” profile or use adobe dng profile software and use the color checker in there. Does a better job when something is really red.
Heya. Thanks for a great video! Ive used the color checker in my studio work for many years, and especially when doing reproduction photography. Now I'm investing in a large format printer as I see this as the next step towards my reproduction clients. I saw your other video on calibrating screen for print (Thank you) and I wanted to ask you a technical question; Im trying to wrap my head around something. - So, if make points on my curve layer (on the image of the color checker after the corrected color profile is addded) representing the six white to black patches and then shifting their values according to the sheet X-rite provides for the RGB values of each patch - Would this curve when applied to my reproduction-image make the light to dark proportions match the original artwork when the print comes out (given I calibrate my printer with a spectrometer and use the right .icc profile for my paper and so on.) - i.e Black patch is RGB 52 52 52, white; 243 243 242 on the color checker Thanks, best,
Do you have to create a profile, rename and restart every time you change shooting conditions or can you just apply on the fly for every shooting lot by just selecting the checker photo as a reference? Shame there's no focusing target in the Duo, I asked them if they'd consider a standalone focus card that we could buy and slip inside or stick on the back and they said they sent my suggestion to the development team.
I bought the Passport Photo 2. The layout is different and it kept failing then I sussed I couldn't photograph the colour swatches and the large grey together. Now I have sussed it it works every time
When I go into the export with preset menu, the colour checker camera calibration option doesn't come up. Do you know why this is? Thanks in advance.
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I don't have this thing, but a much simpler one: the old, trusty 18% grey card, which is pretty good, simple (and cheap), IMHO. Anyway, you may face very difficult light color scenarios when shooting indoors under different kinds of light.
Hi Glyn, I love your video, great !!!, I was going to ask you after you have created the profile, I did not get what you did with the wight balance, could you show that in more details. I love this video, it has help me a lot.
I have one....one of the original ones. But I'm still getting over saturated skin tones. I've used their own program and the Adobe DNG Profile Editor..and i always have to tweek it... I must be doing something wrong Pentax K1 on Camera Portrait calibration, shooting RAW
I use the color checker, but. . . . (I do outdoor family photography) When I boost the exposure, bring down the highlights, boost the shadows, adjust the white/point, bring up the contrast, now my colors are Bleeding through way too strong. So I have to pull down the Saturation by 10, boost the Vib by 20, and now my skin tones are way off. Despite my using a color checker, I can't seem to get decent skin tones AFTER the basic editing. So now I have to play with the Temperature slider and hue, and it takes forever to get something warm but not jaundiced. Is there a way to use the color checker to adjust skin tones after the editing? I know it has the range of greys from cloudy to sunny, but those are only in the one image. There must be an easier way.
using the colour checker chart is a bit of a rabbit hole thing. it might give you more real colours for product shots and portraits .. but very often , better accuracy doesn't mean more pleasing .. I very often get yellows , greens and blues too strong when using color checker so revert to a Cobalt profile that are more colour "stable "..
@@borisharold Cobalt profiles are made with the same ColorChecker chart, just a different software for creating profiles. X-rite is probably the worst software you can find.
Excellent, thanks for sharing mate. Looks like a simple but very worthwhile process. Is it possible to carry out this process within Lightroom CC? 🤔
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Thanks this was a realy good tips. I guess I have to do this for every shoot, do to different lighting senarios and different settings. Can you make another video where you show this more in action? :)
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I see that I have the "single" CC. Do I just use the gray side?
I am looking at this as a when to help correct certain colors I cant get dialed in while shooting, Purples with blue hues and light pinks that look almost white, oranges that look florescent and I don't always have time to do color corrections.
Glyn, great presentation of what appears to be a very useful tool. Question, overtime we are going to have many "custom" profiles, can the so called "old" ones be deleted after a shoot? Regards, John
Yes you can delete the old ones. But, at the cost that they will no longer be available to the raw files that you have already used the profile for. Those images will no longer be color corrected to the profile. What most of us do who use the CCP is to prepare profiles for general usage. For instance, I have profiles for noon sun, after noon sun, morning sun, tungsten, studio flash and shade. Additionally I have what is known as a Dual Illuminant profile set up in LR as an import profile. It is a general profile (Instructions are easy to find and process is easy too) that covers the waterfront for non-critical work where very close is good enough. Once these profiles are in place I only create profiles for individual shoots when color accuracy is very important. BTW, the Color Checker software has a profile browser that makes it easy to find and delete the old profiles.
Hi thanks for sharing. I using datacolor Spyder X Pro monitor calibration device. Wondering should I stick to same brand and use Spyder Checkr Photo or I'm ok to use this colour checker passport from Calibrate?
