I installed a UPR on my 19 3.5 with about 45k miles on it, now has 53k. In those 8k it has caught about 20cc best as I can measure it. I still have a very light film of oil on my MAPs, Intake runners are dry. Truck idles so smooth and accelerates great. My reasoning behind the install was if all of a sudden the can starts catching more oil, there may be something I need to check. The install hasn't improved anything nor has it been detrimental in any way.
I went with a UPR catch can, clean side (driver) separator and one way billet crankcase breather filter. UPR has better thick hoses (Continental) with one way billet valve connected to outgoing hose so that nothing comes back through the hose and back into the catch can.
“Assuming you can find your 10mm socket”😂 Opened my hood yesterday on my ‘09 platinum to check oil and found my 10mm open/ratcheting wrench on top of rad. I have a catch can on my ‘74 cj5, 304 with 60,000 on it and get recover lots of goop that’s not making it’s way back into my nice new engine.
Ive tested 5 different AOS/Catch cans. Design of the can makes a difference in capture efficiency. On yours you can try a stainless steel pad in the can to provide more coalescing material. The best designs have multiple chambers. I install a port on the bottom and added a 1 qt storage tank, with a drain hose, accessible from the wheel well. The gas vapors will damage and swell the o-ring after several drain services.
I have a 2022 F150 2.7 eco boost and I installed the same catch can (3028P) as shown in this video. Fits perfect and not sure why J&L calls out the 3016P for the 2.7 which attaches adjacent to the battery. For F150 owners with a 2.7, buy the 3028P.
Thanks for another very good video. I installed my CC (same model as yours) on my 2022 PB a few months back. I've emptied it twice, so far. Each time I came up with the same 'glop' mix as you show here. Not a lot, perhaps 1/4" - 1/2" worth each time. But, I'm very glad that it didn't end up back in the engine. Thanks, again!
Just did another 5K interval oil change and the CC was about 1/3 filled this time with all kinds of nasties. So thankful that none of it went back into the engine!
First time viewer. Great job on the explanation and visuals, you made it easy for anyone to understand. Keep up the good work. P.S. I had recently installed one on my 2021 Powerboost, as I have run one on my turbo charged 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse. I think it is even more important to have on a turbocharged motor due to increased pressure from the forced air.
Honestly I kinda prefer the driver side mount J&L vs the passenger side mount I have. Cleaner install and out of sight / outta mind... Access isnt too bad either to pull the can.
I've got the 2022 Ford PowerBoost as well. Looks fairly straightforward, but I only keep my cars until they are out of warranty, and then i get something new. Not sure it makes much sense to get this other than it would just give me something fun to do in my garage. I was actually thinking about the K&N Performance Air Intake as a fun project too.
Hi James, if you're only keeping it for 60k then I would skip the oil separator. If that's the extent of your truck's involvement, then I would absolutely do the Livernois tune on your engine. These engines have a huge amount of untapped potential that a tune will bring out. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 thank you!!! I’ve been watching your videos all day. Good thing I own the company and can’t get in trouble for messing around! This is my first truck and Dec 24th will be one year with it. I got the platinum and love love love it. The company bought it so maybe I should just think about keeping it for a long time!
Well, i couldn't help myself. I ordered the one you ordered and some Ford mud flaps. It just looks like a fun project. Love your videos and explanations...@@fixorrepairdiy4609
@@cmdrdarwin3682 I don't have a tune. I don't know how it affects MPG, as most of the guys that get the tune never comment on that aspect, only the increased driveability & power. I think the "warranty" question depends on what problems show up on your truck and how the dealer interprets their rules. Everyone is different.
Thanks for sharing this video with your audience. I also own a Ford F150 Powerboost with the FX4 package but you can't get the rear tow hooks in the FX4 like you get with the Tremor and the Raptor F150s. It would be nice if you could come up with an idea for installing the rear tow hooks in the FX4, cause I want mine to have them, they are very useful but nowhere can you get them.
