Dodge Journey 3.6 Oil Cooler/Filter Housing Replacement How-To 

How much oil did you need to get to after you finish your oil change

@@librazking1940you should be doing an oil change after.

Glad I was able to help you out. I really do appreciate the super thanks, small things like that keep this channel going. Thanks again.

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE hey I followed you vid exactly to every detail and had no problems but after a day the code came back what would you do next?

@@VideoGamerzAnonymous what code are you getting?

Thanks for this video. I did change my oil filter housing myself after watching your video but thereafter, my car started misfiring. What do you think has gone wrong?

@@michaeloladele636 I would double check and make sure all the coil packs and fuel injector harness are plugged in all the way. Did you replace and spark plugs while the intake was off? Also did you put on new intake gaskets?

most definitely the best video ive seen on the repair! and i have watched at least 20 LOL blue collar's at least 10 times , mostly for moral support while im doing this $hit

How is the part bro no leaks anymore?

@@bahala-canadian no more leaking, I checked it few days ago and the valley is still dry! Just take your time and don't rush it. Pretty straightforward 👍👍

That’s what I was told my oil filter housing was due to the tire places I take it too they tightened it to tight and now leaking oil ..

Thanks if you have any questions during install don’t hesitate to ask.

oh god, that was my fear the whole time LOL i just broke what i think is a pcv valve on the firewall side and poking out the ass side of the right valve cover hoping it is low pressure and a nice heavy duty heat resistant zip tie will do for the time being.

The Dorman one doesn’t come with the new sensors you’ll have to reuse the old ones. The one I used in this video is the skp model which is made in china but is still holding up good and does come with new sensors. I did another video o n a Chrysler 300 that I installed the Dorman one if you want to check that video out.

It’s the SKP brand and here’s a link to it from Rockauto.com www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,engine,oil+filter+housing,12429

I’d say if I wasn’t recording it would probably be about 2 hours and 15 minutes from start to finish

Yes because the plastic one goes through so many heat and cool cycles the plastic starts to become weak over time. Plus with the plastic ones a lot of these lube shops end up out the oil filter cap on to tight and end up cracking the plastic housing causing leaks. Mopar hasn’t switched to the aluminum because it’s a good money maker for them very common issue on these engines.

What brand of oil filter housing and cooler did you go with? Is it the aluminum one or plastic one again?

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE aluminum housing. oh man i snapped one of the bolts installing it. praise the socket gods i was able to get the broken bolt out very easily. I did read that someone said use the stock bolts, i had forgotten that until i snapped it. I could only use 4 of the stock bolts though due to 1 having that sleeve welded or manufactured directly onto it. the other 4 i whacked off with hammer and a punch. that sounds really odd lol. as i was torquing the new bolts i had an eerie feeling that they felt weird. I tend to break shit , things that shouldn''t break either so i was going really slow and gingerly and before i even got to 90lbs the bolt snapped. hope to finish up this mess tomorrow! again thanks so much for the excellent video it was a big help and for the reply! much appreciated. are you on venmo ? i'd like to send you a tip but i'd rather not use youtube seeing how they steal most of the tips from the creators! if you are let me know , if not in the comments feel free to shoot me an email with the venmo info. thanks brother! gmikekostas@gmail

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE i gotta say chrysler built a nice motore aside from this stupid oil cooler. i can't believe how gunked up the plenum and intake were!! hioly crap it looked like my chimney inside there and the van ran perfectly. we were still getting 20-21mpg . 90k miles . i cleaned both up really good with soft brushed and carb and brake cleaner . maybe we can squeek 22 mpg out of her! 1 thing i noticed , where the f**k is the power steering reservoir on this thing LOL is it electric assist rack only!

I have seen alternators go bad due to oil leaking on them and making them fail early. A lot of Hondas had this problem due to the vetc solenoid being mounted above the alternator and those gaskets were prone to failure soaking the alternator in oil. That could be the issue with yours as well. As far as the aluminum this is the second one I have installed with no issues also put one on my daughters 2016 Chrysler 300 which I did a video on as well. If you plan on keeping the vehicle I would do the aluminum upgrade but if you plan on getting rid of it the plastic one will work just fine.

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I really appreciate you responding back to me. I wrote to a couple other guys with no response. Thank you very much for the help. I'm still learning. Do you think the serpentine belt could be part of the problem? It has a squeak to it.

@@chefkarimassaf268 how many miles is on the belt and tensioner?

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE 139000 Miles

@@chefkarimassaf268 if that’s the original belt and tensioner you may want to consider replacing them but just because it has a little squeak doesn’t mean it’s bad the squeak could also be the tensioner or idler pulley bearing. As long as the alternator is putting out at least 13.5 to 14 bolts then it’s good.

Parts was about $400 and I’d say labor if I wasn’t recording can be done in about 2.5-3 hours. The person I did this for said the dealership wanted about $1400 to do this job.

Not exactly sure but I’d say a couple hours.

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE couple hours lol shop wanted $1650 for this. wtf is their rate ?? yikes!!!

Are they just replacing it with the same plastic housing? Also who does your oil changes? The reason I ask is because most shops or quick lube places will over tighten the oil filter cap thus leading to cracking the housing. The other problem is when they install the new housing if the main oring isnt lubed up enough it can get caught up or pinched leading to a leak. It’s a very poor design by dodge especially where it’s mounted and how much heat and cool cycles it goes through being plastic. That is why I try to update it to the all aluminum housing.

They replaced it with aluminum 4 times already and the resort that i do is to buy the lower o ring set from mopar then tomorrow they will put the aluminum cooler with oem o ring i dont know what happening 😅

Last time before the mechanic replaced the oem parts i didn't see any leaks even drop on floor but they advice me that its leaking and i need to replace so right now i see alot of oil on the floor .now i know its leaking with the new part😅

@@bahala-canadian Have you tried Dorman aluminum product?

Yeah it makes a mess not sure what Chrysler engineers were thinking mounting the housing and cooler in the middle of the engine.

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE ahhh SOB of course i snapped bolt #8 on the last turn . man i was sweating bullets torquing these damn things to 106. im like no way these bolts are gonna survive LOL i should have bought new ones right from the go. FML local chrysler has 8 in stock, now to see if i can drill this f**ker out. you guys make the torquing look effortless and stress free haha! it is the most stressful part for me.

Although this isn’t my vehicle I still keep in touch with the person that owns it and no issues so far still going strong.

How many labor hours was quoted for the oil filter housing/ oil cooler? I wasnt able to find anything on identifix.

@1991NOS honestly, I'm not sure, going off what my sister told me. It only took me 3 hours to do it taking my time. That with also doing the spark plugs

Did you or somebody else do the oil change? Can you tell where it’s leaking from? A lot of times these shops will over tighten the oil filter cap and will crack the filter housing because it’s made out of plastic.

The part cost about $300 I’ve seen shops charge from $800-$1200 to do this job. It only takes 2-3 hours to do this whole job.

So far so good no issues.

Still holding up? I'm curious due to it being so hard to seat. This may be better than the dorman from all the research I'm doing saying that the main o-ring is the wrong size. Even seen people have to go back to the Mopar plastic because the factory orange and felpro wouldn't work on the dorman. Still leaked. Information helps us all.

Total with labor?

yes @@BLUECOLLARGARAGE

1100, to 1200... now. Some fear price is 800

Totally agree with you. It’s sad if you think about it, cars now a days are not made to be rebuilt, one time use and tossed away after 150k

I did replace the plugs at the same time it’s just on a separate video.