Do this to plywood- STRONGER and BETTER looking! 

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Aging [75] Canadian man here. Interesting! Love the cIamps! I discovered an edge banding trick in 1963 while constructing a furniture piece in high school woodworking class. I started with a part sheet of expensive 3/4" oak veneer plywood. I had adjusted the design dimensions of my little side-table with drawer to ensure that I'd have enough scraps of plywood that I could glue the veneer side of the scraps to the plywood edges that would otherwise be visible in the final table. Before final assembly, I did your 1/8" wider trick to rip edge veneer strips with lots of excess to be removed later. Planing & sanding the glued-on upside-down veneer was tricky because the veneer layer was very thin, but patience is a virtue. My instructor gave me top marks for the final result. That was also my first time using classical stain & filler & 'modern' polyurethane varnish to finish the wood. I still have that little table beside my recliner in my living room. Sixty years ago! How time flies!

I do this with a large flush trim bit in my router table. Works great and the bearing on the bit makes it easy to set up. I have never had any problem with this set up.

I especially appreciate that great tip for a simple and reliable way to get a threaded insert into wood *straight*!! Thanks.

So nice to see a craftsman who knows what he’s about… and who is able to explain not just the how, but also the why.

If the fence plywood is curved, seems to me you want the conVEX side towards the metal saw fence so the two clamps pull it straight. If you put the conCAVE side towards the saw fence you’d want the clamps in the center to straighten the bow.

I have built a lot of utility shelves gluing solid wood to plywood and other sheet goods. One can make the wood a bit taller to prevent objects from falling off the shelves and significantly stiffen by going an inch or more below the plywood. All it takes a dado and rounding over the corners.

So good I watched it a 2nd time as a refresher. Thanks for putting this together in the humble, well-paced straight to the point presentation style that keeps me coming back (sometimes twice for the same video). Thanks James for your commitment to making us better makers.

Thanks Stumpy Nubs. At 6:20 you said to put the "CONCAVE" side of the jig against the fence. I believe you meant the "CONVEX" side, so that when you tighten both ends, the plywood jig will straighten.

I like that you don’t frown on cheaper solid wood alternatives like plywood. You’re not elitist and it keeps your channel accessible and open to folks with less resources. Thank you!

Bookshelves requires tons of strength and the best video I saw to strengthen the shelf is to route or table saw a dado 1/8" thick on 2 pieces of plywood and glue them together with a strip of mild steel in the grove. You get a super strong shelf but it looks 100% wood.

The threaded insert tip trick is awesome! thanks for sharing

It can be done with a a hand plane too. Thank you for the idea of making plywood stronger.

I work as a cabinet maker and for every job with shelves we use ply for shelves with a 10mm thick lipping then just belt sand it flush. Easy and fast

I made my own bandy clamps using 1 inch spring clamps and a bicycle tube. Comes out to a little over a dollar each.

Brother, each time i watch a video-its one step closer to woodworking perfection. Thank you.

6:27 Seems like putting the _convex_ side against the fence would give a better chance of pulling the ends to make it flat.

When applying glue to plywood edge apply once, wait and apply again to allow the wood to absorb the moisture. Gives a better bond.

If I’m in the field using this method a lot of times I’ll glue the solid wood edge then use the 23 gauge nailer and stagger the pins at slightly different angles, but most of the time clamps are king 👑

I've started making Taylor Tools my first (virtual) stop when looking for shop stuff. I like the idea of helping support a US, family-run business. Disclaimer: Taylor Tools has no idea I even exist - other than being a customer.

Using the table saw jig to flush trim edging is a great idea, particularly when there's lots of edging to do, as in making an armoire or bookcase. However, in my opinion, the feather board should always be used. My favorite method of flush trimming edging, particularly for smaller jobs, is to use a 1/2 " flat faced router bit, of the type that would be used to mortise a hinge. The router itself (a small, 1/4" trim router works well) should be mounted on an accessory base so that the face of the router bit cuts only the trim piece. The accessory base of the router rides on the face of the plywood that is being edged. However, whatever power tool is used (table saw or router), the goal should NOT be to cut the trim flush with plywood. Instead, the edge trimming material should be left very slightly proud, about 1/64 of an inch, so it can then be trimmed perfectly flush with a card scraper and sanded smooth for an almost invisible seam.

