This video demonstrates how clean sediment out of water heaters and why flushing is a waste of time. It uses the Turbo Tank Cleaner, a water heater cleaning tool. Buy Now: turbotankcleaner.com
1) i pour a few gallons of white vinegar into a drained heater and let soak overnight. then simple turn on water supply and heater. the vinegar will have dissolved sediment. there will be a little vinegary odor in the water for a few days, but no prob 2) most (all?) water heater tanks are coated on the inside with glass. i would be leery of the steel spring auger scratching/cracking that lining.
I just remove the lower heater element and attach a short piece of 3/4" hose to my wet-or-dry shop vac and just suck out all the sediment. It's a piece of cake and gets nearly all the sediment out with little effort in just a few minutes. When it's over, I open the shop vac and can see for myself how much is removed. The first time I did it, there was well over a five gallon bucket full of sludge. Annual cleanings not so much because not much accumulates in a year. But my hot water heater now has plenty of hot water and we never run out of hot water anymore. And it recovers faster than before too. It's like a brand new hot water heater. I wouldn't waste my money on this contraption depicted in this video.
@@lexuses3942 I remove the lower electric heating element and stick the suction hose through there and suck out all the sediment. When I'm done I simply re-install the lower heating element. Sorry, I should have been more detailed in my description.
I completely agree. When I moved out of my last house recently my water heater was over 25 years old and in perfect condition. I've had to replace neighbors lower elements and full of sludge I couldn't even get half out. Maintenance goes a long way. I say on a well flush at least once a year or every 6mo and that will help with the sediment before it builds up so much. Town water typically isn't as bad but probably wouldn't be a bad thing to flush every so often either. I've flushed heaters and gotten gallons of sediment which flushed through the hose. It will harden up and become big chunks if it goes too long. When you use the pipe which is a great idea I've don't also just be cautious of the dip tube. If it breaks good luck finding a new one it's a pain lol. You have to order it and it can also be a pain to replace. Most people now days replace the whole heater if it breaks because it's hard to find and takes to long to get.
YES, this works best with electric water heaters. Natural gas and liquid propane (lp) water heaters do not have the heater element holes but they do have a drain spigot (plastic) that can be removed for shop vac acess. When reassembling the drain spigot try to upgrade it to a nicer all metal one for a few extra dollars. On gas/lp water heaters, it might be even smarter to acess the shop vac through the upper pressure release valve hole. Not sure about drawbacks on that set-up.
I pull the heating element , use a flexible hose on a wet vac. Element hole is larger and your able to get quire a bit out. Turn water on and agitate once you get all you can reach. I replace all my plastic drains with brass ball valves.Some break removing them but just cut them or chisel out . They have improved this product and I may try it out.
Where I live hot water heaters last about 3 to 5 years at most. When I was building my new house a guy at McCoys Building supply talked me into buying a heater called a DeLimer that cost twice as much. I took the gamble and (knock on wood) its been working for 31 years, never flushed. I don't know how much more life it has but it was a great buy.
I drain the water heater, then remove the 3/4in ball valve and the lower heating coil. This allows me to see into the tank. I made a extension hose with a curved tip for my shop vac that would fit through the drain hole while I shine a light through the heating coil hole and vice versa. I was able to manipulate the extraction hose enough to remove 90% of of the sediment which was about 4-5 cups. But, it was really tedious. I wish water heaters had a high pressure clean out hatch (~6in) that allowed easy access to see and reach inside the tank to inspect heating coils and the anode rod and enable easy extraction of sediment. But, I'm sure they'd rather your water heater fail so you have to buy another. I've also found that plumbers don't really care to flush water heaters or even replace the sacrificial anode rods. They've told me they wont take a tool off their truck for less than $200. So, screw them. I'll do it myself for a few bucks and little of my time.
@@christaylor9895 OK, I have a photo. Where should I send it? I used three different extension hoses duct taped to shop vac extensions to vacuum sediment from my electric water heater via the lower heating coil fitting. The sediment was several inches thick and was beginning to bury the lower heating coil.
We have hard water, with lime added by county, so leaded connections on old copper tubes won't leach into the water supply. When sediment got too high in hot water tank, it caused the bottom element to make odd sounds, and eventually burned out. I shutoff electric and water, drained what I could, then removed the old heat element. I then poured 2 gallons of Muriatic Acid into the tank through the hole for heat element and let sit overnight. I then turned on the water supply to tank, with old element to block the hole, and opened the drain to hose to outdoors. Outside I could see a lot if not all sediment coming out, till water ran clear. I turned off water supply, and once drain out was finished, put new heat element back in. It's been years and tank still working great.
