I agree with you 100% on Ballistol. I started using it on all my firearms and it works great inside and out. It even works for leather and non harmful to wood. Great stuff.
Ballistol is a wonderful product, I use it on my guns, both the steel and the wood, but also on my hunting boots. It smells a little bit weird but not too bad. I can strongly recommend it.
Yup, smells like dirty crotches and old fish but it cleans up pretty easy and is super safe, (at least the squirt bottles and the oil jugs, not too sure about the pressurized cans).
Hi again, thought you guys maybe interested in a little tale from the UK,in my younger years I used to spend early evening in a famous old pub in the Birmingham gun quarter ,named the Three gun barrels where I used to glean as much knowledge as possible off 4/5 Highly skilled gunmakers (For as long as they would put up with me) who also relaxed there after a long hard day.One question I shall always remember asking is ,what was the most common bane of their service and repair side of work , they all gave virtually same answer,no1 ,owners butchering with carpenter /mechanics screwdrivers no 2 ,excessive oiling resulting in wood saturation .The best advice they gave me, was guns work and operate better run virtually dry . They also said on break action shotguns ,use grease only on the crosspin and breach hook .This advice has never let me down in 50yrs. Regards from an old Limey b from across the pond.
More wise words from the Sage - thank you! I also have seen more ruined bores from unnecessary cleaning and scrubbing - my goodness. They were 100% on far too much oiling. Also - takeing guns apart and then putting them together : for no reason, over and over. Or a variation - take them apart and not be able to put them back together so take to that gun collector guy (yours truly) Ah well, its all good. Thanks for sharing the wisdom.
I was told by my step father to store guns barrel down for 9 months and barrel up for 3 months. Basically during hunting season barrel up and long storage barrel down. Also clean before long storage otherwise wipe it down with a rag you wiped your hands on when working on the car, (very little motor oil on it). Not perfect advice but if followed you guns will definitely last you lifetime and possibly you children’s as well.
Gerald Swain: The oil in the head of the stock is a huge problem with guns/rifles that have come back from places like India, the head of the stock turns soft and pappy, not good on a 577NE, this is the reason guns/rifles should be stored muzzle down, essential in hot climates !
I know, Hoppes No. 9 was the favorite perfume of my youth. I even used it instead of aftershave lotion. The girls loved it. Well, maybe not all of them.
Back when I bought my first gun I looked around the internet for what to clean my gun with. Settled on Ballistol because that is what Hickok45 uses. Nice to see some confirmation. It is some good stinky stuff!
Great video! Two mentions here: 1). Ballistol is great on everything! It will take care of your barrel if shooting corrosive ammo. It’s also a great antiseptic if you may cut yourself. Spray some on your boo boo & all good. *** I don’t recommend putting Ballistol on Nickel Guns ( can harm finish!). 2). Renaissance Wax is crazy great- they use it at museums! Be sure to put it on THIN! Buff it with lint free cloth (I prefer old white T shirts). It protects metals wonderfully & restores wood and other products great. It’s expensive (about $60 for amount shown in video), but it WILL last you a lifetime and it is well worth the $ for all it does. ***remember.... put it on THIN!
Amen to applying a VERY thin coat. A while ago a revolver I purchased had been slathered with wax - probably RenWax but possibly not. I forget what I used to remove it all but it had to go! And then I applied a very thin coat…
I have been using Renaissance for two years now. Makes a worn stock look new again. It is great for cleaning up the metal as well. Great video as always.
I agree wholeheartedly with your recommendation for Ballistol. I actually started using it in the last few years even though it's been around for over a century. Maybe one likes the smell, maybe not. I don't particularly like the smell. But it's hard to argue with what the product does. I give my rifles a wipe down. It appears most of the carrier dries and I'm left with a very nice protective coating on the metal that seems to last, well, forever. I don't worry about some getting a little on the wood or a leather sling. And it almost seems poetic to use Ballistol on my Swedish Mauser. The other product I swear by is Hoppes # 9 - which if they made into a cologne, I would wear. That and Ballistol and a few rags pretty much covers 99% of what I need to clean my firearms. I also agree with your comments on over cleaning. I used to think it was important to get every trace of copper out of a bore. Now after a day at the range, I'll make a couple of passes with a copper brush and a few patches soaked in Hoppes, dry the bore, and then run a patch of Ballistol and that's pretty much it. It's rare that I use J-B or a similar product. It took a long time to conclude that a bore doesn't have to be spotless to spin a bullet into a tight group. Thanks for the channel. I just discovered it and I've been binge watching it. Nice to have a channel without loud music, black rifles and some guy in a skull t-shirt.
