Do You Want A Lean OR Rich AFR? | Fuel VS Power! 

Thank you

I'm not going to base my 800 hp k24 engine based on your YT comments section afr conversion.

@@DP-nr1hz for engines running gas these conversions are spot on.

What about engines running 10% ethanol?

Alot more entertaining then the dudes accent

Hayden Thompson haha good 1 👍🏻

Dammit, you nailed it!

The exact opposite for a diesel engine though lol

Don't wash out your cylinder walls

Hahahaha that’s AWESOME!

Thanks Matt!

Use the captions there Mateusz, it's what we do ourselves for tricky accents ;) Thanks for the compliment too, glad you enjoyed the video - Taz.

Didnt kno it was him at first

He prerecorded the 2nd part 10 years ago

Lol me too😂

Seconded!

That book is incorrect. This lesson shows why 😉

The tail pipe O2 sensor might not be as accurate as oxygen can work its way back up the exhaust to the sensor (they are not that far away from the exit). That can't happen with it further up. Pre and post CAT is also a consideration. For general interest you can also have your sensors too facr the other way and have the readings skewed by exhaust back pressure. I'll link you to a members webinar lesson that touches on all these topic and more - Taz. www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/121-wideband-lambda-sensors-essential-knowledge/

Hey Peter, no worries. The higher number is leaner, lower is richer and 1.0 is Stoich. Might still seem confusing, but the second lesson here will cover it in more detail for you I believe (and I think you will enjoy the series :) ) - www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons - Taz.

I'll never tell! But the captions will 😉 - Taz.

probably because at high rpm's the engine makes more power and heat. To cool the combustionchamber further the engine runs richer

Until MBT, yes - Taz.

كفووو

That is a function of the dyno, you can choose an RPM point for it to hold and then focus on tuning the different load targets. If you don't have this function, you would do sweeping runs and tune from the data as you do while road tuning - Taz.

@@hpa101 awesome thanks!

That was not considered in this lesson on purpose. It was to show maximum torque/horsepower. When racing circuit racing you will absolutely benefit from leaner ratios (within reason) to maximize fuel strategy. F1 uses it all the time, MotoGP a little bit even though they never run out, and many other levels of racing need to lean it out for pure economy, richen up for passing etc. We know this, but it wasn't in the scope of this particular video.

We're with Matt. This is not a lesson on ecomony 👍

@@hpa101 i understand that, i was just mentioning why some people may say running on the edge of lean is the only way to go. I should have elaborated a bit more but i didnt want to leave a whole essay on the thought of power to weight ratio on fuel. Even in a drag car if someone is trying to optimize power to weight ratio running lean would allow them to carry less fuel for a single run, even though it may be negligible many people get to the point of removing a gram here a gram there to get that extra .001 second.

@@hpa101 i totally agree with what matt says in the video and ive been learning a lot from his videos the past couple months, i was just mentioning there can be some benefits from running lean, you have to carry fuel in the car, but you dont have to carry the oxygen. Unless we are talking nitrous or compressed air.

Switch from your ears to your eyes and the captions if you struggle with our accent. It's what we have to do ourselves for a lot of content on the internet given about 0.3% of it is in the familiar to us Kiwi accent ;) - Taz.

High Performance Academy Haha, great reaction! 👍 I’m sorry I forgot to add a 😉 to my question. I like you accent so much I’m hearing it as I write these lines 😄

​@@Conservator. no worries mate! We do understand the struggles to start with so always make sure good captions are there if needed (not the shitty auto-generated ones either ;) ) so I'm quick to mention them sorry. Pretty much everything I read at work runs through my head in Andre's voice to XD - Taz.

High Performance Academy 😁

Good man! Hoped you enjoyed it too 😎 - Taz.

Anything less than lambda (1) is rich, and anything more is lean. From there it's just a measure of how rich or lean you are, but even 0.99 is rich by definition - Taz.

We have a tricky accent so Andre tries to talk a bit slower to make it easier for everyone to understand. Once you can understand him at 3x speed you're at our office best haha Aside from that, hope you enjoyed the video! - Taz.

Ohhh yeaaaa

I absolutley agree. Brilliant.

Agree 100%.

Haltech made similar video many years ago...

You should try their courses.

And that's why HPA is the best.

LOL?