I’ve always been afraid to use muriatic acid inside the tank because of the supposedly higher possibility of rusting within it. I’ve always used vinegar. Since you had good results with muriatic acid though, I’ll give it a try!
@@lmckrosen123 Thanks, forgot to mention the hydrogen gas. Best to open the bleed valve at top and have an heater element removed to allow it to escape. When turning the water back on, need to open the bleed valve anyway to let even air out till water comes out of the bleeder valve on top. I'll call home to Maryland, I'm in Florida right now, and have my wife or daughter see if they can snap me a picture of date plate on our old water heater. I'm curious how old it is myself, since in 35 years there I can't recall ever doing more than replace a couple elements.
@@JoeZyzyx When I did mine, I removed the anode rod and dumped about 8 gallons of vinegar into the tank. I capped the anode rod port, pressurized the tank, topped it off and brought it back up to temp. I let the majority of that solution through all the faucets in my house over the course of about 8 hours. I couldn’t believe all the green and gray sludge that the vinegar cleared from them! My hot water flows so much better since I did that, too! I allowed the remainder of the solution to run out the clean-out port. Most of the sediment was broken down pretty well, too. Mind you, I have a natural gas tank so I wasn’t concerned with electric elements. I replaced my anode rod with one of those nifty segmented ones that don’t require tipping the tank to fit it under a low ceiling! I love those things!
@@lmckrosen123 I bet you had to unscrew the screens on the faucet spouts to clear them though. Not typically on bathtub, but sinks have them. I've replaced those a few times myself, cheap fix. I'll have to keep that anode tip in mind, sounds like a winner.
I’ve cut open a tank. It’s crazy what’s in it. I replace mine every 10 years. Good enough. I suspect if you actually try to remove that drain valve you will just break off the plastic inside and have to replace it anyways. I cranked on mine once and it was twisting but not coming loose. It sure looked like it would break.
How long are we talking here? Surely 10 years worth (and I am surprised you get that long) without any sort of flush is surprising. I just recently purchased a new home and the water heater was in dismay.. And it is only 4 years old now! While this is mainly due to improper installation but I attempted a flush and could not get the drain to budge (why do they make them plastic anyways?!?!). The water around here is harsh. But I feel if done annually, I should not have any troubles. Same goes for plumbing shut-offs.. I've replaced/repaired many so far and I'd bet they were never closed since installed. Water heater will be replaced shortly and I will flush (or this use this tool) annually.
OR, a water softener that prevents this crap from forming to begin with. Didn't have to break into my water heater since having my softener installed until an element actually went out. Changed em out and they both looked as good as new with ZERO buildup. Well worth the investment.
The amount of money it costs to run a salt-free water softener for 10 years will easily buy you 3 or 4 new water heaters + water softener systems add complexity, tend to cause a reduction in flow and have health risks. Waste of money and arguably a bigger gimmick than the product this video is shilling.
@@desktorp the elimination of scale in my lines and heater, and zero reduction in water throughout from my water softener says otherwise. I also spend 6 bucks every two months on a 40lb bag of salt for it, so $360 over the course of ten years.
My heater is a 2004 model flushed yearly like clockwork. Last time i replaced the anode I looked down inside it was spotless flushing works replacing anodes saves tanks.
I'm a licensed plumber. It's a pointless waste of time for most city water. If you are on a well it may have some value. My last water heater lasted 21 years and was never flushed.
Fancy seein you here 😎. Yeahh, but since most people dont know about routine maintenance on anything, you're more likely to buy a home that would need this than not. Then again, I dont think I've ever seen sediment cause catastrophic failure on a water heater.
California plumbing contractor for many years. Did alot of contract work for Sears when they were in business, sometimes 5 to 10 a day. Think about ALL those permits I had to pull. I almost invented something similar. I bought two of these and have wore the first one out. Alot of my business is cleaning water heaters. Nothing works better than chopping up the sediment. This tool does not have to run full speed to chop up the sediment so if you are worried about damaging the inside, go slow. If you are cleaning an electric water heater, you should replace the elements because they are all caked up. If you are disposing of the water heater, who cares if you tear up everything on the inside. Suction hoses get plugged up too fast with big chunks. I always remove the thermostat control valve as well as the drain bibb, that way I can see inside when the water is low enough. I hope you made some money with your invention because you have saved me alot of time which equals money. Good thinking my friend
Draining your tank periodically hasn't been passed down from fathers to sons, it's passed on from manufacturers to consumers by installation instructions and use and care guides.