I do love those smells. It is funny how powerfully smells can turn back time, and bring memories back as if they happened yesterday. It was funny to hear you talk about the old 760 Game Master. My grandfathers 760 still looks pretty good.
Its always a pleasure listening and watching your videos I'm an old fart and been around guns most of my Life but your videos are like a university of rifles ,and every of your videos I learn something new , God bless you thank you for your time .
Such kind words Joe - thank you! I wish you, your family, and friends, a happy, safe and peaceful Christmas and holiday season and all the best for 2019. God Bless - Mike
Your videos are so great. So full of information the younger generations will miss out on, simply because they don’t know its importance. Thank you for all you do.
Ballistol has a web site where you can buy it. It comes in small and medium areosols, also comes in gallon cans, and I think pint round cans. Its a good cleaner & lube.
IMHO the Renaissance Wax is the king. I use it since more than 20 years for my firearms, daggers and swords (both metal, wood and even ivory parts and leather). Results are really great.
Great video! Everything you do is unique. Even this mundane topic is fascinating when you present it. Those old containers were gorgeous! Sincere thanks!
Ballistol is also great for treating insect bites and post-gardening itches. Rangoon oil, last I heard, was still available from the people who make Parker Hale cleaning products and accessories.
I am a fairly new subscriber, but I am really enjoying your videos. You’re very humble and knowledgeable, without all of the showiness that’s typical to gun channels as of late. I especially enjoy that you discuss older and lesser known firearms as well. Keep up the good work, thank you.
Thanks James - your supporting words are much appreciated. As you know, RU-vid has removed financial compensation from the equation so it's just gun people from around the world sharing knowledge and ideas - a great thing on its own.
I second this. Been using it on my knife collection for a few years. Also used it on the wood stocks of my hunting rifles (after properly treated with wood oils).
For Many years I worked in manufacturing and rebuild of Ordnance. what we used as a preservative for stored parts was plain mineral oil atomized from a spray bottle. it works really well and stands up over time, I was always surprised when I would open a box filled with parts that had been sitting for many years, still looking like they were put in there yesterday. It's cheap and available at any drug store or pharmacy department. I wouldn't use it on wood, however it works excellent on metal parts. there is nothing wrong with the products you showed here and you stand by, (Don't get the wrong idea). Peace - Dave
Mike, I ordered Rangoon oil from Westley Richards and I couldn’t believe how quickly it arrived to me from London to podunk Montana. :) Until I learned from you I had never heard of it. Great stuff! I get Balistol from either Cabela’s or Scheels when I’m in Billings, which isn’t often but I always buy plenty. I’m it can be bought on-line but I like to browse in gun stores anyhow but if I ran out I would order on- line. Live your videos.
Glad you have Rangoon Oil - one of my friends in Africa said the smell alone rejuvenates both man and gun. I find that a drop or two in the right places on just about any bolt makes things run smoother. With the Balistol : you're set. : )
I've had great results using Weapon's Shield solvent and CLP. I wanted a non corrosive alternative to ammonia based cleaners to remove copper fouling. I let the Weapon's Shield solvent soak overnight and everything comes out, leaving the bare clean metal. It is the only product I've tried that actually does that. Every other product I've tried (and I've used many) always leave some fouling behind.
I’ve used Howard’s Feed & Wax on fine walnut stocks and furniture for years. I love it and if you use it once on walnut you’ll never use anything else. It’s available online.
i remember using powdered graphite on some of my guns years ago and it worked ok but not down the bore also conservators wax for tools on the metal and it works great on the metal and the wood work but it is pricy but very good as for touch up and complete blue jobs on guns other then rust blue i have used blue wonder gun blue and it works very well and lasts and does not wipe off
Thanks again for sharing. Every time I have a problem I can find practical solutions from your videos. I bought a large bottle of Ballistol for cleaning and lubricating rifles and now have learned that it can be used for wood stock. that is really good!