Back to school with you! (that was 15 minutes) ;-)

@@kathrynck to be fair to Peter he did say "5 minutes of attention"

@@i_am_tinny_man_2267 15 is three times 5 though. 300% markup, or 33% payoff per minute, whichever way you want to look at it. If you thought you were buying gas at $2 a gallon, and then it rang up as $6 a gallon... or only gave you 1/3 of a gallon of gas... :P (I am kidding, before anyone gets too excited and loses sleep plotting their argument).

Exactly, I proved what you said many times on a dyno.

Word to that!

You took the words right out of my mouth...lol...

This is secondary: You are using fuel and cooling effects to make up for lack of octane.

I had exactly the same thought. For instance the old good turbocharged 4g63 makes the best power at lambda 0.75 whilst it knocks earlier with leaner AFR mixture... However, if you are using high octane fuel that allows you to run optimal ignition timing to get to MBT than a slightly leaner AFR can be used.

whats the difference? its the same concept for carb or EFI engines.

Agreed!

It surely rund into another limiter. My car has like 15 HP difference 0.95 to 0.85

The dislikes are from Idiot Honda dudes who think a soot covered bumper means their shit is fast.. Canned Tunes suck.

The thumbs down doesn't necessarily mean that they thought thatbthe video was bad. They may not be interested in this topic. Giving a thumbs up or down affects whether or not they will continue to have this type of video suggested to them.

@@roscosnyder3584 Yeah, it was sarcasm, but its hard to portray in text!

Timing creates whats known as negative work in the chamber, if you advance the timing to far the combustion process starts to soon and actually pushes the piston backwards. So adding more timing to a optimized system can work if the octane of the fuel is high enough to work with it but it's getting into negative results, making the piston change directions before the connecting rod has gone over center. Adding and subtracting fuel causes the ignition pulse to change where it happens, leaner is shorter sharper and faster, richer is like we modern people slower and a bit wasteful and takes longer to get to the point then this sentence. *yes I went there* So your engine and it's chamber design plug layout/placement etc etc etc.. is the basics, adding to much timing screws up the system so only use as much as you need or destroyed bearing uppers and melted pistons can and will be in your future. If you paid attention to the video this had nothing to do with spark timing and was giving basics on how afr works with your engine, asking for spark advance kinda missed the point of this. But since you asked this is your answer, it depends how close the timing is, how much is irrelevant to tuning except as a number and a place on a table and if it makes more power or not, not enough and combustion happens to late after the rod rotates around center and to much makes it happen before the rod is over center both lose power ones inefficient and one breaks parts. The total amount kinda depends.

@@Scootermagoo you mean you don't want the combustion happening as the piston is coming up? Haha

@@scootbmx01 Well if you want your piston to actually stop fully before top dead center sure make it 75 degrees and see what happens. Most modern engines need 15-25 degrees of timing , you for example might need a 350 degrees of timing and a long roasting time, some of us are better off stewed at low temps, and others are good with a quick sear on a hot cylinder head. But as for timing mines off and I need to reset my watch. That should teach you to rewind your betters...

@@Scootermagoo you missed the joke.

@@scootbmx01 So did you >;)

Yes! Another point is with richer lambda you'll be able to run it for extended time and get same results. With leaner lambda it'll get so hot you'll loose power after a short time racing.

Tha'ts not a good comparison.. If a car is factory turbo, you don't need to junk it with fuel... If you game a 2L turbo from a cobalt ss, tuners who know the engine well always target 12.5-12.8 afr on stock turbo and stock engine and will make 330+ hp.. 380tq.. Then with a bigger turbo they will target low 12's .. It's a dI engine so no need to run rich... Even port factory turbo I would target low 12's... Now if it's N/A and high comp factory and you toss a turbo on top, then I would start to tap into the 11's at higher rpm's to keep it cool.

@@PurpleHeartVR That's a no from me. The general concensus for a force induction vehicle is in the 11s and n/a mid to high 12s. Your 12.5-12.8 SPECIFICALLY on a cobalt is NOT a good comparison to anything. I own and tune a DI turbo car... also, there are a lot of direct injection cars out now and majority runs in the 11s with or added FI

@@Anthony-vr3um di's are much for efficient thats why they can be run leaner. It's not uncommon to see a modded, boosted di engine in the mid to high 12's on pump fuel and even e85.

Except when it's made up=Fraud! Of course this is not the case with this presentation.