You would have to be one of the rare homeowners that reads the instructions on their equipment. My dad did teach me about this as he did many other repair and maintenance activities that go along with being a homeowner. I do agree though that a quick read of the instruction manual can answer many questions.
Maybe he read the owner's manual? I'm an electrician and spent ten years in aviation while in the military... which does make me an outlier when it comes to reading instructions in construction. I find them helpful, and customers appreciate it.
@@ryanbrown8398 Probably. My dad joined the Marines in the early 50s and was very disciplined where instructions were concerned. He made me read every owners manual and maintenance book we had on every piece of equipment on our small farm. I've been a diesel and heavy equipment technician for 25 years now and it never ceases to amaze me when people pay me to answer questions that are answered in their owner's manual.
I use acetic acid (vinegar). Calcium carbonate is soluble and dissolves. I put a gallon in with water. I wait 24 hours. And clean it again until the drain water runs clear. I also check the sacrificial anode. My last tank lasted 25 yeas when I moved. Also I run the tank at just hot enough to last through a long shower. That is about 125 deg F.
I initially tried draining my tank by just opening up the valve and letting it drain. I did run into the problem of the chunks of sediment blocking the valve. I then put in a three-quarter inch ball valve that improved the drainage. But I was still running into the valve being blocked from time to time. I solved the problem of blockage by adding CLR to the tank and letting it sit for 4 hours and then draining. It came out very easily after that and the water ran clear after a couple of subsequent drainings with no more blockages.
Yikes....CLR??? It could leave behind chemicals that end up in your kitchen sink, dishes, pots, pans, cooking water, shower water, etc.....ugh....not recommended to use chemicals.
CLR is acid. Don’t believe somebody would pour acid into their water then used that same water to take a shower with, to cook, and to wash their dishes.
Has anyone ever heard of a Hague watermax Signature series water refiner system? Wow, these things are way more advanced than a water softener!! Multi staged chambers are loaded with specifically developed refiner media compounds that treat a multitude of waterborne contaminants all in 1 system with no need for different tanks!! Highly suggest one of these, as mine has saved not only the hassle of this irritating maintenance, but all my appliances will last virtually forever! Expensive unit, but it literally pays for itself. And the units are 100% American made in Groveport, Ohio, not just assembled there!! Do the research and you'll see how awesome this unit is!!
Gas model here too, was about 10yr's old when I bought my house and certainly never flushed, it's close to 20yr's now and I've only flushed it maybe twice w/basic drain&refill nothing fancy method, still works fine for our needs. Whether or not you should flush often depends on your water quality IMO and last time I studied into it the drain+vinegar soak over night+pressure flush method worked best (wet vac added in prob even better) but based on how long most ppl get away without doing it often like me I think it mainly just helps regain water capacity and not so much to do with preserving the tank.
Good luck removing the drain valve. I have tried before attempting to speed up the water draining from old water heaters when I replace them. They don't budge
I’ve been plumbing for over 23 years and flushing does work and you should do it at least once a year. He’s just plugging a product a product that looks like it’s made to shatter dip tubes. Despite his claims. If he sends me one I’ll try it but I get a feeling I’ll be replacing a dip tube in the process.
Question for you. I found amber colored beads in my washer today. From a search it says they are water softener resin. I don't have a water softener. Where did they come from and what's the fix?
Well first I would confirm what the amber beads actually are. If it’s silica and you don’t have a softener then maybe you have another filter or similar unit. Honestly without even a picture it’s almost impossible to say.
I scoop up discarded water heaters set out at the curb for trash day. I then, strip them to the tank, slice off the top and bottom caps, and use the tank body sheet steel for various welding and fabrication projects. I'm always amazed at the volume of crap inside the tanks. And replace those sacrificial anodes every seven to ten years.
@@chuckroast3573 Be nice, chuck roast.😊 This may be better than nothing for the homeowner as long as the unscrupulous homeowner is warned in the instructions the existing valve must unscrew cleanly, and maybe have a fresh ball valve ready to take its place.