Good video. Well done. Many people who have little to no experience in the field in question have a plethora of questions regarding these matters. I always try to remind myself that there are no dumb questions when a person is truly querrying in some effort to expand their own working knowledge. In my own humble opinion...for the most part, when it comes to mechanized small arms, firearms and air powered weapons alike... if it was made in the U.S.A., the U.K., Germany, or Austria, its generally a fine product, generally. I also have some Czech & Russian made pieces that, while generally not as aesthetically pleasing, and perhaps often not as ergonomic as they could be, are very durable and often capable of great accuracy, the latter usually being attributed more toward the Cz stuff than the Russian pieces. Again, wellade and helpful video Sir.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I loved the image of entering the fine London gun shop and smelling the oil before being handed some priceless rifle.
Thank you for the recommendations and I will be getting Ballistol the next time I see it in a gun store. I am particulary excited about trying Renaissance Wax because I have been wanting to apply wax to the stocks of my firearms, but I wanted to wait to see what you recommended. The other British products you mentioned I will try when I have the opportunity and it sounds to me like they add a nice touch of ambiance to a gun room. Also, I just want to say that I agree with your thoughts on the extreme cleaning regimes that result in damaged bores. Generally, if I am cleaning a firearm, I just use Hoppe's gun oil and No. 9 solvent. It isn't anything fancy and I avoid the copper solvents that have come into vogue in recent years (at least some of them if used improperly will damage a barrel and I think that they are a part of an over cleaning trend in the gun community). I also eschew whatever is the latest cleaning stuff being pushed by the gun magazines as I lean on the conservative side when it comes to firearm care. Basically, I am of the philosophy that less is generally more when it comes to maintaining guns and that people figured out how to do it well decades ago. What I do after shooting or handling firearms is that I just wipe them down with a silicon cloth and make sure to put them away at room temperature if they were used in cold weather. This works for me, but as I live in the mountain west I don't have to deal with salt air or humidity. Anyways, I wish you the best of luck on your Whitetail deer hunt.
Great video! Been using Rangoon oil for many years and have never had any problems with rust. Agree with you about the scent! Together with linseed oil for the rifle stocks it smells wonderfull in the gun cabinet.
@@UnitedStatesOfGuns Yes, the smell is like traveling back 100 years in time, hard to explain. I believe so too. You can remember smells from childhood.
Thanks again for a very informative video. I would like to inform you of another fine Howard product that I've used for years. Pick up Howard's "Restore A Finish" liquid in a pint can. Comes in Dark Walnut, Light Walnut and a few others. This is the best thing for initially bringing back to life the wood on a tired and dull finish. Works great on the scuffed and scratched finish on used guns as well. How to apply. Get yourself a used cat food can or tuna can and 0000 Steel Wool. Dip the steel wool in the liquid and moderately scrub the liquid into the wood. It is runny but does not harm the metal. The scrubbing actually loosens and removes all the dirt, grime and crud in the pores of the wood. Do the entire stock in one application and let sit for maybe 5 minutes. Then wipe off the excess with balled up TP or paper towels. Then lightly buff with your favorite wood wax spray or paste. I use those soft brown cotton garden gloves to buff the wood. You will be amazed with the results. I was introduced to this product by a high end antique dealer. You can pick it up at Home Depot (Not found at Lowes) or any antique store. I apply it to all my guns 1-2 a year or when I return from a weeks worth of hunting and clean up my rifle. Results are "Show Room Perfection".
I too have a small museum of antiques of various kinds. What I have found is that a thing is either animal, vegetable or mineral and it's best imho to treat a thing with a like product. For instance wood is vegetable. It gets treated with some kind of tree oil. Old military stocks do well with a light scrubbing with a used green scrubby pad dipped in boiled linseed oil or tung oil. If the wood is very dry I might add in some lemon oil. Let the stock soak up all it wants then wipe it down with paper towels then in a week or so put a coat of carnauba wax over it. You could argue that beeswax is vegetable too since bees make it in their bodies from plant pollens. As you say, beeswax blended with a tree or nut oil is very good for wood. I have always liked the smell of Hoppes #9. The old formula. I often buy old cleaning kits just to get some more of it. The real prize in the kits is finding a little metal tube of Gunslick grease. A tiny dab on the trigger and sear engagement points does wonders for a trigger pull. Thank you for making these videos I really enjoy them. John Davis jax fl
It's always a pleasure to watch your videos. I learn bits and pieces even from the ones that are not very relevant for my shooting activity. You certainly have a knack for conveying information in an appealing way. Thank you for taking the time for the work you do.