Great video... Question, do the photos need to be in .dng or raw format? also if I only use jpegs only... can I still use this fantastic software? Will they appear on the Profile/Browse sections? thank you
I do have a colour checker passport. How is the best way to use it with Landscape photography at Sunrise 🌄 with the Golden Hour. Would the colour profile remove the Lighting conditions I am trying to capture
Great video! Quick question. Any advice on using this in a venue like an ice rink such for speed skating where we do not have access to the ice and with variable amount of light depending on where the skaters are? I always have a hard time figuring out the proper WB. Thanks in advance!
So do you have to have the passport close to the subject as well? Because for wildlife for example, that seems like impossible to use 😅 I don't think something like a tiger will be patiently waiting as you drop off the item and then come back to remove it 😂
I have the colorchecker classic mini. Is there a certain download that I need to use? I can't seem to find anything other then for the passport, colorchecker 24 patch targets and colorchecker digital
Bought one of these about 3 years ago but never used it. Will the software download above work with it? (it has two pages of colour patches and one page with grey) :)
In my experience, in order for Lightroom ‘synchronize settings’ to work correctly across multiple images, all the original images need to be shot with the exact same color white balance settings in the camera. I found it doesn’t work as precise if you use ‘auto color’ white balance camera settings when shooting the original photos. When using ‘auto color’ there can be a slight drift in color in the different original images even if shot under the same lighting conditions.
Thanks Glyn for the video. I was going to save it along with previous videos of yours but noticed that the "save" option is not available. Is there a reason for this? Thanks again!
If you choose another profile yeah you will lose the colour correction. Only way around it is to maybe export a copy to Photoshop then save it so it comes back into Lightroom and then apply the other preset. This won’t affect the first as doing the photoshop route will lock it in.
I’ve had the CC passport in the past but learning of and now calibrating my monitor with a Spyder calibrator will the Xrite CC passport work with it? Also with a monitor calibrated as well as a CC profile created the images will look good on your monitor as well as printing but if you send it to a client or person the coloring may be off because their monitor is not calibrated….just a thought and perhaps you may have an answer, your videos by the way are always amazing!👍🏼
If you send a picture to someone else then send it in sRGB … that’s a ‘safe’ colour space. Also yes the Calibrite (no longer XRite) colour checker will work … the colours are a calibrated standard.
@@glyndewis Thank you sir for your reply I appreciate it. Your videos and channel are the best and look forward to seeing your new posts, thank you!!👍🏼
Hi Glynn, thanks for the video. I fancy buying one of these. I presume if you don't do any video work you can always buy the cheaper version which is sufficient for still images?
As it happens, there is no such thing as "perfect color", because human beings don't remember color accurately and experience it subjectively. You can try to create accurate color up to a point using color managed workflow, as you have been trying to demonstrate, but its only an approximation. The camera color science will differ based on brand and model of the camera. RAW interpreted color via color science and demosaicing of the raw processor will differ from brand to brand. Your monitor might be calibrated, but people seeing your pictures online may not have calibrated displays or simply use a display that make sure they experience the color differently. If you print, it will depend on the paper and ink and lighting combination how the colors are seen. And digital device that emits light vs paper that reflects light will always be somewhat different. Hence there is no such thing as "perfect color", there is only eye pleasing color we can try to achieve, and do our best to use color managed workflows to preserve from device to device. But once its in the wild and online, its out of our hands how others experience the colors. P.S. Even if you could get accurate color in a picture, who says it would be perfect for the picture. You don't always want accurate colors, you want compelling colors unless you are shooting pantone color swatches or something for product photography. Otherwise, its about emotions not math. Color swatches have their place and can be useful if not critical for certain types of workflows, but photographers and videographers should as well know the limitations of them and where they do more harm than good. Anyway , just my 2 cents. Thanks for the video.
@@banditalley9592 Well, WB is usually quite easy, you can simply find something that should be neutral or close to neutral and use WB eye dropper to get same as with gray card. Or you can use gray card as you suggested that is less expensive and easier to carry/use/protect. Color swatches or color cards, are more for when the specific colors are needed to match or are color critical, like in product photography for example. In video they can sometimes be useful for matching cameras from different brands, but that has many pros and cons as well and many limitations. Personally I bought one of these from Datacolor Spyder Cheker 24, not to expensive £50 approximately. But I found limited use for it, since to match cameras from different angles you need to also light the darn thing the same way and using something like using a Color Chart to match your Shots in Davinci Resolve for video, has proven to be less fast and good compared to AI matching colors from differnt cameras. Something we will see more in the future. Where color checkers can be important is for example if you have a situation where you need to take a photograph or video of some work of art for museum and you want colors of the painting or sculpture to be as accurate as possible. But for people photography/videography or any kind of creative work where color is more about storytelling and emotions, these tools only get in a way. At least in my experience.
I mentioned at the end why you would need it ... not saying you have to just saying if a client requires accuarate colours then this is what you would use. Got friends in ther movie industry that swear by them so yeah I think they know the limitations.
Please stop “popping your p’s” on the microphone. It’s hard on the ears when wearing earbuds. Try speaking to the side of the microphone instead of into it.
