1:40: That has got to be THE best feature of any connector ever: Being able to put the plastic part over the metal part AFTER the connection to the wire has been made. My personal odds of forgetting to slide the plastic part over the cable at the right time must be 50% or more.
While I agree it’s super handy, that is not unique to MC4 connectors - most crimp connectors, from big ones like this to tiny things with 1mm pin pitch, work that way. The only crimped terminals I can think of that require forethought are uninsulated faston (spade) terminals, if you want to slip an insulating boot on.
One reason why its safer to stick to lower voltages, most UK homes do not need so many panels in series, the small amount of money you are saving on the copper in the cables is negligible. just run a few 6mm2 cables rather than throwing hopes and prayers on a single connector, its insane to me. I have an array of 9x410w panels (3s3p), pretty standard 3.7kw and my open circuit voltage sits around 100v, it can still arc but wont be crazy like that 500v video.
@@KrysRevamps as Thomas Sowell stars "there are no solutions only trade offs". Cheap affordable power is the solution, neither green activity or commercial interests are interested in cheap affordable power. This is because green movement is based on nature worship and commercial interests want the world plus 5%.
@KrysRevamps lol, horses for courses, your only a tiny generation plant, what about the big plants, your theory would cost balloon pretty quick. I have never had an mc4 connector fail to date. Fit off correctly, you shouldn't have any issues. I am also in a hot climate, extreme testing conditions.
@@bh9420 That is why is said "most UK homes do not need so many panels in series" and not about generation plants. generation at scale wont suffer from this because Bob the local sparky that just got his MSC certificate wont be working on those systems, you would have engineers with decades of experience that triple check their work. anyway maybe your extreme weather climate is fogging up your ability to read.
@KrysRevamps Lol, Bob the local sparky does the work on those big systems where I come from, the engineers are too busy pushing tablet pen sticks in the office, LOL. Enjoy your HV dc system.
MC-4 IMO was never designed for high voltage. My ground mount high voltage system I just cut them off and butt splice then use glue filled heat shrink. Every MC-4 connection I ever seen with over 300 volts eventually start to arc and melt. If you go on the DIY solar forum everyone does this MC 4 will fail only matter of time. Just get rid of them completely it's little scary cutting the plug off the solar panel but reality is never need to deal with it again unless your going to take the panel down worse case you can even replace the wire going into the diode box.
Don't forget to use compatible connectors, usually the same manufacturer, to ensure they do make proper contact. Technically they should all be interchangeable but we all know how sloppy the generic stuff is.
I think it’s even better to just avoid generic stuff, period. It’s not only sloppy mating with others, it’s sloppy with itself. Better to spend the money for the genuine Stäubli.
Just had to deal with Chinese sloppy on neighbors roof. 2 "MC4" connectors together but wouldn't come apart even breaking the tabs off that lock them. Ending up cracking apart and breaking the wire out of the crimp. And then just recrimped new ends on... What a mess. Wasn't too loose. If was to damn tight haha.
I worked as a solar installer during 2013-2016 then became a solar maintenance technician. During that time I mastered both AC/DC parts including connecting the system to the utility and commissioning it.
Haha, i love the comment. “Sometimes these might be live aswell” yeh, those things do matter when you start stripping wire. Better do that on a shady day if not sure.
I crimped and then soldered to ensure absolute minimum resistance. Not messing around with this high power DC stuff. Sure, extra time but safety first for me.
I soldered all my solar panel MC4 connections for my van with four 320w panels connected in series parallell giving 80v. I also covered the entire connection with self vulcanizing tape to be sure they would be watertight. (Edited, I forgot to mention that this is an install on a van that travel often at 90 to 110km/h so the cables is subject to a lot of mechanical movement and vibrations).
@@TechMasterRus At 80v arching is very unlikely, but it is better to be safe then sorry ;) . And on a van that often travel at a speed of 90 to 110km/h the cables is subject to a lot of vibrations and mechanical stress. (I forgot to mention that it was an van install which is very different from static vibration free mounting).
Points from the video... Hard Hats missing on occasion. Using the rails as a ladder and probably damaging the roof tiles under the bracket and the validity of the bracket fixing. ..and as I see on so many roofs , not supporting the cables correctly, leaving them touching/rubbing against the abrasive roof tiles, which over time is a high risk of fire..
Had a DC isolator fail and had no choice but to pull leads under load. covering all panels or wait till dark was to much hassle. Playing with arc much more fun.
Very bad practice. If you’ve done your crimp properly (which means it’s gas tight) then no solder will enter the crimp area itself, but the solder will wick up your wire and create a rigid area _outside of your strain relief_ where flexing can break the wire. If you’re feeling the need to reinforce your crimps with solder, the problem is lousy crimps. Improve them rather than adding solder.
Its true, all the plastics in the solar industry is made from petroleum. This is what makes devices go on fire from electrical heat and not really direct electric spark.
