Routine maintenance of an old Ford 3000 farm tractor. ~1967-1969 Check us out on Facebook! / falllineridge Contact: falllineridge@gmail.com Music from www.epidemicsound.com Featured music: Blues this Morning by Johan Hynynen
We have a 1968 FORD 3000 diesel in Greece (was Made in England). Just like yours. Awesome tractor, very reliable. Still works great after any thousands of hours of work. This is due to my late father's painstaking maintenance of the tractor.
I have a 1971 Ford 3000 and it’s served me well since new. Still farming my 77 acres with it. No need for a new tractor. Ford Farming for sure. Enjoyed your video. Sure like to see people service and maintain their tractors with this delicacy.
Impressive, I always think about much that pays off long term for Farmers. I always get nervous aroubd farms who go big in scale and start paying Kings Ransoms for machinery to play that efficiency at scale game. One bad year and you are financially crippled. But these older ones just keep on truckin' - No software locks, ebus or laptops needed.
3:40 Tip: The reason that battery's rack have a pivot on the left and a butterfly screw on the right is to swivel it clockwise to reach the oil cap without using an extra long funnel. ;-)
I didn't read all the comments, but I kept hoping at the end the tractor would be driven into a barn or at least under some cover to protect it from the elements. Without that it's just piece of equipment undergoing excessive exposure to nature. In the end nature always wins making all the work done beforehand meaningless. Still I enjoyed the video very much and you're right routine maintenance saves time and money in the long run, be it tractor, automobile or anything with moving parts.
Wow who would have thought doing regular maintenance would make your tractors last longer, glad someone made video or i would never have thought of this.
Hot damn that’s some Fine panning work at the beginning! Old diesel ford, good for work. Mine is logging pine right now with me and it’s a beast. There will be a video shortly.
Great video, and cinematography! It was therapeutic, im stuck inside because the snow is coming down here but i want to be doing some easy, smooth going maintenance on my tractor or any other of my engines. Lol this video was oddly satisfying.
I just purchased a 1978 3400 and it's in pretty rough shape. The motor only has 30 hours on it but who knows on the rest of the tractor. It needs new rear tires, an engine kill rod, paint job and general maintenance. I bought it just to do some brush hogging and dirt work on my property so I think it will be good for that. Your tractor is very nice.
My dad use to own one of these in late 60's and early 70's. I use to drive it when i was 11 years old on the farm. Another thing we use to put like a liter of engine oil down after draining the old oil. This cleans that extra bit of old black oil out more.
I never clean the grease fittings after putting grease in, The reason why is that left over grease will form a coating over the little push ball therefore not allowing dust and grit inside. They do make covers for them, many people do not use them. Also wiping the excess grease will do the same thing, this will close any gaps where water and grit could work its way in... Another thing is to drain the water off the rear end as well, If the unit sits out side for an extended amount of time it can and will get water in it... I have changed my gear oil when I first get a new old tractor, I will find a location with a good incline and leave the tractor there for a few days to a week, this will allow all of the sludge, grit and metal shavings to move towards that area, Then you drain it to a plastic bucket and use a clean magnet to check the oil for metal contents... I have also used light weight oil in the rear end as a washing agent to flush anything else out, drive it around for about 20 to 30 mins and then set on incline wait about an hour or 2 then drain, and install new correct oil... you can do the same with the motor oil, drain old oil and place in a light weight oil and drive around for 20 mins or so, this will move all of the fluids everywhere, drain and replace filter again. I will also over time strip paint from bad areas and put primer and paint on with a hardener, This will keep metal spots from rusting.
This is a 42 HP. A little too underpowered for medium to big farm activities. Still have its charms for sideline jobs. The hydraulics valves were capricious in winter conditions (under 20F)
I inherited a 1995 Ford 3930 tractor. It's a tough tractor but wasn't ever taken care of. My father inlaw bought it new and left it sit out in the yard while nothing was under the 3 carports on the property. Very strange. The sun basically dry-rotted the tires, so it has 4 new tires about $1,200 total. It needs a complete tuneup and has a coolant leak somewhere. Oil doesn't seem to have any coolant mixed in it from a head gasket leak. My mother inlaw says it's like a new tractor, lol, in what world? It is a tough tractor, about 20 years ago I watched it tow a 14x60 ft mobile home about a mile away and up two steep hills.