Worked for me: City water (lake water treated) had/has LOTS of sediments when I flush!!!. Don't do it every year but maybe 2 to 3 year cycle. I had two in one house that lasted 24 & 26 years each before having to swap them out. Did replace heating element in each (10 dollars) and a new thermistat after a lighten strike went through many appliances! The flushed debris was yellow and crumbly almost like hard dry grits.
Interesting, in San Diego california area our water is very hard - in my condo, I have an electric countertop water heater supplementing our central hot water - crap build up quickly in my Ariston and Bosch water heaters, my Eccotemp now builds up less - I have installed a Clearwave water conditioner to help reduce this, buildup probably varies greatly depending on where you are located. On my Ariston and Bosch water heaters, I would have to replace the anode rod every 6 months - on the Eccotemp it is lasting much longer.
The dip tubes are made of thin pvc and are used to direct incoming cold down to the bottom of the tank ??? What happens to the effectiveness of the water heater now ??
Two things you neglect to mention. 1) You're still draining the tank. You have to pull the valve assembly out (which you talk about being a bad thing), which means that you have to cut off the water into the unit, let it drain, remove the valve, THEN thread the unit - otherwise, you'll be continuously pouring water all over yourself, the floor, and everything in the area. 2) You're replacing the valve with this unit, which becomes the valve. Basically, you're still flushing the water heater, you've just added an agitator. Have you attempted making this same unit with a straight through for the water, and a right angle connection for the drill? It might be more efficient for the water flow, even if less efficient for the rotary motion.
I did plumbing and heating for a living for 5-years prior to going off to engineering school. It is quite common to replace a component "on the fly" without draining the tank. If you turn off the water heater supply valve and do not open the relief valve, you should be able to swap out a drain valve and only lose a little water. I've done it with heating elements. Granted, you have to be quick and have good dexterity. If you're all thumbs, they yes you'll get a little wet.
@@tbelding You'd be surprised. If the pressure is bled off the tank before you try to swap a drain or element, it's not going to spray at you. Since there's little air to get into the tank, it'll just kind of glug, glug, glug, and not much water will come out. Granted, I'd have the heater turned off from the night before so that it's cooled off a bit.
The other day I started getting the dreaded water heater knock. Flushing didn't work so I ordered this tool and it worked. I don't know what else to say about it, it worked good and the knocking went away, it did take a long while and a lot of water to clear all of the stores up sediment but it's also a 12 year old tank.
Funny...that time in the 90s one of our guys cracked a toilet with the drain water from the heater... There was no operable drain in the basement. Glad I never did that, would be EMBARASSING....lol 5gal bucket solution.
I agree with this, no need to flush the water heater. When I first bought my house in LA Ca.1986, the owner said he never flush the water heater tank, built in 1975 so I flush it because of some plumber recommendation and I didn't find any sediment. The water heater leak during its 20 years so I replace it. Now I never flush the heater, although I see a lot of video that flushing the water heater is necessary. On my second house the water last 17 years, 75 gal tank, without any flushing, it only leaks so I replaced. I always set my dial to recommended setting triangle or 120 degF to avoid pinhole and tank last longer. Now I have a dual 50 gal in my 3rd house, in series since 2005 without any flushing. First tank set at around low or 90 degF and the second one 120degF. Even if the 3 shower is being used, I find their is enough heated water to complete the bath.
I've got an A. O. Smith water heater from the 1970s. Still works well, too. I'm curious about what's inside, but I'm an "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," person.
@@jonkirkwood469 I bet you both live in the South, where few minerals in the soft water, unless you have iron water from a well. Even iron water though is less a problem than hard water areas.
Mine is a 1992 Rheem. Flush every 6 to 8 weeks for 5 minutes with the hose attached to the wide open drain. Replaced the plastic draine valve with another plastic valve in 1998. Keep the heat low.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists Yes, but it also means if you have small children, they won't get scalded if they are in the bath and turn on the hot water spigot. My children are all grown now, last one college age, and we never turned the heat back up. I still can get in shower, just turn on tap, not add cold water, and be perfect temp. Had ours set at 120F setting. Can save on electric too, but need at least a 50 gal tank.
I unscrewed the drain assembly and used a shop vac to suck out all the sediments on the bottom which hadn't been flushed in over 15 years. Modified the vacuum tube with smaller pvc pipe attached with duct tape so it will fit through the drain hole.