Excellent tips, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Love that Harvey saw. Wonderful product placement.

Cool idea Stumpy! And relatively easy too. Thank you. 😊😊😊

Excellent! I like to edge plywood, but usually employ Heath-Robinson methods (e.g., wedging with clothes peg halves) when glueing up. Those edge banding clamps are genius.

Thanks for sharing James. Great ideas for using hardwood facing on cabinet shelves, used that years ago and no sagging on any of the shelves. Thanks for the sharing of the jig for sawing the facing and sides too. Stay safe and keep up the good work and videos. Fred.

A lot of comments are about using a flush trim bit in a router. That is a completely different method and would be a completely different video. THIS video is about how to use a jig on the Table saw, NOT a router table. I use a Radial arm saw for my woodworking so THAT would Not only be a different video, THAT would be a totally different channel. Great video stumpy.

I built an adjustable router jig for for trimming thick edge band. Setting the router on it's side and using a flush trim bit I can quickly run a board on it's flat. The bearing along with push downs I made from skate board wheels on the in feed and out feed keeps any slightly bowed board completely flat. Like your table saw jig, there is a space between the feed table and the fence for under extending banding to pass. Unlike your table saw jig, I can pass very long and large panels.

Great tips for making an easy and successful edge from natural wood! I have used similar techniques, with great success. I also cut end grain to glue to the ends of the plywood, to make it look more like a real board. Plywood surface veneer itself will not look like a real board (unless you do some artistic things with brushes, different stains and paints). But those ends pop with end grain banding!

I agree with you approach of thicker edge banding. I dont like that jig. Seems like a lot could go wrong. I like to use a router with a large bit - i think it is called a bowl carving bit. I put the router in a plywood jig to go over the board and set the bit depth to just be flush with the base of the jig. The curved edge of the bit prevents tearout and gouging. It works great

Another great video. A very interesting jig.

I do this basically the same way except I like to glue a much thicker piece to the edge that I can clamp with pipe clamps. Once it’s dry I cut it down to the thickness I want. But when it comes to cutting off the excess banding I change out my saw blade to a very thin skill saw blade so that I don’t waste so much wood. I love this method.

I have used a fence attachment that i screw to the side of my fence. But the flush trimming technique is identical. It's fast and super easy and great for a variety of panel sizes I actually use 1/4" strips that are if the species that my plywood is made from or the veneer attached to the Baltic birch plywood panel. What i use for strips are pieces that are ripped from an unplaned plank, jointing the edge, bandsawing a strip, jointing, band sawing, and so on until I have sufficient 1/4" strips. These are then put through a thickness planer to smooth both sides. What is left is a slightly wider strip, unfinished on each edge. I have a fixture that accounts for 1/2 the extra width of the banding and slippage is constrained. Once the glue is dried, trimming the rough, unplaned edge gets rid of all the sawmill marks, leaving a very nice edge band. Love the video, very practical and useful.

Excellent video

Thanks, Stumpy. I just finished four cabinets that will require shelves. The shelves will be edge banded using the techniques and fixtures that you presented here. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂 PS, I'll be ordering the band clamps too.👌👌

Thanks again for your ideas. I always learn something to make my shop time more productive. Julien.

Thank you for sharing a better way for edge banding. Can't wait to try it. Thank you!

This info was perfect for me. Thanks buying the clamps today. Making the jig soon.

I find that sprinkling a tiny bit of sand onto the glue after I lay it down really decreased the amount of creep when I clamp the wood down. The sand grains act like tiny claws digging into both surfaces of the wood, locking them together.

Poplar and Maple might not work in the real world, but on video, it was a great way to emphasize your point by showing a distinction between the two boards.

Waiting for the glue to set up a bit will help with slipping. Cool clamps though. Folding one edge of the tape helps with removal so that's probably the best way to go if you're already catching flak from the missus about spending more money on the hobby that was supposed to save money by building your own furnishings 😅😅

Of course Tay Tools makes good edge clamps. I have yet to have a problem with anything I've purchased from them.