We had a 1969 4000 year model that we worked hard for 25 years on our tobacco farm. For many years it was the go to tractor. It's probably still going because we maintained it regularly.
My uncle bought a Ford 5000 in South Africa in 1995...I drove it for three seasons in 2006/2007/2008 ploughing seasons. To this day it still runs like a marvel!he added a 6600 several years back .
Good demonstration. An oil filter comes off without tools if it was installed properly. A sheet of coarse sandpaper and gloves is all it takes. If it takes violent measures to remove the old filter someone was not reading instructions during the last filter change. I have had this happen only after "professionals" messed with my cars or tractors. Never after doing the job myself, and I'm a farmer with zero mechanic's training. Makes me think.
I got a laugh when I saw you pull out the punch for that oil filter. Been there, done that, but one time I got over zealous and messed up the threads on the block. Haven't over tightened one since! Great looking old Ford. Those old diesels make so much torque just idling, and sound so good. Really enjoyed the video.
You can get some of those oversize water pump pliers to get that filter off without punching a hole in it. Crunch it down flat so you can get some torque on it. Don't tighten new filter more than 3/4 turn after the gasket touches the sealing surface. Lube the rubber gasket with grease. Mark hour meter reading and date on the new filter. Always warm up engine before draining oil. This helps oil flow out better and insures that there is oil on bearings upon initial startup when oil pressure takes time to build because of empty oil filter.
Mine is a 1965 UK 3000 diesel. Last 3 I had all went porous but this one hasn't. This one is totally original and has been my dads since 1980. Still on the original clutch too. It's always had genuine Ford coolant and oil changed annually. Absolutely zero bother with it apart from the usual ropey hydraulics and heavy steering
@@duncanhowarth9514 Ford tractors aren't built anymore. The company is now called New Holland and they have complet other designs than 40 years ago. But the brand farmtrac in india is building the 3600 for example in a modified way.
FYI 20 yrs ago when I worked at a Ford tractor dealership Ford sent letters to all their dealerships warning or advising (not) to use Napa engine oil filters on Ford tractors they had multiple engine failures. I’ll never forget that. If you use A Napa engine filter make sure it’s The Napa gold highest quality black color filter.
I have a ford 2000 with a gas engine. Great little tractor. Ditched getting ripped off for those large tractor batteries years ago. Been using regular car batteries for years now, with no problems.
@@hermit1249 yup and those lil 3 cyls wether gas or diesel lug like crazy , i did a trans once and clutch , the flywheel almost dropped on my toe it was unexpected heavy.
As soon as as you pulled that draw and grabbed that punch I said yep 😀 That air filter is the reason those tractors have lasted so long. Hey man, I just watched watched one of your bee videos and decided to sub because I knew we talked the same language and then this one , I said well durn, that fella lives just like I do, man how do you find time to make videos. I appreciate your time if you read my comments and I'm not someone that's going to pester you all the time with them but I wanted to introduce myself, I'm your neighbor on a small farm in coastal N.C. I'm in in my 40s so I have a lot of on hand experience on a lot of things, I've never messed around with the internet much and lived live enjoying trying to figure out things myself so if you run into a question about most anything about around the farm I might be able to help, I won't tell you what I think, I'll tell you what I know, and that's not saying I think I'm a know it all I'm just saying I might be able to help. Alright man that's enough about me, I'm going to go look at those sawmill videos and I appreciate you putting this kinda stuff out out there.
Here’s a queer one for yer, Owned my 9n for close to 40 years. Replaced 1x rear tire ‘bout 10 years ago, took off the other tire (leak) this year, and got a new tube, (at the tire store) didn’t put back in calcium, didn’t replace tire. The newer tire has better tread, but more “cracks”. (Same type and same brand -Firestone) They ain’t making tires like they used to. Now, I use tire chains all year, perhaps that’s partly why? (Hilly land). I’m also not ploughing - so will see if having less weight in tires “outweighs” the advantages - brush hogging/ firewood mainly.