I started using WD-40 when I was younger because of how available and recognizable it is. But I heard commercial gun oils have hiring melting points. So WD-40 gets hot and burns off and leaves a sticky residue behind. Then I started using Rem Oil. But now I use Ballistol to clean and lubricate. I also use a mixture of beaswax, tallow, and Crisco to lubricate the chambers on my blackpowder revolver. Apparently petroleum based oils mix with blackpowder fowling to create gunk. Also a lot of oils repel water but I hear ballistol doesn’t. Since you need hot water to clean blackpowder fowling, ballistol mixes with the water to clean everything
Ballistols main ingredient is mineral oil. It has a very mild slow working but effective solvent added, great for wood, steel, veg tanned leather, Everything but nickel plating or anything plated because it acts as a CLP. It will over time penetrate into tiny cracks and dissolve the copper used to bond the nickel or chrome to a surface. It should be allowed to breathe and never just slathered on and left in long term storage. It is great stuff. RenWax is made of micro crystalline wax, that is itself made from mineral oil, thinned with additional mineral oil and "white spirit" is added as a drying agent. RenWax should be applied very sparingly, in thin coats as it dries REALLY hard and can be difficult to remove if put on too thick and then allowed to cure....Remove all loose dirt and such that you can and ALL moisture because any water trapped between RenWax and a surface can cause damage to a finish. I like both products and use them for various applications. EEZOX is a polymerizing CLP that I have been using on all my stainless and carbon steels for long term storage. It is a synthetic product, and cannot be mixed with petroleum because the products will "fight each other", but it is an excellent rust and corrosion prevention product when properly applied. WD40 is a water displacement compound, meant for driving water off steel surfaces. It will " gum up" if any sludge or dirt is left on an item. If I use WD40 I clean the "nasty " off a tool with it, get it all off, then completely remove WD40, with acetone from the steel and apply a chosen CLP etc.
Regarding beeswax, I mean in a pinch or as a regular check and maintain product they can work great, but natural products are known to produce acids over time which is why RenWax was developed. I will try some of that BZZZZZ product for in field outdoor applications because of simplicity of use. In addition any wax product or petroleum jelly can be put on a cotton ball and used as emergency tinder to start a fire when camping, hunting etc. I absolutely agree with your assertion on bore brushes and too much scrubbing. I worked in a gun shop under a gunsmith for 5 years, and have been a knife collector since age 10
I bought Ballistol to use on my Mosin Nagant, great cleaning product and since I shoot surplus ammunition that uses corrosive primers Ballistol's formulation neutralizes the corrosive mess left behind from firing. Great and informative video!
I am shooter from india and I can bet ballistol is the best.. I use it on my competition rifles.. M1 garand, blaser, browning, cz and it's so awesom... there is a whole weapon maintenance kit from ballistol that includes everything 👍 gun stock oil, cold blue, de greaser , lubricant 👍👍
Yes petroleum based oils were not really available until the 20th century. Previously, vegetable oils were used on guns as well as whale oil. Sperm whale oil was especially cherished and is thin in viscosity. This would be used for watches and for delicate target actions with set triggers.
Ballistol is great ,i use is for about 15 years , i by a 1liter can ,and put in on a handspray , and i also blend a littel can Ballistol with Alcana rot (Alkánna tinctória) wich giv a nice redbrown color to the oil i use on the stock one my nice old Husqvarna rifles ( 1600 in .270winch. 1600 in 9,3x62 (2stk) and 1651 in .358 Norma Magnum) Tank you for great videos
I love G96 and it smells so good you can put a little on for a date lol. That little silver container has fantastic workmanship from an era when they sold you that container and expected you to repack it with new grease when empty and use it for decades. It looks to me that the brush should thread out of the main large lid for applying small dabs of grease where you need it then thread it back in to seal it back up.
Speaking of pleasant scents, Hoppe's No. 9 powder solvent smells like banana oil, which it probably is, but WD-40 is good for keeping moisture off metal. Water displacement, but not in an action. Will gum them up if left on for too long. It is not a lubricant. A veteran form WW-ll, Master Sgt. told me to use WD on stored guns for anti-rust protection. Thanks for the Video.