I like that idea. Better to have manual control of a vacuum tube than have a metal cable whipping around, possibly damaging parts (even though the video guy says it won't damage the internal parts; I don't trust him). Even if you don't get 100% of the sediment - as you won't be able to get the sediment to the immediate left and right of the drain port - just vacuuming up 75% of the sediment is still probably good enough. You just want to keep the sediment level low - probably what's most important. Actually, I thought of a way to do a more complete job. In addition to a small straight tube for vacuuming you could probably also have a short curved tube to blow air (reverse the wet vac hose to the blower side) and blow the sediment at the immediate left and right of the drain port away and toward the rear of the water heater, at least out of those hard-to-reach areas. That way it's better-accessible for vacuuming when you switch back to the vacuum tube. That way you can probably get almost 100% of the sediment out. The only remaining problem is that some of the sediment may be in the form of large chunks - too big for the vacuum tube and maybe even too big to fit through the drain port. Need a way to break up or dissolve the larger chunks. That's one thing the Turbo Tank Cleaner does, albeit at risk of damaging something. Maybe if your vacuum tube is 1/2" stainless steel tubing you can try to smash the chunks if you can manage to get enough swing motion.
@@rhmayer1 With mine there was no large chunks, at most small pebble size, but if you have well water maybe different. And you can add more water to help suck out the last remaining gunk.
I’ve gone to flush water heaters for replacement, sometimes the water won’t even come out due to all the build up. I’m just wondering how he’s gonna say water will pass through without any resistance
Nice try ! I've removed lime scale from water heaters successfully for 35 years ! Never used a device which can destroy a water heaters sacrificial anode either. Sediment varies widley from one area to another. FLOURIDE , CHLORINE , LIME and many other additives added to city water are difficult to remove. Replace the sacrificial anode as needed . Replace the heating element as needed . Detatch the supply side of the water heater and attatch a hose. (Addapter) Open or remove the drain valve and the pressure will help flush as you snake the drain with a sewer snake.
Have very hard water. Thought it wise to replace anode rod, water heater about 10 years old. . First removing these might take 2-3 people, there's videos on it, it's a bitch. The anode rod I removed was actually in pretty good shape and since I had a new one I did replace it, but it was not worth the effort.
I live in LA Ca. and I find its not necessary to flush or replace the anode, just wait until it leaks then replace it. Flushing is a waste of effort and water. I tried it once and I didn't find any sediment, even replacing the drain valve to bigger one, no improvement, no sediment.
So this is what we do with commercial boilers. We hook up the drain to pour into a 5 gallon bucket with a mesh strainer. A transfer pump pulls the water from the bucket and back into the top of the boiler. What was in the bucket initially is descaler. It melts the scale which collects into the strainer.
Yep, we also used descaler for cooling towers, boiler and condenser tubes. I wonder how long for the smell to get out of the hot water. I once had a bad experience with some smelly evaporator coil cleaner.
One trick I used to break up sediment was once the tank was drained off I would open the cold water supply valve for a couple seconds and shut it off and let it continue to drain and do that several times trying to blast the sediment on the bottom to drain but when I finally realized it was all the lime and calcium deposits were too big to fit through the drain valve even if I replace it with a boiler drain so probably won’t waste my time anymore
This looks like a good tool but, I have seen other plumbers say there there is no need to remove the sediment anyways. Stating that it doesn't extend the life of the tank and the sediment isn't really bad for you. So there is no need. Is this wrong?
Can you show the tool work on a tank that is cut open? Perhaps show the effective of each other method than use your tool to completely remove the sediment.
Many water tank liners are .060 or so (sixty thousands) thick, that's only 1/16th of an inch. Especially on an older tank the last thing I'd do would be to use a mechanical spring flopping around inside the tank, seems like suicide to me. But, to be fair, I'd only know if I flushed 2 tanks the way I normally do and 2 tanks with this contraption and do a 10 year test. Tanks leak at the welds, not the liner itself, I wouldn't want to use this inside my tank with all of it's mechanical vibration and whacking against the inside of it with a spring...
They also have a protective coating that isn't designed for this type of treatment. I also worry about the same vibration risks for people who use impact wrenches to remove the anode rod.
Flushing alone isnt enough. You need to MT the tank and remove the bottom heating element on an electric heater. Dont know if a gas heater has this option. Once removed you can look into the bottom of the tank and see any sediment. You can use a wet/dry vacuum with a adapter to remove most of the material..larger chunks will be caught on the vacuum and can be removed from the tip.
well I live in Hawaii and have solar hot water heater. Flushing really helps clean the panels and you can notice hotter water after flushing the panels and tank.
