Thank you for this video! I was able to find this through Infinity tools when Amazon was out of stock. A bonus was that I was able to get them to work with a budget parallel guide system and now have the confidence to try making some cabinets. Thanks again and have a great day!
I noticed play in the sled on the track. It appears as though that can be tightened up with those side adjusters. One note on these things... Always use the same type of blade with the same kerf on the carbide teeth. Otherwise, your cut will be slightly off if you switch to a blade with a wider kerf.
I recently purchased, prior to viewing this video based of a few things had read. was out of stock for several months. I went with the Kreg version and the saw attachment is plastic, also does not attach very well. This video was great and I look forward to getting the Milescraft into action this weekend!
Great video. I just bought one of these and was wanting to know others opinions about it. From what I saw in this video I beleive I made a good purchase
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to make and upload. Question: how much gap is there between the bottom of the saw base and the top of the stock? Looking at the video, I estimate it's about 1/2 inch? I'm just wondering how much depth-of-cut is lost when the saw is on the track.
Great video, I just used your affiliate link to buy bundled with their drill press. Was going to go with the Wen/Powertec setup but I really think this is going to do the trick 😀
Me too! The Accu -cut is all plastic, doesn’t come with clamps, and from the reviews I’ve read, the biggest problem with it, is the play leading to sloppy, inaccurate cuts! The Milescraft is all aluminum and comes with those track adjustment guides taking all the play out of it! This is definitely going to be my next purchase for my projects!
The thing I noticed - and I don't own one, but have been looking for something like this - is when the tracks go together, the seams just d i s a p p e a r. The only way I could tell - in video - where the seams were was by the non-slip strips and the splinter strip. I've seen several reviews of the expensive to the inexpensive (like this one) and I could always tell where the tracks were joined. I mention this, because that tells me the machining is done well on these kits. One thing not mentioned, and a concern since even their add-on kits are just two more 27.5" tracks, is track flex in the 110" mode. Curious about that.
Any long track has flex but as long as the edge it true that’s all that matter. There isn’t a long track anywhere without flex. This one is extremely well made
Invest in a dust collection port adapter (pretty cheap), a vortex dust separator (HF=$35, + 5 gallon bucket), and some clear acrylic roll material to cover things better like a real track saw. Use magnets and washers for instant on-off. YEAH - IT'S NOT A PIECE OF CRAP MATERIAL WISE, and nice and thin plate - unlike the F'n KREG version. SICK OF THAT thick sled. I had to upgrade my saw to make it through a 2x in one pass.
even thought i dont have this, but its definitely 10x better than kreg accucut! kreg is horrible on laminate sheets and tends to flex halfway on the cut and give you whack cuts. main reason is the sled keeps on flexing and theres no adjustment like a normal track saw, but milescraft have it! that alone gives it better quality cut and consistency plus its made of entirely aluminum! the sled on kreg was cheap plastic and wobbles a lot! never use kreg on high end laminate sheet, but its ok for rough carpentry.
Just a note, the directions from Milescraft say the initial cut to trim off the excess rubber from the edge should have the blade no more then 1/8" below the material being cut. I see he has the blade completely lowered. There are a few other nuggets in the directions not mentioned here either. I realize he's not giving a setup tutorial here he's just showing the product so no dig at him here.
Remember you’re using a normal circular saw which isn’t exactly easy to plunge with. For $99 hours his will suite 90% of everyone’s use. I have the Festool and desalt and I don’t think I’ve ever done a bevel cut on either. Plunge yes but bevel no
I am curious. How the set up would be accurate depending depending on the kerf of the blade you're using. Hypothetically if you set it up with a 60 tpi blade then switched to a 24 tpi blade Wouldn't you lose 1/8 th inch because the difference in the kerf of each blade
With a track saw like this, or any of the type, really, the "keep" part of the piece is under the track, and the waste is exposed, so the only concern with regards to the size of the kerf is how much of the waste is wasted.
Ugh... Won't let me edit... To continue. If one does use a blade with a larger kerf, what may happen is more of the edge guard will be cut off. So, if a blade with a larger kerf is used, make a pass away from the cut line to allow the blade to cut the extra material from the edge guard, then align the track with the new edge. As a rule of thumb, it's a good idea to keep the same type/tooth count blade set aside for track saw use, and keep it sharp.
Hi brother I have question after I watched your video I just bought a milescraft saw guide this is not a long enough to cut the whole long side plywood what you suggest should I order only track extension or should I buy another one because price difference is only $20 whole set is $99 and extension is $79 but if I buy another set of milescraft it will work with the one I have can I make it track longer
Just tried to set mine up for a Makita 6 1/2 cordless circ saw. Probably less than half of the saw base rested on the track saw base. I couldn’t secure the saw baseplate with the two longer side clamps. Just a little info.
