You should put a little snippet screenshot at the end for older BMWs i thought my heater was broken but all along its because I had my climate dial set to cold couldn't believe that dial can change the temp so much I did the opposite ac blasting dial on heat and the ac wouldn't come through... e39 528i tourung I absolutely love all your videos man! You are the true BMW doctor!
Hey Brother, A BMW Race Mech from the States. Always good stuff. One input to this video. Going into the I-Drive is correct on getting the cold air - cold. Although, it actually is cold if the I-Drive Bars are High or Low, the Bars just indicate the "amount" of air-flow to the center which will "seem" colder because of the "increased air-flow", i.e., the Higher Bars indicated. Thanks for taking my input.
Yes. Bmw also let you have the center vents on cold when the others are on hot. Supposedly to help keep you alert. Had a costermer that thought it was broken because the middle vent would not get hot. Just needed altering on the screen.
Thanks Dean your vid on battery charging was well received, have now bought a suaoki battery booster. Once again thank you for saving me Probably a lot of money. 😊
I have just done a decat on my E91, it is running 290 bhp and just under 510 nmt of touqe, do recommend doing a oil change more frequently. 5/6 /7 k. 🤔 By the way it pulls like a train. Love what you do.
I had an E61 and changing between cold and hot on the idrive was so annoying I’ve got an F11 now and glad they’ve put it back as a physical scroll thing
Hey boss, I need help. I changed my N26 ac compressor and it only works when recharging. Once the car is off, and started up again the clutch won’t engage.
Take it to a qualified shop, if the system is empty it has a leak that needs to be diagnosed, if the system is opened to atmosphere it needs to be evacuated before filling.
Hey Doc! Been watching your channel for a while! Absolutely enjoy all your fixes. And have a question to ask about the forte. Wondering if I could get my hands on some. Rather then having a valve stem replaced.
Hello my name is Ahmed, first of all i wanna thank you about all your great work and you really put so much effort in it and it really helped me a lot in taking the decision of buying a used bmw 325i 2012 model i really love it but i have one issue with it, the AC,i live in a Gulf country in the middle east Kuwait, it's near Dubai so his countries are known for there really hot desert weather these days it can reach 50 degree Celsius, so the problem is when the car is parked in the sun for a long time and got in and started the AC it is blowing strong air but not cold, but if i used the car in early morning or in the evening the AC is freezing cold! only problem is in the sun and by the way the car is black so it attract sunlight to it,so is there any solution to make it work better in sunlight? thanks again for all of your great work man! :)
Ideally of you could cover your windows with reflective heat shield might help at keeping temperature of the interior slightly less hot 🔥 most importantly first and foremost regas the aircon.
It’s IMPOSSIBLE to connect it to the wrong side as it doesn’t even fit on the high side ONLY THE LOW SIDE the connector WILL NOT FIT you must be a newbie and don’t know your arse from your elbow if you believe that crap
Good video, it was a bit confusing when you mentioned having to go into the iDrive climate control settings and adjust them; iDrive control can be thought of as convenience functions that modify one or more primary control systems (for computer geeks, think of them as MACROs), as such the primary control system will have/be they way adjustments are done, and will take priority over the iDrive value. When you used the iDrive to adjust the value for the amount of air coming from the vent, the iDrive will adjust 2 primary items: fan speed and front vent flap. Front vent flap is a primary system, it is controlled by the dial on the vent itself. While this does not control the actual mechanisms of the AC system, it controls the amount of cold air that gets let out of the system which in-turn will have an impact on the Expansion Valve which in-turn will impact the AC pump. If you want to avoid changing the iDrive setting, simply use the vent front controls to fully open the vent. Now, the MAX AC button does things the iDrive most likely does not. It will turn on the pump and turn on the Electronic fan and open any flaps necessary to start stage one AC cooling. (Note the low pressure sensor can will override the pump running to protect it from damage.). As far as I recall, the m/ax AC does not adjust the mixing flaps in the HVAC box, resulting in all cold air being directed into the centre vent, but to be sure, you should always take it off auto and select the centre vent, and fully open the dial on the centre vent. Basically, this will allow you to setup the proper AC test conditions without using the iDrive; something you will need to do, should your iDrive controller fail to respond to the select button push. On a side note: if anyone knows of an alternate way to generate a iDrive controller select command, it would be much appreciated; and save me from reverse engineering a controller.
