Dodge & Jeep 4.7L V8 Timing chain replacement 

Bro I’m trying to do this job on my 2011 ram 4.7 I got used, it has 168k now and there’s coolant coming out from either the top of the driver side head or timing cover💀 I got a cheap diesel heater and a hf tent garage for a couple hundred bucks, it’s snowed again last night but busy tearing down the front end while I wait for parts… it’s not pleasant but possible to do this much work in the winter but definitely not exposed!! I’ll try edit or comment in a couple days if i succeed or fail on restart wish me luck lol

I found the problem with that. It is the cheap kits they sale and the size of the chain guide. The guides should have swivel bushings and are thicker than the aftermarket guides. This leads to the slack. Cloyes makes the right one but you have to order the kit for 2007 to 2010. Guaranteed that's your issue. I rebuild mine 3 time before I figured it out.

@@pennywizerr Going to look right now Thanks so much! 🌷🍾 hmmm. 04 or 07-10 chain? Then there's the primary. With these kits, I'm liable to end up with extra parts.

I went to the junkyard with a hammer and a 13 mil short socket to clear the radiator hose snout. Found a couple jeeps with 3.7s smashed the front of the driver side valve cover and grabbed the tensioner arms. Took the old plastic off the arms and slid on the plastic from the new ones that didn't fit. Worked perfectly my 4.7 with 220k runs like a new. Just got it all back together a couple hours ago

@@pennywizerr 07 3.7...I'm going to have to wait till I get to the shop tomorrow & have a look at my old guides. I'm not as familiar with them obviously. Thanks for the tips

So any update? Verification on the tensioner guides sizes?

Frank, were you able to figure this out? I'm doing mine tomorrow, is why I ask. Did you use any of the special tools? Will a paper clip work to reset the tensioners? I don't have those tools besides the spanner, and I'm going to try to do it without them.

@@jeffcunningham79 Hey Jeff, you probably already figured this out, i am a bit late on reply. After installing new heads truck ran for about 10 minutes and lost oil pressure even after installing new heads, oil pump, timing components. Destroyed the new head on left side (camshaft caps broke from overheating and no oil reaching them). I replaced with new one and thought maybe engine was just gunked up.I ran engine cleaner through several cycles then changed oil after repair, ran 20 minutes and held oil pressure so I thought was good, drove it about 10 miles and lost oil pressure again. Only thing I could conclude was either main bearings or connecting rod bearings gone on bottom end. I bought a re manufactured at the end and finishing up install in the next few days. Hope you have better luck on your project!!

I too have had this question, I was rebuilding a 03 Durango that only had the plate on the driver side, I will be doing this same job on my 05 Dakota 4.7 next week and believe it is the same.

​@@frankd2766 I did the same a reman engine is jus the best way to go 👍🏾

The plated links are the darker colored links on the timing chains and they have been moved along from their starting point by advancing the crank.

@@jimmeh213 i thank you sir

If you rotate the engine a few more times will they line up again?

@@bayareaguessthesound3773 eventually with enough revolutions I would think they would line back up but it’s not necessary

Clock wise

Clockwise on the bolt or clockwise from the engine. This lack of specifics is fucking killing me. If I'm standing in front of the engine facing the engine, the fan is rotating counter clockwise which means the engine is rotating counter clockwise so why the f*** do I rotate the bolt clockwise. If I'm Sitting in the driver's seat looking at the engine then the engine is spinning clockwise. So do I continue to turn the bolt counter clockwise?

Check compression. You may have bent valves. I had the P0300 and 1 cylinder and 6 had vent exaust valve from bad timing.

@@castersen13 compression is good (160 all around) didn't needed too but I also did a leak down test(3% or less), plugs good, coils good, new timing chains, tensioners, injectors, catalytics, heads ...etc. Just rebuild the whole danm thing and everything works fine. I moved the No.1 cam ahead 1 tooth and works better. Suspect..timing idler sprocket.

@@MrGongui Well least you figuare it out. I'm rebuilding a Dakota right now from bent valves. I hate that they even use a generic code for multiple misfires. Lesson learned: always do compression check first. I wasted money replacing cam sensor, crank sensor, map Sensor, plugs and coil packs. I heard a pinging and thought it was spark knock from improper gaped plugs. Cam sprocket caused my failure too. I forgot to torque it and the timing lobe for 12 o clock sheared off and it jumped timing.I didnt use the chain markers. Not sure why they are necessary if camshaft and crank shaft are in TDC 1 cylinder? This time Im going to do it right.

@@MrGongui working on Dodge motors made me a mechanic. Lol Good experience.

@@castersen13 it runs good after a 1k rpm. I do feel the missing and the lack of power (about 25 hp less) and gas a bit higher. Can you come up with a solution or just guessing?

Amazon

Can use zip ties

HE PRESSURE WASHED THE ENGINE CLEAN BEFORE HE STARTED WORKING ON IT LOL

@@drjoeset Toshay!👍

er because it was defective.