Great care given to those machine is worth doing it! I have a 1962 Case 430 and it still work very hard. I would say your video title could be "Doing THIS can make your tractor last 50 MORE years!" Thanks!
Quick tip, always put some silicone gasket sealer around the oil drain plugs when refitting (even with a copper washer) so that there is no chance of the oil leaking out, also acts like a low strength thread locker.
My grandpa and my great uncles used Marvel mystery oil instead of seafoam don’t know which ones better or if they’d be about the same,,, you make a nice video sir and that’s a fine looking Ford tractor you’ve got there...
1965: C100000 1966: C124200 1967: C161300 1968: C190200 1969: C226000 1970: C257600 1971: C292100 1972: C327200 1973: C367300 1974: C405200 1975: C450700 Here are the year codes stamped on Transmission, front upper-right corner, stamped into top of casting. Mine is a 1967, and been a work horse. Great video and good content!! Merry Christmas.
Paul Boulware the closest number I could find was C181888. Top front right of the transmission casting, right above the bolt holes for the loader. Do you have more information? I’d really love to know the exact year on this thing.
Thanks for sharing. Good advice for sure. The worst thing about the Ford 3000 is the thin oil pans. If you look at yours you can see where it was hit by a stump. If you dent it in more it will break off the snout for the oil pump and kill your engine with out you knowing. Be careful. I did it once I know. Jim in Chile.
Congrats. Not all set up - like the struggle getting the filter off. We all have been there. Great comments as well. I'd be proud to have any of them as contributors to Practical Farm Ideas. Greasing pedal linkages and bushes is easy to miss out. Doesn't it all mean a routine? Like scratching the hours on the new filter?
Enjoyed the video. Great quality and fine editing. New subscriber and band mill operator. Own two old blue Ford diesel tractors. Took the liberty of addressing a couple of your viewers. Hope that you don't mind.
I have two Ford 3000s, one is a fuel injected Diesel and the other is a gas carburetor with front loader, great strong tractors hope to have the diesel running before the spring. The diesel has 175 hours on it and over 2,000 on the gasoline one.
I love these little tractors. To me their greatest flaws are the sheet metal oil pans. Looking at yours you can even see where it was dented in a little. If you dent it in enough by hitting a stump, you will crack off the oil pump in the pan and kill the engine. I had to learn this as an 9 year old running one of these doing some scrape blade work. Ford later beefed up the oil pans on their tractors in later years. Other than that this is a wonderful little tractor to do almost all that a small farm needs done. Jim in Chile.
I was laughing when the oil filter wouldn't come off, that's happened to me a few times. Now I have it done at a shop, I just don't have the patience to deal with it anymore. A smart man always takes care of his tools and his woman, maybe not in that order. He sure won't get much done without both of them. Good Job. Hey, how come Junior wasn't out there helping Dad, it's never too early to start teaching him. God Bless
Great job on the video! I have a 3600 that I love and will never get rid of. I could be better at servicing mine, so good review (it's always ready to work). Thanks!
I have a 3600 that I bought two years ago. Very similar. It will need the double clutch replaced soon,but it’s worth investing in maintaining this work horse. It’s one of my best purchases and always there when needed.
Ran a 4000 for 1000’s of hours, know these tractors well. Split many replacing clutch, great little tractors, my favorite in there year. Rebuilt many, hated the special battery, big bucks. 8 speeds were best, stay away from selecto speed
I have a Ford 4000 diesel and a 801 and NAA. These are great tractors. The only problem I have had with the 4000 is the Voltage Regulator. Took several new ones before the dealer found one that worked. So much junk out there any more!
Brandon Hoda I had a 2000 Diesel just like it to. I think it might have been a 69 or 70. I painted the white stripe over the side louvers too. Money was tight, traded it for a gas MF 35 and $3000 to me. That was a mistake! Got a subcompact MF1705 with a loader, thinking about buying a 2610 or 2810 because I just like them. Will keep my subcompact, handy as hell.
Very good, one thing I do every once in a while is check air pressure in the tires, I do not have power steering so my old tractor gets harder to steer if the front tire pressure is low, Also I am on the hard surface road some with my tractor, so low pressure on the back tires will wear tires faster,