hi BMW doc, I have an N52N E92 325i, and I have tried BATTERY RESET as per your previous video, but unfortunately, I still get a rough/fluctuating rpm when I start my car, the rpm gets to a stable state after a while at around 550-600 rpm. but I feel at times the rpm goes really low while driving and with AC on I get a vibration or more load my car. I have recently changed spark plugs but I do have a failed o2 sensor on bank 2 sensor 1 with P0051 error. Do u think that is the reason for this or something else? please help! Can u suggest something else please. do u think changing the intake manifold sensor will help!
Did u clean the MAF or u can just unplug it? Clean it 1st with spray maf cleaner or u could also unplug it. This in most cases causes the car to go to fail safe mode. If the issue clears up and u have already cleaned the maf.then the maf is bad
Fadimania I would fix what’s associated to your codes first. Then try cleaning maf, selenoids and try fuel cleaner additive. I can remember dean talking about software update and using oem parts.. it can also be a electrical or vacuum leaks... Good luck!
I have a problem with my Bmw f10 n47 520d and have connected it up to the modus and have a few codes that I can give you. Currently it will not start it’s just turning over and it is stuck in park. Please let me know if you can help I do not mind paying.
Thanks for the video. I watched your older one as well, great! I wonder if you have any idea about a problem I have with my old E53 diesel X5. The AC starts blowing cold after many minutes, basically only after the motor is up to normal operating temperature. I had the pressure tested and it was good. When it blows cold it’s proper cold. The aux fan was not working so I put a new one in, now the AC keeps working when I’m stopped at the lights etc. Any ideas why the delayed AC start? I’m going crazy here in Australia it’s really a pain to not have AC for about first 7 minutes. Thanks anyone that can help
I have a bmw 2011 550i twin turbo v8 it’s burn oil I gotta add a quart every 60 miles and now I did change spark and it’s still having problems again misfire cus I need change spark plugs again cus dealer won’t cover the spark plugs only e git ion coil only what is the cause that causing and what I need to change ?
Just get a refrigeration engineer that knows what they are doing. If you get moisture or air in the system then you have a problem. Mainly happens when it completely runs out of gas.
Even more since this car likely has a clutchless compressor. In that case when it completely runs out of refrigerant, the compressor will run out of cooling and proper lubrication and it will take a real beating if not seize up. Also i'd stay away from DIY cans, don't like the fill by pressure with the compressor running thing at all especially with a variable compressor. I'd only let a RRR station charge my system and i'd be providing the proper compressor oil (PAG 46 in that case). Unfortunately, proper AC maintenance is expensive.
Waiting on the q-tip trick jejeje. Thx doc I bought a used 2005 525i as a project car your channel has been if great help. The settings on the idrive would not allow the cold air to come out just as you pointed out. As a kid I used to rebuild and restore VW bugs 60's only. I know these BMW's are much of a different car but it reminds me of my younger days as a bug restorer having fun with it. In my 525i I have removed the dash trim, CD player, AC control panel, vacuumed it all out and cleaned up the plastic pieces (was very scratched up looked ugly as if it was pealing away) to make them look new. As you start to take things apart I notice how accessible screws are to remove the following pieces I find German car assembly to be pretty straight forward. Unlike some other cars that are full of plastic pieces that end up getting brittle and break away leaving you with dangling pieces or pieces that dont flush seamlessly. I will be moving my way up to an M5 2009 for keeps, do you have any recommendations?... possibly a different year?
