How about, a video on awning fabric replacement? Too many RV's are sold without an awning metal cover that covers the awning once it's closed.The outside exposed fabric on the last wrap would deteriorate from UV sunlight rays. Do they make UV resistant tape that would adhered to the exposed fabric surface when it is rolled up? It's such a waste, to replace the whole canopy fabric when only a small portion had deteriorated from UV sunlight rays and start tearing on the last fabric wrap when the awning is rolled up. What is your suggestion?, a UV protection spray, long piece of UV protection tape to cover the exposed rolled up portion of the fabric or, a metal cover that collapses over the awning rolled up fabric?
At minute 6 you mentioned qualified propane techs. I took my 1981 c class to a propane dealership in my town. I had just purchased it and wanted the propane tank inspected and serviced. The tank was not being used by the previous owner. The propane Co. checked it out the filled the tank (8 gal.). When I got it home, I heard a hissing and called the company to report it. They sent a guy to my house (it was after hours). He noticed a plate that the main valve was screwed into, had 4 screw holes but no screws in them. He immediately knew this was a very dangerous situation because that plate could have shot off of the tank like a bullet. He immediately emptied the tank (actually took 2 hours because the valve area would freeze up and he would have to wait for it to thaw out. They fixed it at no charge but I did pay for a newer, up to date, valve assembly and another propane refill. All together, I paid about $220 to bring it up to snuff. Having said all of that, I don't believe the young man who originally worked on it (and over looked the valve plate), was qualified.
I just had to replace my gas valve. It was for an Atwood. Which parts are no longer available. 😢 I was able to locate a part, and was able to fix it myself, thanks to your videos. Your website, with the service manuals, and troubleshooting. It made a big difference. About a month in the service dealer, to find out what’s wrong,then another month and half to get it back in the service bay, for the repair. I did it in an hour. And I only waited 4 days for the part. That was testing taking it apart, and putting back together. I knew I had good propane getting to it. So I just did the Air test, and checked the switch. The switch worked fine. So that’s how I knew it was the valve. No air got thru the valve, when the switch clicked. I wouldn’t have been able to do it, without your help. Thank you!
Love the content! You can up your game a lot by adding chapters + timestams in the description. It would help us viewers and youtube to find the specific questions & answers embedded in the vid. It's tricky to go through all of them to find that one awesome answer to a question. Just a suggestion, I know these take a lot of time. And thanks for all the answers!
Thanks for the suggestion, we've been getting a lot like that lol. We will be making some changes to the format. That was an idea I had a few years ago to start answering questions but it has grown and sometimes these questions are good enough to stand on their own.
Love your videos, and in an effort to learn as much as I can about the in's and out's of typical RV's mechanical and electrical systems, I have watched just about every video you have produced and learned a ton. I'm a DIY'er and help all of my neighbors with just about anything they get stuck on, and have great success. At the moment, I don't have an RV, but my next door neighbor does, and your videos have helped me fix several of his RV Problems. One video I did not find on your site was one dealing with the repair of the Kwikee® Electric Steps. His steps were working intermittently which was very odd. in either the fully up or fully down position, they made a horrible grinding noises, but sometimes they would not move at all. The interlock switch on the screen door tested good, and the enable switch on the side of the cabinet just inside the door tested good. We had power to the step motor when it should have been running, but evidently it was jammed up and would not turn and eventually reached amperage overload and turned off. In his case, I was able to determine that the plastic gear inside of the motor/gear assembly was stripped out, so I was able to order a new motor assembly off ebay for him and basically remove the old one, lube the steps and all pivot points, and then install the new motor/gear assembly. Unfortunately, I had to find the info on another web site, but it might be nice to add this subject matter to your library for your viewers. Keep up the great videos. I love them!
Thanks for all the useful content I refer all my RV friends to the channel. I fixed my furnace issue with your help. Now for a question you might answer, I’m not sure the best place to ask it so I’ll do it here. We have a ‘21 Thor Tiburon 24 TT with a full wall slide. Since new the slide often clunked coming in which I finally figured out the clunking was probably the gear slipping on the front bottom track. At any rate over 2 years it finally gave out and stuck half way in. When we got it to the RV shop they recommend replacing the entire Schwintek system (motors, tracks, h column etc.) They said we’d be better ahead to replace it all, I figured if I brought it to you you’d probably just replace what’s broken. So now for the question when I picked it up the tech told us that his training taught him you shouldn’t sit in a slide when it’s in because it puts stress on that track where mine got stuck, is that what you would recommend as well?
