Do You Need a Detail Airbrush? 

Thanks Thomas!

I completely agree.

I would agree. The problem is likely the compressor and not your airbrush. Some lessons are learned by experience. I've never been a fan of most of the small, inexpensive compressors marketed toward the airbrush user. You're asking a lot from a compressor when using an airbrush for artwork purposes, meaning constant airflow for extended periods of time. The CFM required to operate an airbrush is low; however, you need a compressor that can keep up without getting hot and creating a lot of moisture. Most of those small compressors can't meet the demand. I learned that lesson the hard way too. I burned up several of those small compressors early in my career.

Hey Karl! I couldn't agree more my friend.

Thank you David! I'm glad to be back!

Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

I completely agree!

That, at the end of the day, is exactly what it takes, practice. I've been practicing for thirty years now and I'm still learning new things frequently.

If you reduce paint you have to drop air pressure or you are going to fight spider webbing.

Thanks Josh! A lot, if not most, of us fell into that trap (including myself at one time). The cool thing is, anyone can learn to airbrush and be very good at it. It just takes practice.

Hey Guy! Many of us did my friend!

Hey Darren! I believe this topic is a common misconception for a lot of people (it was for me once too), which is why I chose to address it in a video. Developing solid fundamental control takes time and practice just like pretty much anything else. The cool thing is, anyone can develop that skill if they are willing to practice. There is a difference between a static setting at your air pressure regulator compared to setting pressure while depressing the trigger on the brush. If you noticed in the video, the gauge read a higher pressure until I started using air through the brush. If you set your air pressure statically, you're actually using a lower pressure setting than you think, how much lower depends on your particular setup, but it will be lower. I have another video that covers this topic that may help if that doesn't make sense. You can find that video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a2srgaLfhek.html

@@wickedartstudio good video, confirmed what I thought was happening with my pressure and now I know for sure what to do about it. Thanks.

@@DarrenGerbrandt Awesome! I'm glad you found my videos helpful!

Hey Joe! I agree. My Eclipse airbrushes are my "go to" workhorses.

Thank you!

I absolutely agree! Different airbrushes do behave differently as far as trigger control is concerned. That is true from one manufacturer to another, but it can also be true when comparing one model to another within the same brand. I also use the actual trigger to control air pressure on the fly versus using a MAC valve. MAC valves didn't exist when I started thirty years ago, so I learned to do that instinctively over time. You can put a softer trigger spring in your Iwata to improve that control if you choose to do so.

​@@wickedartstudio I have been trying set the spring in air valve from top to bottom positions, but I hadn't seen different. I also bought the IWATA MAC valve and can use it if I got lazy to pull hand to my air compressor handle

@@onairctc2onairctcru283 Are you talking about setting the air valve spring in a different position on your Iwata? I'm relatively certain there is no adjustment there. The only way to soften the spring is to replace it with a softer spring.

I couldn't agree more! I also agree that paint consistency, as well as finding the right consistency for a particular airbrush and pressure setting, is a big part of the puzzle. Everybody struggles with the same issues from the beginning, especially with water-based paint, because there's not a blanket answer that covers every combination. Others can give you suggestions to get you in the ballpark based on their own experience, but it still requires some experimentation from each individual artist to find what works best for them. Many don't realize how many different factors can influence those settings from one day to the next. I've been doing this for thirty years now, and I still struggle with it sometimes.

Hey Jesus! There's nothing wrong with the H & S brushes my friend! I've owned several of them over the years. I've just always preferred Iwata airbrushes and always revert back to them at some point. It's a very subjective thing. We're all a little bit different and have different preferences. I like my PS771 too! Paint reduction and air pressure have a lot to do with all of this and I've always treated those two parameters as a part of learning the fundamentals. Once an artist has a good grasp on all of that... imagination is really the only limit.

@@wickedartstudio harder n steenbeck was great love the way they are made. Probably the best quality if you ask me. Triple coating. I think the needles had issues. They came out with the new new line of needles and seemed to have fixed the problem. I made it spray fine but still had a lot more issues than with the iwata ch even after using the .4 needle.

@@coolkids2064 I've never had any issues with H & S needles. Their nozzles have always been a problem for me. They seemed brittle and would crack easily based on my experience. It's been several years since I last used one of their brushes. Hopefully, they've fixed that issue.

@@wickedartstudio Trevor one thing I've never looked at. Because I've never had the need to do so since I did not hear, seen any leak coming from there. I did noticed the needles would get a lot of paint stucked. Even after one use.. Perhaps they were not refined or even buffed the right way.. Maybe we both may comeback and re-use them. I did love the way they are made. Seems to me they are made better, like no other. For the time being they just didn't do it for me. Thanks buddy cheers!

Hey John! My detail brushes sit most of the time too. A good detail brush is nice to have when you need one though!