When it comes time to do this 2015 installed Rheem Platinum Plus 12 year water heater I will shut the water off, pull the Anode or what's left of it, and pour some Muriatic acid down the hole. After it soaks for a spell I'll run water in from a hose and let the effluvia out the drain spigot and repeat until I get clean water. As it is I drain a gallon or two a month per manufacturer's instructions. I am on well water and a renter. If I become the next owner then serious water maintenance begins.
It probably makes more sense to install a filter between the water supply line and the hot water heater. That way, it will catch most of the heavier and larger stuff, so when you do go to drain/flush it, it won't clog as easy or as much, and you'll be able to get most of the debris out. You can also go longer in between drains.
@@davidgordon5632 Not sure that this applies to people with shallow wells, like myself. I've heard numerous people with such wells indicate that over time, their water heaters build up A LOT of gunk and sand/grit, like up to near the bottom element. I don't have personal experience with looking into my water heater, or using a wet vac to suck out stuff from the bottom element--so I can't say for sure, but I don't see why these folks would lie about this. If this is objectively true, there is no way that it is solely from the anode and elements. Some folks also say that regular draining/flushing doesn't do much good because this kind of sediment is heavy enough that it sinks to the bottom most of it doesn't actually come out during a draining/normal flush, but that you have to use a shop wet vac and go through the bottom element port and suck it out. One guy who said that he did this, said that the shop vac was filled with gunk and sediment after.
You are correct in that simply running water through the bottom of the tank will not dislodge the built-up sediment. With gas water heaters, sediment buildup is not as much of an issue, but I've still had to go in through the drain valve hole from time to time to physically clean the bottom and sides of the tank. Gas water heaters are like upside-down funnels, so you really need to focus on the outside diameter at the bottom of the tank. Electric heaters are the ones that have given me more problems. The sediment really cakes up on the bottom and the only good way to remove it is to remove the lower heating element and go in there with a piece of stiff copper wire, extra long drill bit, or whatever else you can come up with and break it up and dig it out. I've had to make home made scoops to shovel that stuff out through the heater element opening, and believe me, it is a time consuming process. And, there have been times when there was so much junk built up in there, the heating element was encased in the sediment and I've had to take those out in pieces. A water softening system or some other type of filtration system is a good investment in areas where hard water is a problem.
As someone who just became responsible for a gas w/h that's 12 years old and never been descaled or had its anode changed... The forbidden rock candy I pulled out today says it's still a concern.
Thank you so much for this comment - could you clarify for me one thing? In the video and in your comment you all mention going straight to the drain valve hole but without draining first - isn't the water super hot? Could you say a little more about how to manage this? If I have a hose on it the hot goes outside, but I feel like the explanation was missing a step above to keep the hands safe. Thank you so much! I'm new at this and the water when I was growing up was not soft or hard and in 45 years I don't think my parents ever drained or replaced a water heater, but the water where I am (and these days in general) is tougher to deal with so I do see mineral buildup in the house and want to make sure the water heater is taken care of. Thanks!
@@lindsaywilliambrown808 yes, you would first shut off the incoming water supply and, most importantly, turn the heater off. After that, you could wait overnight and drain the tank the next day after the water inside has cooled. That would be the safest way. Then remove the drain valve and proceed to clean.. Once you've cleaned or inspected the inside of the tank, reinstall the drain using Teflon tape on the threads, available at home depot, lowes, or any hardware store. wrap about three layers of tape around the threads and pull it until it breaks. That will secure the tape. Also, the right way to wrap thread tape is to have the end the end of the fitting that goes into tank facing you and wrap the threads in a clockwise direction. That keeps the tape from unraveling when you screw it into female threads. You don't need to tighten the drain fitting crazy tight. Just tighten it by hand until you can't turn it anymore, then finish tightening with whatever tool you used to remove it, usually about 1 to turns and until the outlet is facing the right direction.then and only then do you you turn the water supply back on. Do NOT turn the heater back on yet. Let the tank fill completely before firing up the heater. You'll need to turn on hot water outlets in the house to bleed air out of the pipes, and it will get noisy and plumbing fixtures will act like they're about to tear themselves out, but that's normal as air bleeds out. Once the water is running clear at the faucets, you can fire up the heater and you're back in business. For electric heaters, reinstall the bottom heating element, using a new element. Use whatever gasket, seal, or o-ring that comes with the element and use the same type of seal as originally installed. No thread tape needed. Other than that, follow the same filling and air bleeding procedure.