When you look at the labor involved in making a repair on a Schwintek, oftentimes the whole H column has to be removed. The entire assembly brand new is around the neighborhood of $600. So if you can swing it, it's sometimes a better solution instead of removing the H column to replace pieces-parts to just replace the entire H column, racks assembly everything. Oftentimes the labor is less and if the shop does it correctly you have a certain confidence that the slide room will work for many more years to come. On your broken Schwintek we don't know what caused the failure and was that repaired in fixing the individual broken piece, or when you replace the piece is it just going to break again?. As far as riding on it when it goes in and out, I have seen slide rooms that weigh probably a ton with refrigerators and pantries and stoves all fully stocked. I don't think a 200 lb person is going to really make that much of a difference personally. The entire weight of the room rests on the rollers below it not on the tracks on the side. Hope this helps. We do a lot of work on Schwintek with folks traveling from many states away. So I'm more than happy to work with you on yours if you're up this way.
Great video. I've blown two fuseable links just below the burner stack. No sign of burning. I'll clean the burner and tube leading to it to see if that helps.
I had the same problem with mine being intermittent on working and it turned out that the solenoid even though it was in spec on Resistance it wasn't opening the valve all the time. Finding those coils right now is near impossible also...
Question, would the Dominic you are working on be similar to a 1981 Dominic? It could possibly be a 2008 Dominic because I saw a sticker with a 2008 date on it but it could have just been a replacement part with the 2008 date on it. The owner who sold this to me has been very vague about everything. It could just be his age (76) and can't remember or he is just not a forthcoming kind of guy.
We have a Norcold 1210 4 door refrigerator that the lower doors were flying open while driving. After looking at the plunger latches, they are overlapping each other. So the very thin cheap plastic latch plate has the plunger going almost all the way through the same slot. I turned the plate over and it seems to work slightly better. Is there a way to adjust the doors outward so that the plungers meet but not overlap? If anyone can help, much appreciated! Kevin
I have a question about a refrigerator that works on propane only. I replaced the lower circuit board twice now thinking the first was bad because it was used. But the new one still only works on propane. The ohms reading is proper on the element, but that wouldn’t keep the 120v. from going to the element. And both orders I’ve placed was by the model number on my unit. I’ve checked it like three times, still no 120v. coming from the relay on new board. Help?
I am having a problem with my rv Norcold fridge model number NA8lxr . Every couple days the gas shuts off and no burner , no error code . I have to power off and back on then works good for a couple more days . I have replaced the control board and regulator but no change.
Man amazing I have the exact same problem on my Dom Royal 1999 year fantastic refer 3 years full time lp but my burner is clean clean & end piece has gas going through it all the time? Man It works then shuts off so frustration! Man I wish you were in California, because i know rv shops are gonna go through the line up. 1. replace board, 2. try & sell me a new refer, 3. sell me a cooling unit, 4. say it's the face temp/on/off board. HOW DO I AVOID THIS! Last time 1 great Rv place Giewke in Lodi found a simple loose red wire. 2 years later I've checked & they seem good. HELP!
I have a question about the burner and electrode igniter. How far apart should they be from each other? I have had my Dometic RML 8555 refrigerator click for awhile while it tries to light the burner. I could keep the flame lit by adjusting the distance between the two by moving it a little closer to the burner. Is it supposed to be in the flame when it does light the burner? It gets red hot in the flame and makes me think that it would, eventually, melt/damage it so it won't light the burner anymore. Your advice, please.
The electrode should be about 1/8" distance from the burner. I use 1/8 in Allen key for checking the gap. It does glow red hot (orange actually) and should be positioned in the flame. The way it works is by moving a current through the flame to ground. Since there is carbon in the flame they can use that, but the Gap needs to be set correctly for it to make the 'jump'. This is how the control board knows that there is a flame (current making that jump to ground) and will therefore keep the gas valve open. The Gap is a function of the width of the electrode. So eighth of an inch is within spec.
Seems like it's been months ago since you have taken us out on a job. Is the free to watch only going to be 10 min with a tech. Not complaining, but do we need to pay to see your on the job videos.
Hi Darryl, we're not sure why the commercials aren't playing in these videos- it may be that the length is short enough RU-vid isn't adding commercials. We have focused on our question and answer series because of the number of questions we get, and as a way to allow us to work on other areas of the business, including developing tools and courses for our online tech academy. We haven't had as many opportunities to film repairs, since it does take extra set up and time. Thank you for watching, and feel free to give us suggestions on content you would like to see!
This video may help give you some insight into that system. It may not be an exact system that you have but Darren does go into a bit of detail. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GzUYzbNbzTU.html
My fridge works great on electric, but doesn't work on gas even though there's a flame burning and it's heating up the Tower, I can't get anybody to figure out what the problem is,so far, it's frustrating paying money and not getting it fixed, anybody got any ideas?