This looks like a job that a router with a flush trim bit would do with a lot less setting up. The more wood you need to cut, the better the table saw option becomes though, as once it's set up it should allow much higher feed rates.

As always great tips showing different ways to do things for different people. Love Taylor Tools.have been buying things from them since I started watching your videos a couple years ago thanks for sharing as always. When are you going to do another episode of Cool tool ?

I'd put the convex face of the plywood against the fence, because the clamps toward the ends of the jig will pull those ends back and flatten the entire jig against the fence. If you have the convex face against the fence, you risk having some of the the bow remain in the jig with the ends clamped.

Sold out. Stumpy effect

Great idea, great jig. Very practical alternative to router table. Thanks a bunch!

I think Taylor Woodworks products would be very popular in Australia

I like also making a router pattern on the edge...either a sawtooth or just t&g . Doubles the glue surface and forces alignment. 1.5 - 3x stronger too.jpk

I love Taylor Tools. I just put another order in yesterday.

Thanks for information

I'm surprised to find no mention of the Collins Plywood Prep Router Bit, it can definitely make taping a solid wood edge (in conjunction with a biscuit ever 6 - 8") a viable and quite professional option. I wouldn't do this type of glue-up without one. Seems it would be FANTASTIC with the rubber band clamps used here.

Thanks for sharing..never miss your videos..no BS, easy to understand and apply to my projects and always works as explained..found these clamps and plan on acquiring..thanks again!

Using a table saw to flush trim gives me ideas for other projects but for this, I think I would prefer to plane it out for a smoother edge. Thanks for the idea/ concept.

This is a great tip. The last set of these I did I used maple for the thicker edge banding as I wanted support for the plywood shelves. And, I do shop at Taylor tools, another good tip. I didn't have the jig, I need to make one of those. Good stuff as always.

I'm a beginner. Your scrap wood is my good wood 😂

This is wild. I really dig that jig. 😊

A new twist to the L-Fence. I like it!

The Woodpecker has an interesting technique where he uses a triangular piece for edge banding. That means you have to route a corresponding triangle on your ply edge but you can get the appearance of a thin band while having the rigidity of a thicker one.

Or sandwich one thick enough strip between two boards, then cut on the center of the strip.

Some great tips, thanks. You must have an enormous storage area somewhere for all your specialist tools and jigs.

BigBox carries screen molding, 1/4x3/4, pine, oak, poplar, just proud enough of nominal ply thickness to insure full coverage of the edge. The molding is rounded on the two exposed sides, and easily sanded flush with the plywood without burning off the beauty ply. In some cases, leaving the edge banding a bit proud on the upper surface of a shelf can provide a stop to prevent things from rolling off the shelf.

a man of your ability and beautiful expensive planes just do it by hand

Thank you.

That's a great idea !. Thank you

This could also be done with an L fence. Great idea as usual.

Good video, thanks for making it!

What a great jig it’s a brilliant idea. And I have started buying from Taylor Toolworks his prices are great and shipping to Oz isn’t that bad.

Edge banding veneer is impossible to get where I am. I use fascia board which is slightly thicker than the ply wood I'm using. I rip it lengthwise into strips about 15mm wide and apply it to the edge. I can trim the overhang off with a trim router and if I want to get fancy two passes with a half round bit gives a nice decorative edge.

Aww man, I wish I saw that threaded insert trick before I did my router table. I ended up busting a couple of them because they were so brittle.

I like those clamps! Much faster for some things than wrapping it with a rubber band strip! Jig is cool too! 👍👍

If you put the warped side against the fence and it is the middle that touches first so the ends can pulled flat by the clamps you show, that is the convex side. The motion you made with your hands was concave, but that would mean the clamps would NOT pull it flat. :)

Another great idea. I saw the vid when it came out, and am glad for the review. Gonna use it on a project now in the shop. Also, happy to echo your shout-out to TayTools! I look forward to their emails. Christmas catalog to a kid!

Nice clamps I need to pick some of those up!

I can't remember who I learned it from. But sprinkling a small amount of salt at both ends of the glue joint acts like "traction" and keeps the strip from slipping during clamping.