I just learned about this Ballistol a month ago, and it's great to see you say it's the best stuff to use. And I just found 4 cans in a great deal 2 days ago. So I got them. Thank you for your great videos and sharing all your knowledge. I learn so much from you !
I have most everything shown except the legacy proprietary oil. My comment is that everytime I use Ballistol, it makes me cough, a lot. It has some ingredient that I feel is pretty repulsive to inhale. It may be great but I can't use it. Great vid. Thank you sir. //ji
Thank you for this presentation on rifle care products. I’m new to rifles while I have collected revolvers and semi-auto handguns. For me, Hoppe’s No. 9 solvent and oil has worked well over the years, with all my S&W revolvers, Beretta and Glock semi-automatics. But I am open to your years of experience with rifles and value your suggestions. Ballistoll is a product I have used extensively with my other hobby, restoration of old woodworking hand tools, but ironically never used on my firearms. I’ve always been a little leery of a cleaning solvent and lubricant in the same formulation as it seems a little counterintuitive as cleaning and lubrication are two separate steps so for my firearms, I stuck with just Hoppe’s gun cleaner and separate Hoppe’s oil for lubrication. Maybe I need to try your recommendation on my firearms. I have seen people at the range with their guns so lubricated that they are dripping with oil and look like the chassis of an old tractor. A little goes a long way to prevent rust on hardened steel parts. Anyway, just my thoughts but I really do enjoy your video content.
There is one of those teflon ones I really like a lot. I believe it's g something, and it's amazing. Spray on, wipe off if you can, and almost no residue, nothing. Guns were rusting, and I've had some sitting for a couple years, no problem. They have ballistoil at Canadian tire, a big chain of general hardware, car, and home store. I'll pick some up.
Hi Jim - I also like using Ballistol for cooling things that I've silver soldered. Water is okay but gets in everything and rusts. Ballistol must have a high ignition point - I've never had it ignite. Best of health to you Jim.
USOG Well I love my G96 gun treatment, works amazing and smells good, but if this Ballistol is non toxic, and works well, I'm all in. It's not that hard to find here, so I'll get some tomorrow. Stay safe buddy!
It makes sense to me , if one were to go over to England and walk the famous street where you will find H&H , Rigby and other famous gun makers you will find what you need to maintain your fine built firearm , they build them and they know how to take care of them... When i was young starting out i followed my father who was a stickler on keeping his firearms in top shape , clean and oiled and a master at touching up the stock where it needed it after a season in the forest hunting ... Brownell's was one source he ordered products from and others he bought local .. Now local where i live there is over half an isle of products to keep your firearm working like new ..Beeswax is good to have and works well , a stock maker told me about that one time and a good quality car wax because of the oil in the wax.. Bore cleaners have come and gone over the years and new ones have arrived .. Tipton has a bore cleaner i like really well ( i have always liked their carbon fiber ramrods ) so why not , i ordered a jar of it and discovered it works very well ..Now Liquid Wrench i have not used on any firearm , WD-40 is rare for me to use .. Bore Scrubber by Birchwood Casey i got into around 6 years ago which came recommended by a shooting friend so after 56 years i'm still learning .. Great video ..
"...the workmanship in this (oil) container is better than in some modern rifles..." Ouch. But true. Ballistol is a great product! I shoot a lot of cast bullets and depend on Ballistol for cleaning. It's easy to order online from Amazon, Ebay and even Walmart.
I wipe my guns down with Rem-Oil wipes as soon as I get home from hunting or shooting trap. I immediately take them out out the case and let them get to room temperature. I have seen a lot of friends guns develop surface rust because of condensation that forms in the case due to the change in temperature from coming in from the cold.
You're a lucky man Svern - not easy to find and no one would believe how accurate these rifles are. Glad you have one. I'll be making another video on this rifle. All the best.
Agree completely regarding Ballistol. The uses seem limitless whether with firearms, or tools, pumps, locks, hinges... et al. Great stuff to have on hand. Thank you for the insight on the British products. I will investigate further.