Some of the old dip tubes would self destruct over time, but nowadays they seem to be much better. If your dip tube is in good shape it will not be harmed.
I take the bottom Heater Element out o Electric Water Heaters and I use a small tube to suck everything out. I have removed 5 Gallons of Sediment from mine before.
As of 2/24/2022 on Amazon as linked from the Turbo Tank Cleaner web site "Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock". So don't get too excited about trying this out.
The title, and description, are misleading as the video essentially depicts a standard drain and flush procedure with the addition of this third-party, "as seen on TV", device. The additional step occurs at 1:57 "then replace the drain valve with the turbo tank cleaner". This additional step adds time, cost, complexity, risk, and a mess, to an otherwise straightforward, easy, routine maintenance procedure.
I found very small amber colored beads in my washer today. Look like water softener resin, but I have no water softener. Where did they come from an what do I do about it?
If you have that much sediment in the bottom of your hot water tank treat your water it means it's hard as a rock and will affect all plumbing in your house if you don't treat it AKA water softener they work everything including deposits in your tank less soap to wash your dishes your hair your clothes.
Most anode rods are steel coated with magnesium. A far better plan is using a powered anode rod from day one. They are 12” or so long and work far better then sacrificial rods.
Damage to the tank has never been an issue. If you are worried simply spin as slower RPM. There is no need to spin fast. The pressurized flowing water does all the work.
LOL, Rookie....... Do the same thing over and over and expect different results. I have been doing similar to your solution for years. Nothing new. *By the way, how are you supposedly both Spraying water into the tank and draining the sediment out with only 1 hose connection? It has to be either hooked to a water source or a drain location. *Also, what is with the Don't Drain your tank? You cannot remove the lower fitting without the tank draining. Sales Pitches, good grief! smh **** Lastly - no warning about beating the hell out of the Anode Tube? OMG!
Must agree. In 49 years in the field, I have never seen anybody flushing water heater. Not even once. Nobody never asked for it, and nobody ever agreed to have it done. People rather replace water heater than flush it. I think flushing water heaters is a myth. Thank you
I flush/clean mine every 6 months along with changing the elements because of all the buildup. I also vaccum out what I can reach. Problem is, I can't reach the sediment directly below the bottom element... which is unfortunately where the drain is located.
Don't waste your time and money on this device. I bought one and cleaned out my 8 year old water heater and caused it to leak just 5 days later. Hence water heater replacement due to the small hole from removing the sediment.
Why were you cleaning your tank in the first place? Was it not working? If not, then you were gonna replace it anyway. If yes, then why mess with it at all? My point is, if you are told you need a new water heater because it's full of junk, it's worth a shot to save it. Nothing to lose.
I've heard some remove heater element, put a high pressure nozzle on end of water hose turned on full, and it can really cut up a lot of the sediment to move it out the drain hole. I personally prefer to just use acid to break it up to get out.
What about the pipes in there? When this thing is banging around in there, wouldn’t it damage them? Maybe break them? Idk I like the concept but that risk makes me think not using it
It seems to me degradation of a water tank depends on water use. When a tank fills with H2O until it's tapped for hot water. That first tank of H2O is already deionized by the anode rod and won't be back in play until another top off brings in new scale water. For most people with a tank in their house this won't make any difference since the tank will fill and refill daily, and even more often with more people in residence. That's normal use and normal sacrificial rod exhaustion. But if there's a 40 gallon at the cabin or summer residence, usage drops down to duration of occupancy. The upshot is part time residences will tend to have a longer life span on their water heaters than their established residences, perhaps twice to three times as long depending on how often the part time water heater is used and by how many. Preventative tank changes might not be necessary along with the on demand house tank swap simply because of age. Part time residential use is only somewhat more taxing wear if the tank is drained between seasons (to prevent freezing), and filled again with fresh pre-anode water when occupants return, as that requires the anode to get back to work again for another full tank. Top offs? Less taxing on the water heater, but perhaps less sensible in unoccupied freeze conditions.
But an in-service hot water heater is never empty. A hot water tank is always completely full. It continually "tops-off". Hot water that is drawn off of it is simultaneously replaced from the cold water supply.