They are mismatching connectors in this video which is a definitive NO-NO massive error and is cause for 80% of all PV related problems/fires. On the panels are Staubli MC4 connectors and they are assembling some other brand of connectors which is definitely not MC4 as only Staubli connectors are MC4 others are clones and reputable names have their own naming as for instance Wieldmuller MC4 clone is named WM4, Amphenol named his MC4 clones H4. No company has licence to produce MC4 named connectors as it is proprietary Staubli name, and no other connector is tested to comply long term compatibility with original MC4. This is why every reputable inverter and pannel uses Staubli original connectors. Check out TUV Rheinland's FMEA Rating of PV Module Failures. Mixing connectors is reat receipe for disaster. Never do that, kids, you'll burn your house down.
Is really painful seen this crossmating situation over and over again, even in videos supposed to be for good practice. The stripping of the cable was also not well done...
I hate that everyone in solar immediately tells you to series your panels. There are so many reasons why not to to do this in a lot of certain applications. It boggles me that people say that without even knowing how the house in question receives sunlight anyway.
No. Calculate the required thickness (CSA) of cable required. Then use appropriate thickness cable and suitable rated connectors. There is no need to guess, and guessing carries risk. Eliminate that risk and do the job properly.
After using MC4s on my boat for 9 years. I can tell you they are the biggest cause of failure in my system. They are absolutely crap, made out of degradable, cheap nasty plastic that breaks down in the sunlight, be it, UV or IR I'm not sure. However, all that needs to be done is to crimp the wires and insulate from short circuit and the weather.
You are leaving to much extra length of un-crimped wire loose. If is not crimped it could arc? I am sure you hate people making these types of comments too.
Hi,is there any tool to cut out automatically that skin off the wire or you have to measure your self everytime that annoying half of inch? (i think ..half of inch?tell me if i am wrong) Please anybody?
Agreed, all those ( ofter to thin ) DC cables running over the roof, making tight bends everywhere... I also hate it. Thats why I went for Enphase with micro inverters, much safter and simply better for good reasons. Probably also much more install friendly. The use of DC cables should be reduced to a minimun. Also the losses in a good length of DC cables are pretty significant.
Those are not made off to specifications. First of all: He stripped the insulation to far back. This is the only correct way (German with subtitles): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sErsAfgwFrI.htmlsi=CErfpB61degL3wMN
The void to hold the stripped wire is deliberately quite generous with MC4 connectors to allow easy in field stripping and preparation of the cable. There is no need to precisely measure the amount of insulation removed. Anyone doing so is simply burning time and the customer's money.
@retrozmachine1189 my crimper have a guide and a bit of tin which only sits down flat if the stripped wire is not to long. I have had them a long time but they keep the crimp end square and set the crimp in the jaws at a set point.
@@andyhodchild8I am guessing you are using something like Staubli's crimper? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DUIOfUflD8A.htmlsi=C1CKOwppYArtsrSb
Not the best way to do it. You should ensure the cable reaches into the cylinder as the actual conductor, is the neck between the crimp and fixing.... 30amp rating apparently...
I’m leery of the unbranded crimp tool. The more I use first-party crimp tools, the more I realize that most no-name crimp tools are crap, producing poorly formed, improperly pressed crimps.
@@dyslectische Adjusting the tension wheel cannot, and will not, make up for crappy dies. I know what I’m talking about: beyond being a trained electronics technician with an unhealthy nerd interest in connectors, I own a number of no-name tools, as well as a handful of first-party tools. And at work I have access to more. There is no comparison in the precision of the dies. The no-name tools often literally have the wrong shape in the dies (very often, they’re made to crimp wider and flatter than the real tool would), and with much sloppier tolerances. Good crimp tools specify their tolerances in hundredths of a mm. Cheap tools don’t even come close.
@@tookitogo than you talk about china product. Thare good tools make for cheap in Germany . What just work fine. For the rest my self a trained electrische technician . Special for track and trace systeem. We only use tools that have certificate and we have recalibrate after 1 year of use. So i do know my stuf But again people do not pay for it . So thare are good normal tools for normal price for a normal man to use.
@@dyslectische Well yeah, of course I mean Chinese junk. German-made tools aren’t no-name! (I have various Knipex at work. And of course the connector-name-brand tools are practically all made in either Germany, Sweden, or USA.) However, for most connector types, there exist no decent third-party tools. So you either get the original first-party tool for $$$, or you get some Chinese junk that’s not optimized for anything, and most certainly can’t be calibrated. :/
Yes I wondered how many use a winch, I wanted to see how the winch was set up at the top. I have one but you need another rig short lift to make it work, to lift it over hand rail.
This system of panel racking is not good, birds build nests underneath which leads to a build up of compost between the panel and roof which can cause leaks to the roof and even combustion of the compost as composting organic matter can spontaneously ignite due to heat build up, I would never recommend a roof system over an easily maintained ground system, these systems only really make sense on accessable flat roofs
Stupid question on my part: How do you deal with any bird-sh!t that might accumulate on the panels? I know you need a clear sky facing, but you have little comtrol of avian flight paths. Are some panels more resistant to having it welded on? Does it make a difference?