I love and support Taylor Toolworks!

Cool!

One way to make narrow banding virtually "disappear" is to chamfer the edge. It also has the benefit of protecting that sharp edge from dings.

Great video. 👍 Thank you

I actually find the color contrast of the two different woods quite appealing

At 6:30 you said to place the concave side of the plywood against the fence so it would be pulled flat. I think it would be better if the convex side was there. Paul A

Thanks.

Brilliant!

that's a great idea

I use a similar jig set up on my router table with a flush trim bit. I have an auxiliary fence that sits about 1/2” above the bed. So the lip of the edge banding rides underneath and the veneer is riding against the bearing and the fence. With a feather board it works great. Great advice on the clamps. Tape definitely works but it can quickly become expensive going through a roll of tape on every big cabinet job

Nice

That's the most important tip - don't try and glue on a thin strip - glue on a thicker strip that you can properly clamp and handle and then cut it away. yes, it is a bit wasteful, but if you clamp a strip between two sheets and then saw it in half you get a really nice matching grain effect and it is super easy clamp a strip between two sheets of ply with just a couple of pipe clamps.

Hey Stumpy, I'm a bit late on this one, but I have a few planned projects where I would like to show off the edges of the plywood used to make them as an intentional aesthetic decision! Do you have any tutorial videos, or could you plan on making such a video, for getting the best visual results off of a bare plywood edge finish? I plan to use the good thin-ply maple-veneered stuff that can be found at Lowe's for (hopefully) best results. :)

I just trim the solid edge about a 64th proud of the surface and just sand flush since i always sand all my panels anyways. eventually with a little practice you'll stop burning thru the ply veneer🤣. a router with a flush trim bit is a another option

Definitely making this jig: although I'm not sure why you need to cut the head off the screw inserts.

A shop inspired method for easy edge banding is to purchase glueless wood edge banding. Cut strips 1/4" or more longer than the edge length. Apply wood glue to plywood and band edge and let completely dry. Use a medium hot clothing iron with a narrow long strip of paper between the wood band and the iron and firmly and slowly join the two dried glue surfaces together. The heat melts the PVA adhesive binding the materials. While still hot use a flat strip of wood to firmly run over the wooden edge banding to ensure contact of the materials. When cooled cut off the extra banding and sand the edges. Little or no glue squeeze out and edge will never fail. The hot melt edge banding is almost useless - gummy trying to sand off squeeze out and any heat will cause the bond to melt and fail. The paper will prevent hot metal contact with the edging and not scorch it. Edge banding is available in the same or close color to plywood. The same process works with melamine edging A further trick is to use the hot iron on melamine edging where the contact cement has failed. Again use the paper separator. If old adhesive fails to bond with the heat, use PVA adhesive with masking tape strips until glue joint dries. Happy edging.

Could probably use a flush cut hand saw too, more work but don’t see why it wouldn’t work nearly as well without any additional setup needed

A hand plane would be quicker if you are doing one, a router would be quicker if you are making a few, and this would be quicker if you are knocking out several. I often have trouble deciding which approach to take for things like this.

I love the look of exposed ply if it s good quality i.e no voids

I don't have a table saw but I believe I could do the trimming with a router on a support board / aluminium ruller

Light glue on sides of MDF before Spray finishing paints will cover the MDF quicker then without glue edges because the MDF want to absorb the paint within itself , the glue fixes this problem

Perhaps my suggested process would no longer be called "banding," but I like to cut a rabbet whose depth equals the thickness of the plywood down the length of the stock that is to form the band. This gives gluing surface not just on the edge but also on one surface of the plywood. The result is a thicker-looking shelf (if it's a shelf), which is often desirable, but also makes the piece stiffer, which is nearly always desirable.

This is crazy. Great idea to use a wider band of wood on the edges but why not just trim it with a flush trim router bit?

This looks amazing, but at 4:39 when you pull the panel away from the cut it looks like there's some tearout in the veneer. Is that what happened and a possibility? Would it be enough of a reason to just leave a very small amount and finish with a sander or plane? Thanks again for all of the great tutorials and the heads-up on the band clamp set!

Why not a flush-trim router bit to flush the band to the panel?