Wow! I am really happy to hear how amazing Surefire’s customer service is! Thank you for sharing! This just made up my mind as to who to buy! Now that I know Surefire will backup their products like this, I’m ready to buy! Thanks! I’m so happy you were able to get your damaged products replaced! 😊
Im glad they replaced your barrel. I always get a tap and die that matches the thread pitch of the barrel in case i need to clean up the threads. Things dont always leave the factory how they should be
Watched this with my 5yo son. As a former mechanical engineer I made it to the part of the video where you said you degreased the threads and i leaned over and said, "I'll bet you cleaning out the dishwasher that the threads galled after he got it on a couple turns." He's grumbling while unloading the dishwasher right now. Fwiw we used to spec all stainless threaded joints, or stainless to stainless fasteners be lubricated with loctite 567 or equivalent. Even just stainless threaded rod with a stainless nut got the the pipe sealant. Oil works 95% of the time but the 567 always worked.
You are definitely correct. I didn't know that at the time and was following the directions on Surefire's video. I definitely know now, and hopefully, this video saves someone else from having the same problem.
@@shofardefense I agree it's probably not common knowledge outside of engineering and some technical trades. I appreciate the video trying to save others the trouble you went through.
Wow brother! Crazy experience, glad it worked out for you. By the way, I got my Proof setup figured out. Action screws were out of spec and now it shoots lights out! I will say the Proof is very picky when it comes to bullets. Shoots Sierra 168 bthp match 0.5 MOA consistently. Everything else shoots 1 MOA or greater.
I had the SAME exact experience with a brand new Surefire SOCOM MB and new Proof carbon barrel. Same issue, not tools just hand tight. I had two identical MBs. Confirmed the other installed no problem on another Proof barrel. Short story was SF denied any liability and after arguing, they eventually agreed to replace the MB but stated the device was “in spec”. Not the first negative CS experience with SF and looking at the threads on the defective MB, it was clear there were some burs that were not removed before coating.
Class 1-3 are clearance threads. They will all work with each other, and they can be mixed in use. Class 1A, and 2A have allowance for fit on the A(external) thread. Class 3A does not have an allowance, so if an internal thread (class B) tolerance is at the basic pitch diameter and a class 3A is at the basic pitch diameter, this will be "line to line" and you will have a greater chance of galling the threads. Best practice is to clean, then use a threadlocker and assemble, before assembly if you're going to test fit, use anti-seize especially if one or the other threads is SS. Nitride or phosphate will resistant galling.
@@shofardefense The only time you get an interference fit is when 3A and 3B thread forms are mating. That situation is where you get a machined fitment with virtually zero 'slop'. The 1A and 2A thread forms are clearanced to a greater degree with 1A being a very loose fit and as as such, you will notice slop when installing mating parts in either 1A or 2A. There was something amiss in your situation as 2B on the SF Warcomp should have readily installed without galling.
Fine threads are more prone to galling. Stainless is more prone to gall. Lubrication is needed to help prevent galling. Don't feel bad. This is not common knowledge. I know because I'm a millwright /machinist for 20 years. And to be honest I have never heard of class 2 or 3 threads. I guess I learned something today. The threads on my proof barrel are extremely precise. The machining is on par or better than high pressure swedge lock fittings. No experience with surefire but I will soon.
Just take the messed up threads down and clean them up with a file. Then use the correct thread pitch and screw on the appropriate one after lubing it of course. It can be saved.
Same. Exact. Thing. With my 18“ neither surefire or proof seemed surprised. I sent both the barrel and brake out to surefire next day. How long did it take for the replacement barrel?
It took about 2 months for them to determine they were going to replace the barrel. However, it took about 2 more months to get it because proof was out of my barrel at the time. Let me know how it goes for you.
no idea if you've asked them again, but I think it would be because they are in the same military support/discount group where they are working together.
@@shofardefense they’re replacing both but unfortunately I still have to send the new barrel out to get modified for my lmt upper. They didn’t say it was because of the thread class though which was odd. Said it was probably an end run brake. I had that brake on my a rainer arm’s barrel that sucked so I sent it back.
I’m guessing proof research does stainless barrels? If so you need to put never seize of the threads…I’m a metal fabricator and stainless galls very fast
They are stainless. I agree. I think the problem is that rockset won't set with never seize on, so they instruct people to clean and degrease it first. The trick, in my opinion, is using never seize to put it on several times to season the threads and then removing that to put on the rockset.
If barrek threads come off just from tightening a muzzle device on then its a garabge barrel no mstter the price and hype. Ive put on a million different muzzle devices and brakes and all types of everything and have never had this happening. The barrel threads had to be off. Yes school of american rifle explains the importance of chekcing whay type of threads they are
There is ONLY one way any Surefire muzzle devise goes on. Dimple down! It’s a suppressor adaptor and blast diffuser adaptor. Only one way to put it on. The locking lugs must be at the bottom 6pm
Could have saved yourself a lot of pain by simply applying some kroil oil and let it seep into the threads apply a little bit of heat to the break that will help pull the oil into the threads and it would have turned right off never try to turn a break off that you turned on to a thread dry if it seizes up without trying this technique first might save you ruining the threads
I hear what you're saying, but I'm not sure it would have helped. It was seized because on a molecular level the two surfaces had literally welded together.