Hey Kim! Yes, when I read your response on the forum, I knew we were on the same page. I also realized you have a better way of translating things into words than I do :). I also agree with your comment as far as controlling detail through lower pressure is concerned; however, it's not totally dependent on pressure in my opinion. Control is definitely easier for most people using a lower air pressure setting, but I would argue it's also easy at higher pressure settings. The trick for me is to simply work a bit faster and that comes with practice just like everything else.

​@@wickedartstudio - I agree, but there are a lot of cases, especially with detail brushes, where the combination of a slick surface, the necessary thin paint to go thru small nozzles, and a slick surface make it a necessity. Doing eyelashes on a bit of unprepped yupo comes to mind... It's not something that you can necessarily do accurately at a speed high enough to avoid spidering with a thin pain. There's definitely a "black art" to it. It comes with practice and understanding the characteristics of your support, and how paint behaves on it. Support considerations would be another whole series on itself too. Hahahah. This is why after decades of airbrushing, I still spend time every week writing out limericks, or jokes in cursive using my airbrush, with as thin and smooth lines as possible, and if I ever have to spray on a new unfamiliar support, I use test patches, pieces, or parts to do the same for a bit, so I know how to "tune" for best results. I prefer higher pressures in the 30 to 40 range and control at the trigger when practical, if nothing else, to help eliminate the dreaded tip dry, or at least severely reduce it. But for some stuff I work on, I am getting my needle up to a mm away from the paper. Working fast that close is a recipe for another needle replacement or re-sharpen in my experience. I am sure someone out there can do it, but I'm a bit of a gorilla. I gotta slow down working on detail if I don't want to trash the place and kill my needle. LOL. So I agree with you. I just think there might be some cases where folk struggling with detail might benefit from learning good pressure control, and proper support selection. I'm thinking about the fella on the forum, that was looking to drop some coin on an unnecessary detail brush for where he was in his progression. I figure that learning a bit about pressure control could save him a few bucks. At least until he was ready for a detail brush. Great work as always mate!

@@amplogik I completely agree! The size of the project is also a factor. It's far easier to spray eyelashes quickly and accurately on a very large portrait compared to a smaller scale. I do tests on different substrates frequently as well. A lot of those tests are on surfaces that I have experience with, but changes in environmental conditions will change how paint behaves too. I also prefer working at higher pressure. I'm normally in the range of 25 to 35 psi. On occasion I will drop the air pressure lower, but that is rare for me personally. Your last paragraph essentially sums up my intended point very well. Artists like you and I have years of experience and understand there is no magic recipe for a given paint reduction and air pressure setting that will work flawlessly on a specific surface. We also have the knowledge and ability to adjust as needed based on that experience. Learning to airbrush can be very frustrating because one also has to learn how all of those other factors play into the equation. It takes time and practice to develop proficiency and that knowledge base. I've seen others become even more frustrated after spending more money on a detail-oriented brush because they believed that would fix a lot of their issues. That's not the outcome in most cases. At the end of the day, most would be better off becoming proficient with the brush they already have before upgrading. I've touched on pressure settings and paint reduction in other videos. That information was a little beyond the scope of what I wanted to cover here, but it is absolutely pertinent. Thanks for sharing your perspective, knowledge and experience with the rest of us my friend!

Thanks Rich! I'm looking forward to the pics of your first pet portrait my friend!

The paint I use is Createx, their Illustration Colors and Wicked Colors brands. And yes, those paints flow through the Eclipse and the Micron Takumi with ease with proper reduction.

Estoy de acuerdo. Es un error común.

Great question Mike! There is no need to pull the trigger back on your airbrush when setting the air pressure on your regulator, unless you're using a single action airbrush. A single action brush releases air and paint at the same time with a single motion (either pressing the trigger down or rocking it back, depending on the particular airbrush). Pulling the trigger back on a dual action airbrush controls the release of paint only. Pressing the trigger down on a dual action airbrush controls the release of air only. Your air pressure setting is not affected whether paint is flowing through the brush or not; however, it is absolutely affected if the air is flowing or not. If you set your pressure setting statically, you're actually using less air pressure than you think (the actual difference will vary depending on your setup). If you noticed, the gauge in the video actually read a higher pressure until I started using air through the brush. When I depressed the trigger on the brush, the pressure regulated itself back down to the 29 or 30 psi setting I had it set at. That happened because I'd previously set the pressure at about 30 psi with air flowing through the brush. So yes, it is a good idea to have air flowing through your airbrush when you set a given pressure at the regulator. Hopefully, all of that makes sense. I have another video that covers this topic as well if I just confused you more. You can find it here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a2srgaLfhek.html

Hey Andrew! That's a good point, but I would still argue the fact that one can still paint small scale with a mid-range airbrush. Having said that, having a detail brush does make it easier and I would definitely prefer to use one most of the time.

