I mentioned that I gave my compactor the same treatment 5 years ago. It ran those 5 years problem free. Finally gave up the ghost with oil seal problem and I swapped another motor onto it. So plus 5 years extra life and dozens of jobs completed. Proof is in the pudding! Preppers take note ..this works!
This works great, something my dad taught me in the 70's, he learned it from his dad. Instead of a stove I use a crock pot, a couple hours simmering and stuff comes out squeaky clean.
I keep a pot in my shop to boil carbs that need to be rebuilt. I use 4 gallons of distilled water and one scoop of oxiclean and every time they run like a brand new carb. I've done quadrajets, Motorcraft, and a but load of Harley cv and s&s carbs. Great video.
That's a neat trick! I love learning about the tricks and remedies of the old timers..... I can't believe how many people have posted such negative comments on this video, you guys do know that you don't have to watch this video....you can stop watching at any time. No, the RU-vid Police will not come to get you in your sleep for stopping the video. For what it's worth, I like your video....i always enjoy seeing the tips/tricks of the old timers. Have a great day and God bless you sir!
I'm a kid from the 50's, done mechanic's from weedwackers to auto, diesel and marine. Soak the carb in white vinegar, rinse, forced air dry. Never had a problem with the rubber.
This brings back memories of me and my Army buddies using lemon juice to clean the breach block on the 105mm Howitzers back in Vietnam in 1967 Fifty one years ago
A before and after pix would be nice. This will work but so will pinesol and dawn liquid detergent. You may still need to clean out the jets with a thin piece is copper wire. Just take a strand from electrical wire.
caution: the high acidic bath can speed the eating of any rubber parts and seals like diaphragms(that regulate fuel flow) causing leaks and for it to run like crap. its an old timer trick since back then there wasn't much if any rubber parts in a carb.
Lead oxide was the old problem. The new problem is hardened additives that remain stuck to parts when the fuel evaporates naturally. Using hot acids on alloy is not recommended, but if it works go for it.
this works. I dont use lemon juice, just boiling water. remove all rubber and plastic first, soak in boiling water for 15 mins, then dry off with compressed air, works wonders. the heat breaks up all the varnished gas and cleans it out.
this is a very good fix. I tried it and it worked wonderful. I tried carb cleaner but it did not work. After boiling for 35 minutes in lemon juice cranked on first pull. Thanks dude...
Lemon juice is an old trick but for degreasing I use UNDILUTED Pine-Sol (not generic pine oil). Besides letting me clean carbs in my kitchen sink, you can pour it back into the container for a reuse or two. After that I use it to mop floors. I always tear down carbs but NOT all the way unless there's a very compelling reason like throttle shaft wear to do so. Pulling the top, the slide, the bowl, jets and emulsion tubes is easy and if you don't remove emulsion tubes you can't see if they are corroded. If you have a low speed jet that's severely blocked, try holding it with needle nose then cooking it with a cigarette lighter. It won't melt and you can watch the old varnish extrude from the jet like a small turd. Blow that off and finish cleaning.
Yep heating things up work well I really like this video thank you also if you have a motor cycle just lodge that can of kidney beans right next to your exhaust and while you drive it will heat those beans up for your next stop ready to eat.
A trick a guy at a motorcycle shop taught me is if you have a clogged jet remove it and heat it with a torch (The little cigarette lighter torches work well) not to hot then drop it in a cup of water. Works especially well on small jets like idle jets.
(I just blew myself up, was I supposed to take it off the tractor and turn off the gaseline?) I should get out of the burn unit next year. I think you left a step out.
The best way is to disassemble the carb and simmer not boil in water and a good dish soap or degreaser for about 1/2 to 1 hour. You will still need to use a good carb cleaner to spray the jets and tiny minuet ports. Make sure you count how many turns the air mixture screw is. The best way is to count how many 1/2 turns in before the screw bottoms out.
Many years ago I had a kit that ran a car engine on strait Gumout. The car needed to be warmed up first. A plug was provided to plug the gas line The engine had to be given a lot of gas to keep it running and it smoked like hell.. The results were amazing. It was like a new carburetor when the process was done. If someone is handy, maybe they can improvise a similar set up.