Some enterprising folks did the same thing with the Raptor belly plate, adapting it to the F-150 (model independent) instead of paying $400+ for a third party cat protector/skid plate. Based on what I'm reading after a quick search, it looks like the entire bumper assembly is different. If you're really serious, that might be your only route. Or you could take the easy route and just put a tow hook into your tow hitch. cheers
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 A few months ago I bought a hitch mounted (9,500 lb. rated load) D-Ring shackle from Harbor Freight but I still haven't used it. In my old 2005 F150 I had a local welding shop weld-on a U-shaped pair of 1" diameter steel rods to the tow hitch and this worked just fine.
An oil separator and a catch can do the same thing but they are not the same. an AOS delivers the removed oil back to the crankcase. The catch can needs to be emptied.
I had one on my 2021 3.5 It collected about 4oz of goo between oil changes. Regardless of what engine you have, why wouldn’t you want to remove it out of the engine!
Thanks again, went ahead with it because your soothing voice prompted me to install one :) Idea for video/remark, if it makes sense, should a second small battery be installed in parallel to the one in the cab on Powerboost F150s? Is it piece of mind to not being able to start due to low 12VDC i.e. due to cameras, etc. loads that remain on while vehicle is not?
Hey Kevin, thanks...and would it surprise you to hear that you have an auxiliary battery under your rear seat which does the exact function that you suggest? :-) cheers
Sorry, I may have not been clear. I meant another 12VDC battery like the one in the cab in parallel to it. A third 12VDC battery. It occurs to me that the tray in the cab (under the back seats) could fit a second (making 3 in total). I have see on forums where others are replacing their OEM with a more capable (more Ah) battery but I was curious if you have contemplated the benefits of adding another in parrallel? @@fixorrepairdiy4609
Well presented and informative video as usual , thankyou. I have an ordered f150 PB coming , needed that unicorn long bed. The J&L catch can doesnt say it will do a 2024. Think it will?
I don't see what would be different in the engine bay to prevent it from working on a 2024 model. I don't think that there have been any material changes from 2021 all the way to 2024 for the PB engine.
Has anyone got a check engine light after install? I did on my 2019. I think the hose collapsed from the vacuum. I reinstalled the original 12 inch hose and cleared the code.
2023 XLT Powerboost here. I bought the same catch can, but I noticed 2 MPG loss also engine does not perform as it should, truck had 4k miles when installed and only driven about 300 miles. Any suggestions on whether it is normal or expected?
Re-install the short hose and bypass the catch can. Repeat the mileage test. I myself have seen zero change in performance or economy with the addition of catch can. If your numbers are truly that far off and the experiment cures the issue, then something with the unit or the installation is wrong.
@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Thank you for your advice. I ran several tests and found out that was due to a Gas station where I refueled. Since I bought the truck, I only went to the same gas station, TEXACO is supposedly TOP TIER, but one day I was far away from that station, so I decided to use a different one, and since that started to act up, and lose 2 MPGs. I thought was due to the catch can because I installed it about 40 minutes before refueling, I am always Using 93 Octane only, but I don't know if TOP TIER Gasoline was on that particular station I hope everything I typed makes sense. I do watch your videos and I have learned a lot from them. Cheers!
I don't think so, although it might depend on the dealer. In any case, it's a ten minute job to remove it should you bring it back to the dealer for a non-related problem.
Should any dealer give you guff about it, it would take 2 minutes to switch back to the stock PCV tube. But these have been around for a long time and should not be a problem. cheers
The engineers do not have the final say, it would if they did. It's the cost per millions of units, and bottom line, made by execs. If you plan to keep long past warranty, it a good investment, along with premium oil, filters, and fuel.
Has Ford denied anyone warranty claiming these things have voided the warranty? Ford is famous for voiding warranty for ANYTHING aftermarket..... even if the "bolt-on" is unrelated to the warranty claim. No..... I do not boost or tune my auto's.
Not aware of anyone being denied a claim based on something passive like this. If you're concerned then the swap back to the straight PCV pipe takes 5 mins.
The F150 Powerboost is a hybrid..it has a 3.5L Twin Turbo Ecoboost engine under the hood and a 44hp Electric Motor in the transmission, which is used for all Electric driving and it also assists the ICE during regular driving.