I didnt realize how dirty my rifle bores were until I bough a $600 bore scope. The culprit is copper. Very hard to remove. Copper must be removed as rust will occur between the copper and the steel. Some bores put down copper more than others--especially if there is rough machining or previous corrosion. You can tell if you have copper if you put down a patch of Shooters Choice or Hoppes #9 and let it sit for a little while. Go back in with a dry patch, and if you see green, you have copper. JB Bore cleaning compound is excellent and gentle and will remove copper. More aggressive chemical, electrochemical, and abrasive techniques are out there as well.
I can't agree more about the Ballistol. It is the greatest clp you can get, unfortunately I just ran out. Most of the other ones you can still get online.
Hello from Germany. You can take Ballistol for getting a tick out of your dog, put a little bit ballistol on the tick and wait till it goes by itself. I use it also for tick protektion for me, I put it on my legs (skin) and it works very well, and moskitos do also not like the smell. Thanks for your tips, I ordered the Briwax right now.
It's a shame that some of these old oils and lubricants are off the market these days. I wonder if they're available in England or elsewhere in Europe as not everything gets imported due profit ratios. I enjoyed the video and would pay the markup to get better methods of preserving my firearms. And yes, I'd agree that I've seen more guns damaged by over cleaning and excessive oiling than by the opposite. Oil is the best dust magnet known to mankind and it's also a great way to kill a beautiful wood stock. Take care!
Grandfather used compressed air kerosene, motor oil and Vaseline. That is it. That is what I use and no issues. I dont use grease because the cold weather here turns grease into concrete.
Hi James - fantastic - I received a few letters that 20W 50 is the way to go; apparently there are at least a few people out there that use only that for generations.
I'm a little bit surprised to not see Hoppes #9 (known in my house as Gun Owner's Cologne); but I appreciate the lead on Ballistol. Just ordered some from Amazon a short while ago.
Super video! I had not heard of any of the European products you mentioned. I’ve been to London a few times but I was always on my way to someplace else. Next time I go there it’ll be for fun and I’ll definitely go to visit Holland & Holland!
Windex is good to use after using corrosive ammo, the ammonia is suppose to neutralize the salts that make it corrosive. Not supposed to be good to store anything with ammonia in it near ammunition though. Something about it messes it up. I guess its the vapors. Its like it eats the brass and makes it brittle, might do other stuff too.
Would really appreciate your thoughts on the "almond stick" for use on badly maintained wood stocks. Thanks again for your fantastic knowledge and experience.
Renaissance wax crystals was actually formulated by laboratory Technicians in the British Museum to protect Artifacts,it is widely used in the jewelry trade too.
I still use wd40 to clean. Liberally with brass brush for bores. Then ETHANOL, then 3in1 . Rem oil is great 4 long term storage. Heard great things about balistall,hops#9, just not as accessible.
I did up an old Arisaka 6.5 Jap. The wood was drenched in about a hundred years of oil and most likely mud, blood and sweat. Soaking it in universal solvent did wonders. Sometimes you need to be cruel to be kind. I have found new 30/40 motor oil to be a good protector from rust too. Why not take advantage of years of oil Co. R&D? On the metal, not the wood of course.
CLP is also very good no rust, it goes on oily but sets waxy dull with time- i beleive it is used by us military. Most museums use wax for most metals.
I had to look that up - thank you. Wax is a great idea for longer storage. I use way on shotgun barrels when hunting saltwater marshes - I block the gap between the barrels and the wood so the water can't get in. Seems to work - for me anyway.
CLP is just an acronym - “Cleaner Lubricant Protectant.” All I’ll say about the issue stuff is that when I needed my M4 and had the choice between spending my own money or using what they issued me, I spent my own dime.
Loving your videos and joined your Patreon account. Renaissance Wax, Briwax and Ballistol are all favorites of mine. Very good in the workshop as well as your gun vault.
You probably know that Briwax comes in a few different colours/types. I have found it to work best when its warm. My 50+ year old 16 gauge hammer Baikal double looks like new.
Ballistol is excellent i ues it everytime i clean a firearm .the only problem is my wife and kids just cant stand the smell as soon as i start spraying it she comes to my gun room complaining lol.also howards is also great i use a wide variety of there products .they have one product in paticular called restore it comes in a few diffrent colors great product.at least i think there howards ill check to see .
Great video, thanks. I'm a fan of Inox and Lanotec spray for general use and Sweet's bore solvent. I have an old tin of Burr's Three-oh here somewhere which is a vintage military style gun oil with that old world smell.