I’m looking for the channel where you purchased the Magna elite. I remember you going for a test drive and then deciding to buy it. Has that channel been pulled down?
Please show a before and after of the outside. Need to clean up a set of carbs for a show sled and would love to know if this acid bath cleans. What does that juice do to rubber ie. Seals and orings etc. More info please.
My own method when I have one that seems to have a float tip or jet issue and I feel lazy is to block off the fuel at the tank, run it until the carb is dry, then fill the line (and the carb bowl as you do this) with spray carb cleaner. Stick the line back on but leave the fuel blocked and fire it up. It'll start on the cleaner. Run it through some throttle rolls (it won't like it so be gentle) until it's dry again. Fill the line and bowl again, this time turn the fuel back on, and repeat the above until you can tell its running on gas again. Try it out, see how it does. I'd say I've had about 80% success with this method, not needing to do anything further. Some people will be quick to point out the cleaner could damage an old float or tip. Yes, it could, if they are deteriorated. If it does, then you needed to split it and rebuild it anyway. All you lost was a bit of time and can of cleaner. But I like this idea, even if I were opening one up to fix it, little equipment and motorcycle carbs have incredibly small passages and idle jets that can be difficult to clear. This might do the trick. Thanks!
@@BvanDam No, it's called berrymans carb and choke cleaner spray. It is some tough stuff. I've even cleaned electronic fuel injectors with it. Theres a video on YT about how to do that.
@@BvanDam Brake cleaner has methanol in it. Carb cleaner does not. Big difference. You can clean your hands with carb cleaner. You can clean Artic Silver CPU grease out of a carpet with brake cleaner.. Methanol is toxic.
Just put some lemon juice in your kettle and boil it, it will be without scaling and shining like a new one. It works perfect. Also pour boiling water and lemon juice in your car radiator if it's blocked and see what comes out.
heat really helps big time, look at the yamaha carb soak do the same thing, it will bring back the worst/ old carbs. give it a try. it came from the wrecking yard trick from when I was a kid in the 80s.
Yea but this new fuel really does some damage, damn ethanol. seems like the old junk I’d revive back in the 80s took to carb cleaning so much better, and some of em sat for up to 10yrs! Those were the days, haha.. I had a job with an older kid who drove and had a lawnmowing business. I never made any money because I’d always find some clapped out motorcycle or something behind a customers house and have to buy it so I know the carb cleaning ritual well my friend. Cheers and thanks for a great memory.
Boiling it makes no difference. I suppose the heat may help dissolve grease. Still buy a can of gumout or similar, empty the bowl, blow out the main, pull the mixture screw and blow it out. Reassemble the barb hook up the linkage and pull the ripcord. Save your money for the lemon juice. You will need the gumout anyway. Also, when you store your gas powered machines for the winter or summer, top the gas tank off as far as possible and screw the cap down tight. Never empty the tank. Gas forms deposits only in the presence of oxygen. Gas will deteriorate but won't gum up unless it is exposed to air. Trust me on this.
You can also slosh your tank's interior with "pure" gasoline mixed (20:1) with good two-stroke oil. Maybe about two cup's worth. This way you don't waste so much gasoline. Repeat the sloshing about once a month during winter.
@@petewiltfang on second thought, if it is a pipe for other than tobacco, I would definitely try to clean as much of the gummed up residue and reuse it. It works very well the second smoke.
Vinegar is good too .Especially for rusted and seized parts .It really eats rust and corrosion....Great for unseizing pistons in an engine that's been lying for years too....
soak it in pine-sol overnight and no need in heating it. i have cleaned several carb racks from motorcycles this way and it does not harm the rubber gaskets or seals.
I'm rebuilding a Holley carb right now, trying the pine sol method, soaking it for a couple days till my parts come in the mail. It's supposed to be almost as good as chem-dip. Then I am getting it powdercoated.
Little known fixes from old school gurus such as this lemon juice trick really are handy at times, just like the molasses/water 1:9 ratio mixture for rust removal. Restores most metal pieces to nearly new finish in a few short days. Unbelievable results!