Can you speak slower to understand you better. I am having trouble taking off the covers under my glove compartment to replace my cabin air filters. Can you show me a video on how to do that? Thank you
You need to check the high pressure side to. Not only the low side. You neet to the specific tester so you can connect low side and high side and manags bouth sides
Hi BMW Doctor: I have a 07 520d M47 engine. My coolant level keeps dropping with no visible leaks anywhere. Checked all the pipes. The radiator. There's no leakage through the head gasket because the oil is clean, no deposits on the oil filler cap either. Did a pressure test on the EGR cooler and it checked out too. Any ideas where I can look? Symptoms: The first sign was the car was turned off and started after a 30km drive on a highway. It said low coolant and the coolant reservoir pipe had come off at the bottom. I thought maybe it was loose so I clipped it back in. There was steam coming from the hose which I assume was because the engine was hot. Next morning, low coolant again after a short drive and this time the pipe had not come off. I had everything checked out, pipes refitted after finding nothing and new coolant put in. Drove 50km and this morning the level has dropped from max to half way between max and minimum. I would really appreciate your advice on this. Thank you :)
hi mate. I own a bmw x5 2004. I’ve replaced the condenser , compressor, radiator fan, condenser fan, and expansion valve and still don’t have COLD 🥶 air. The most it gets is “cool”. What am I missing?
Dean, my 2004 E60 (530i) rolls down all windows and sunroof and unlocks all 4 doors by itself when parked and locked. I made sure my key fob is not pressed when getting away from car. Can you please let me know what is wrong and how I can fix it? Thank you doctor!
Please someone help me! On my f10 535i 2011 my ac on the drivers side is blowing warm in the mid vents, hot on the dash and floor vents but cold on the passenger side. Dealer claims I needed new compressor due to leak and air flow issues but I decided to Start with Freon beforehand…just had refrigerant done (not dealer) and mechanic said it didn’t need much Freon ….if that makes sense and he doesn’t think it’s leaking. WHAT COULD BE THE ISSUE??
Well I won't dare run mine at max at the moment as walker main dealers have had me waiting over 18mth for the recall as some models have a fault that can catch fire
Watched this video, went out and tried in my car and yes I had red lines on settings in iDrive. Changed to blue lines and bang much much colder. Thank you very very much..... :)
The heater control valve is in the engine compartment and is actually two valves. It controls the coolant flow to the two heater matrixes in your dash. There's one inlet and two outlets - one to each matrix. Fortunately it's easy to carefully clamp the flexible outlet hose with mole clams or the like to stop the flow of coolant simulating a working valve. Clamp each one in turn and check if the heating is reduced on the passenger side each time. If it is then you know it's the heater control valve.
THANK YOU BMW DOCTOR FOR ALLL THAT YOU DO ARE GOD SENT or what ever you believe in you are a blessing too EVERY single subscriber thank you and PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE NEVER stop making video , blessings your way
I refilled mine a couple weeks ago. The question is WHY would it have leaked? I have had cars for 20+ years and never had to refill. I can see that someone used dye in the past. Where is leaking?
It is estimated that every year as much as 10% of AC gas has leaked out of its container. This might cause issues after a few years which can be solved by recharging the system. To be fair I've never had to do it in any of my cars as well but my oldest car is just nearly 9 years old.
No mate he's trying to impersonate me, Hence why he hides his subscribers and also why RU-vid does verification to show who the real channel is. I am the real BMW Doctor
Thank you for posting. Its like you knew I had problems with my A/C. Im defo going to try that regas can. I already replaced my AUC sensor since ISTA said that faulty. It says my fogging sensor is faulty but I will try that low pressure top up first
Hi I have the same fogging sensor problem I don’t think it’s anything to worry about as it’s to do with the sensor on your mirror on the windshield it just determines the fogging of window no problem you can replace it or you can just see for yourself if the windows fogging