@@wickedartstudio I love to see detail work. I'm used to either drawing or burning (Pyrography) fine detail. I'm fighting to gain a nice smooth line or curve with my Airbrush, only had it since Christmas. I usually support my hand against the surface, but this can cause grease patches! It's the hovering above the surface without shaking I'm finding difficult. I'm now practicing with a snag glove that I normally use on my pen and tablet that's used on my PC. I like a challenge lol.

@@PENFOLD1962 A glove is a good solution because it allows your hand to glide over the surface easily while remaining in contact and providing support without transferring oily contaminates from your off hand. I also find using just a finger, typically the tip of my pinkie finger, placed against the painting surface really helps to steady my hands while airbrushing. It also allows me to glide over the surface relatively easily because the tip of one finger doesn't produce as much friction compared to a larger portion of your off hand. I also find it's easier to work with a vertical canvas as opposed to being hunched over a project. Try standing compared to sitting while you are working. You might be surprised at what you find what works best for you!

@@wickedartstudio I'll definitely be giving the fingertip to help my hand stay firm. But I won't be able to stand whilst Airbrushing. I've had both Shoulder's and Hips replaced so standing is a real struggle. I have a few vertical easels, a table top one and one that slides under my chair so the legs don't get in the way. I used to love standing at my large vertical easel I felt more comfortable and more room for my arm's. I don't use my table top easel for that very same easel. I'm hoping that the armchair easel is OK for Airbrushing. Thanks for the advice it's very kind of you, and I really appreciate it 👍😷👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

@@PENFOLD1962 You bet! I appreciate the support and all of the comments my friend!

Thank you!

I'm generally somewhere in the range of 1:1 or 2:1.

I agree, a detail brush does create a smaller cone of air. They are designed for that purpose. Whether that is a limiting factor depends on how the artist uses the tool. Using only a detail brush could be a poor choice on a 24" x 36" canvas for example. Using one on a custom pair of shoes makes a lot more sense. Personally, I've never been a fan of airbrushes with interchangeable needles for a few reasons. Mostly, I prefer to reach for the correct tool for each individual job rather than adjust one tool for multiple situations. In a production setting, time is money. I'm not saying those airbrushes are worthless. They don't work for me, but they do work for a lot of other artists. At the end of the day, we all have to find what works best for ourselves. I would also agree there is probably some degree of markup when it comes to purchasing a well-known and popular brand name product. I'm sure that's true across the board, not just for airbrushes. I also understand being on a strict budget, but there's more than price to look at when one is looking for a new airbrush. It's a very subjective topic. Aesthetics, for example. We're all a little bit different. That includes the size of our hands. What fits and feels right in my hands, may be uncomfortable in the hands of another artist. I've tried a lot of different airbrushes over the last thirty years. I can't say I've tried everything available, but I've tried the vast majority of them. Some I liked a lot and I used them for a while. Some I didn't like at all. I've always reverted back to using my Iwata's at some point. Based on my experience, Iwata means quality, durability and reliability. I use my airbrushes day in and day out, for eight to ten hours a day. Other brands I've tried suffered durability issues when used under those demanding conditions. It is what it is. I've also owned most of my Iwata airbrushes for more than twenty years now, and they still work flawlessly with little maintenance. There is still some truth to the old adage "you get what you pay for" in my opinion. Dividing the cost of a specific airbrush by a lifespan of more than twenty years comes out pretty reasonable in my eyes. Perspective. Creos has been around for about a decade overseas. They've been available in the U.S. for two or three years now and I'm excited about them too. I own a PS770. I really like the brush and would recommend it to anyone. You really can't beat it based on the price, the performance and the features it offers! How long will it last? That remains to be seen, but I have high expectations for it. Thanks for watching and taking the time to share your experiences and knowledge with the rest of us! Very much appreciated!

Yes, I use Createx paint pretty much exclusively. I have a couple of videos covering reduction when using Createx Colors specifically. Thirty percent reduction is actually a little thicker than I normally prefer to reduce my paint, especially with a needle/nozzle size smaller than a .5 mm. I'm normally closer to a 1:1 reduction ratio. Unfortunately, there's not a standard reduction ratio/air pressure setting that will work for any given combination. Others can give you recommendations based on their own experience to get you in the ballpark, but it will still require some experimentation on your end to find the combination that works best for you. Most people don't realize how many different factors can influence how a given combination performs from one day to the next. Fundamental control also plays a role in all of this. Hang in there and keep practicing/trying different combinations until you find what works for you!

@@wickedartstudio I'll be revisiting those videos then. I appreciate the feedback !

I agree.

The Japanese airbrushes have always been superior in terms of quality based on my own experience.

@@wickedartstudio Soooo well designed and great quality.

Hey Shawn! I have to keep practicing too my friend!

I apologize for the disappointment. I was short on time when I created this video. I'll add that to my list of videos I need to produce though. For what it's worth, I'm using the Eclipse HP-CS in the majority of my videos. It really is my workhorse "go to" airbrush.