We would pour about a half cup of Marvel Mystery Oil down the cars carb while it was running. The car would want to stall so poured slowly. We shut off the car after the MMO was all gone and let the car sit an hour. Start the car up and it would smoke like hell. We would get the middle finger from people behind us but the car ran great. Some guys would spray a bit of water down the carb.
i'm sure it works great on full metal carbs, but i wouldnt try it with my "vacuum assisted" carbs... unless i'd remove the vacuum bladder. i think ultrasonic bath, or vinegar bath would also work. personaly, wen i was a kid, i never even took carbs apart at all. i'd just clean the filter, the jet and made sure it all moved freely. but then a slide carb is a bit different then a butterfly valve carb. whatever works for you is good :) a good working carb dont need to be clean on the outside ;) i'd rather have a reliable rustbucket then something that lets you down all the time that shines in the sun XD
For the guys that have done this before... Do you strip the carb components first... all the way down? (I assume any plastic floats and electrics are removed 🙂) Does the heat of boiling cause any warping concerns? What is the water to Lemon juice, Vinegar or Oxy Clean ratio? (I assume it's different for each? Thanks.
@@theemeraldfox7779 it absolutely will not work the way he is doing it. There is no way for liquid to enter the interior of the carb. It needs to be disassembled first. The acid in the lemon juice may work to remove a lot of the grease but boiling it in hot soapy water dose wonders. You still need to use a good carb cleaner to spray the jets and tiny tiny ports. Using an ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to clean your carb. The microscopic bubbles cleans places that not even carb cleaner van reach
You can buy a really cheap ultra sonic cleaner on ebay that will fit one carb for the price of a bottle of lemon juice. I found a brand new one being chucked. Add a little purple power and it cleans out a gummed up carb fast without any damage.
i got one on sale at Harbor Freight. It works fantastic on small engine carburetors! I put a splash of Simple Green in it because it is not a strong chemical and then I can pour the solution outside when it is done cleaning. It is amazing all the junk inside those tiny holes.
There are many types of this " purple power " The one I have used so far has caused the paint to peel off a truck. I used it on a lawn mower carb. turned it into a charcoal rock, totally destroyed it.
I work on small engines all the time. I seldom have to actually replace a carb, but when I do, it is the ones from Honda, Kohler, or Kawasaki that have certain ports really tiny and can't get a wire to them. I will see if I can resurrect a couple I have kept around.
How did that go? I have keihin from an rm85, cleaned it 2 times, soaked in gas once.. still running shitty. Its got a very hard to reach(impossible) angle where the gas enters the bowl
@@davidoberlin4186 it probably needs to be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. The microscopic bubbles reach the tiniest ports. I had a weed eater that ran shitty after cleaning the carb 4 or 5 times. I finally took it to our local lawn mower shop and paid them $28 to soak it in their ultrasonic cleaner. Put the carb back on and it ran like a champ. I had my husband buy me an ultrasonic cleaner for Christmas. Best gift ever. A-DAY IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY ONE
@@barrygrant2907 80K and my parents got a new one. Everyone on our block. The Dodge guy and the Saab guy were always working on theirs...lol. The Plymouth guy up the street with his Glass Pack, was my HS alarm clock.
Can't beat an ultrasonic cleaner. I had my husband buy me the 30 liter one for Christmas. I absolutely love it. It works great for ATV carbs, but I love the size for our full size carbs.
A few drops of 14 karat gold testing acid in the Jets and also the low speed jet and emulsion tubes cleans it without damage. To me it's much easier than boiling it.
its just as easy to take it apart, probably take less time if you use carb cleaner.. also, its not rebuilding its cleaning. those little carbs don't have anything in them to re build. the air emulsion holes are probably clogged. all of the old timers I have ever talked to use a bread bag tie to poke through them, but those are getting hard to find..... oh crap!! I just realized I am an old timer!!
There is no way to get a proper cleaning unless you take it apart. You still need to use a good carb cleaner to spray the jets and tiny ports inside the body of the carb
